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04-13-2017, 01:41 PM | #89 |
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I had a crazy thought with this, is there a way to perhaps use a smaller pulley on the power steering pump? It would spin the pump faster and perhaps provide more assist.
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04-13-2017, 01:51 PM | #90 | |
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04-15-2017, 09:09 AM | #91 |
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04-15-2017, 11:49 AM | #93 |
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If you feel the need too, this can be done.
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04-19-2017, 10:35 AM | #94 |
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Hello All,
An update on my previous posts. The reason for the irregularity in assistance came down to the servo valve on the rack being loose. I needed to perform a bit of surgery on a lip on the front drivers side engine bay surround to get at and tighten the second screw and now all good. Both where about 2 turns loose. May have happened when the rack was tested for leaks. The intermittent faults appears to have come from the pin in the solenoid valve sticking and either staying open or closed. I then used Ediabas to align the steering sensor. That increased the assistance closer to dead ahead. You then need to clear all the faults with INPA as a number do come up. I then looked at the JBBF ecu with NCS Dummy and made the following adjustments: COMFORT_GESCHWINDIKEIT wert_01 wert_02 COMFORT_STROM Wert_01 SPORT_GESCHWINDIKEIT Wert_01 Wert-02 SPORT_STROM Wert_02 These are different to the settings on the 1M. Gerschwindikeit is the assistance curve and strom is the level of assistance by current to the valve. These settings, I have found, give the max level of assistance which is what is needed if you are using the standard 135i pump. This is still heavier weight than standard but not ridiculous as it was with the valve non operational. The steering is now well weighted at anything other than at full stop and around the city is a pleasure, very accurate and easy to swing. At full stop there is still a bit of load but nothing unmanageable. About the weight of an early front wheel drive car. A supplementary benefit is DSC is not updated when option 216 is installed. It is still the standard 135i DSC settings and is set up with the standard 135i steering curve. With the faster rack DSC is fooled into believing that the wheel is not turned as far and thus DSC does not interfere as much if you are making corrections with the wheel. I have had no DSC interference when hanging the tail out on irregular corners which was previously quite noticeable. Installing Koni Yellows I think also helped. The rear feels far more controlled and settled. All up it was worth persevering to get the servo valve to operate correctly. With the other mods made the car feels totally different from standard. If you want to see how servotronic works there is a PDF on the ZF web site which explains the operation. Quite interesting. |
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05-27-2017, 12:42 PM | #95 |
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Has anybody left the servotronic unplugged on a car that they track? I've long been curious about this swap but am curious how tough it will be to turn below 30-40 MPH, especially at the track, which happens on occasion.
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05-28-2017, 04:33 PM | #96 |
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I have heard it's not bad as long as you are moving above parking lot speeds. I am interested in doing this swap but need to find a shop in the Seattle area capable of doing it.
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03-13-2018, 11:23 AM | #98 |
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M3 Steering Rack Center!
Hi guys,
I am trying to center the M3 steering rack but it seems strange. So I used the black arrow to line with the two markers on the rack. However, if I do an end-to-end turn, I don't get even turns on either side. The "center" of the rack at the half of end-to-end turns is shown in lining the black arrow to the green line below, right of the bolt that attaches to the heat shield. This is weird because there are no markings at all there. Is this correct? Thanks!!! |
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03-14-2018, 11:40 AM | #100 | |
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Fantastic- thank you guys for the awesome replies. The steering wheel is now straight and the rack is centered. [IMPORTANT!] FYI for everybody else who is thinking about doing this mod. In my 2009 135i (no servo.), the steering angle is actually different from the M3 steering rack (sourced from a 2008 E93 M3). What this means is that you need to find the center of the rack, cut the plastic tab, and make sure your steering column (or wheel) is at center and place at the right angle at the connection between the column and rack. 1. the M3 steering rack markers (even the arrow to the number that looks exactly like that black arrow attached to the splines) don't mean jack. Use end-to-end method to find the center. What I have done is push the rack to the left end then mark where the arrow is, and push the rack to the right end then mark where the arrow is. About a bit over 1 turn, put the arrow right at the mid-arc between the two markers [first picture below]. (this is a lot more accurate than counting rotations). 2. align that black arrow (which is opposite of the tab) [marked in red in the second photo] to the center [another angle as shown in the third photo]. Sanity check by looking at your tie rods and see if they are approx. the same length (this maybe different if your tie rods are adjusted). 3. cut the tab as [dotted red in 4th image] 4. when attaching the steering column, make sure [green arrow of 5th image] is aligned to where your previous steering column is centered. For me, my center line fo the column is show in the green arrow of the [6th image]. 5. To attach the steering column to the rack, to make things easier, lube the splines up a bit and use a screw driver to widen the steering column slit a bit. Have one person doing a bench press below the rack to push it up. Have a second person positioned near the steering wheel with one hand on the right and one hand on the column. Make sure that the steering column arrow [5th image] is aligned with [6th image] before using force to push the steering column onto the rack flush. |
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03-14-2018, 04:39 PM | #101 |
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I didn't cut the plastic tab at all when I installed the M3 rack, it was plug and play.
I purchased the steering shaft from an M3 as well (the ujoint linkage from the rack to the firewall). That is probably the difference and means you don't have to cut anything. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...&postcount=178
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03-15-2018, 07:32 AM | #103 |
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M3 shaft is way beefier. I thought it did not fit a 135i though... it's listed as being a different length. I guess it has a slip joint that compresses so it fits?
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03-15-2018, 07:44 AM | #104 | |
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As for the shaft being beefier, it is probably true, but it's not like there is a lot of effort going through the column. Most of the work is done by the rack anyway. |
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03-15-2018, 08:20 AM | #105 |
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My steering wheel has started to exhibit a bit of play. I may end up putting in the 1m/m3 steering shaft if I can get one cheap. I am not sure where the play is yet though. I thought the length was an issue. I guess not.
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03-20-2018, 04:38 PM | #106 | |
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I paid $100AUD shipped for mine, frankly for that price id rather have this shiny piece of metal on the car. I'm sure it doesn't do much but its not like it cost much.
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03-21-2018, 09:41 AM | #107 |
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Sometimes you RHD guys are lucky
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05-18-2018, 12:24 PM | #108 |
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I just did this, and was really nervous about the tab, and the wiring/coding. All I can say is, if you're on the fence: DO IT! The install was a piece of cake (I cut the tab) and it's really not bad at all without the servotronic stuff hooked up. The quicker ratio is more than worth the [slightly] heavier slow speed feel.
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06-12-2018, 05:46 AM | #110 |
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Did anyone do this with a 1series with active steering equipped?
I drove the 1M from a friend and the biggest difference is the Feeling of steeering... so i think about doing the swap, but i am not sure if itīs possible because my car has active steering... |
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