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06-21-2012, 07:41 PM | #67 | |
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06-21-2012, 07:44 PM | #68 | |
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For those who may wonder how I clean the cross drilled rotors and slots it's simple. A cordless drill with the right size drill bit. Works like a charm when I swap wheels and take a peek at pads and suspension
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11-27-2012, 07:49 AM | #69 |
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Good info here!
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02-23-2013, 02:47 PM | #70 |
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Bumping this up to see if anyone has had any other ideas to get cooling air to the rotors while running the wide (and wider sometimes) front wheels of the 135.
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02-26-2013, 06:43 AM | #71 |
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It would seem that some oil cooler upgrades utilise the brake ducts in the front bumper to help with cooling oil. If this is the case, does that mean we can only cool one aspect and not the other? It would be great if we can effectively cool both oil and brakes in the same setup.
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02-26-2013, 07:00 AM | #72 | |
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02-26-2013, 08:40 AM | #73 |
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Best way to do this is to find a way to route some ducting to the rotors.
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05-04-2013, 03:16 PM | #74 |
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Have any of you run into issues with your suspension rubbing with the F30 heat shields? While installing my brakes today I noticed this. I was pretty sure I heard those shields rubbing but could not find it till I got the car on a lift.
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05-05-2013, 01:04 PM | #75 | |
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I did have an issue on one side where it was rubbing against the rotor, but that was easily fixed by just pulling it back and bending it into shape a little. I think I had bent it a tad while installing it. -m |
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05-05-2013, 02:10 PM | #76 |
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Wow Wade, that is wierd. I didn't have that issue. Other than that, how did they do?
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05-05-2013, 02:59 PM | #77 | |
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I think the rubbing is a from a combination of the control arms and my alignment. I'm not sure if I should be concerned about the rubbing. I guess I could bend them or make a small hole where it's rubbing but I'm not sure thats needed. It's strange I didn't notice when I installed them...I thought I looked.
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05-09-2013, 08:17 PM | #78 | |
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, 3.73 diff, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: //M front arm, M3 rack, e36M lip Wishlist: Coils, n55 mnts, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff "The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is |
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06-12-2013, 06:36 PM | #80 |
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^^ very cool.
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, 3.73 diff, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: //M front arm, M3 rack, e36M lip Wishlist: Coils, n55 mnts, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff "The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is |
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06-12-2013, 08:36 PM | #81 |
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Anyone using these with Stoptechs?
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08-29-2013, 10:28 AM | #82 |
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Garage List E86 Z4 M [10.00]
F15 X5 xDrive35i [9.17] F10 550i (Retired) [9.17] F25 X3 xDrive35i (R ... [9.43] E82 135is (Retired) [9.53] E85 Z4 M (Retired) [9.41] E90 328i xDrive (Re ... [9.25] E86 Z4 3.0si (Retired) [8.93] |
So do the oem dust shields come right off without cutting? I thought on older models they were pressed into the hub so you'd need tin snips to remove them.
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08-31-2013, 12:15 AM | #83 |
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10-10-2013, 10:58 PM | #84 |
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04-20-2014, 08:43 PM | #85 |
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Just completed the right side install (will finish another day--playoff hockey coming on before I'd finish the other side). I was confused on a few parts so I wanted to add my two cents for any others that might be too.
First of all, this is what the final product looks like, before you start reassembling everything. I was never really sure from the OP what section you were supposed to trim and where the new hole needed to go. The red line is approximately the section I cut off. The blue square is the second hole you need to drill. A few notes on the trimming: my tin snips were crap. I bought "aviation" ones at Harbor Freight because they were a bit more robust, but I might have been better off with the cheaper smaller ones, or maybe should have gone to even bigger heavy duty ones. I ended up using a file to help smooth some of the more jagged edges and also create just a bit more space between the shield and the bracket in case there was any vibration/noise. Also, the second hole you drill is right against a ridge. This doesn't allow the washer on the screw to sit flush. I used a light hammer to just flatten that section a smidge and then let the screw/washer do the rest when tightening. The other part I wasn't sure of was the very beginning, because the OP just starts off after removing the rotor. I used this thread to get me to that point: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212459 If you have a wheel hanger pin, you can leave this in for the entire removal/re-install. It was very handy as a handle to keep the rotor from spinning when removing the screw that holds it in place (you can't use the brake because the caliper is off...). Lastly, the only real snag I hit was getting the caliper back on. The pads may not have enough room to fit over the rotor, so I ended up spreading the brake pads with my fingers, and then just fit it back over the rotor starting at the top and then pivoting it into place. Then just bolt the caliper back in place. Anyway, hoping to do the other side in the next few days. A test drive with windows down and no vents or radio going also reassured me that the new shields do not generate any sort of added wind noise that I could hear. Last edited by 02rsxpilot; 04-21-2014 at 12:59 PM.. |
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04-21-2014, 10:53 PM | #86 |
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I did this mod about a year ago, a bit deceived by the pictures I saw that appeared to show that the F30 scoop projected past the inside lip of the wheel. This isn't the case for even the OE 7.5" front wheel.
In any case, here are a few pictures of my installation that may provide some inspiration for others: 1) I marked the new backing plate from the opposite handed original with a transfer punch after first bolting the two together with appropriate spacers to keep things parallel. 2) At the same time the required trim for the caliper was marked. 3) As others have noted the required hole is tight up to a bend radius. I used a Roper Whitney No. 5 punch to make the holes rather than a drill. 4) The backing plate is very soft so I made a simple reforming die out of aluminum to reform the radius to accept a bolt and washer. 5) Here is the plate installed (I was changing wheel bearings at the same time). Note 4th bolt that most others don't use. 6) Using the 4th bolt requires making a suitable length spacer, and the bolt only picks up a half-hole. Regardless, it substantially stabilizes the backing plate. 7) As others have noted, there is some interference with one of the ball joints. 8) Here is the affected area. 9) I bumped this with a ball peen hammer on a shot bag. 10) The conflict is resolved with just a bit of reforming. 11) This is the view of the plate with an OE 7.5 x 18 wheel. 12) A more face-on view shows that the scoop does not project past the inside edge of the wheel. |
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03-18-2015, 01:54 PM | #87 |
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Just did this myself. Didn't look at the latest posts to realize I should reshape the bit of the plate that might touch the ball joint. Will have to look at that later.
If you're doing your brake pads or rotors, you may as well spend the extra 5 minutes to do this. Super easy.
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