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05-01-2018, 02:32 PM | #89 |
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I recently ordered and replaced the belt, tensioner and idler pulleys (the package seen here from ECS Tuning) on my 2011 135i and I still have a belt squeak at around 1500+ RPM's. I know it's the belt because when I spray water on the v side of the belt while it is running, the noise temporarily goes away. I've re-ordered another tension pulley from ECS thinking the one that they sent was faulty (unlikely) and I've done the OFHG. There is no visible sign of oil on the belt or anywhere around the belt. Any ideas why I'm still getting a squeak?
Also have installed OEM alternator and AC compressor in the last 1k miles that didn't solve the problem. |
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05-01-2018, 05:10 PM | #90 | |
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Maybe check that?
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2011 BMW 135i ///M-Sport, DCT
Bilstein B12 kit, Dinan camber plates, M3 front control arms, Whiteline poly RSFB, MHD Stage 1, cp-e Charge Pipe, H&R Front sway bar, BMW performance diffuser |
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05-01-2018, 07:04 PM | #91 | |
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So are all your pulley's new? Maybe there is some residue or debret inside the groves ? Maybe use a pick to clean out the channels. A loose PS pump is also a good idea and also check your front crankshaft bolt that it's not loose. Some cars had issues with the crank bolt loosening up. Also check the front subframe for any contact with the crankshaft pulley. Some guys when they drag their car's can get axel hop and cause the pulley to contact the front radiator subframe. Dackel
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T_EV16.50 |
05-02-2018, 07:49 PM | #92 | ||
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Check out these two videos that go further into what noise I'm hearing. Notes: 2011 N55 135i M sport, 72k miles, stock, no tune, (may have had one on it before, I am second owner) new deflection/tensioner pulley, new alternator, new ac compressor, new belt, OFHG done. Car does not make the noise when the belt is off. No visible signs of oil leaks. Each pulley running smoothly with zero movement (due to misalignment): Water test, the bottom pulley of the two on the new tensioner has a small vibration, is that normal? ***Edit Update*** Still not solved, but I will say that I took the belt off and took a tooth brush and cleaned every pulley and the belt in order to clean oil off of the belt/pulleys, and around all of the pulleys. There was little to no black residue coming off anything, there was a little bit of dried up oil around some of the pulleys on the engine block, but no active leaks anywhere. I then put a brand new belt *yes a 3rd belt* on the car, fired it up, drove down the road and in less than 100 feet the belt squeak was there. I think I can now eliminate oil leaking on the belt because if there was oil leaking on the belt, would it not take a few miles at least to build back up on the belt? I'm at a loss. Last edited by T_EV; 05-02-2018 at 09:05 PM.. Reason: Update |
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05-03-2018, 07:38 AM | #93 | |
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Maybe take the belt off(Again!) and turn each pulley by hand and listen for any bearing noises. There are tools that can help pinpoint a misaligned pulley... see this video at 09:30... Dackel
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05-03-2018, 10:02 AM | #94 | |
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05-15-2018, 06:52 AM | #95 |
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I gave up, this is me signing off. $3,000 in shop/DIY's in less than three months and I traded her in last night on a new Mazda CX5 for the wife. Thanks everyone for all of the help, I wish I had of been able to find a solution and enjoy the car longer but I had to cut my losses as they exponentially grew.
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05-26-2018, 11:43 AM | #96 |
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Well, i replaced the belt today, along with the tensioner.
I also ordered an idle roller, according to my dealer and realoem. Apparently my car does not have one installed. I am so confused now, if i should install it or leave it as i found it, despite purchasing the car with 46,000 kms who knows what or who did anything to it. Part no: 11287535860 Supposed to sit under the alternator pulley, but nothing is there. That is what caused me to make a mistake with the belt, i had to loosen the new aluminum bolt holding the new tensioner. I know it is a one time use, but i had no choice. Babied the car back home, Monday i will purchase a new bolt and install it. Maybe i will temp install that idler to see how it fits in there, as i said it confused me when Realoem and the dealer informed me that i have one, yet on the car there isn't. |
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08-30-2018, 08:57 AM | #97 |
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Reviving this thread because I am having belt squeal. It was intermittent - some days yes, some days no, and now some days it is worse than others, but it is pretty much a constant.
I would like to DIY fix it. I have a question: I haven't really looked at it yet, but does the N55 have one belt or more than one? I thought it only had one, but I keep seeing references to the serpentine belt and the accessory belt - I assume they are the same, but the lack of common terminology makes me wonder. So is this a fairly easy DIY fix without specialized tools or equipment? First I was thinking of just adjusting the tension and see if that works, and if it doesn't, moving on to replace the belt and maybe pulley(s). I am going to read through the whole thread ASAP and some of my questions may be answered, but I am at work and won't have time until later today. Any help would be appreciated.
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"Hrothgar": 2012 135i: 6MT M-Sport, BSM/Blk; Nav, Premium, Convenience, HK Dinan Stage 2 +PPK /// BMW PE /// VRSF CP /// K&N /// Koni Sports /// RSFB Inserts /// MPS4S 225/255 /// Other Stuff |
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08-30-2018, 03:33 PM | #98 |
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It’s pretty easy. Take your time and go slowly, use a piece of cardboard on the radiator to protect its fins and you’ll be fine. If you have a dct you need access from underneath to take out one screw to release the transmission cooler from the radiator fan. If it’s a M/T you can do this from above only.
There is only one belt and one tensioner. You need a quality set of torx sockets (male and female) to finish the job. |
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Dackelone10758.50 |
08-30-2018, 03:38 PM | #99 | |
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There is only ONE belt. I would replace your belt along with the tensioner and idler pulleys. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_5092 N55 engine... N54 engine...
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01-12-2019, 02:46 PM | #100 |
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Update
BMWCCA Roundel editor Mike Miller put this "note" in January issue.
"NOTE FROM TECH TALK:N54 ENGINES There are rare but costly occasions of poly-ribbed belt tensioner failure leading to front crankshaft seal damage. Replace poly-ribbed belts and their tensioners preventively every 60,000 miles." Now, another issue can be a badly leaking oil filter housing gasket [OFHG] can leak oil onto the belt causing it to break. This affects N52 engines as well. I recently pulled an alternator off an E90 w/N52 and it was all covered in oil. Now this situation would take a long time to develop and the leaking OFHG would be ignored by whomever is doing oil changes. |
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09-25-2020, 06:52 AM | #101 | |
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Amazing!
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I need to get this done, and I dread laying on my back on a cold garage floor removing the engine cover. |
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09-25-2020, 07:46 AM | #102 | |
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Replacing the belt, tensioner, and idler pulleys was the first time I've gone into my engine fumbling around. |
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09-25-2020, 09:46 AM | #103 | |
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Thank You!
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09-25-2020, 09:51 AM | #104 |
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One thing you might want to invest in is to get a serpentine belt tool. I have one. This tool is a super long bar that is very low profile with low profile sockets. It helped immensely with the needed clearance and leverage to get the belt on the pulleys.
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09-25-2020, 11:22 AM | #105 | |
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Like this one?
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09-25-2020, 12:03 PM | #106 | |
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10-22-2020, 11:01 AM | #108 |
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This should help you DIYers!
I found this great step-by-step repair guide to replace the tensioner and pulleys without removing the fan shroud.
https://www.bmwrepairguide.com/bmw-n...arged-n54-n55/ |
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02-12-2022, 10:41 PM | #110 | |
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+1 on a good torx set. |
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