What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[mkeiser]

Originally Posted by 19Neil

What detergent or cleaner are you using?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/OdoBan-1...61-G/323867236

[GoRomeo]

I replaced the H3 bulb located on the top for my headlight inner corner light. Bulb was working still but I guess it was going bad and was throwing the bulb warning light on the dashboard. I replaced with OEM. All good now. Cheers 🍻

[jdt10768]

@GoRomeo I did the same this past weekend, cornering lamp error. The bulb looked fine to me - was not blown, filament intact?? I replaced with a 5$ Sylvania H3 bulb, and error msg cleared. You don't need to spend 50$ on these !

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by jdt10768

@GoRomeo I did the same this past weekend, cornering lamp error. The bulb looked fine to me - was not blown, filament intact?? I replaced with a 5$ Sylvania H3 bulb, and error msg cleared. You don't need to spend 50$ on these !

Hey bud, cool. Yeah, mine looked a bit brownish around it if you see in my photo. I only paid $12.

[MParallel]

I have one out too. Looking into replacing everything that now goes for some (proper) leds and be done with.

[jdt10768]

Originally Posted by MParallel

I have one out too. Looking into replacing everything that now goes for some (proper) leds and be done with.

Let us know what you use, and whether there are any errors afterward pls.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by jdt10768

Let us know what you use, and whether there are any errors afterward pls.

I think LEDs in the halos tend to really suffer from bright inner ring, much more so than halogen.

[MParallel]

Originally Posted by jdt10768

Let us know what you use, and whether there are any errors afterward pls.

I do expect errors, but you can code out the monitoring of any light with a few clicks.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by MParallel

I do expect errors, but you can code out the monitoring of any light with a few clicks.

Me too I was gonna replace with white H3 Leds to match my angel lights but these inner lamps are only used when turning or reverse. So I just went OEM for the bad one I needed.

[demas]

Originally Posted by Fishee

I think LEDs in the halos tend to really suffer from bright inner ring, much more so than halogen.

True. Albeit looks like LED’s match better with the LCI headlamps. For pre-LCI, to me, LED’s don’t work well as an ‘uplift’ - better to stay with halogens to keep that classic look.

[demas]

Originally Posted by MParallel

Since I can't legally drive my new (to me) 135i just yet (which is like having all this candy but you can't eat it), just doing some exploring in what can be coded and such (which is ton lot more than my E36) so playing around with that.

Latest addition was coding the welcome lights to soft on (which in turn also makes them go soft off) which just gives them that extra bit of coolness.

Started cleaning up the engine bay. It's not bad at all, but I always go for the factory fresh look so out with the brushes.

Also have a ton of parts waiting at the dealer, but turns out the 1M brace shoulder nuts are special order.

Not sure if this is of interest but it’s one I’d do again.

Called Comfort Key Eject in BimmerCode. Allows the key fob to eject when shutting down the engine with a long press of the button.

Always hated having the extra step to push the fob in to release it.

First world problem I know but once you have muscle memory when driving three different cars during the week it makes things easier.

On the F10 it’s a two press operation to shut down. If I execute a second press in the E82 it will attempt to fire back up - thankfully there is the clutch depress safety built in otherwise dangerous. The MINI has the key eject on the right side of the steering wheel which feels natural, the E82 the left side - so getting used to a simple one stroke operation to shut the engine and auto eject the fob on the E82 was a godsend.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by demas

Not sure if this is of interest but it’s one I’d do again.

Called Comfort Key Eject in BimmerCode. Allows the key fob to eject when shutting down the engine with a long press of the button.

Always hated having the extra step to push the fob in to release it.

First world problem I know but once you have muscle memory when driving three different cars during the week it makes things easier.

On the F10 it’s a two press operation to shut down. If I execute a second press in the E82 it will attempt to fire back up - thankfully there is the clutch depress safety built in otherwise dangerous. The MINI has the key eject on the right side of the steering wheel which feels natural, the E82 the left side - so getting used to a simple one stroke operation to shut the engine and auto eject the fob on the E82 was a godsend.

I would argue, adding a start/stop button should reduce the steps in the start/stop sequence, not add steps.

I can't understand the "put key in and turn, but press a separate button to start"... when prior, it was "put key in and turn". Makes the button feel like a gimmick when it's tacked onto the process.

Definitely having a one stroke operation is much more intuitive.

Comfort access makes it all make sense, but realize that was a rare option back when the E82 was new.

[MParallel]

I do know that can be coded (eject) and have done in the past for others. Not sure if I like it myself as shutting down the engine, still makes you have accessories on.

With key ejected not.

I might play around and see what I like best. I even like putting the key in even though I have comfort access. Just so I know the key is there.

It's all preference. When I get in the car using comfort access and then press start-stop button, the car is on. But I can't turn the car off. At least not with start-stop as pressing it again will turn on ignition. With the key in the slot you just press the key and the car if off.
Without the key in, you have to get out of the car (while being on) and it only turns off after I lock it.

p.s. my Euro car is default coded to only need quick press to start the engine and from what I recall, when quick-pressing it to shut off, it should also eject the key (when this is coded).

Another long month to wait before I will have plates for the car and can start driving it. Can't wait to play around with MHD and XHP and start doing some mods.

[jdt10768]

Originally Posted by MParallel

I do know that can be coded (eject) and have done in the past for others. Not sure if I like it myself as shutting down the engine, still makes you have accessories on.

With key ejected not.

I might play around and see what I like best. I even like putting the key in even though I have comfort access. Just so I know the key is there.

It's all preference. When I get in the car using comfort access and then press start-stop button, the car is on. But I can't turn the car off. At least not with start-stop as pressing it again will turn on ignition. With the key in the slot you just press the key and the car if off.
Without the key in, you have to get out of the car (while being on) and it only turns off after I lock it.

p.s. my Euro car is default coded to only need quick press to start the engine and from what I recall, when quick-pressing it to shut off, it should also eject the key (when this is coded).

Another long month to wait before I will have plates for the car and can start driving it. Can't wait to play around with MHD and XHP and start doing some mods.

That's strange: I have CA, and when I shut the car off - 1st push of start/stop button turns engine OFF. 2nd press of start/stop button turns off accessories (stereo, etc). I never put the fob into the slot, ever. That's the point of Comfort Access, not having to use the fob
May be a difference in coding Euro vs USA, not sure . . .

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by jdt10768

That's strange: I have CA, and when I shut the car off - 1st push of start/stop button turns engine OFF. 2nd press of start/stop button turns off accessories (stereo, etc). I never put the fob into the slot, ever. That's the point of Comfort Access, not having to use the fob
May be a difference in coding Euro vs USA, not sure . . .

Also a difference between auto and manual? Hmm.

[WrathOTM]

Got my recall for the VANOS bolts done....

SO, here's how it went. Drop car off in the morning, get a call around noonish. They say everything is looking great but the valve cover has some oil seepage at the gasket and probably some hair-line cracks letting oil buildup on top of it. Since I'm approaching 143k on my 128i I can see where the seepage is so I know it needs to be replaced soon, I was going to buy one last month but decided to wait for month or two. The service advisor however was really trying to upsell a VC to me warning me of the issues of a broken VC and how it will run like shit then going as far as to offer special "4 month" financing to take care of it now for 800 plus tax. I tell him no multiple times and leave it at that.

Well...get a call a few hours later and get "The recall is done and looking good with the fresh bolts and gaskets but now your car runs like shit" (nearly his words). And boy was it running like shit, not at all how it was brought to them. So again, right away with trying to sell me a VC. "OH my tech is 100% certain it's the VC so gibs me 800 now don't worry we'll waive labor." I clap back with their own parts website lists it at $525.

I understand its a wholesale price, he needs to get a lot closer to matching it given that the part he was trying to sell me earlier that just so happened to break in a real bad way. To which his reply was - shit happens gibs 800 now if you want your car to run. I think, based on the condition of how clean my exterior/interior/engine bay is with plenty of new plastic underhood from maintenance that I forgot to post here in the thread.... that I would just likely say take my money. But no I got really fucking anggyy and got semi-mouthy but was courteous enough to thank him for the free recall. Thankfully there was a two-hour gap before I went and got my car.

Again I know the VC wasn't going to last forever... and that was an extremely shit drive coming home yesterday and I'm still fuming from it.

SINCE they were so certain it was the VC and me too given the whistling in 3 different pitches the stalling and real time fuel readout of 11.5 mpg I went and ordered one and a valvetronic motor annndddd eccentric shaft sensor because fuck you if you are going to make me pay I'm getting my goddamn money's worth. All right, getting angry again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l3Rs...cnkgYWdhaW4%3D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l3Rs...cnkgYWdhaW4%3D

[WrathOTM]

cool, two links. Sigh...

[WrathOTM]

Did want to post my cool new Knipex pliers that came in. Perfect for the Oetiker or ear-clamps. And probably pretty good at crushing teeth and abstract castration/circumcision.

[ZHPizza]

WrathOTM holy shit what a disaster. You'd think that they could have replaced the valve cover under the recall by saying it was damaged during the process but damn. I'd honestly consider reaching out to BMW NA to kindly ask if that's the normal process and see if they offer to cover it.

[MParallel]

Originally Posted by jdt10768

That's strange: I have CA, and when I shut the car off - 1st push of start/stop button turns engine OFF. 2nd press of start/stop button turns off accessories (stereo, etc). I never put the fob into the slot, ever. That's the point of Comfort Access, not having to use the fob
May be a difference in coding Euro vs USA, not sure . . .

I have to check, I have only started the car 3 times as it's in storage.

But the example I gave it without starting the car. Might behave differently then.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by ZHPizza

WrathOTM holy shit what a disaster. You'd think that they could have replaced the valve cover under the recall by saying it was damaged during the process but damn. I'd honestly consider reaching out to BMW NA to kindly ask if that's the normal process and see if they offer to cover it.

That's what I was thinking, the VC was already weakened - the work they performed likely exacerbated the issue. I think it was unavoidable.

What happens here?

If I were in their shoes, I'd be offering a 50% discount on the replacement VC, since it's technically their fault that it went from bad to worse, despite having no choice but to go that route for the recall. If the part was in good shape, it wouldn't be an issue, unless the dealer really messed up removing the VC.

And of course 0 additional labour cost, since that's already included in the recall. BMW corporate is already covering that.

Angers me that the company makes parts profit part of its business model.
Like, we made a poor part, we charged you for it when the car was new - but now we're going to charge you again, make a profit again, even though it's our fault that the part isn't great. Parts should all be at dealer cost.

FU.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by MParallel

I have to check, I have only started the car 3 times as it's in storage.

But the example I gave it without starting the car. Might behave differently then.

I'm fairly certain we're talking about the differences in how CA ignition works between an automatic car and a manual car.

Mine is CA manual, and I can tell you, the car will go full ignition with the button push, but the engine will not fire if the clutch is not depressed.

Clutch in, and there's full ignition plus engine start with single push.

What happens if your foot is off the brake and you do a button push?