All COBB Tuning AccessPORT for 135i Discussion Here

[Ski Killset]

Originally Posted by aloksatoor

Quick clarification, how to switch from stock to linear throttle? I have an N55 98G0B running with 91 Chevron.

The maps are listed as LT or ST just pick the one you want.

[dcaron9999]

Weirdest thing happened to me on the track yesterday evening. Been tracking my N55-based 135i for three summers now. Started with OTS Cobb maps, then gradually went to FBO, and custom tune by PTF.

Bought the car with 48,000Kms in June 2013. Car now has 73,000Kms as of June 2015. Car is dual duty with a 70% track to 30% street ratio ...

I brought the car to the track a few days this year so far, and Ive had good results, and not a sign of overheating. I installed BMS Oil TSTAT bypass a while ago.

I got my first limp mode ever on a relatively cool evening yesterday, and I had to abort my lapping session, with a student onboard. Oil temp was low, twno notches below middle mark. When I came into the pit area, my N55 engine felt like it was running on 3 cylinders, and car was shaking. Took my Cobb out and read the fault codes. Turned the engine off and on again, and all was OK. Did not hit the track but headed home.

Here are my FBO mods: ER FMIC, ER CP, N54tuning catless DP.

Here are the OBD codes that were picked up by the Cobb AP3, and my quick descriptions (did a few searches to find these):

P2CF4 : Fault - O2 sensor before catalytic converter, slow response. Had this before, cleared it, and doesn't seem like a show stopper, and probably gets cleared by the Cobb automatically ...
P2EFE : Electric Cooling Fan related ...
P2F03 : Intake Air related ...
P2EE0 : Engine Coolant Temp sensor signal ...
P2EF1 : ???
P2EFF : Electric Fans, self-diagnosis...
P2EE4 : Coolant Temp sensor not plausible ...

What I did so far: I removed and cleaned the electric fan connector, which did not seem dirty, corroded, or loose.

Looks like the fan stopped turning momentarily, triggering all of these codes, and overheating protection kicked in. Coolant temp must have been high, even though oil temp was low...

Any pointers or feedback would be greatly appreciated?

[jake1220]

Originally Posted by dcaron9999

Weirdest thing happened to me on the track yesterday evening. Been tracking my N55-based 135i for three summers now. Started with OTS Cobb maps, then gradually went to FBO, and custom tune by PTF.

Bought the car with 48,000Kms in June 2013. Car now has 73,000Kms as of June 2015. Car is dual duty with a 70% track to 30% street ratio ...

I brought the car to the track a few days this year so far, and Ive had good results, and not a sign of overheating. I installed BMS Oil TSTAT bypass a while ago.

I got my first limp mode ever on a relatively cool evening yesterday, and I had to abort my lapping session, with a student onboard. Oil temp was low, twno notches below middle mark. When I came into the pit area, my N55 engine felt like it was running on 3 cylinders, and car was shaking. Took my Cobb out and read the fault codes. Turned the engine off and on again, and all was OK. Did not hit the track but headed home.

Here are my FBO mods: ER FMIC, ER CP, N54tuning catless DP.

Here are the OBD codes that were picked up by the Cobb AP3, and my quick descriptions (did a few searches to find these):

P2CF4 : Fault - O2 sensor before catalytic converter, slow response. Had this before, cleared it, and doesn't seem like a show stopper, and probably gets cleared by the Cobb automatically ...
P2EFE : Electric Cooling Fan related ...
P2F03 : Intake Air related ...
P2EE0 : Engine Coolant Temp sensor signal ...
P2EF1 : ???
P2EFF : Electric Fans, self-diagnosis...
P2EE4 : Coolant Temp sensor not plausible ...

What I did so far: I removed and cleaned the electric fan connector, which did not seem dirty, corroded, or loose.

Looks like the fan stopped turning momentarily, triggering all of these codes, and overheating protection kicked in. Coolant temp must have been high, even though oil temp was low...

Any pointers or feedback would be greatly appreciated?

Looked up some of the those codes.

2EFE : Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
2F03 : Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
2EE0 : Combustion misfiring, several cylinders: Fuel injection deactivation
2EF1 : Combustion misfiring, cylinder 5: Fuel injection deactivation
2EFF : Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
2EE4 : Combustion misfiring, cylinder 1: Fuel injection deactivation

I have attached the file I used to look these up. The Cobb AP's description are often incorrect. Hope this helps.

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by jake1220

Looked up some of the those codes.

2EFE : Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
2F03 : Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
2EE0 : Combustion misfiring, several cylinders: Fuel injection deactivation
2EF1 : Combustion misfiring, cylinder 5: Fuel injection deactivation
2EFF : Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
2EE4 : Combustion misfiring, cylinder 1: Fuel injection deactivation

I have attached the file I used to look these up. The Cobb AP's description are often incorrect. Hope this helps.

Jake! You're the man!

Wow, how the Cobb AP3 can be so off so track amazes me...

Looks like I will start with the spark plug replacement. They are probably shot as my N55 has been tuned for most of its life, and driven hard ...

[wjk_glynn]

Originally Posted by jake1220

I have attached the file I used to look these up...

Very interesting. Where did you find it? Because I'd like to see the version for the N54.

Thanks.

Karl.

[jake1220]

Originally Posted by wjk_glynn

Very interesting. Where did you find it? Because I'd like to see the version for the N54.

Thanks.

Karl.

Someone had posted it here awhile ago. I'm sure you can find one somewhere

[gkmunch]

edit: answered!

[jake1220]

You should look at some logs. Boost will spike for a split second sometimes when you let off the gas. I'm sure it's not hitting 17 while you're running through the gears.

[gkmunch]

Originally Posted by jake1220

You should look at some logs. Boost will spike for a split second sometimes when you let off the gas. I'm sure it's not hitting 17 while you're running through the gears.

Great call. I'll log a few pulls and post up here, thanks!

[dcaron9999]

I was driving my Cobb/PTFtuned 2011 135i car on the track with a student onboard yesterday evening, and suddenly ended up with a loss of power, and throttle response. Engine did not run rough or anything, but lacked the normal pedal reaction, as if I lacked half the power.

I came back into the pit area, and let my engine+turbo cool down run at idle for 5 mins or so, as I allways do. Suddenly got the red engine coolant light on my dashboard.

I bought my 2011 135i used at 48,000Kms, now have 74,000Kms, and have been running the car hard on the track for the last thre years.

My Cobb Accessport is not the best for code reading and code descriptions, but revealed an OBD code of P31E9. I could not find this code on the N55 DTC code PDF document posted in this thread.

After the car cooled down, no codes or DTC light showed up on the dashboard, I drove home fine but again had serious lack of power, and pedal response, but strangely, only under 3000RPM, after which I had the normal surge of power that Im used to. This is the first time that IVe experienced this behaviour in 3 years of lapping.

Do you guys think that this is the early symptoms of a failing water pump? The production date of my 135i/N55 is 08/2010.

Thanks for your help.

[jake1220]

Don't include the P in your search. Just searched for 31E9 and found this.

Electric fan, actuation: Line disconnection

The diagnostic function monitors the wire
between the electric fan and the DME

The fault is recognized when
the electric fan has no power
supply.

That being said I had the coolant temp light flash on me while I was on the track. I switched to a lower power tune and didn't have the issue again. Tracking is extremely hard on our cars and the heat will get ridiculous. Just lower the boost and you should be fine.

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by jake1220

Don't include the P in your search. Just searched for 31E9 and found this.

Electric fan, actuation: Line disconnection

The diagnostic function monitors the wire
between the electric fan and the DME

The fault is recognized when
the electric fan has no power
supply.

That being said I had the coolant temp light flash on me while I was on the track. I switched to a lower power tune and didn't have the issue again. Tracking is extremely hard on our cars and the heat will get ridiculous. Just lower the boost and you should be fine.

Thanks Jake.
I got to remember to search with the last four codes only!!!

Will investigate the easy stuff, Fan wiring, connector, and free spinning fan.

It seems odd though that "power is reduced" only under the 3000 RPM range, but the PTF custom tune might have something to do with it. I might also try returning to stage 1 OTS tune, or remove the tune to help isolate the issue.

[dcaron9999]

Found my issue.

I found pinched fan wires, with exposed wires rubbing against chassis, which shorted out, the 60 amp Fan fuse.

Solution was to tidy everything up, and replace the fuse.

OBD code is gone, and full power is back.

[houtan]

Originally Posted by dcaron9999

Found my issue.

I found pinched fan wires, with exposed wires rubbing against chassis, which shorted out, the 60 amp Fan fuse.

Solution was to tidy everything up, and replace the fuse.

OBD code is gone, and full power is back.

Glad you figured it out. Any idea how they got pinched? For example, were the wires re routed due to something you installed or is it just something random that happened?

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by houtan

Glad you figured it out. Any idea how they got pinched? For example, were the wires re routed due to something you installed or is it just something random that happened?

Not sure exactly. Due to heat, the cotton tape wire holders had loosened, and fan wiring somehow got pinched between air intake ducts and metal chassis. With vibration over a period of time, the abrasion chewed up the plastic off the three conductors used by the fan (two large gauge, and one thin gauge).

[Hvaclander]

New and not sure to run cobb or jb4. I have been reading and I just want to know what's the hp I sould be getting at each stage. I see I need a new intercooler for a better tune but how big dose the core need to be. I see that there are a lot of different ic out there going from 5" to 7".

The car came with a bms cold air intake. I'm looking to make some modest power and have fun. The car is a n55 platform

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Hvaclander

New and not sure to run cobb or jb4. I have been reading and I just want to know what's the hp I sould be getting at each stage. I see I need a new intercooler for a better tune but how big dose the core need to be. I see that there are a lot of different ic out there going from 5" to 7".

The car came with a bms cold air intake. I'm looking to make some modest power and have fun. The car is a n55 platform

Each tune has its own pros and cons.
Cobb has smoother power delivery, no need for hardware installation, it can control fuel and ignition. Cobb maps are on the conservative side.

JB4 has a lot more cool features ( changing maps on the fly, control max boost on 1st and second gear for better traction control, adjusting power is really easy and takes less than a minute), JB4 maps are more aggressive than Cobb it also is offered at 50% of Cobb MSRP.

If you are not planning to track your car , get the VRSF 5".

BMS is the intake i would pick.

You also need to pick a charge pipe because your stock one will fail with the extra boost. VRSF and Evolution Racewerks charge pipes are very popular.

[Hvaclander]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Each tune has its own pros and cons.
Cobb has smoother power delivery, no need for hardware installation, it can control fuel and ignition. Cobb maps are on the conservative side.

JB4 has a lot more cool features ( changing maps on the fly, control max boost on 1st and second gear for better traction control, adjusting power is really easy and takes less than a minute), JB4 maps are more aggressive than Cobb it also is offered at 50% of Cobb MSRP.

If you are not planning to track your car , get the VRSF 5".

BMS is the intake i would pick.

You also need to pick a charge pipe because your stock one will fail with the extra boost. VRSF and Evolution Racewerks charge pipes are very popular.

Yes I know that I need to change the charge pipe asap. And I want I get the valves cleaned as well. Can't wait to open the beast that's in this car.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Hvaclander

Yes I know that I need to change the charge pipe asap. And I want I get the valves cleaned as well. Can't wait to open the beast that's in this car.

[houtan]

Originally Posted by dcaron9999

Not sure exactly. Due to heat, the cotton tape wire holders had loosened, and fan wiring somehow got pinched between air intake ducts and metal chassis. With vibration over a period of time, the abrasion chewed up the plastic off the three conductors used by the fan (two large gauge, and one thin gauge).

Good to know, thanks.

[Dodo_]

I bought a used AP V3 and I installed the Stg1 93 oct map and I feel no difference to where the car was before Cobb. Anyone else with similar issues?

[weeeee]

Originally Posted by Dodo_

I bought a used AP V3 and I installed the Stg1 93 oct map and I feel no difference to where the car was before Cobb. Anyone else with similar issues?

Nope you can post some data logs and/or ask COBB support about it.