froop's AW 135i Build Thread

[Fidiman]

Originally Posted by froop

Just ordered a set of the Turner Motorsport solid Aluminium rear subframe bushings. They'll be replacing M3 rear subframe bushings that are already in there.



I've done a bit of research and it appears that replacing the rear subframe bushings with solid ones doesn't affect NVH too much as long as I keep the diff bushings stock. The new M3/4 as well as the current M5 also use a solid subframe bolted directly to the chassis without any bushings.

The reason why I want to change the bushings is to reduce the risk of wheel hop on hard launches. I've looked at the DEFIV diff lockdown kit but it's quite expensive and has more risk of introducing a lot more NVH.

All of the M3 parts have finally landed in Sydney. I'm waiting for clearance through customs and quarantine and once it's all done it'll be sent to Advan to inspect and install. I hope to have it all installed within another month or two.

I know it's an important up, but did you use a press to fit them in the rear subframe ? I'm considering a new solution after my Powerflex inserts ...

Thanks

[froop]

Originally Posted by Fidiman

I know it's an important up, but did you use a press to fit them in the rear subframe ? I'm considering a new solution after my Powerflex inserts ...

Thanks

I tried to use a bushing screw in tool and that was next to impossible so we used a press to get them in. I believe we had to use like 15 tonnes of force to get it in. Almost maxed out the press. I was holding it in place whilst the mechanic was jumping up and down to get his full weight on the lever. They don't go in easy lol.

[PeteA]

Alex should have put bushings in the freezer and heated up the subframe hole with a heat gun. Should go in with an impact gun np that way. Just have to work fast.

[AZE82]

Originally Posted by froop

Awwwwww shit!

love it...please excuse me while I get some help getting my jaw off the ground. Impeccable taste, dude.

[froop]

Originally Posted by PeteA

Alex should have put bushings in the freezer and heated up the subframe hole with a heat gun. Should go in with an impact gun np that way. Just have to work fast.

Haha yeah nah we didn't realise it would be such a tight fit. I purchased M ones for the M subframe but I guess they were maybe made slightly too big. I do seem to recall my mechanic saying that he had to shave a few thousands off and even then we still had some problems getting it in. Either way, it's in now and never coming out lol.

Originally Posted by AZE82

love it...please excuse me while I get some help getting my jaw off the ground. Impeccable taste, dude.

Haha thanks! I really should get underneath the car and clean it every now and then but I just been way too lazy...

[dtkw969]

Hey! I noticed you have a berk street with a custom butterfly flap. Could you elaborate a little on that?

Great build and thanks for info!

[froop]

Originally Posted by dtkw969

Hey! I noticed you have a berk street with a custom butterfly flap. Could you elaborate a little on that?

Great build and thanks for info!

Hey,

I actually purchased it like that. The previous owner had had a y pipe installed just after the midpipe to axleback connection with a butterfly valve and a 90 degree directional outlet. I spent like 5-6 hours wiring it up to the battery into a rocker switch near the centre console etc and just my luck, the motor died after like 1 use. I now to try and source a replacement motor and if I can't get it to work I'll need to buy a new valve from somewhere.

When it was working though, the volume increases by probably 2-3 fold during all driving conditions, from idle, to cruising to acceleration. I didn't get it go WOT with it open but it basically sounds almost exactly the same as the Berk Street only 2-3 times louder. I have 1M midpipes in the car currently with cats. Once I get my turbos fixed I'll put the CP-e mids back on and get this valve work in and see what it sounds like. Happy to take videos once I get it all working but it probably won't be for a while.

[totti84]

If you end up finding a replacement valve/kit, please let me know as I'm happy to start a group buy to keep costs down for us Aussies

[froop]

Originally Posted by totti84

If you end up finding a replacement valve/kit, please let me know as I'm happy to start a group buy to keep costs down for us Aussies

I have all the gearing and everything, it's just the motor that's burnt out. I'm going to try and go to jaycar and pick up a $5 electric motor and see if I can't get it to work first. Beats paying $100-200 for a new valve... If all that fails I'll let you know haha.

[dtkw969]

Are the 1m mids different from our 135 ones?

[froop]

Originally Posted by dtkw969

Are the 1m mids different from our 135 ones?

They are visually exactly the same. The only difference is that the box resonator is a fake. Straight piping through the box with no baffling and no packing.

[dtkw969]

I see, no wonder they sound so aggressive.

I've tried reading your other threads and can't help but wonder if you ever got down to doing the 1m steering rack swap?

[Gray_Panther]

This is a true build thread!!!!
None of that:
<insert name here> build thread where i add carbon fiber rear spoiler, coilovers, wheels and blacklines. Sometimes we will get lucky and they will throw in a bmwp shift knob! Hahaha

Awesome car!! Would definitely drive up to give you two thumbs up.

[froop]

Originally Posted by dtkw969

I see, no wonder they sound so aggressive.

I've tried reading your other threads and can't help but wonder if you ever got down to doing the 1m steering rack swap?

Yeah, someone actually opened one up and had a look inside. Also, if you tap on the outside you can also tell, because the 1M one just sounds hollow.

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

This is a true build thread!!!!
None of that:
<insert name here> build thread where i add carbon fiber rear spoiler, coilovers, wheels and blacklines. Sometimes we will get lucky and they will throw in a bmwp shift knob! Hahaha

Awesome car!! Would definitely drive up to give you two thumbs up.

Haha thanks Gray_Panther!

I actually haven't updated this thread in a while. I think because I've been waiting for money to rebuild my turbos, install VTT intakes and retune.

Then there's so much more I want to do to this car but so little money

[froop]

Ahhh, that's what I've forgotten to update.

Due to my stock OEM clutch slipping, I upgraded to a PTF twin plate clutch with a steel SMFW. I also got a B3121 battery with the HPA bracket and Flow Designs HDPE front and side splitters.

Here are a couple photos of the front lip and side skirt. Thanks Quang 1MOz for the first picture.

To install the side splitters I had to pull off the side skirts and to install the front lip was just done by lifting the front of the car and using some self tapping screws. They're not the nicest looking things, but it does the job of making the car look a little lower and slightly more aggressive.

[MrBlonde]

Looks bitchen Alex!

[BMW86]

Originally Posted by MrBlonde

Looks bitchen Alex!

Kenny you alive mate?

[froop]

Originally Posted by MrBlonde

Looks bitchen Alex!

Hahaha thanks Kenny! Can't believe you still check these forums after all this time.

[chrisN]

bump for looking extra good froop

[Tease135i]

Good day. I am new to this thread and have just purchased a 2008 135i last week. I would like to know how you removed the rear parcel shelf please.

[froop]

Originally Posted by Tease135i

Good day. I am new to this thread and have just purchased a 2008 135i last week. I would like to know how you removed the rear parcel shelf please.

Hey, you need to remove the C pillars, the rear side bolsters, the seat belt reels and then the child seat anchors from memory.

[Tease135i]

Thank you. Any chance of some pictures and a more detailed description please. I wouldn't know where to start.