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06-05-2018, 11:31 AM | #111 | |
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06-05-2018, 11:33 AM | #112 | |
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Link to kit? I bought my arms used from ebay for much less than new, so that is one advantage to piece the parts together yourself. I should have a table with all of the bolt part numbers. let me know if you need it.
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06-05-2018, 12:31 PM | #114 |
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Only thing I would order from HPA would be the sensor bracket. Unless you're saying a part from thebmwpartstore does the trick.
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06-05-2018, 12:41 PM | #115 | |
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As a halogen owner, it's unclear why the stock 1M bracket wouldn't work. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/37142283617/
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06-05-2018, 01:19 PM | #116 | |
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06-05-2018, 02:07 PM | #117 |
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Ah.
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06-06-2018, 10:12 AM | #118 |
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Yeah it is. I had the M3 part and it didn't line up.
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06-06-2018, 01:08 PM | #119 |
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You inspired me and I found a set of used arms shipped for substantially less than even one of the arms would have been new. So now I gotta figure out bushings/bolts/etc.
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06-07-2018, 07:45 PM | #120 |
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06-07-2018, 08:12 PM | #121 |
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Attach it/send it homie!
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06-07-2018, 09:31 PM | #122 |
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06-08-2018, 05:48 AM | #123 |
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Went back and looked! You da bomb man.
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09-18-2018, 08:31 AM | #124 |
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12-12-2018, 09:41 AM | #125 | |
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I dropped off my ball joints to my machinist today to get them lathed down to 44.30mm dia. However tonight I've taken out the old bushings and measured the hole in the toe arm and it reads 44.50 - 44.90mm diameter depending which side I measure from... FYI, I also plan to use these ball joints on the trailing arms. I've found that the standard toe arms actually use the same part number bushing as the trailing arms. So I though that measuring hole in the wheel carrier might give me some clarity. It turns out to be exactly 45mm dia. So does the spring effect of the split bushing account for the difference in toe arm vs trailing arm/wheel carrier hole size? And therefore should these ball joints be lathed to different diameters for each? I feel like I need an engineer to tell me what tolerance I need for an interference/press fit. But I don't know if it's different based on the material it's being pressed into... fe1rx did you document the diameter of the camber arm hole that this ball joint was originally designed for? Or do you still have the camber arm available? Could you please measure the diameter? Any advice asap from anyone knowledgeable would be heaps appreciated! I know I haven't contributed much here yet but I'm just getting started with my 130i journey and plan to share my findings And thank you SOOO much for your posts fe1rx!! |
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12-12-2018, 03:43 PM | #126 | |
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12-13-2018, 01:31 AM | #127 | |
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I figured out the reason for the difference is that you bought new arms whereas I've pressed the old bushings out of my existing arms, who's holes must have expanded slightly over time. I'm hoping I have better luck with the Meyle bushings I'm installing with (hopefully) no need to tack weld. One of the reasons I went this option over the aftermarket options was for the long service life after all. Do you think the washers affect the range of motion or effectiveness of controlling toe? I'm feeling optimistic that this could still be a good option for the toe arms, along with the trailing arms. I'll report back the results & longevity. |
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12-13-2018, 03:47 PM | #128 | |
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12-13-2018, 08:34 PM | #129 | |
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This OD sounds big for the toe arms but actually isn't. Because of the folded sheet metal construction it easily accomodates the bearing but is tight enought to be completely secure. I had an OE toe arm lying around so I pressed out the bushing and pressed in the outer race of one of these bearings. I didn't want to waste a good bearing so I tried it with the outer race of one I had disassembled. It should be obvious that you must press the bearings in from the top of the arm as viewed in these photographs. Support the arm with a tube that nests into the formed radius, not on the thin formed edge, when both pressing in and pressing out and things will go much better than if you try to press against the thin formed edge. Bimmerworld sells a spherical bearing kit for the trailing arms, which I have recently installed. They provide no installation instructions with this particular kit so my instructions are based on my experience. The parts supplied were not Lemforder but were equivalent and measured 45.15 mm OD. The corresponding mounting holes are 45.00 mm, and this is a good hard interference fit. I recommend using 12 mm high tensile threaded rod to pull the bearings in if you are doing it on the car. 3/8" garden variety threaded rod will snap. 3/8" high tensile threaded rod or a 3/8" grade 8 bolt might work, but only just. Lubricate the threads ... I strongly recommend grinding a short 45.00 mm diameter lead in onto the sphericals before you try to press them into the upright. I chucked them in a lathe and did it with a file. Very little material removal is needed. This might seem like splitting hairs, but it is one of those tricks that really makes a difference in terms of getting the bearing started straight. If it doesn't start straight, more pulling will not sort out your problem. Your tooling needs to be good for this job because, as I have said, it is a good hard pull to get the bushings into the upright in particular. Of course you must push on the outer race, not the inner or you willd destroy the bearings. If you look carefully at the OE bushing installation into both the subframe and upright you will see that it is not exactly centred into the lug. The official BMW tool installs the bushings to a stop in the tooling. If you want to get your bearings installed just so, measure the depth of the original installation before you dismount the bushings. Then install the sphericals to the same depth, compensating for the slightly different width of the bushing outer shell and bearing outer race. The same process works for the subrame end of the trailing arm. Again grinding a 45.00 mm diameter lead in really helps. Buying 4 of the sphericals yourself is quite a bit cheaper than getting the Bimmerworld kit but I needed to buy their kit to see what they were using. |
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12-13-2018, 09:59 PM | #130 |
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Ah nice, so with this info we can just buy 4x Lemforder p/n 3067901 and press them into the subframe and knuckle.
I found I could not get the ball joints pressed into the toe arms, but this is before I had a hydraulic press to play with. What are you thoughts on the upgrade? Any improvement?
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12-14-2018, 12:39 PM | #131 | |
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12-21-2018, 04:35 AM | #132 | |
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Are you also going with solid engine, trans and diff mounts? I saw you already have the TMS solid RSFBs but they don't really add any additional NVH (well, not in my opinion). When did your car become track only? And how far are you going to take it? Aero and slicks? |
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