SCCA STU build

verlumpt · 04-22-2011, 11:14 AM

yes the furthest back in the system cat is the one referenced in the current rules you have to be no more than 6" back of it. Anywhere before that is completely legal, as long as your car stays legal w/ emissions control devices/sensors.

TSiggs · 04-22-2011, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by verlumpt

yes the furthest back in the system cat is the one referenced in the current rules you have to be no more than 6" back of it. Anywhere before that is completely legal, as long as your car stays legal w/ emissions control devices/sensors.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amalfitano

id recommend also looking at the fastrack proposal for the st re-org. with current rules, yes i agree with you. but i remember reading the proposal and thinking it was changing that wording. So you could go that route but then have to change it all next year. though all of that is in the comment phase, so there's that.

Ahhh, cool. Good to know!

Amalfitano · 04-24-2011, 12:20 PM

BMWCCA - Windy City chapter - Maywood Park - bumpygraveltightugh, with just one quick spin.

Felt good just to drive again. I'd critique myself too strongly and say i'm not adapting quickly enough. My first non-spin run was a 52, ended the day with a 48.5, class lead was almost 46 flat (which was a SM build e36 M3), and sure hoosiers versus star specs and yadayadayada, but an str build Z3 got to 47.4. I'm sure i left gobs of time out there, and it was an infuriatingly slow course in spots that then opened up just to clamp down again, but clock don't lie. Jeff and Clark were driving the same course as me, so no excuses.

I started 36 psi square cold, then just evened the left/right up front and dropped the rear pressure. At times i was able to be just aggressive enough to point the car perfect, but i still didn't trust it enough to really take advantage of the fast spots. I started twiddling with the knobs for the rear rebound but i was messed up in so many spots, and the surface was so sketchy i don't think i would've tuned my way to jack sh*t.

For the corner balance knowledgeable people out there. i don't have scales to check my work, but right now i'm "balanced" with a 52% front. I like the way the front behaves but i just intuitively don't like how high my rear height is set. There is plenty of room between the fender and tire, and i would think that dropping the rear height would help with keeping the rear grip. If my cross weights are balanced (or whatever you call the LF/RR versus RF/LR), would i be eable to evenly drop the rear height on both sides and keep that cross weight balance, or will that drop mess up everything?

My guess is it messes up everything with the left side driver weight bias and i would have to ever so slightly drop more on the right side than the left side.

bradford · 04-24-2011, 12:41 PM

For reference, my corner balance weights were:

LF949 RF921
LR859 RR829

Amalfitano · 04-25-2011, 12:01 PM

Here is the STR build z3 versus me. If I have my bearings correctly this should be while going through an offset gate, so no braking.

My rear height is just plain off...ugh. And it's my fault. I talked to the guys and left a note about the ride height and how the *front* could not be dropped any do to tire rubbing, but they may have read that to imply both front and rear...

I need to drop some of that rear height, it can't be doing me any rear grip favors.

Amalfitano · 04-25-2011, 01:18 PM

I think my brain got fried over the weekend... I might need to wait til tomorrow to start thinking about car setup...

Amalfitano · 04-26-2011, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bradford

For reference, my corner balance weights were:

LF929 RF941
LR850 RR829

Are those rear numbers flipped? The cross weights are much closer to even with the LR and RR flipped.

Amalfitano · 05-09-2011, 08:50 AM

What have you guys done for the rear swaybar endlinks? Or otherwise to limit pre-load while lowering the car?

Amalfitano · 05-10-2011, 09:43 AM

For this event i'm getting experimental...

I'm zip-tying the rear sway bar and going sway-less. I'm not sure what to do about the pre-load and I need to drop about 1/2 in, maybe a little more and the bar is already pre-loaded.

Any chicago types should consider checking out the Tri-State Spors Car Council event this sunday at Toyota Park, or next weekend at Sears Centre. www.tsscc.org

bradford · 05-10-2011, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amalfitano

Are those rear numbers flipped? The cross weights are much closer to even with the LR and RR flipped.

Doh, thanks for the heads up. I checked the photo of the scale again and I transcribed it very poorly.

Corrected:

LF949 RF921
LR859 RR829

Amalfitano · 05-17-2011, 10:15 AM

Ridiculous Rain day Sunday only proved that I am not smarter than the car's DSC. Traction Control all the way on was much faster for me than trying to thread it myself. I'm still not anticipating the throttle-by-wire well enough. This is part of why a BSP build would be easier since i can't touch boost which knocks out all of the cheap ECU options.

I looked at a few of the throttle by wire only options, but I think i'd have the same problem as Terry Fair in his Mustang STX build. Terry had too sensitive of a throttle, so getting the throttle to 25%-50% was practically impossible, the throttle tune was practically WOT right away giving no real control over the midrange. I just want the delay gone, and it feels like there's a dead zone in the pedal. I am definitely struggling to get the right throttle in slower turns.

cpt97m3 · 05-17-2011, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amalfitano

Ridiculous Rain day Sunday only proved that I am not smarter than the car's DSC. Traction Control all the way on was much faster for me than trying to thread it myself. I'm still not anticipating the throttle-by-wire well enough. This is part of why a BSP build would be easier since i can't touch boost which knocks out all of the cheap ECU options.

I looked at a few of the throttle by wire only options, but I think i'd have the same problem as Terry Fair in his Mustang STX build. Terry had too sensitive of a throttle, so getting the throttle to 25%-50% was practically impossible, the throttle tune was practically WOT right away giving no real control over the midrange. I just want the delay gone, and it feels like there's a dead zone in the pedal. I am definitely struggling to get the right throttle in slower turns.

So have you found a good software upgrade solution that is STU legal?

larryn · 05-17-2011, 08:49 PM

I think he's talking about a sprint booster. Those do not touch the engine tune... only the gas pedal mapping is affected.. Basically it makes the car think you are pressing harder than you actually are.

I'm not a fan of them, but some swear by them.

Amalfitano · 05-18-2011, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryn

I think he's talking about a sprint booster.

Yup, those I don't think would fix much. It wouldn't take much pedal to get on it but it probably would get too much on it...

ECU options... get a jb4 and try to get burger to help with a custom map, then somehow delete all other maps from the jb4 to stay class legal.

Wait for the COBB tuner package and "Try" to do it ourselves.

Locally, we have a place called eurocharged in chicagoland, which is or was the home base of what used to be LET tuning. They have a new facility in Texas but i can't tell form the website how much of the operation moved and how much stayed behind. They could probably do that custom tune as an ECU flash, and they sell a handheld to re-flash & un-flash as needed.

I mostly brought the ECU up to vent. I'm just not adapting well yet to throttle input with the stock drive-by-wire. The ECU is not in my budget yet, and most likely more bushing work will come before ecu.

Amalfitano · 05-25-2011, 02:13 PM

Idiot-proof your work if you can...

A thicker rear bar with a too-low (read for autocrossers as ideal), and the bar can rub up against the CV boot. With the stock endlinks it should hold it mostly out of the way, but i wanted to reduce the pre-load but there just isn't the room too. So your options are pre-loaded big bar, machining your end endlinks with a different bar than an M3 bar, i believe there are a few adjustables in the 15mmish range, or go with no-bar.

For now, i'm doing no bar, and i might be dropping the front bar size from the hotchkis to the M3 front, but i want to see how the car responds first. I think the first theory that the front on full soft damp with a relatively high rebound in the rear (8 of 12) could do the trick.

Also, do any of you have a racerpartswholesale tire gauge? I bought their base model ($20) 0-60PSI last year, and just discovered this past weekend that it's off by 7-8 PSI, though i think it's linear. Has anyone re-calibrated one? I have an e-mail out to them, but i'm not confident i'll get much help for a $20 piece of equipment.

RedTRex · 06-01-2011, 12:12 PM

I have swapped back to stock FSB (kept the Hotchkis end links), haven't run this way yet as I was busy finishing Masters Degree. I am signed up for local June 12 event.

Frampton · 06-01-2011, 01:58 PM

ok i finally subscribed to this thread and will be jumping in with some of my work so far to see what y'all think... i am also working on an STU build but may decide to move to BSP at some point to play with more power. I take off my COBB tune for the STU runs.

i will warn you i am new to autox x and only have a few hundred miles of track experience but I just did my first autox in the STU class 2 weeks ago and am completely hooked. I was about 5-6 seconds off the lead time on a 38-45+ second course for the majority of cars across all of the normal classes. First and second fastest times of the day in STU were from a COBB STI at high 38's. I ran a 44.4 on stock suspension with only an m3 vert fsb on vmr vb3's with 215/245 yokohama sdrives. i had one of the COBB drivers ride with me and his biggest feedback was that i needed to get rid of the understeer and stop being a wimp with the right pedal...

I have 3 autox days coming in June and i just installed tckline coilovers and vorshlag camber plates to even try to be competitive. I will also be switching to stock wheels with brand new kumho ecsta xs's in 225/245.

I know between upgrading my driving skill with some more events and practice will surely drop my times a lot mixed with the coilovers and camber plates i did last week i should be a bit more competitive. Any recommendation on tire pressure or quick modifications I can do in the next 2 weeks to get even closer?

Below is my current setup:
TCKLine Double Adjustable Coilovers 350#F/700#R setup soft up front stiff in the rear
Vorshlag Camber plates nearly maxed on negative camber
-1/16" toe up front
Berk Technology Street Muffler and Mid Pipes (Dynoing this afternoon to see if I gain actual power)
DCI's (Also dynoing today both stock air box and dci's to compare if there is any real loss/gain with current setup) *i know i lost power with the dci's im just confirming again by dynoing the same day
M3 Vert FSB
Stock 264's wrapped in 225/245 Kumho XS's
or VMR VB3 18x8.5ET40/18x9.5ET45 wrapped in 215/245 Yoko S Drives (need new tires before i run in 2 weeks if i run these)

Amalfitano · 06-02-2011, 09:05 AM

by "-1/16" you mean toe out, right? I never remember which is which with +/-

short of getting some serious rubber to slap on those vmr's, nothing quick pops to my mind. If you believe a guy like a terry fair from vorshlag for wheel width to tire width, you want them pretty close. 255's on 9 inch wheels has been pretty good to me. a 245/265 setup would probably work pretty good. If you like the kumho's, you could also take your rear 245's off the stock wheels to use as your fronts for the vmrs. As far as offset, i'm et41 with 255's and a 5mm spacer. et40 with 245's should be good on the shock side and have a bit more fender clearance then me. the 9.5 et45 though is quite a bit different from where i'm at though comparison wise. the apex arc-8's start at et63(or 62?) so we're 18mm different already. 265's would possibly need some fender makeover work, but you could always square up 245's.

biggest difference will be seat time.

next biggest difference would probably be an lsd.

Frampton · 06-02-2011, 12:48 PM

im 1/16" toe in. so not sure if thats negative or postive toe

im looking at a set of breyton gts-r's to replace the vmr's right now so i can run a higher offset and bigger rubber, theres just no way im going to get more rubber with the et45 vmr's and i dont want to do any more fender modification.

im waiting on the lsd until last, i know its going to be the biggest improvement, but its also extremely expensive in comparison to everything else so far

Amalfitano · 06-02-2011, 02:07 PM

Every autocross specific alignment recommendation i've been told has toe out up front and toe in for the back. How much though varies. Bob Tunnell (very re-known e36m3 driver) puts on his website to stick with toe zero up front for high-speed manuever stability.

I went with toe-out, with my thinking being the 1-series is more of a pig and power car than the e36.

Frampton · 06-02-2011, 03:41 PM

I'll have to check the specs again on mine I could be confused. The guy that did the quick alignment was competitive in STU down here with a 135 and set mine up.

Amalfitano · 06-05-2011, 09:37 PM

Autocross @ the Tire Rack, I liked it, I like the car, I finally feel like i can just drive and stop thinking and tinkering too much.

Had some definite return of the ability to plow at the limit, and with the right power application counter-act it. Whether this ended up losing me some absolute grip remains to be seen. TR has a fresh surface, very grippy, so some of it may have been just the fact that it's the best surface i've run on this year, and of course over-driving. But thus far the no rear sway bar has been pretty positive. I still have a smaller sway bar i can swap out to that's still bigger than the stock sway, so i can see what a little less bar does too or even a lot less bar up front does. And i still haven't gotten to the front control arms, or the poly bushing for the tension arms, so maybe i can get the front together without touching anything. Mostly just need to find a little less busy time at work to get to it all (catted downpipes are still waiting too).

04-22-2011, 11:14 AM	#111
verlumpt at apex, on throttle 2 Rep 41 Posts Drives: BMW Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Gretna, NE iTrader: (0)	yes the furthest back in the system cat is the one referenced in the current rules you have to be no more than 6" back of it. Anywhere before that is completely legal, as long as your car stays legal w/ emissions control devices/sensors. __________________
	Appreciate 0 Quote

04-24-2011, 12:20 PM	#113
Amalfitano Second Lieutenant 16 Rep 269 Posts Drives: 2009 135i STEP, Future //M2012 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Chicago iTrader: (1) Garage List 2009 135i [0.00]	BMWCCA - Windy City chapter - Maywood Park - bumpygraveltightugh, with just one quick spin. Felt good just to drive again. I'd critique myself too strongly and say i'm not adapting quickly enough. My first non-spin run was a 52, ended the day with a 48.5, class lead was almost 46 flat (which was a SM build e36 M3), and sure hoosiers versus star specs and yadayadayada, but an str build Z3 got to 47.4. I'm sure i left gobs of time out there, and it was an infuriatingly slow course in spots that then opened up just to clamp down again, but clock don't lie. Jeff and Clark were driving the same course as me, so no excuses. I started 36 psi square cold, then just evened the left/right up front and dropped the rear pressure. At times i was able to be just aggressive enough to point the car perfect, but i still didn't trust it enough to really take advantage of the fast spots. I started twiddling with the knobs for the rear rebound but i was messed up in so many spots, and the surface was so sketchy i don't think i would've tuned my way to jack sh*t. For the corner balance knowledgeable people out there. i don't have scales to check my work, but right now i'm "balanced" with a 52% front. I like the way the front behaves but i just intuitively don't like how high my rear height is set. There is plenty of room between the fender and tire, and i would think that dropping the rear height would help with keeping the rear grip. If my cross weights are balanced (or whatever you call the LF/RR versus RF/LR), would i be eable to evenly drop the rear height on both sides and keep that cross weight balance, or will that drop mess up everything? My guess is it messes up everything with the left side driver weight bias and i would have to ever so slightly drop more on the right side than the left side.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

04-24-2011, 12:41 PM	#114
bradford Major 28 Rep 1,035 Posts Drives: 2008 SGM 135i Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Chicago > * iTrader: (4)	For reference, my corner balance weights were: LF949 RF921 LR859 RR829 Last edited by bradford; 05-10-2011 at 08:28 PM..
	Appreciate 0 Quote

04-25-2011, 12:01 PM	#115
Amalfitano Second Lieutenant 16 Rep 269 Posts Drives: 2009 135i STEP, Future //M2012 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Chicago iTrader: (1) Garage List 2009 135i [0.00]	Here is the STR build z3 versus me. If I have my bearings correctly this should be while going through an offset gate, so no braking. My rear height is just plain off...ugh. And it's my fault. I talked to the guys and left a note about the ride height and how the front could not be dropped any do to tire rubbing, but they may have read that to imply both front and rear... I need to drop some of that rear height, it can't be doing me any rear grip favors.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

04-25-2011, 01:18 PM	#116
Amalfitano Second Lieutenant 16 Rep 269 Posts Drives: 2009 135i STEP, Future //M2012 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Chicago iTrader: (1) Garage List 2009 135i [0.00]	I think my brain got fried over the weekend... I might need to wait til tomorrow to start thinking about car setup...
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-09-2011, 08:50 AM	#118
Amalfitano Second Lieutenant 16 Rep 269 Posts Drives: 2009 135i STEP, Future //M2012 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Chicago iTrader: (1) Garage List 2009 135i [0.00]	What have you guys done for the rear swaybar endlinks? Or otherwise to limit pre-load while lowering the car?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-10-2011, 09:43 AM	#119
Amalfitano Second Lieutenant 16 Rep 269 Posts Drives: 2009 135i STEP, Future //M2012 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Chicago iTrader: (1) Garage List 2009 135i [0.00]	For this event i'm getting experimental... I'm zip-tying the rear sway bar and going sway-less. I'm not sure what to do about the pre-load and I need to drop about 1/2 in, maybe a little more and the bar is already pre-loaded. Any chicago types should consider checking out the Tri-State Spors Car Council event this sunday at Toyota Park, or next weekend at Sears Centre. www.tsscc.org
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-17-2011, 10:15 AM	#121
Amalfitano Second Lieutenant 16 Rep 269 Posts Drives: 2009 135i STEP, Future //M2012 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Chicago iTrader: (1) Garage List 2009 135i [0.00]	Ridiculous Rain day Sunday only proved that I am not smarter than the car's DSC. Traction Control all the way on was much faster for me than trying to thread it myself. I'm still not anticipating the throttle-by-wire well enough. This is part of why a BSP build would be easier since i can't touch boost which knocks out all of the cheap ECU options. I looked at a few of the throttle by wire only options, but I think i'd have the same problem as Terry Fair in his Mustang STX build. Terry had too sensitive of a throttle, so getting the throttle to 25%-50% was practically impossible, the throttle tune was practically WOT right away giving no real control over the midrange. I just want the delay gone, and it feels like there's a dead zone in the pedal. I am definitely struggling to get the right throttle in slower turns.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-17-2011, 08:49 PM	#123
larryn Lieutenant General 2153 Rep 10,176 Posts Drives: '97 332ti, '21 X5 45e, '16 GT4 Join Date: May 2005 Location: Seattle iTrader: (2)	I think he's talking about a sprint booster. Those do not touch the engine tune... only the gas pedal mapping is affected.. Basically it makes the car think you are pressing harder than you actually are. I'm not a fan of them, but some swear by them.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-25-2011, 02:13 PM	#125
Amalfitano Second Lieutenant 16 Rep 269 Posts Drives: 2009 135i STEP, Future //M2012 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Chicago iTrader: (1) Garage List 2009 135i [0.00]	Idiot-proof your work if you can... A thicker rear bar with a too-low (read for autocrossers as ideal), and the bar can rub up against the CV boot. With the stock endlinks it should hold it mostly out of the way, but i wanted to reduce the pre-load but there just isn't the room too. So your options are pre-loaded big bar, machining your end endlinks with a different bar than an M3 bar, i believe there are a few adjustables in the 15mmish range, or go with no-bar. For now, i'm doing no bar, and i might be dropping the front bar size from the hotchkis to the M3 front, but i want to see how the car responds first. I think the first theory that the front on full soft damp with a relatively high rebound in the rear (8 of 12) could do the trick. Also, do any of you have a racerpartswholesale tire gauge? I bought their base model ($20) 0-60PSI last year, and just discovered this past weekend that it's off by 7-8 PSI, though i think it's linear. Has anyone re-calibrated one? I have an e-mail out to them, but i'm not confident i'll get much help for a $20 piece of equipment.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-01-2011, 12:12 PM	#126
RedTRex Digital Cerebrum 18 Rep 408 Posts Drives: 05 330ci ZHP Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Jacksonville, FL iTrader: (4) Garage List 2005 BMW 330ci [0.00]	I have swapped back to stock FSB (kept the Hotchkis end links), haven't run this way yet as I was busy finishing Masters Degree. I am signed up for local June 12 event.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-01-2011, 01:58 PM	#127
Frampton i miss boost 35 Rep 402 Posts Drives: 2009 Mercedes C63 AMG P30 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Austin, TX iTrader: (2) Garage List 2008 135i [10.00]	ok i finally subscribed to this thread and will be jumping in with some of my work so far to see what y'all think... i am also working on an STU build but may decide to move to BSP at some point to play with more power. I take off my COBB tune for the STU runs. i will warn you i am new to autox x and only have a few hundred miles of track experience but I just did my first autox in the STU class 2 weeks ago and am completely hooked. I was about 5-6 seconds off the lead time on a 38-45+ second course for the majority of cars across all of the normal classes. First and second fastest times of the day in STU were from a COBB STI at high 38's. I ran a 44.4 on stock suspension with only an m3 vert fsb on vmr vb3's with 215/245 yokohama sdrives. i had one of the COBB drivers ride with me and his biggest feedback was that i needed to get rid of the understeer and stop being a wimp with the right pedal... I have 3 autox days coming in June and i just installed tckline coilovers and vorshlag camber plates to even try to be competitive. I will also be switching to stock wheels with brand new kumho ecsta xs's in 225/245. I know between upgrading my driving skill with some more events and practice will surely drop my times a lot mixed with the coilovers and camber plates i did last week i should be a bit more competitive. Any recommendation on tire pressure or quick modifications I can do in the next 2 weeks to get even closer? Below is my current setup: TCKLine Double Adjustable Coilovers 350#F/700#R setup soft up front stiff in the rear Vorshlag Camber plates nearly maxed on negative camber -1/16" toe up front Berk Technology Street Muffler and Mid Pipes (Dynoing this afternoon to see if I gain actual power) DCI's (Also dynoing today both stock air box and dci's to compare if there is any real loss/gain with current setup) i know i lost power with the dci's im just confirming again by dynoing the same day M3 Vert FSB Stock 264's wrapped in 225/245 Kumho XS's or VMR VB3 18x8.5ET40/18x9.5ET45 wrapped in 215/245 Yoko S Drives (need new tires before i run in 2 weeks if i run these) __________________ 2009 Mercedes C63 AMG 2008 135i (Sold) Last edited by Frampton; 06-01-2011 at 02:39 PM..*
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-02-2011, 09:05 AM	#128
Amalfitano Second Lieutenant 16 Rep 269 Posts Drives: 2009 135i STEP, Future //M2012 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Chicago iTrader: (1) Garage List 2009 135i [0.00]	by "-1/16" you mean toe out, right? I never remember which is which with +/- short of getting some serious rubber to slap on those vmr's, nothing quick pops to my mind. If you believe a guy like a terry fair from vorshlag for wheel width to tire width, you want them pretty close. 255's on 9 inch wheels has been pretty good to me. a 245/265 setup would probably work pretty good. If you like the kumho's, you could also take your rear 245's off the stock wheels to use as your fronts for the vmrs. As far as offset, i'm et41 with 255's and a 5mm spacer. et40 with 245's should be good on the shock side and have a bit more fender clearance then me. the 9.5 et45 though is quite a bit different from where i'm at though comparison wise. the apex arc-8's start at et63(or 62?) so we're 18mm different already. 265's would possibly need some fender makeover work, but you could always square up 245's. biggest difference will be seat time. next biggest difference would probably be an lsd.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-02-2011, 12:48 PM	#129
Frampton i miss boost 35 Rep 402 Posts Drives: 2009 Mercedes C63 AMG P30 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Austin, TX iTrader: (2) Garage List 2008 135i [10.00]	im 1/16" toe in. so not sure if thats negative or postive toe im looking at a set of breyton gts-r's to replace the vmr's right now so i can run a higher offset and bigger rubber, theres just no way im going to get more rubber with the et45 vmr's and i dont want to do any more fender modification. im waiting on the lsd until last, i know its going to be the biggest improvement, but its also extremely expensive in comparison to everything else so far __________________ 2009 Mercedes C63 AMG 2008 135i (Sold)
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-02-2011, 02:07 PM	#130
Amalfitano Second Lieutenant 16 Rep 269 Posts Drives: 2009 135i STEP, Future //M2012 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Chicago iTrader: (1) Garage List 2009 135i [0.00]	Every autocross specific alignment recommendation i've been told has toe out up front and toe in for the back. How much though varies. Bob Tunnell (very re-known e36m3 driver) puts on his website to stick with toe zero up front for high-speed manuever stability. I went with toe-out, with my thinking being the 1-series is more of a pig and power car than the e36.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-02-2011, 03:41 PM	#131
Frampton i miss boost 35 Rep 402 Posts Drives: 2009 Mercedes C63 AMG P30 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Austin, TX iTrader: (2) Garage List 2008 135i [10.00]	I'll have to check the specs again on mine I could be confused. The guy that did the quick alignment was competitive in STU down here with a 135 and set mine up. __________________ 2009 Mercedes C63 AMG 2008 135i (Sold)
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-05-2011, 09:37 PM	#132
Amalfitano Second Lieutenant 16 Rep 269 Posts Drives: 2009 135i STEP, Future //M2012 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Chicago iTrader: (1) Garage List 2009 135i [0.00]	Autocross @ the Tire Rack, I liked it, I like the car, I finally feel like i can just drive and stop thinking and tinkering too much. Had some definite return of the ability to plow at the limit, and with the right power application counter-act it. Whether this ended up losing me some absolute grip remains to be seen. TR has a fresh surface, very grippy, so some of it may have been just the fact that it's the best surface i've run on this year, and of course over-driving. But thus far the no rear sway bar has been pretty positive. I still have a smaller sway bar i can swap out to that's still bigger than the stock sway, so i can see what a little less bar does too or even a lot less bar up front does. And i still haven't gotten to the front control arms, or the poly bushing for the tension arms, so maybe i can get the front together without touching anything. Mostly just need to find a little less busy time at work to get to it all (catted downpipes are still waiting too).
	Appreciate 0 Quote