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01-15-2012, 07:20 PM | #89 | |
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They come from when the engine was put together in the assembly process. BMW uses that blue sealant where a paper/wax/rubber gasket is not needed. Instead they use this blue silicone to "seal" the two metal surfaces (flanges and plates). |
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02-04-2012, 06:38 PM | #90 |
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So I finally got around to doing this today on my 1M at about 2,000 miles. I had been waiting on a 14mm hex socket that I ordered from Snap-on which came this week, and realized that I only need the 8mm for the trans (which I already had).
I used the funnel with nylon tubing / gravity method and it worked like a charm, the one other thing I did was use a pair of needle nose vise grips to crimp off the tubing as I was filling the funnel (toward the end) so that I could stop the flow of oil once the trans was full, worked like a charm, and no mess at all, once full I emptied out the remainder of the oil in the funnel/tubing into the first, now empty, oil quart. I got about 1.1 L out of my trans. and it took almost exactly 1.25L to fill. I could not find specs for what I should torque the trans drain plug and fill plug to so i just torqued them to 35 lb/ft, I will keep an eye on it and if I come across the correct spec from say a dackelone post then I will adjust. The old oil did not look to dirty or smell very different from the new oil that I put in it, but was dirty enough that I am glad I changed it. As for oil I used Porsche PDK oil that I bought from flzrider, he had some extra and was the same price as buying new and at the time the BMW stuff seemed hard to come by, so we shall see. Also while I had the car up, and the trans shield off I noticed a small leak from the CDV valve. I probably should have just modded it while I was under there, I will keep an eye on it, and if it continues to leak will take care of it. Any one else have a leak here? TJ |
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04-30-2012, 12:13 PM | #91 |
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So... last year I changed my manual trans fluid with what my BMW zentrum told me was the proper fluid. I have a 2010 US spec 6MT 135i. The car came with BMW fluid MTF-LT-3. My dealer said that LT-3 is now superceeded to LT-4. So I got 2.5L of LT-4 and changed my fluid last year. I did not really notice much a change in shifter effort.
The first time I changed the tranny fluid was at 52K kms. What came out was dark black fluid. I was glad I changed it. I also changed teh rear diff fluid with Castrol's SAF-XJ 75w140. A little background... my shifter was always balky shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. Especially when the trans was cold. It would almost feel like it wanted to grind. But I never did make any noises - just that the gear lever was hard to move into 2nd gear. Later on when I had a performance SSK instaled the problem was the same. It just always balked when cold or on fast shifts when the trans was hot. A few weeks ago I finally got around to changing my trans fluid again. This time I used a trans fluid I was familar with(I used Redline's ATF-D4 in my manual trans e36 years ago with great results). I used Redline's ATF-D4 trans fluid for my 135i manual trans. Redline says it can be used in BMW's even though it is a ATF fluid, for a manual trans use. Do you own research... but I am hapy with my choice. From the moment I drove ten feet - I knew I made the right choice! The shifter effort is lighter and all that notchyness is gone. No more balking or problems when shifting from 1st to 2nd!! It really feels like a different transmision. Smooth as silk. I would highly reccomend using Redline's AFT-D4 to anyone sitting on the fence. I really can not believe I waited so long to try it. Partly it was warranty worries. But in the end you really have to pay to play. And I was at the point where this balky shifter was really starting to bother me. Take a look at my pics. I think they say a lot about BMW's "lifetime fluids" nonsense!! Just look at the bottle on the left!! That is LT-4 with only 26K kms!!!! I wonder how bad it would look after 100K kms or 200K kms!!! BMW MTF-LT-4 trans fluid. Left old used for 26K kms! Right one, new LT-4 fluid. old MTF-LT-4, new LT-4, new R.L. ATF-D4 |
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04-30-2012, 05:35 PM | #92 |
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I used their D6 ATF fluid - I believe that is what Redline recommends. What let you to use the D4 ATF instead?
I have not noticed any issues with the D6 ATF in about 10k miles. Thanks. http://lovehorsepower.com/joomla/ind...=326&Itemid=94 |
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04-30-2012, 09:38 PM | #93 | ||
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D4 is likely the right lube, as it has closer to GL4 additization with the right frictional characteristics for synchronizers in MTs. ATFs tend to be a bit weak and a bit light for optimum protection. If I was going aftermarket, Id probably use a more midrange lube for added protection, even if giving up a bit of shift feel. Remember that the gearbox on the N54/55 isnt rated for much more than 300 lb-ft of torque, so youve given up most of the over-engineering that one could. As far as MTLs go: Current MTL GL4 viscosities are: 1. ATF viscosity Series; 6.5 to 8.5 cSt (Equivalent ATF viscosity; Note: ATF additive package is weak compared to most GL4's) 2. Synchromesh viscosity Series; 9.3 - 9.6 cSt (such as Amsoils MTF, Texaco's MTL, Pennzoil's Synchromesh, GM and Chrysler's Synchromesh) 3. 75W85 viscosity Series; 9.8 to 11.5 cSt ( Redline's MTL, RP's Synchromax LT, Nissan's MTL, Honda MTL, Castrol Syntorq LT) 4. 75W90 viscosity Series; 12.8 to 14.5 cSt (Amsoil's MTG, Redline's MT-90). Plenty to read here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1231182 And here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1782680 If you are interested. Also, this comes from prior issue (2006) of GM Techlink service news and it may applicable to current models. Quote:
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04-30-2012, 10:51 PM | #94 |
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Do you believe Redline's site has the incorrect information?
http://www.redlineoil.com/application.aspx Says that the correct fluid for the MT transmission is D6ATF. -Joe |
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04-30-2012, 11:12 PM | #95 | ||
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I dont know, when I put in my 2011 135i, it says D4.
And from the redline product pages, first, in the gear oil for MTs, only D4 is listed. Then, from the D4 product page: Quote:
Quote:
Unfortunately for much of this stuff, you dont see the real effect of decisions for tens of thousands of miles. Though Dex VI is more shear stable, I personally would want the added viscosity protection of a higher viscosity from a dex III fluid, which IMO is already fairly light for a gearbox. |
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04-30-2012, 11:19 PM | #96 |
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Interesting! It is different for the 2009:
I don't think BMW changed the transmission between those years though - did they? |
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05-25-2012, 09:30 PM | #97 |
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I changed my transmission oil out with Redline MTL and did not notice much of a difference.. Feels pretty much the same as before. Will drive with it for a month and switch to the ATFD4. Hope that will be better.
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05-25-2012, 11:16 PM | #98 |
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Likely going to ignore my diff fluid. Without a proper drain plug you won't be able to get most of the particulate matter and the EDiff sucks enough that I won't miss it when it grenades. Then I can finally get a proper M variable lock or something equally good back there.
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05-26-2012, 04:44 PM | #99 |
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Redline has fluid for limited slip differentials. If BMW doesn't want to sell us theirs, I think Red Line is a good way to go.
Jim
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05-27-2012, 08:01 AM | #100 |
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You can suction almost all of the diff fluid out if you take your time. Last time, after draining I added a little bit of fluid and suctioned it out a couple of times to get as much of the particulates as possible.
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07-25-2012, 03:05 PM | #101 |
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Great writeup wolfe ...followed the differential fluid change instructions and exactly as described. Was simple to do. A little time consuming trying to get as much of the old fluid out but the rest of was a breeze. Just have all your tools out and ready and a good fluid extractor and all is good. Been holding out on doing this and now will be doing it more frequently.
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09-01-2012, 11:10 AM | #103 |
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Castrol SAF-XJ 75W-140
Other than buying the 0.5 ml bottles of the Castrol SAF-XJ 75W-140 from BMW, it is almost impossible to find this gear oil in the US. I located what I believe to be the same exact gear oil produced by Castrol for use in the Nissan R35 GT-R. It is available from the Nismo Shop in California. It cost $43 per 1 litre can which is about 50% less than BMW pricing (per volume). Unfortunately, since the differential takes a little over 1 litre to change, you end up with surplus when you order 2 cans. If you team up with a buddy, you could order 3 cans and split the cost. Also since it comes in cans, versus the BMW bottles (with tubes), you have to transfer to an appropriate dispensing bottle.
http://www.thenismoshop.com/Castrol-...T-R-_p_48.html
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09-01-2012, 11:48 AM | #104 |
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Interesting - great lead. While I'd be very adamant about using BMW MTF in order to get good comparability with synchro materials and whatnot, diff oil I'd be less concerned. Amsoil SVG in the 110 or 140 weight range would be my choice.
In my view 110 would be optimal because what happened was that the API reduced the viscosity range that constituted a 90wt, which is what drove manufacturers to spec 140s. 110 is the heavier half of what 90wt used to include, so I'd be comfortable with it. Does anyone know the torque rating and other car range uses of the diff in the 135i? |
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09-01-2012, 02:16 PM | #105 |
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Sorry I do not know. But Castrol SAF-XJ 75W-140 is a GL-5 rated gear oil - IF that helps. Most gear oils are only of a GL-4 rating.
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09-01-2012, 02:34 PM | #106 |
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No, most gear oils are GL-5. GL-4 is used in applications where bronze components are utilized. GL4 and GL5 denote the EP protection level of the gear lube. Both have EP additives and AW additives, just different treatment levels.
Most differential lube manufacturers list the GL5 rating because the majority of differentials require that protection rating. GL4 is sometimes specified for components such as TC's and MT's because people have found that GL4 offer a less aggressive "attitude" toward non-ferrous parts such as the copper alloys of brass and bronze commonly used in sychronizer assemblies. |
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09-03-2012, 04:36 AM | #107 |
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FYI... When I owned a Porsche 944 Turbo(way back when) many PCA guys used Swepco gear oils in the trans and diff's. The fluid was bight blue/green and was used mostly in the food industry. Many guys swear by this fluid for P-cars.
http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/gear.htm I would still stick with using either OE fluids(for the trans and diff) or Redline AFT-D4 for the trans and Castrol SAF-XJ for the diff. And change them often (20K to 30K miles).
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09-04-2012, 10:16 PM | #108 | |
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I dont see anything special about XJ to be honest, and I dont believe there is any reason to run an LSD add pack in an open diff (not that there is anything wrong with it). 140 range gear oils seem a bit stout for 300 lb-ft to be honest, and while I dont criticize the choice, it is important to understand why a lot of the industry went to 140 wt lubes when the 90 wt range got cut (and how 110 fits into it, even though it is not a ubiquitous viscosity). Id use M1 75w-140 or Amsoil SVG 75w-110 or -140 with equal confidence to XJ. |
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09-10-2012, 02:56 PM | #109 |
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I think there's a VOA of the BMW MTF-LT3 over on BITOG. It's thinner than D4 ATF from what I recall, closer to D6 I believe (at least the vis@100)
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2727993 However, since it's 'lifetime fill' I've seen it speculated that it'll thicken over time so perhaps they start out with a thinner fluid with this in mind? |
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09-17-2012, 10:05 AM | #110 | |
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