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      08-30-2018, 08:22 AM   #8955
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
Just do not polish your fresh paint for at least 6 weeks!
The bumper will be left alone, maybe a coat of wax (soft wax) to protect it a bit.

The body is what i will be polishing, it will be the car's first polish since new (2012) to my knowledge.
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      08-30-2018, 10:50 AM   #8956
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Originally Posted by GoodMoodley View Post
I was not able to find these mats in a 1 series fitment. Any chance you have the part # or link?
This mats are to F30 model, the front mats fits fine, rear mats do not fit perfectly
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      08-30-2018, 11:14 AM   #8957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Veloce View Post
This mats are to F30 model, the front mats fits fine, rear mats do not fit perfectly
Thanks!
These 3D mats look like a nice compromise between OE carpet mats and the brutal yet awesome WeatherTech floor mats
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      08-30-2018, 12:28 PM   #8958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Veloce View Post
This mats are to F30 model, the front mats fits fine, rear mats do not fit perfectly
https://www.amazon.com/3D-MAXpider-C...ts+3d+maxpider
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      08-30-2018, 12:34 PM   #8959
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
yes, that's right , are the same
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      08-30-2018, 12:37 PM   #8960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1and1 View Post
Thanks!
These 3D mats look like a nice compromise between OE carpet mats and the brutal yet awesome WeatherTech floor mats
This are my last floor mats, I like more the new ones
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      08-30-2018, 03:41 PM   #8961
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Quality quad exhaust look for under £60!! Fitted Monday
2 matching tailpipes of Ebay £25 each
1 exhaust clamp £2
1 straight bracket £3
I love the look but couldn't afford the real thing
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Last edited by Jon B; 08-31-2018 at 02:39 AM..
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      08-30-2018, 04:13 PM   #8962
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Found a fairly big parking lot towards the industrial section of the city. Been going there every night after work around 1 am to play with the LSD. I definitely need a lot more practice, I got throttle control down but I need to work on my steering for sure. It's a lot of fun though
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      08-30-2018, 09:03 PM   #8963
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The Bimmerworld TA16s were back on sale including free shipping, so I picked up a spare. (The spare roundel is on order)

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      08-30-2018, 10:26 PM   #8964
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Starting down the wheel spacer path....
Read a bunch, even asked the vendor that I'm purchasing from, and all have the same basic size recommendations for OE 264 wheels & tire sizes, even if slightly lowered: 10mm in the front, 15mm in the rear for a decent flush look.

So I ordered a set of VRSF 10mm (includes lug bolts, free shipping, $79.99, from Jeff @ TGS) to get the ball rolling. What I want to learn is just how much impact to the look 10mm is really going to have.

The thing is, at least by my measurements, 10mm is about right for the rear, and the fronts really need a different wheel offset to be safe- my measurement finds more like 25-28mm is needed for the front to be flush.... How weird is that?!? And by flush I mean still in enough to not need to roll the fenders.

So my plan is to test fit the 10mm on one side and see what they look like, then move them to either the front or rear, which ever looks the best, and order the second pair based on what I learn....
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      08-31-2018, 05:14 AM   #8965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1and1 View Post
Starting down the wheel spacer path....
Read a bunch, even asked the vendor that I'm purchasing from, and all have the same basic size recommendations for OE 264 wheels & tire sizes, even if slightly lowered: 10mm in the front, 15mm in the rear for a decent flush look.

So I ordered a set of VRSF 10mm (includes lug bolts, free shipping, $79.99, from Jeff @ TGS) to get the ball rolling. What I want to learn is just how much impact to the look 10mm is really going to have.

The thing is, at least by my measurements, 10mm is about right for the rear, and the fronts really need a different wheel offset to be safe- my measurement finds more like 25-28mm is needed for the front to be flush.... How weird is that?!? And by flush I mean still in enough to not need to roll the fenders.

So my plan is to test fit the 10mm on one side and see what they look like, then move them to either the front or rear, which ever looks the best, and order the second pair based on what I learn....


I'm on 10mm front and rear. I think it fits perfect.
But I bought the China kit on Amazon. Seems to work so far.
Could do 12mm out back. but I think 15 would be too much, unless you're on 245's.
265's would probably rub on a 12mm. And it really looks like 235's would rub bad up front on a 10mm. My 225's will rub on really big dips, like compressed bumpstop big.


I did 10 F/R because I'm preparing to go 8.5" square. Have everything but tires.
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      08-31-2018, 05:34 AM   #8966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post


I like the look of them. And since he says the rears didn't fit real well. I bought just the fronts,

https://www.amazon.com/3D-MAXpider-C...00DLN9R2K?th=1


I never go in the back anyways. Save me a few bucks.
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      08-31-2018, 06:21 AM   #8967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon B View Post
Quality quad exhaust look for under £60!! Fitted Monday
2 matching tailpipes of Ebay £25 each
1 exhaust clamp £2
1 straight bracket £3
I love the look but couldn't afford the real thing
My personal feelings for the style of tips aside, this is just clamped on? No actual exhaust work?....


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      08-31-2018, 06:42 AM   #8968
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@suprgnat those look great
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      08-31-2018, 08:50 AM   #8969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low135 View Post
My personal feelings for the style of tips aside, this is just clamped on? No actual exhaust work?....
I was thinking the same. And the tips don't seem to fit the cutouts.
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      08-31-2018, 09:30 AM   #8970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1and1 View Post
Starting down the wheel spacer path....
Read a bunch, even asked the vendor that I'm purchasing from, and all have the same basic size recommendations for OE 264 wheels & tire sizes, even if slightly lowered: 10mm in the front, 15mm in the rear for a decent flush look.

So I ordered a set of VRSF 10mm (includes lug bolts, free shipping, $79.99, from Jeff @ TGS) to get the ball rolling. What I want to learn is just how much impact to the look 10mm is really going to have.

The thing is, at least by my measurements, 10mm is about right for the rear, and the fronts really need a different wheel offset to be safe- my measurement finds more like 25-28mm is needed for the front to be flush.... How weird is that?!? And by flush I mean still in enough to not need to roll the fenders.

So my plan is to test fit the 10mm on one side and see what they look like, then move them to either the front or rear, which ever looks the best, and order the second pair based on what I learn....
I was originally running 15mm front/12mm rear. With 255's out back. Was getting pretty noticeable rubbing in the rear. I'm lowered on KW Clubsports. Fenders not rolled.

Switched to 15mm front/10mm rear, very little rubbing now. I'm happy with how it's sitting with that setup.
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      08-31-2018, 10:51 AM   #8971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by WDE82 View Post
You can polish it. Just don't wax it. It takes a while to off-gas. If the paint shop was good, they baked the paint so it's almost completely cured.
Maybe, but I wouldn't. You can not be sure that whatever polish you use won't react badly, and that the paint shop even baked it, no matter what they say.
They should be polishing it before it leaves the shop anyway. Polish is not reactive or a coating. It's a light abrasive.
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      08-31-2018, 02:14 PM   #8972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BASR View Post
I was originally running 15mm front/12mm rear. With 255's out back. Was getting pretty noticeable rubbing in the rear. I'm lowered on KW Clubsports. Fenders not rolled.

Switched to 15mm front/10mm rear, very little rubbing now. I'm happy with how it's sitting with that setup.
I got 12mm spacers F&R. Stock M-Sport, they were fine.
When I moved to Spec-R springs, rears rubbed bad. Removed 'em.
Now that I'm on 225's F and 255's R, fronts are still fine (I do have the Dinan camber plates in there), but the rears would never fly. With springs as low as mine, I don't think I could swing anything wider than 5mm in the rear. Running with none back there, and keeping it that way. Still on stock 7.5F / 8.5R 18" 261's.
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      08-31-2018, 03:18 PM   #8973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1and1 View Post
Starting down the wheel spacer path....
Read a bunch, even asked the vendor that I'm purchasing from, and all have the same basic size recommendations for OE 264 wheels & tire sizes, even if slightly lowered: 10mm in the front, 15mm in the rear for a decent flush look.

So I ordered a set of VRSF 10mm (includes lug bolts, free shipping, $79.99, from Jeff @ TGS) to get the ball rolling. What I want to learn is just how much impact to the look 10mm is really going to have.

The thing is, at least by my measurements, 10mm is about right for the rear, and the fronts really need a different wheel offset to be safe- my measurement finds more like 25-28mm is needed for the front to be flush.... How weird is that?!? And by flush I mean still in enough to not need to roll the fenders.

So my plan is to test fit the 10mm on one side and see what they look like, then move them to either the front or rear, which ever looks the best, and order the second pair based on what I learn....
I have 12 on the front and 15 on the back on my 123d m sport but the backs do catch a little so I'm going to try swapping them to see if 12s are ok
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      08-31-2018, 06:43 PM   #8974
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I've been using the 135 as my DD for about 7 months, primarily as a commuter to my job to and from Santa Monica averaging about 15MPH. It's easy to forget how much fun and how capable this car is.

Today our office was closed (we have great holiday benefits, closed today and Monday). My MIL was babysitting so I had some time to hit Angeles Crest with the silver bullet, my first trip there since May. Good God, this car was built to live in those Canyons.

Spent 180 minutes on Angeles Crest this morning. About 10 of those were spent playing with a Coyote Mustang (vert). The new stangs are very complete cars, we were close to even through the tight stuff, but I had him on braking points and exit speed. He pulled over 10 minutes in to let me pass, he was probably running close to 10/10ths, I was at 7-8/10ths on these garbage run flats. Spent another 2 to 5 of those minutes trailing a new Golf R, that car has insane grip and is very quick. I had trouble keeping up, again running 8/10ths on faded brakes.

I've been up there in an STI swapped WRX, my old first gen Turbo II swapped RX7, my old fully built grip 240sx, my old S2000, my old Miata, and my old Gen 1 MS3 that was FBO on koni yellows and pilot sports. The 1 series is far and away my favorite of those cars up there. It isn't as quick as my 240 was, not as nimble as the s2k and Miata, doesn't have the grip of the MS3, but it is the most balanced of all the cars I've owned. It's essentially very good but not very great at any performance metric in the canyons, AKA it make the fewest compromises of all the sports cars I've owned.

I didn't flash to stage 2 before the run, even though I did get the VRSF DP on the car two weeks ago. I had temperature concerns running the car hard without an upgraded FMIC. Temps were up about 10 degrees after 30 minutes of really hard driving on the uphill, pulled over to let her cool down for five minutes and she didn't complain the rest of the way.

The mid range torque is batsh!t with MHD stage 1 and the VRSF DP/Berk Axle Back. It does feel like it needs another 20whp, mostly in the top end (loses steam up top), which I think is exactly what stage 2 will do with an upgraded FMIC.

If the six paragraphs haven't been a big enough hint, I really fuck!ing love this car. The brakes faded bad on the downhill, but good lord this thing was a monster on the uphill. I spent probably 80% of my time in 4th gear, the torque from 2800ish RPM to 6000RPM feels flatter than a white chick's buns.

The run flats are the biggest hindrance to performance. I think the build plan going forward is to get a FMIC on in a few weeks, flash to stage 2, then throw on some Federal RSRR's in the LA winter, the run flats feel like they have another 5k in them. The downhill road is very uneven, which gave the stock rear sub-frame bushings a chance to really put their rankness of full display, so inserts are step 4. I'll throw on some better pads and pour in some better fluid after that. Lastly, if the tires don't improve the somewhat (really minimal) sluggish turn in, I'll do the M3 control arms and FSB.

Picture in the canyon right before I did a couple of donuts and headed back downhill past Newcobs. Viva la 1.
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Last edited by mfindigital; 08-31-2018 at 06:53 PM..
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      09-01-2018, 09:51 PM   #8975
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Ordered a 3-stage intake today and was getting ready to clean the windshield washer pump. I don't know if this qualifies, but someone else also decided to do something to the 128 today... (only ~4 weeks with bumper)

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      09-01-2018, 10:09 PM   #8976
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Ordered a 3-stage intake today and was getting ready to clean the windshield washer pump. I don't know if this qualifies, but someone else also decided to do something to the 128 today... (only ~4 weeks with bumper)


Kidding aside, sorry that happened...
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