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08-08-2023, 02:21 PM | #67 |
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08-08-2023, 04:49 PM | #68 |
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Yeah they're pretty dusty - but I like what I'm getting for stopping power, I can either clean the wheels or the back bumper of the 'blue hair' in the Oldsmobile who comes to a screeching halt for a 'tree rat', I'd rather clean the wheels. ; -)
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08-08-2023, 04:55 PM | #69 |
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Under threshold braking - the rotors are cold; there is a short left lane exit on a highway that runs above 60 mph (posted 55) and when cars are backed up in the left turn lane it shortens the braking zone significantly. I think it was the pads creating gas that was not getting vented and lifts the pad from the rotor surface (flying the pads). It's an odd sensation - you apply the brakes up to the point of locking and there'll be what feels like a 'slip', as if the tire is sliding, but it's the rotor turning faster than previously. A partial pedal lift and redepress takes care of it. I need to fess up though; the indy shop I take the car to didn't like how the front rotors were wearing. And I was <Bob Uecker voice> just a bit too aggressive </Bob Uecker voice> bedding the pads in when they were replaced a few years ago. So that could explain the issue I was seeing (and caused ; -). From the following web page: "Heat spots on brake rotors occur when brakes aren't broken in (bedded) properly and the brake pad deposits on the rotor accumulate and eventually turn into a compound known as cementite. You don't want Cementite on your brake rotors." https://brakeperformance.com/inspect...ake-rotors.php Last edited by atr_hugo; 08-08-2023 at 06:02 PM.. |
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08-08-2023, 08:32 PM | #70 |
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Well I may give them a try on my e82 but I plan to go with more Akebono pads when I do the fronts here soon. I do recall also shitting bricks when I heard the break-in material doing its thing.
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01-20-2024, 07:20 PM | #71 |
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I have had the EBC Red Stuff pads with ECS drilled/slotted two piece front rotors for a few years now, but I also have had a lot of highway speed brake-induced shimmy. No issues when braking from lower speed. I don't know if the rotors have deposits (I don't see any pad imprints on the outer faces of the rotors) or if the rotors are warped (shouldn't be from street only driving and these rotors).
Do I get new BMW two piece rotors? Should I try to have the existing rotors cut or perhaps simply rough sanded? I decided to change and keep using the two piece, drilled and slotted rotors as this was the first BMW that didn't develop shimmy under braking and thought this combination may have been the reason, but the BMW rotors were much more expensive than the ECS (sourced from Stop Tech) two-pieces.
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E9x M3 front & rear suspension arms; BMW Performance brakes upgraded to drilled rotors in rear; BMW performance shifter; BMW Performance Exhaust; Wave Trac LSD with modified 'nannies'; BMW Euro Intake box; BMW Aluminum Strut Tower bar; ECS front and rear sway bars; 3 stage intake with BPC software; BMW style 78, 17 x 8" wheels with Bridgestone RE 980AS 225/45-17 tires; Koni Special Active struts/shocks, E9x M3 RTABs.
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01-20-2024, 09:01 PM | #72 |
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Hmm. Do you feel it in the steering wheel? Is it predictable or random? Is it just a range of speed?
Trying to eliminate the possibility of something in the suspension being loose. Usually the uneven pad deposit thing is worse at low speeds. In my experience anyhow. |
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01-21-2024, 10:11 PM | #73 |
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Big fan of stoptech sport pads. Couldn't remember if I had mentioned this before. They definitely need to be bedded and like a tiny bit of heat in them to really bite but theyre entirely driveable slow and a really nice mix use pad.
I still need to either rebuild my stock pistons or F8x swap.
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01-22-2024, 07:52 AM | #74 |
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01-23-2024, 08:23 AM | #75 | |
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Quote:
Suspension was checked out last fall, and it should still be fine. Per my sig, lots of M3 pieces. I had no issues with the upgraded performance brake kit prior to the replacement of rotors and pads. Might go with different pads next time, and probably change front rotors? Not sure whether the slotted/drilled rotors can be turned, if out of spec for true?
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E9x M3 front & rear suspension arms; BMW Performance brakes upgraded to drilled rotors in rear; BMW performance shifter; BMW Performance Exhaust; Wave Trac LSD with modified 'nannies'; BMW Euro Intake box; BMW Aluminum Strut Tower bar; ECS front and rear sway bars; 3 stage intake with BPC software; BMW style 78, 17 x 8" wheels with Bridgestone RE 980AS 225/45-17 tires; Koni Special Active struts/shocks, E9x M3 RTABs.
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01-26-2024, 03:29 PM | #76 | |
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You can find directions all over the place, they are all different but the gist is similar. Find a safe place, get up to speed, and do some fairly hard stops. Down to 5mph anyhow so that you don't spend anytime with the pad / rotor touching without actual movement. Repeat just up to but not to the point where you feel things begin to fade. Sort of starting over, and being sure it's not an uneven deposit kind of thing going on. |
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01-28-2024, 08:06 PM | #77 |
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I will try this again.
Edit: not too much difference after a brake 'bedding' procedure. I went a bit limited, maybe only 6 aggressive stops from 70 - 30 mph and trying not to engage ABS and not to induce any fade. I may have to replace some components here, unfortunately.
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E9x M3 front & rear suspension arms; BMW Performance brakes upgraded to drilled rotors in rear; BMW performance shifter; BMW Performance Exhaust; Wave Trac LSD with modified 'nannies'; BMW Euro Intake box; BMW Aluminum Strut Tower bar; ECS front and rear sway bars; 3 stage intake with BPC software; BMW style 78, 17 x 8" wheels with Bridgestone RE 980AS 225/45-17 tires; Koni Special Active struts/shocks, E9x M3 RTABs.
Last edited by MAMSport; 02-05-2024 at 10:22 PM.. Reason: update info |
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