What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[carscatscoffee15]

I couldn't resist

[kaputt]

Driven the Michelin AS3+’s a little more. The shop had the tire pressures sitting pretty high (about 5 PSI high front and rear). I think that’s why just in a quick drive around town, in mostly straight lines, it made the performance suspension feel better. The higher pressure firmed up the tires enough to make the suspension that was designed for run flats work better. However, the steering effort felt weird so I lowered the pressure down closer to what’s on the door jamb.

Steering feels better now, but the floaty suspension feeling is back.

I probably need to just ditch the performance suspension, but I’m curious, what do some of you run for tire pressures on non-run flats?

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by kaputt

Driven the Michelin AS3+'s a little more. The shop had the tire pressures sitting pretty high (about 5 PSI high front and rear). I think that's why just in a quick drive around town, in mostly straight lines, it made the performance suspension feel better. The higher pressure firmed up the tires enough to make the suspension that was designed for run flats work better. However, the steering effort felt weird so I lowered the pressure down closer to what's on the door jamb.

Steering feels better now, but the floaty suspension feeling is back.

I probably need to just ditch the performance suspension, but I'm curious, what do some of you run for tire pressures on non-run flats?

I can't remember what it said on the door sticker of my 1er but I'm pretty sure I put 36 PSI all around, and the tires were Michelin PS4S.

[Skotcoop]

Originally Posted by jphanna

Attachment 2298996

?? 18/19?

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by kaputt

Driven the Michelin AS3+’s a little more. The shop had the tire pressures sitting pretty high (about 5 PSI high front and rear). I think that’s why just in a quick drive around town, in mostly straight lines, it made the performance suspension feel better. The higher pressure firmed up the tires enough to make the suspension that was designed for run flats work better. However, the steering effort felt weird so I lowered the pressure down closer to what’s on the door jamb.

Steering feels better now, but the floaty suspension feeling is back.

I probably need to just ditch the performance suspension, but I’m curious, what do some of you run for tire pressures on non-run flats?

36f/39r

I lower the rear if traction is poor, and raise them all around to 39/42 for undisclosed speed rapid travel on the interstate.

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by carscatscoffee15

I couldn't resist

Let us know your opinion on it when you install it!

[low135]

Got these in yesterday. Very very happy with the build quality and customer service. Less than 3 weeks from deposit to delivery which is crazy for the custom forged wheel industry. AAP Forged is a small newer company based out of LA and they were great to deal with. Updates through the whole process and very accommodating to any questions concerns, and changes I wanted to make.

19x9.5/10.5 with 0 offsets
Brushed and cleared face, polished lips, gloss black hardware and center cap inlay, satin black barrels

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by low135

Got these in yesterday. Very very happy with the build quality and customer service. Less than 3 weeks from deposit to delivery which is crazy for the custom forged wheel industry. AAP Forged is a small newer company based out of LA and they were great to deal with. Updates through the whole process and very accommodating to any questions concerns, and changes I wanted to make.

19x9.5/10.5 with 0 offsets
Brushed and cleared face, polished lips, gloss black hardware and center cap inlay, satin black barrels

Your car needs to be in a museum with the amount of work and detail you have put in it!

It's an eye catcher that's for sure. Nice!

[Jeb_]

Originally Posted by kaputt

I probably need to just ditch the performance suspension, but I’m curious, what do some of you run for tire pressures on non-run flats?

I run 35-36 psi at both ends normally on base suspension. I didn't notice too much of an increase in floatiness when going from run flats to non run flats but I'm running running 18-35-255 RE-71rs.

For autocross I have to bump the fronts up to 37 or 38 psi to stop the sidewall from rolling over. But I think that's mostly just because I have 255s on a 8.5" wheel. I need to get 9" wide wheels.

[kaputt]

Originally Posted by Jeb_

I run 35-36 psi at both ends normally on base suspension. I didn't notice too much of an increase in floatiness when going from run flats to non run flats but I'm running running 18-35-255 RE-71rs.

For autocross I have to bump the fronts up to 37 or 38 psi to stop the sidewall from rolling over. But I think that's mostly just because I have 255s on a 8.5" wheel. I need to get 9" wide wheels.

Yeah so I’m on the stock 17” wheels and have 205/50/17 at the front and 225/45/17 at the rear. Door jamb says 32 front 35 rear for under 100mph. I think it’s 36 and 39 psi for over 100mph.

Right now I have them set at 32.5 front and 35.5 rear.

[kaputt]

I’m going to try 35 front and 38 rear and see if that feels like a nice middle ground.

[carscatscoffee15]

Originally Posted by craig01

Installed OEM Black Line tails, as one does.

welcome to the #BlacklinesClub

[carscatscoffee15]

Originally Posted by Rmtt

Let us know your opinion on it when you install it!

oooo you already know brotha

there will be dyno sheets as well. I only have a stock baseline dyno before I did any of the performance work but it will be good to see what the difference is with my set up now vs my set up now minus my secondaries

will keep OEM resonator

[minirips2]

I decided to upgrade my shifter. I went with the Dinan SSK, UUC DSSR and transmission mounts, ECS Tuning shift arm bushings, and put a new BMW shift rod coupler in. It was quite a PITA to get the coupler in, but I finally got it. Everything else went pretty smoothly, until I backed off the ramps. The shifter was jumping around because the DSSR was hitting the guibo. So the BMW shift rod went back in. No issues after that.
The Dinan shifter is indeed short. I mean, very short. The effort is quite high also. I'll get used to it. There is a very satisfying clink sound when the gear engages. I'm not sure it's worth the money and effort. There is noticeably more noise in the cabin and vibration in the shift lever as well. I think more miles may smooth the shift feel out a bit. I hope so!

[Jordan's World]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

By custom, I was thinking like blacked-out housings, different halos, etc. Pretty extensive modification.

Unfortunately for us 1'er owners, no one, at least as far as I've seen, makes just replacement lenses for our cars. Real shame, because every high mile 1'er that's spent time parked outdoors needs new lenses, they just don't age well. They do for the 3-series, which is annoying.

Having poverty-spec halogen lights in my car is nice because replacing the whole light is very cheap, but that doesn't help you with bi-xenon lights.

I think you could probably find two good condition used headlights without ballasts or bulbs for $400-$600. Make sure you check the seal on the back cover when you get them, the cover can get pinched if the bulbs are changed and that lets moisture in which can ruin the motors and ballasts.

I've been doing some research, and am leaning towards the Vision System W/ LED Eye-brow from Rush. In addition, I am going to do blacked out housings if I end up going this route. I am getting up there in price though, I wonder if it would be smarter to go with some aftermarket lamps at this point. Considering the lenses aren't perfect, I would hate to have all this work done and not be happy with the result. I do like these projectors from Anzo. I can't find too much online about them though:

https://hhsales.com/i-31134181-anzo-...et-w-halo.html

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by Jordan's World

I've been doing some research, and am leaning towards the Vision System W/ LED Eye-brow from Rush. In addition, I am going to do blacked out housings if I end up going this route. I am getting up there in price though, I wonder if it would be smarter to go with some aftermarket lamps at this point. Considering the lenses aren't perfect, I would hate to have all this work done and not be happy with the result. I do like these projectors from Anzo. I can't find too much online about them though:

https://hhsales.com/i-31134181-anzo-...et-w-halo.html

Hey Jordan.......I had the halogens and got the Depo V2's from a user called fishcakes on the auction site. They weren't expensive, easy to swap, and I haven't had any issue with them. I have a thread on them in the cosmetic section. Here is a quick pic of one side I snapped while I was doing some tuning.

[wantmymoneyincash]

Originally Posted by minirips2

I decided to upgrade my shifter. I went with the Dinan SSK, UUC DSSR and transmission mounts, ECS Tuning shift arm bushings, and put a new BMW shift rod coupler in. It was quite a PITA to get the coupler in, but I finally got it. Everything else went pretty smoothly, until I backed off the ramps. The shifter was jumping around because the DSSR was hitting the guibo. So the BMW shift rod went back in. No issues after that.
The Dinan shifter is indeed short. I mean, very short. The effort is quite high also. I'll get used to it. There is a very satisfying clink sound when the gear engages. I'm not sure it's worth the money and effort. There is noticeably more noise in the cabin and vibration in the shift lever as well. I think more miles may smooth the shift feel out a bit. I hope so!

Originally Posted by minirips2

I decided to upgrade my shifter. I went with the Dinan SSK, UUC DSSR and transmission mounts, ECS Tuning shift arm bushings, and put a new BMW shift rod coupler in. It was quite a PITA to get the coupler in, but I finally got it. Everything else went pretty smoothly, until I backed off the ramps. The shifter was jumping around because the DSSR was hitting the guibo. So the BMW shift rod went back in. No issues after that.
The Dinan shifter is indeed short. I mean, very short. The effort is quite high also. I'll get used to it. There is a very satisfying clink sound when the gear engages. I'm not sure it's worth the money and effort. There is noticeably more noise in the cabin and vibration in the shift lever as well. I think more miles may smooth the shift feel out a bit. I hope so!

looking to do the uuc ssk with the dssr but this makes me nervous! are you sure you purchased the correct dssr? I've heard it does increase nvh especially if you go with new mounts or bushings. interested to see your review in 500-1000 miles

[minirips2]

I believe I ordered the correct one. it is DSSR177-B. That would be a different one from what a 135i would use. The 135i uses a ZF manual trans, while the 128i uses a Getrag unit. The Dinan shifter is obviously not designed and tested by UUC, so I wouldn't worry about using the DSSR with the UUC shifter. I think you'll be fine.
One thing I did not do because I couldn't get one in time was to install the Turner polyurethane rear shifter arm bushing. You will be shocked at how flimsy the stock one is. It's a little hard to get to, because the exhaust heat shield is in the way, but if you want to get rid of slop, that stock bushing has to go.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by wantmymoneyincash

looking to do the uuc ssk with the dssr but this makes me nervous! are you sure you purchased the correct dssr? I've heard it does increase nvh especially if you go with new mounts or bushings. interested to see your review in 500-1000 miles

Do the AKG DTM selector rod. Very very nice product, fit perfectly, no issues at all. I haven't seen any horror stories about AKG, unlike UUC both with regards to customer service and with the quality and fitment of products. I did it about 1000 miles ago and the shifter feels just as taught as the day I installed it. I have it combined with the BMW Performance SSK lever and the shifter support arm bushings from ECS/Turner.

[Jordan's World]

Originally Posted by Rmtt

Hey Jordan.......I had the halogens and got the Depo V2's from a user called fishcakes on the auction site. They weren't expensive, easy to swap, and I haven't had any issue with them. I have a thread on them in the cosmetic section. Here is a quick pic of one side I snapped while I was doing some tuning.

Todd, I really like those on your car. I love the way these look without the white eyebrow and smoked side markers. I checked out the Depo's on eBay and scrolled down to the fitment section, it appears they only work with halogen equipped cars, which SUCK! Every pair of aftermarket E82 headlights I find are for halogens. I've been using Google's shopping feature to search all suppliers and have come to the conclusion the only option for xenon equipped cars are direct OEM replacements - $500 apiece (which I won't be doing).

I think the only way to go is doing some LED rings like chris_flies mentioned and maybe attempting to clean up my current lenses somehow.

I wish I could swing it, but Bayoptics appears to be the only one offering an Aftermarket option. And even then it sounds like they reuse your existing lens unless you buy new ones. They are also $1,100...

https://bayoptiks.com/collections/e8...eadlights-only

Oh well, I think I'm going to just order some 6k rings and black out the eyebrow and call it a day.

[tjswarbrick]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

36f/39r

I lower the rear if traction is poor, and raise them all around to 39/42 for undisclosed speed rapid travel on the interstate.

This

[wantmymoneyincash]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Do the AKG DTM selector rod. Very very nice product, fit perfectly, no issues at all. I haven't seen any horror stories about AKG, unlike UUC both with regards to customer service and with the quality and fitment of products. I did it about 1000 miles ago and the shifter feels just as taught as the day I installed it. I have it combined with the BMW Performance SSK lever and the shifter support arm bushings from ECS/Turner.

Thanks ill look into this. Heard it takes some modifying to get into place. Did you experience this or just plug and play? support arm bushings worth it?