What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[Houranimd49]

Originally Posted by cerealwars

Houranimd49
Hahah yeah dude!! Spotted in the wild

Thanks, she's looking kinda beat these days, but I'm about it

Were you in your 135? I missed it

I was tugging around in a VW taos. I saw you turn on VD from 12 mile and somehow I caught up. I have my 135 sitting right now waiting to get tires mounted and then alignment after.

[sliebhard]

Broke my B8 rear shock, that’s what I did today.

No clicky from the torque wrench. Gotta love that. Was being extra careful too.

[djacinto]

Alright m performance exhaust is in! Not gonna lie this was not my most fun job

I purchased a 135i exhaust from a fellow member and so the n55’s have a 76mm ID diameter while the n52’s have 66mm ID.

I decided to go the adapter route rather than the welding. initially I ordered a clamp off Amazon but realized it was too big, so after further research I came across one of the only reducer/couplers that had those specifications from khaos motorsports. They also have the correct clamps to go with it.

So, after a test fit on the m perf end, seemed like it fit, but didn’t have a 100% confirmation it would fit on the stock pipe.

I go to cut, nice and quick, and I try putting the adapter on and it’s too small. I didn’t take into account the outer diameter! So I did what any sane person would do-I kept trying. Long story short, the solution that worked was heating that sucker (the adapter) to high heaven (500 degrees) and leave a bunch of ice cubes on the pipe to contract it down. After some deep persuasion and crying later, one side was in.

The next issue was I couldn’t get it in deep enough. The adapter allows for about 2 inches of each size to go into the coupler, so I measured accordingly on the amount of pipe to cut. I tried putting a block of wood and smacking it with a mallet to push it in further but it didn’t want to budge.

So, I cut a little more off the m perf and then same thing. Heated the coupler, cooled the exhaust and slipped it in.

Once I got the hangers back on, I clamped down the adapter and a small area where the axle back angles up seems to be exposed so I will be monitoring for leaks but I think I pushed the pipe deep enough and clamped hard enough to not let any air out.

So the part that I had been waiting for for weeks since getting it- was it worth it?

For quick context, my modified car is an f32, fbo, high flow down pipe with an aa axle back n26, is loud. Almost obnoxiously loud on start up but I really like it.

This is my partner’s car and as such, I do not want her to hate her daily commuter car more than she already hates the commute-so it had to be tasteful and minor.

That’s exactly how I’d describe it. With first start up, I could hear the extra throatiness but not a lot of extra volume. I let the car warm up and while driving with the windows down, I could here the exhaust note much more since there were no more flaps. Giving it some revs in sport up to about 4-5k and that’s when you start hearing a bit more of that iconic na 6 lot noise that bmw is so well known for, but without the rasp!

So at the end of the day for 600 bucks, I do think it’s a little bit of a let down-only because I think my expectations were higher. I think it’s a phenomenal little piece but with the rise of people modding their existing mufflers for cheaper, I think that may be the way to go long term as these get even harder to find

Overall, for the price of the exhaust, I got for 600, shipped for 100, adapter and clamps for about 50, some odd tools here and there, it was a bit more than I was wanting to spend but my girlfriend will be the final judge.

Btw pics are from before I adjusted it, pushed it in a bit more but def sticks out more than stock. Will be continuing to adjust that

View post on imgur.com

[WeryPert1]

Oil change, new battery, and a new OFHG installed. All stuff I probably could have / should have tackled myself, but I'm a mediocre, clumsy mechanic at best and just didn't have the time, will, or energy. So $1325 ($467 in parts) from my indy mechanic and it was done in a couple of hours instead of consuming a couple of weekends, sigh.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by WeryPert1

Oil change, new battery, and a new OFHG installed. All stuff I probably could have / should have tackled myself, but I'm a mediocre, clumsy mechanic at best and just didn't have the time, will, or energy. So $1325 ($467 in parts) from my indy mechanic and it was done in a couple of hours instead of consuming a couple of weekends, sigh.

It's all good. "Choose your battles".

Doing needed maintenance, regardless of who's doing it, is a win in any enthusiast's mind.

[WeryPert1]

Originally Posted by WeryPert1

Oil change, new battery, and a new OFHG installed. All stuff I probably could have / should have tackled myself, but I'm a mediocre, clumsy mechanic at best and just didn't have the time, will, or energy. So $1325 ($467 in parts) from my indy mechanic and it was done in a couple of hours instead of consuming a couple of weekends, sigh.

Oh, and my indy mechanic AGAIN offered to buy my car if/when I'm looking to sell.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

It's all good. "Choose your battles".

Doing needed maintenance, regardless of who's doing it, is a win in any enthusiast's mind.

100%

Oil inlet line on turbo -> turbo out job.
I outsourced it to my trusted indy, despite doing literally everything else myself.
It was a 9 hour job. In winter, with no lift and no heated garage, yea no, I'm paying someone for that.

[ByeByeVTEC]

Took the car to the track on Saturday and it was an absolute blast!

One of my favourite photos of the day.... Evidence that the new brake pads were doing work!

[ZHPizza]

Originally Posted by ByeByeVTEC

Took the car to the track on Saturday and it was an absolute blast!

One of my favourite photos of the day.... Evidence that the new brake pads were doing work!

THAT'S A SPICY ROTOR

[moose09876]

Finally got the socket for new spark plugs and swapped them. After doing that job for the first time, immediately looking into a cowl delete. Also changed the MHD tune from stg 2 to 2+.... you can definitely feel a difference. Bye tires.

[DudeMan89]

Installed M3 front control arms and Whiteline rear subframe bushings.

The control arms are TRW and I know they're now manufactured in Malaysia but hopefully I don't have any issues. For the price I figured I'd take a gamble.

The subframe bushings were easier than I thought they would be. At first I was using a long threaded rod with a sleeve as a press but I found its better to just throw a socket on top and jack the subframe while applying heat. Much faster.

I didn't have a lot of time to drive it as unfortunately when I left the shop a storm was rolling in but it definitely feels more rigid and planted.

Only issue is my brake pedal is now a bit soft. I didn't disconnect the rear lines while doing the bushings but I also made sure not to put too much tension on them. Not really sure what's up with that, I checked the two hoses again while doing the alignment and they appeared to be fine, no bulges or leaking.

Might go back to the shop tomorrow and look into that. Worst case I will order steel braided lines and just replace all the hoses.

Also wrapped my window trim last weekend. Have to redo the top parts cause I was literally an inch or two short on the last piece and slightly messed up the the rear corners. My first time wrapping anything so overall it came out pretty well but I'll get it perfect next time.

[F80RN]

Took a photo of a new to me (and my son’s) 2011 128i


Found on Builtforbackroads

[Houranimd49]

Was cruising with my brother with his completely stock 135i. I had an issue where my stage 2+ tuned car couldn’t beat his stock car. I found boost leaks, fixed all of them, did all the maintainance, and we finally had a chance to have another go. Absolutely no change! I can’t beat a stock car. We’re going to dig to see if his car has any sort of tune.

But today I flashed back to stage 0 and my car feels basically the exact same as it did in stage 2+ (mhd). For reference, n55 with dp and FMIC, and only use shell 93 octane.

No codes but I do see ”Oxygen Sensor Heater: INCOMPLETE.” I have the catless downpipe option checked off. So I’m wondering if this is causing the issue. Someone suggested it could be due to my Dinan coil packs and NGK step 1 colder plugs causing limitations.

[ByeByeVTEC]

Originally Posted by ZHPizza

THAT'S A SPICY ROTOR

Yup! I'm pretty happy I didn't get any severe brake fade nor boil my fluid despite getting the brakes very hot (clearly).

Actually, I am super happy with all the temps at stock power with MHD 'Race' cooling mode. The big ETS intercooler definitely does what it says on the tin as well. Part of this could be the Time Trials format (only 3 hot laps) but at least this is evidence the car can actually track.... I am always worried about overcooking coolant, oil, and brakes within a couple of hot laps.

Next event on my calendar is for July... Hoping to get one in sooner but may not be possible. Only change planned is a corrected alignment (-2.75° F camber, 0 toe F/R, -1.9° rear camber is the plan) and installing some F30 dust shields with the scoop (or bending my OEM ones) to get more airflow to the front brakes.

[Afam28]

Originally Posted by Houranimd49

Was cruising with my brother with his completely stock 135i. I had an issue where my stage 2+ tuned car couldn’t beat his stock car. I found boost leaks, fixed all of them, did all the maintainance, and we finally had a chance to have another go. Absolutely no change! I can’t beat a stock car. We’re going to dig to see if his car has any sort of tune.

But today I flashed back to stage 0 and my car feels basically the exact same as it did in stage 2+ (mhd). For reference, n55 with dp and FMIC, and only use shell 93 octane.

No codes but I do see ”Oxygen Sensor Heater: INCOMPLETE.” I have the catless downpipe option checked off. So I’m wondering if this is causing the issue. Someone suggested it could be due to my Dinan coil packs and NGK step 1 colder plugs causing limitations.

I don’t believe your O2 sensor being incomplete has anything to do with your power issues…
I think that the option for downpipes toggled keeps your car from throwing a check engine by keeping the O2 test from running…
The only thing I can think of would be boost deactivating, but even with that, you would get a code..
Can you do a log?

[Houranimd49]

Originally Posted by Afam28

I don’t believe your O2 sensor being incomplete has anything to do with your power issues…
I think that the option for downpipes toggled keeps your car from throwing a check engine by keeping the O2 test from running…
The only thing I can think of would be boost deactivating, but even with that, you would get a code..
Can you do a log?

Glad you asked for one, I just did one today.
Here you go: https://datazap.me/u/houranimd49/log...og=0&data=3-11

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by Houranimd49

Glad you asked for one, I just did one today.
Here you go: https://datazap.me/u/houranimd49/log...og=0&data=3-11

Boost leak??
Connections secure at the IC and charge pipe?
Wastegates operating correctly?

[Afam28]

Originally Posted by Houranimd49

Glad you asked for one, I just did one today.
Here you go: https://datazap.me/u/houranimd49/log...og=0&data=3-11

- check all hoses for boost leaks(maybe some collapse under WOT)

- charge pipe

- check all hose clamps

- try another version of the MHD stage 2 OTS

- I don’t know if you checked or replaced recently, but check your boost solenoids

This is where I would start, you may have done this already but maybe under WOT…some of these items are creating issues which may be causing boost issues…

[Gray_Panther]

Well the 128i lost its parking buddy. I sold my MK7 2 door GTI to a kid who will learn to drive stick on the GTI.

So the 128i gets all the attention now!

[Houranimd49]

Originally Posted by Afam28

- check all hoses for boost leaks(maybe some collapse under WOT)

- charge pipe

- check all hose clamps

- try another version of the MHD stage 2 OTS

- I don’t know if you checked or replaced recently, but check your boost solenoids

This is where I would start, you may have done this already but maybe under WOT…some of these items are creating issues which may be causing boost issues…

1. Done. Had a leak at the intake manifold, replaced it entirely.

2. Done. I have all aluminum piping. Hose clamps are secure.

3. Boost leak tested passed with flying colors. I didn’t go passed 18psi though.

4. I did consider the Boost solenoid and since it was cheap enough, I replaced it.

5. I tried the v2.x beta, v1.84, and v1.6 all on 91 and then 93 octane. No change.


Maybe I just need a custom tune.

[Afam28]

Originally Posted by Houranimd49

1. Done. Had a leak at the intake manifold, replaced it entirely.

2. Done. I have all aluminum piping. Hose clamps are secure.

3. Boost leak tested passed with flying colors. I didn’t go passed 18psi though.

4. I did consider the Boost solenoid and since it was cheap enough, I replaced it.

5. I tried the v2.x beta, v1.84, and v1.6 all on 91 and then 93 octane. No change.


Maybe I just need a custom tune.

If you’ve done all of that, I would start looking at your turbos tbh…
Fuel isn’t the issue…
No misfires…
No codes associated with boost…
Might be pointing to your turbos directly…

Try the custom tune and see if that helps in suppose!

[K9Leader]

Installed the Turner aluminum expansion tank kit in my E82 today. I've been disappointed with the fit of connections with the plastic tanks so I thought I'd open my wallet and try something cool. Everything fit well and no leaks after bleeding and a test drive . . . so far, so good.