What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[Katsunaka]

Originally Posted by cerealwars

Katsunaka
Sounds normal to me. The electric water pump and thermostat do a good job of keeping it hot for lean burn/emissions. Then you start ripping on the car and it drops temps immediately. You can also bleed the cooling system electronically FYI, if you need to. Use the fancy BMW coolant.

I also come from working on simpler cars from simpler times, but understand what you signed up for here.

Nice job with what you've done so far, sounds like she's coming along. Hope you find the driving experience as rewarding as I do. Juice is 100% worth the squeeze IMO.

Good to know thats normal then. It does drop temps when I get above 4-5k rpm. I have bled twice now, and using zerex g48 blue. I believe the car was driven regularly then covid it got parked for a while then being drove again its presenting a few issues.

I do love the car even with it being auto. Overall happy with it even though the cosmetics need attention. Mechanically pretty good just stupid bmw codes and little stuff.
Biggest thing I've noticed is the dme gives me a 328i vin, the trans ecu/module gives me an x3 one.Oh well drives fine and seemingly wants to bang through the gears effortlessly.

[Gray_Panther]

Had to take the footwell module out. I am shipping to bimecu to be reset.
I should have changed the battery at the end of last year but thought I could just install one after winter. Well the low voltage of the battery corrupted the footwell module. The windows don’t operate, no blinkers, headlights/taillights always on, light switch doesn’t work, etc.
BMW makes it easy but I still took my time to remove it so as to not damage anything.

Will update once I receive the module back and plug it in.

[jdt10768]

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

Had to take the footwell module out. I am shipping to bimecu to be reset.
I should have changed the battery at the end of last year but thought I could just install one after winter. Well the low voltage of the battery corrupted the footwell module. The windows don’t operate, no blinkers, headlights/taillights always on, light switch doesn’t work, etc.
BMW makes it easy but I still took my time to remove it so as to not damage anything.

Will update once I receive the module back and plug it in.

Did you have it on a tender over winter ?

[Gray_Panther]

Originally Posted by jdt10768

Did you have it on a tender over winter ?

Negative. I should have put it on a tender for 48H prior but oh well. Almost 13 years on an original battery, so I am not too mad about it. Lesson learned!!

[jdt10768]

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

Negative. I should have put it on a tender for 48H prior but oh well. Almost 13 years on an original battery, so I am not too mad about it. Lesson learned!!

Dude, it's so fking cold up there - how did it last that long? Well, now you can rationalize getting a nice new battery, and a tender . .

[Gray_Panther]

Originally Posted by jdt10768

Dude, it's so fking cold up there - how did it last that long? Well, now you can rationalize getting a nice new battery, and a tender . .

You will be surprised to hear my parent’s 2008 E88 original battery was replaced last summer. We don’t hook up a tender, we just disconnect the negative terminal and tuck it away.
But I think a tender is definitely needed for at least a few days prior to reconnecting it.

[Houranimd49]

Originally Posted by Houranimd49

I’ve changed it before, that’s what makes
Me not want to do it haha. But after driving the car for a bit I haven’t seen the code again. But let’s see how long that lasts.

Update. Code returned. But I have none of that clicking that you get when unlocking and locking the doors. So I’m confused on how true this 2DCE code is.

[Gray_Panther]

Another small update, I installed a diy clutch stop. Did a small rolling testing and I think the clutch pedal still goes down far enough to disengage the clutch from the gear.

Can anyone measure their clutch stop from BMS or wherever to confirm?

My car is down until I get the footwell module back so I have time to purchase one online if need be.

[cblock406]

I got my car at the beginning of March. So far I've yanked out the CDV and arm rest, installed White Line SFB inserts, and added some black/white Coco Mats. Plus some new OEM side markers, a clutch stop, new start button, and a fair amount of cleaning.

Pretty good improvement in how the car drives for almost no money

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

Can anyone measure their clutch stop from BMS or wherever to confirm?

It'll change from one car to another. Small details in alignment, slop, clutch wear, and so on. You'll have to finalize once it's running again.

[ZHPizza]

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

Another small update, I installed a diy clutch stop. Did a small rolling testing and I think the clutch pedal still goes down far enough to disengage the clutch from the gear.

Can anyone measure their clutch stop from BMS or wherever to confirm?

My car is down until I get the footwell module back so I have time to purchase one online if need be.

Honestly you're probably fine as long as you've got about an inch of pedal travel before you feel it grab. I ended up setting my cheapo clutch stop at the highest setting and it was perfect.

[Gray_Panther]

Originally Posted by ZHPizza

Honestly you're probably fine as long as you've got about an inch of pedal travel before you feel it grab. I ended up setting my cheapo clutch stop at the highest setting and it was perfect.

Ok that looks to be pretty much about the same height as mine. Thanks for the pic man!!

[ZHPizza]

Originally Posted by Katsunaka

Good to know thats normal then. It does drop temps when I get above 4-5k rpm. I have bled twice now, and using zerex g48 blue. I believe the car was driven regularly then covid it got parked for a while then being drove again its presenting a few issues.

I do love the car even with it being auto. Overall happy with it even though the cosmetics need attention. Mechanically pretty good just stupid bmw codes and little stuff.
Biggest thing I've noticed is the dme gives me a 328i vin, the trans ecu/module gives me an x3 one.Oh well drives fine and seemingly wants to bang through the gears effortlessly.

Just came across a forum post that stated this, that backs up what you're seeing and gives a little more detail (unfortunately I can't find the doc referenced):

This n52 technical documentation says that the engine has four different temperature profiles. I notice the highest temperatures (water ~215 F) are maintained during steady highway cruising. The lowest (water ~180 F and sometimes lower) seems to be for "spirited" and stop/go efforts. I imagine the BMW engineer types are smart enough to preference high temperatures for economy, crankcase cleanliness, etc. I notice my engine swings between "modes" pretty quickly, so I don't think the engine is under cooled (in terms of radiator or coolant flow) for my needs.

[moose09876]

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

Another small update, I installed a diy clutch stop. Did a small rolling testing and I think the clutch pedal still goes down far enough to disengage the clutch from the gear.

Can anyone measure their clutch stop from BMS or wherever to confirm?

My car is down until I get the footwell module back so I have time to purchase one online if need be.

I tried mine like a week ago, but the clutch safety switch engages way to low for the clutch stop to be very effective. I have an aftermarket clutch so it engages pretty high, didn't find any good solutions for the switch besides coding it out, which I'd rather not do.

[Katsunaka]

Originally Posted by ZHPizza

Just came across a forum post that stated this, that backs up what you're seeing and gives a little more detail (unfortunately I can't find the doc referenced):

This n52 technical documentation says that the engine has four different temperature profiles. I notice the highest temperatures (water ~215 F) are maintained during steady highway cruising. The lowest (water ~180 F and sometimes lower) seems to be for "spirited" and stop/go efforts. I imagine the BMW engineer types are smart enough to preference high temperatures for economy, crankcase cleanliness, etc. I notice my engine swings between "modes" pretty quickly, so I don't think the engine is under cooled (in terms of radiator or coolant flow) for my needs.

Appreciate the info and help.
If its normal then I'm just used to other vehicles that have lower temps.
Its my first german vehicle and I'm just used to american/japanese cars I suppose. I'll not worry til I see the yellow/orange temp light then. Water pump speed in protool is 193. No stored/pending codes for anything aside from the BST and TPMS. Nothing related to cooling or engine operation.

Spent some time last night replacing my condensation sensor behind the mirror to clear the A670 code. Working on figuring out how to use INPA better so I can disable the TPMS system and enable the FTM. So its light will piss off.

Gonna see if I can recharge my AC system. I can hear it click on but then turn back off. So gonna charge it with freon and leak detector and then check around to see if its leaky.

Slowly getting the codes and issues fixed on the mechanical side of the car. Then its off to cosmetics. Which I'll just see if I can get the whole car resprayed its Sedona Red to fix its cosmetics.

[Gray_Panther]

Originally Posted by Katsunaka

Appreciate the info and help.
If its normal then I'm just used to other vehicles that have lower temps.
Its my first german vehicle and I'm just used to american/japanese cars I suppose. I'll not worry til I see the yellow/orange temp light then. Water pump speed in protool is 193. No stored/pending codes for anything aside from the BST and TPMS. Nothing related to cooling or engine operation.

Spent some time last night replacing my condensation sensor behind the mirror to clear the A670 code. Working on figuring out how to use INPA better so I can disable the TPMS system and enable the FTM. So its light will piss off.

Gonna see if I can recharge my AC system. I can hear it click on but then turn back off. So gonna charge it with freon and leak detector and then check around to see if its leaky.

Slowly getting the codes and issues fixed on the mechanical side of the car. Then its off to cosmetics. Which I'll just see if I can get the whole car resprayed its Sedona Red to fix its cosmetics.

If you figure out the TPMS to be replaced by FTM, lmk!
I will be working on mine to try and do the same too. Just need to find time to work on it with my laptop after the FRM gets returned to me.

[Katsunaka]

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

If you figure out the TPMS to be replaced by FTM, lmk!
I will be working on mine to try and do the same too. Just need to find time to work on it with my laptop after the FRM gets returned to me.

I've gotta rebuild the CAFD from what I understand. I keep getting a file corrupted error in bimmergeeks protool or else I'd have it gone by now.

The one user that has the thread Investigating the Apex has a write up on how to remove it with Protool.

Was gonna follow it once I figure out how to fix the corrupted file error. But its raining here and I don't feel the best today. So its another days project. Hopefully a drier day.

[LuisBoston]

Originally Posted by NorthernDancer

Change [1 at a time] those rusty upper strut mount bolts, please

Hey…I have new strut mount bolts and a new strut top nut. Can I replace these while on the ground or do I need a lift?

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by LuisBoston

Hey…I have new strut mount bolts and a new strut top nut. Can I replace these while on the ground or do I need a lift?

On the ground. Doing them one at a time will be easiest. Be sure you have a torque wrench and the right spec. For the strut, you may need a specialized socket that can be turned while you have a wrench in it to hold the strut itself. Example below but I don't recall the size needed:

https://www.amazon.com/Suspension-So...435177618&th=1

[LuisBoston]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

On the ground. Doing them one at a time will be easiest. Be sure you have a torque wrench and the right spec. For the strut, you may need a specialized socket that can be turned while you have a wrench in it to hold the strut itself. Example below but I don't recall the size needed:

1

Thanks! I replaced all 6 mounting bolts and the E14 brace bolt. Didn’t need the tower bolts.

Does anyone know if I’m missing bolts here?

I had some work done a few months and just noticed this:

[Houranimd49]

Went out for a spirited drive today with my brother.

[mizzourahslim]

[QUOTE=LuisBoston;31990378]Thanks! I replaced all 6 mounting bolts and the E14 brace bolt. Didn’t need the tower bolts.

Does anyone know if I’m missing bolts here?

I had some work done a few months and just noticed this:

Same as mine.
Doesn’t appear to have any previous bolt/nut scratches.
Without searching additional engine bay photos online, could be a universal mounting point used on multiple cars.