BMW Recall?

[v1k0d3n]

Sorry if this is a repost, but does this impact our 1M's?

http://abcnews.go.com/m/story?id=11968495

Also, I saw a seatbelt recall for 2011 1 series models. Does anyone have more information?

(Really sorry if this is a repost. I didn't see anything in search, and I've been off for a little while).

[hybris4u]

Don't seem to be affecting 2011/2012 models...

[superchargedman]

I have a new shifter and knob on order under warranty after the shifter popped up and dislocated from the gearbox twice on hard shifting.

[-Z-]

The news is from 2010. Please check dates before posting...

[superchargedman]

Has anyone else had the same issue with the shifter?

[torquedemon]

Originally Posted by superchargedman

I have a new shifter and knob on order under warranty after the shifter popped up and dislocated from the gearbox twice on hard shifting.

reallly??? wow i haven't noticed that yet, but could you describe in a little more detail the cause of the dislocation?

[robertm]

Originally Posted by superchargedman

Has anyone else had the same issue with the shifter?

When you are shifting into 2nd, 4th and 6th try to place your palm on top of the shifter instead of grabbing it from the outside. This will prevent that from happening. I've seen it a few times on track when a person gets a little over excited. If you are holding it like a baseball bat you tend to pull up when shifting into those gears in addition to moving the shifter into the proper gear.

[superchargedman]

It hasn't happened in a while, but it's being replaced free of charge, regardless.

[superchargedman]

Originally Posted by torquedemon

reallly??? wow i haven't noticed that yet, but could you describe in a little more detail the cause of the dislocation?

It's 1-2 shift pulling hard like a baseball bat, where the shifter pops up. You can twist it completely with only the boot holding it in place. It can be pushed back down into the gearbox.

[hybris4u]

Funny! Then its not just me! That happens a lot to manual BMWs for me. I shift a bit hard when I drive... ;-) Not any issues with my 1M yet though. ;-)

[Zuzu]

Happened to me once in my 135i, but never in my 1M..
Just popped it back in place, and it never happened again..

[robertm]

Here's a halfway decent article on the proper way to shift. Those of you that are pulling the shift lever off are using poor technique. Practice shifting this way for a while and it will become second nature. It will also make the equipment last longer. There is no need to ever 'shift hard'.

Shifting
You may think shifting is a no-brainer function, but in a sport where the difference of winning may be 1/100th of a second, every detail counts. In this discussion we point out how to acheive smooth, quick shifts that are easy on the hardware. We're assuming the use of a typical H-box shifter in a street car for this.

Many people fall into two bad habits on the street when shifting. First, Hollywood has taught everyone that it looks cool to always leave your right hand on the shift knob. Wrong! You may as well tie your hand behind your back as leave it on the shift knob. Your hand belongs on the steering wheel--always. When you need to shift--shift, and get your hand back on the wheel. Don't even rest it on the shifter for a few seconds a head of time to "get ready." Every time your hand leaves the steering wheel you've given up 50% of the tactile feedback you have from your hands, and 50% of your capability to control the car. If you're racing with other cars around you, you never know when you may get tapped. Even when racing alone, mechanical failure may cause handling trouble. You'll want both hands on the wheel when that happens.

The second bad habit some people have is shifting with excessive force. Too tight a grip, and slamming from one gear to another will actually slow your shifting down, and cause excessive mechanical wear. Proper shifting uses an open palm grip on the top of the shift knob, and a gentle but fast guide from one gear to another. We repeat---all shifting is properly done with the hand open and cupped over the top of the knob, not wrapped around it like a fighter plane control stick.

To shift from the top of the H to the bottom, start by forming a cup with your palm and fingers. Place the palm of the hand over the top of the shift knob. Using the underside of your fingers and your palm against the knob, use a smooth straight-line motion to guide the lever to the next gear. Assuming the shift lever has a fairly short travel, the action involves your wrist for the majority of the movement. Do not attempt to slam it or force it faster than it wants to go. If you are locking your wrist and moving your whole arm at the shoulder, you are using too much force.

To shift from the bottom of the H to the top, again start by forming a cup with your palm and fingers. This time when you place the hand over the shift knob, the emphasis of contact is on the heel of the palm. Start with the wrist slightly bent up. Push the lever using the palm heel in a straight line using your wrist to extend the position of the palm heel while following through with a gentle push of the arm. This shift is more arm motion than wrist.

When shifting across the H such as between 2nd and 3rd gears, do not try to make a conscious jog in your hand movements. The linkage needs very little input to make the diagonal path across neutral. Your shift should almost look like a straight diagonal line. Making a distinctive zig zag through neutral is strong-arming the shifter and will slow the shift down.

Using smooth, soft control of the lever does not imply doing it slowly. A gentle force of the lever will allow the shift linkage to move freely through its natural motions. If you strong-arm the motion you will end up forcing the linkage through lines that have more resistance. This will slow the shifting down. Use as much wrist movement as possible in place of moving the whole arm.

Some of you may be tempted to learn the techniques of "speed shifting"--shifting without using the clutch--in the interest of saving time. Many schools and professional racers have shown over and over that there is no speed or lap time advantage to this, and it carries a much higher risk of gear box damage.

[superchargedman]

Thanks for the article. However, I've driven many manuals, and my shifting never elicited this response, so I'm just glad to be getting it looked at and hopefully improved. It hasn't happened to me since also, so this may be part of the break in of the shifter.

[robertm]

Originally Posted by superchargedman

Thanks for the article. However, I've driven many manuals, and my shifting never elicited this response, so I'm just glad to be getting it looked at and hopefully improved. It hasn't happened to me since also, so this may be part of the break in of the shifter.

Sorry, wasn't trying to insinuate you were doing something wrong. Entirely possible the shifter is just faulty.



I definitely didn't know the technique above though. It's just not what Dad’s teach their sons! I adopted it once I started driving on track. It basically removes the ability to put a lot of muscle into the shift. A nice side effect of that is it removes another area of tension and muscle fatigue.

[ozinaldo]

Thanks for the article, none of us are old or good enough not to learn something new.

[hybris4u]

Hey we are strong men! ;-) Good info though!

[hybris4u]

And yes I driven manuals for 20 years and its just BMW that I have had issues with. But still good article and I can always improve! ;-) To much muscles can be hard. *just kidding*

[1Mpressive]

I'm literally sitting at the dealer getting my 1,200 mile service and dealer tells me there's a recall. Something to do with nav maps. I'll share details once I get the car and paperwork back.

[1Mpressive]

Originally Posted by 1Mpressive

I'm literally sitting at the dealer getting my 1,200 mile service and dealer tells me there's a recall. Something to do with nav maps. I'll share details once I get the car and paperwork back.

My SA left by the time my car was ready so i didnt get an explanation, but paperwork reads:

"1087 Performed nap map recall 65 18 11 defect code 00 65 49 02 00 determinate the installed the CIC nav road map check reader Sam application, no further action is required. Labor operation 00 60 7381 FRU"

Recall doesn't appear to be serious but I'm going to get the low down when they open Monday. I also plan to ask why they needed to drive car 42 miles (1/4 tank mind you) and wash it when i explicity told them not to. Me thinks they got the car dirty beating on it during their joyride. The car was spotless when I took it in and was dripping with water streaks all over the window from the wipers they must have used. Car wash is one thing but there is no reason for that many miles for a 1200 mile service. I'm f'ing livid.

[bayer]

Originally Posted by 1Mpressive

My SA left by the time my car was ready so i didnt get an explanation, but paperwork reads:

"1087 Performed nap map recall 65 18 11 defect code 00 65 49 02 00 determinate the installed the CIC nav road map check reader Sam application, no further action is required. Labor operation 00 60 7381 FRU"

Recall doesn't appear to be serious but I'm going to get the low down when they open Monday. I also plan to ask why they needed to drive car 42 miles (1/4 tank mind you) and wash it when i explicity told them not to. Me thinks they got the car dirty beating on it during their joyride. The car was spotless when I took it in and was dripping with water streaks all over the window from the wipers they must have used. Car wash is one thing but there is no reason for that many miles for a 1200 mile service. I'm f'ing livid.

There is a NAV map recall? Doesn't show on NHTSA recall website (http://www.safercar.gov), only has the seatbelt recall listed. I would think NHTSA would have it before dealers?

Seat belt recall below as FYI