01-09-2017, 10:55 AM | #90 |
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Question for those of you who have adjusted the rear ride height. . . See photo:
The threaded spring perch in photo is referred to in the Ohlins instructions as the "Preload Adjuster" but to me this must be the primary determinant of ride height since it carries the spring. The threaded shock body would adjust preload. According to Ohlins, 1 full rotation is 1.5mm height. So for example, to lower the car 1.5mm, I would do one full rotation of the threaded perch above, moving the perch closer to the frame. To return the preload to the recommended amount, I would also turn the threaded shock body 1 full turn to maintain the same unloaded spring length. Not sure why they would refer to the threaded spring perch as the "Preload Adjuster." Am I missing something?
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01-09-2017, 12:12 PM | #91 |
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Height can only be adjusted at the height adjuster, NOT at the damper. |
01-09-2017, 03:55 PM | #92 | |
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I have it set exactly to their recommendations, but may want to fine tune it once I have the fronts done and see how it all settles in, then I will take it to a shop for corner balancing. Ohlins claims 5mm rear and 15mm front drop at their recommended setup, about 5mm less drop all around compared to what everyone's claimed experience is.
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Last edited by CarJunkie; 02-27-2017 at 03:47 PM.. |
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01-09-2017, 04:49 PM | #93 | |
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01-27-2017, 08:47 PM | #94 |
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Installed!
So I followed Ohlin's recommendations exactly for the setup, measuring to the exact mm length. In the rear, the ride height is determined by the distance from the car body to the top of the spring where it meets the threaded perch. They recommend 37mm. This lifted the car about 6mm from stock. I shortened that distance to 30mm, which was about as short as I was comfortable, as the spring is barely preloaded at that length. It is my understanding that the shock length would not affect the preload, so I left it at Ohlin's recommended length. Once back on the ground and settled by rolling the car, it is 3-4mm lower than stock. In the front, the recommended distance from the bottom of the spring perch to the threaded lower perch is 163mm. This also resulted in the car sitting about 6mm higher than stock. I adjusted the threaded lower perch to 142 mm (aiming for the advertised 15mm lowering) and this resulted in a final drop of 12-13mm from stock. Honestly, at this height, it looks great. I wasn't aiming for a drop as much as proper handing. The front wheel gap is nicely reduced! I'll post more pics once I can get it out of the garage, currently snowed in. Question about the front . . . The dampening adjuster know seems a little exposed to me. Has anyone found a good solution for a dust cover?
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01-27-2017, 10:17 PM | #95 |
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Ohlins measurements indeed need some fine tuning. Not sure if it has to do with the kits were R&D in Europe using Euro spec cars or not. I was going to suggest something that is latex or rubber, everyone has something like that around, right? That way you get a water tight seal. Perhaps cutting off the finger portion of a latex glove and use that, just a thought. |
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01-27-2017, 11:06 PM | #96 |
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That should work, hopefully it will stay put.
Of course now I am debating tweaking the ride height a little, shoot for another 4-5mm all around. Project for another day.
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02-08-2017, 04:33 PM | #97 |
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A couple other tips for the rear install for those of you looking to tackle this:
1. Only cut 30mm off the rear dust boots NOT 85mm as in the current instructions. (I talked to the Ohlins rep about this and they are going to look to have the instructions updated. They were nice enough to send me new boots though.) 2. I found the best location for the adjuster hole in the trunk was 70mm directly below the hole for the mounting plug. The current instructions say to locate the hole only 20mm below the plug hole, but that isn't far enough out and the adjuster knob will hit the carpet still. (It will make sense when you are looking at it in person.) 2.5. I inserted a longer screw into the adjuster to help guide it through the trunk carpet panel. 3. Newer sets seem to come with an extra rubber washer which I placed in the "flexible spacer" location. The Ohlins USA guy agreed it didn't really matter if you have this in place or not, but it might help with noise. 4. I went and grabbed a pair of jam nuts from the hardware store to hold the rear shaft in place when tightening down the lock nut to final torque. Cost me 50 cents and was super easy. |
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02-10-2017, 12:58 PM | #98 | |
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02-10-2017, 07:48 PM | #99 |
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Good points!
I cut the dust boot as directed, but put both pieces on. The upper part seals to the top mount and the lower part seals to the shock body. They compress enough to seal to each other when the car is down, but can be spread apart for inspection. For comparison, the stock dust boots on the front come off the shock body when the car is raised. The stock rear dust shields were a hard plastic that really didn't even make a seal. My solution should work fine, but I'll monitor it. Regarding the rear adjuster hole, I could also tell looking at things that the measurements for the hole were off. I went 65mm below the mounting hole. Pretty similar! I used both rubber washers on the rear, the thinner one at the top, and the thicker one on the plastic lower spring mount. Another good install tip: When installing the rear adjusters, place a rag in the hole next to the rear shock shaft. It leads into a cavernous pit of framework. I dropped the adjuster when it didn't thread properly, and fortunately it landed toward the trunk. If it had fallen toward the rear of the car, it would have been down in the frame somewhere! I breathed a sigh of relief, and then placed a rag in the hole just in case I had another drop.
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02-11-2017, 07:49 PM | #100 |
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02-27-2017, 03:44 PM | #102 |
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I developed some clunking in the rear today after about 150 miles of driving. It came on pretty rapidly and fortunately I was only a miles from home.
Outside the car, there was a click heard from the right side if I bounced the rear. I took off the wheel and found that the locking ring for the shock length adjuster had worked itself loose. I verified that the other side remained tight. I verified that the length hadn't changed, tightened it, and the sound was gone. I'll recheck them in a few hundred miles. At least I discovered that once the locking ring is loose, the whole shock can be threaded into or out of the adjustment perch while it remains mounted in the LCA, so adjustment of the shock length is easy.
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02-27-2017, 04:04 PM | #103 | |
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Could be a QC issue, but first time I heard of it. Will make Ohlins USA aware of it though. |
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02-27-2017, 07:16 PM | #104 |
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I think you misunderstood, I am referring to the aluminum ring (notched for the included adjuster wrenches) that threadlocks the bronze adjustment sleeve to the threaded shock body. It is meant to be user adjusted.
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02-27-2017, 08:02 PM | #105 |
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Yes, I am aware of what you are referring to. The lock ring came loose without any of your doing, right?
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02-27-2017, 08:35 PM | #106 |
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Yes, but I may not have tightened it enough to begin with after setting the length. I'll recheck it after some more miles.
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02-27-2017, 09:43 PM | #107 |
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03-11-2017, 07:23 PM | #108 |
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Everything is staying nice and tight.
New tires installed last week: RE71r in 255/35 front, 275/35 rear on the stock wheels. Alignment: Front -2.4 degrees camber, 0 toe Rear -1.6 degrees camber 0.15" toe in I have finally had a couple really nice days to do some driving and am very happy with the Ohlin's. I have left them at the recommended 12 clicks from full stiff (street setting) and the ride is pretty good, obviously not as compliant as stock. Every imperfection in the road is felt, and large bumps definitely have a little more edge to them, but it is not uncomfortable. If I still lived in Maine (crappy roads) I may not be as happy with it. In dry eastern Washington, where most roads are smooth and well maintained, its perfect. Even on this "soft" setting, the car maintains its composure really well and the body movement is controlled. There is definitely no bounce. I will try some of the stiffer settings when the weather is warmer and there is a little more grip in the tires. They recommend 7 clicks from full stiff for windy roads and 3 clicks from full stiff for race. I have an autocross next weekend and will probably start with 5 clicks from full stiff considering weather will be cold and I am on street tires.
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03-11-2017, 10:28 PM | #110 |
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Yes, stock wheels, stock caster position, lowered about 17mm, no rub.
Last year at stock ride height, I was using 1 step higher caster on the plates. At that caster, the passenger side had a slight rub when turning right due to a bulge in the rear part of the liner that is only found on that side.
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