What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[Papa Popov]

Originally Posted by desertman123

Finally got my hands on a set of Euro Xenon headlights. Pretty sure they're non-adaptive, but still auto-leveling.

I still need to do some more of the supporting stuff before I install these - I have the rear leveling sensor installed and wire ran, but I need to do that for the front. Then splice all the wires in and run them to the FRM. Already got and installed an FRM3 though.



Will look MUCH better than the Depo V2s I've had for a few years. Surprisingly they still function 100%, but it's been nonstop issues. Clearcoat fading, water/moisture intrusion, broken clamps to keep the rear cap on. The ballast/error canceller kit also sucks lol but that's separate from the headlight housings.

What prompted the upgrade besides the issues with the DEPOs? Seems like a whole lotta work to retrofit OEM Xenons.

Been running DEPOs w/ Morimoto LEDs for about 6 months now and I've been pretty happy with them, minus one of my high beams not working (should probably file a warranty claim, lmao). They look 10000x better than my stock halogens and I don't feel guilty running LEDs since they have projectors. I just coded out the errors and its been pretty smooth sailing (knock on wood).

[Almuliman]

Originally Posted by Papa Popov

Whiteline RSFB inserts went in. Doing that job on ramps is in the running for the worst idea I've ever had.

Vs. having a lift or just more room in general? I'm thinking I'll be doing the same come spring, so any tips and tricks you can share will be welcome (I have at least a couple of threads bookmarked already).

[Papa Popov]

Originally Posted by Almuliman

Vs. having a lift or just more room in general? I'm thinking I'll be doing the same come spring, so any tips and tricks you can share will be welcome (I have at least a couple of threads bookmarked already).

Space gets pretty tight when you're working on the fronts with the car on ramps, especially on the drivers side since the diff offset towards that side. I also think that having the car level would've given the subframe more room to droop since I seemed to have even less space to work with than what people in other threads had.

Tips I can think of:

-All of the inserts have part numbers on the inside. They all go in with the part numbers facing the front of the car
-If you find yourself not being able to the get the rear bolts to thread back in (my jack was just a hair too short), remove the giant washer then thread the bolt back in as far as you can. This will raise the frame just enough for you to be able to get the other side's bolt in with the washer on it. Tighten that side up, then remove the bolt without the washer and reinstall it with the washer.
-Remove the front plastic (3 8s) blocking the brace that connects to the front, then pull the bolts out of the brace entirely (2 16s).
-I had to remove the rear bolt on whichever side I was working on to be able to get the front upper in. I lowered my jack to remove load from the diff but kept it on the surface of it JIC cause having the subframe dangling by one bolt sketched me out
-There are extra braces on our cars that the E90s don't have. They run from where the front bolt connects towards the front of the car. You'll have to leverage them down enough to slip the front lower in without it slipping onto the "nub" on the brace. If the insert slides onto this "nub" and you let the brace back up the insert won't align properly.
-The front uppers have to be wrangled under the thread for the bolt. Just jam em under it, then you'll be able to rotate them into alignment.
-The torque spec I found for the subframe bolts is 84 ft/lbs. I hit the brace bolts with the ol' gutentight.

The job isn't bad just annoying. Based off of my short test drive it is well worth it. I had these things laying around for a year and regret not installing them sooner. I do kinda regret not going with the 034 aluminum inserts though.

[Almuliman]

Much appreciated. I'm stashing this with my other notes for when I actually get to it.

From what I've read (and it was on the internetz, so it must be true), the aluminum inserts transmit a lot more NVH for not much on-road gain. Worth it for frequent tracking, but not for a street car. I feel like I'm past the point in my life where I don't mind a ton of NVH and I don't track my car, so that's making me think aluminum inserts are too much for me.

[desertman123]

Originally Posted by Papa Popov

What prompted the upgrade besides the issues with the DEPOs? Seems like a whole lotta work to retrofit OEM Xenons.

Been running DEPOs w/ Morimoto LEDs for about 6 months now and I've been pretty happy with them, minus one of my high beams not working (should probably file a warranty claim, lmao). They look 10000x better than my stock halogens and I don't feel guilty running LEDs since they have projectors. I just coded out the errors and its been pretty smooth sailing (knock on wood).

It's not just the DEPOs themselves. Like I had mentioned, my ballast/bulb/canceller kit is also garbage. If I'm at operating temp and I stop at a drive thru, by the time I get my food the ballasts will have overheated and shut down. I literally have to drive forward, letting some air into the engine compartment, in order for them to turn back on. Then the light output is still quite dim. I solve this by just turning the lights off if I'll be sitting still for 5+ minutes. After *all* these issues stacked on top of each other, I just wanted to get rid of the entire system. I think I've had the headlights for about 4 years now.

Your LED kit may be a way better idea than some of these aftermarket HID ballasts lol

I love how the DEPOs look - it's just a Euro clear corner light. You can find the non-adaptive lights overseas for surprisingly cheap. As in, buy the pair for less than what people sell 1 adaptive US-market light for on Ebay. They'll get you on shipping, but it's still less than a pair of US ones - and with those I would still have to do the entire retrofit (FRM3, leveling sensors, etc.)

Plus I'm not intimidated by large projects, or wiring, anymore. I have a Honda Beat I'm reconstructing part of the rockers on (rust) and rebuilding the motor.


Psst... get some wax or a coating on those DEPOs! I may be an anomaly since I'm under the FL sun, but anything helps, and aftermarket lights are prone to fading clearcoat.

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by Papa Popov

Whiteline RSFB inserts went in. Doing that job on ramps is in the running for the worst idea I've ever had.

I did my full Whiteline 2-piece replacement bushings on jack stands in my driveway. (supposed to be read as a "back in my day..." stop complaining tone of voice lol) but I get it.

I've been putting off replacing my one front lower control arm and sway bar endlink for a couple weeks now because my body feels the rolling around on the ground a bit more these days. Just got to suck it up I guess.

[twinturbovan]

Installed the Nexys B58 Ignition Coil System Conversion Kit whiched removed all my misfires!

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by Esteban

They are rare. I think the 135is is more rare. Haven't seen one of those in person either.

Guess I don't get out enough. lol

Even more rare is the Canadian version.

[Almuliman]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Even more rare is the Canadian version.

Four Valencia Orange 1Ms at the annual M Car Day at Griot's in Tacoma, WA this weekend. And a (very) orange M1.

Didnt check if any of them were Canadian

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Even more rare is the Canadian version.

Or the Lifestyle Edition.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by dtla1

Or the Lifestyle Edition.

Ya, in three years at the dealer, have only seen two.

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by dtla1

Or the Lifestyle Edition.

Never liked those wheels. I know a lot of people do but they always looked a little 'off' to me. Guess I just don't like that offset look. Must be too much 313 influence.

[odiford]

Haven't posted here much lately as I picked up an '82 Porsche 931 that has consumed most of my wrenching time.

However, I recently installed M3 arms and Dinan camber plates (max camber -2.3). Everyone on here talks about this making so much of a difference that I assumed some of it was overhyped - I was wrong! What a great upgrade. I also did two sets of brake pads in the last week as I burned up a fresh set of rears in a single day at the track. DTC will be turned off from now on...

I threw in a set of Bilstein B4 sports over the summer but kept the stock MSport springs. Considering a slight drop/stiffening now - any suggestions for springs? H&R? Eibach?

[Almuliman]

Replaced some very black, dirty, and smelly presumably original (74K miles) transmission fluid with nice new Redline 70W 75W MT-LV GL-4. Instantly better. No idea what was in it before and it was a bit overfilled, but it now shifts much more easily when cold and feel more precise and mechanical altogether.

[fotontom]

Replaced the headlight switch to enable the rear fog lamps. Easy swap, if you are doing it be certain to get the right switch (there are something like 8 of them, depending on your light configuration). At the same time I swapped in the Euro air box. No noticeable power increase, but it really does seem to have a sharper throttle response and is also smoother across the power band.

[Gangplank]

Not today but a week or so back had a DCT fluid drain and fill. They used 4 liters of Motul DTCF. Hadn't thought about it at the time but this seems to mean I now have a mix of Potension & Motul DCTF in the car. They didn't change the side filter but in talking to the shop and reading online the side filters are rarely very dirty for daily driver duties.

Car shifts much smoother after the drain and fill. No problems so far after about 650 miles.

I'll probably get it done again in a year or two and do the filter that time.

[lowE88]

Seat brackets came in today and made the perfect birthday present. Still need to do some adjusting and get the belt recepticles in but I love how they look with the new wrap. Some more of the wrinkles will come out with sitting in them. Can't wait to see more of the interior done in cinnamon to match



also not sure why these pictures look terrible lol

[Afam28]

https://datazap.me/u/afam2984/mhd-e5...&data=2-21

Can someone tell me how my car is doing from these logs?(2 logs)

MHD OTS E50(E85R)

[jsigone]

bought one.. a 12' DCT. First night of ownership I stripped washed it, clay bar and waxed. Shined up good

[1and1]

Congrats on the new to you, looks great!

[..Rush..]

How was your experience dealing with Carvana?

Originally Posted by jsigone

bought one.. a 12' DCT. First night of ownership I stripped washed it, clay bar and waxed. Shined up good

[jsigone]

Originally Posted by ..Rush..

How was your experience dealing with Carvana?

I enjoyed the process, family enjoyed the vending machine process (2 kids got to drop the coin). I've been looking for a while and one popped up in the color and DCT I wanted, put $100 to hold it as they just used stock marketing photos until the car went through service and inspection. That inspection process took 3 weeks. Mileage was higher than I'd like at 86k but it's a local San Diego car with good carfax service history for 8 of the 9 yrs. The last owner only drove it 7k miles since. I was also looking for other 135i while carvana did it's thing. Found a 12' with half the mile and $6k more at another dealership, but it was modded already, tuned, black paint with some buffing hot spots, and warped rotors. I didn't want to deal w/ the headaches of hand me downs.

Downside, there was some front bumper transport damage from inspection location to the Orange County location. They will pay to fix it but just really annoying since the car paint was mostly flawless after I clay bar'd it. Belt tensioner caused the belt to squeak the first day I drove it, hasn't done it again. But I have appointment to local BMW Friday to have it checked and replaced with the carvana 100day warranty.