JL Audio XD600/6 with Morels

1Hokie · 10-19-2015, 08:53 PM

Just installed morell mids and tweeters with a JL Audio xd600/6

Now with car even off, I get white noise from the tweeters... didn't happen before.

is the amp still running and going to drain my battery?

i used the diy power connection in the other post

i see the post about white noise but i never had this with the same head unit and original amp

reisf · 10-20-2015, 03:07 AM

Amp will run for about 2 minutes after car is turned off, and then turns off. Don't worry about it too much, this is expected behaviour.

Can you confirm where you got remote power for the amp?

1Hokie · 10-20-2015, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reisf

Amp will run for about 2 minutes after car is turned off, and then turns off. Don't worry about it too much, this is expected behaviour.

Can you confirm where you got remote power for the amp?

The power cable is connected to the larger ring terminal on the battery. There's two red terminal cables and I undid the nut on the larger one and added it to this. If that makes any sense

tracer bullet · 10-20-2015, 08:17 AM

I think he's asking about the remote turn-on. The switched power source. Not the main one.

(Unless that's how you ran it, in which case you might want to rethink it)

1Hokie · 10-20-2015, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

I think he's asking about the remote turn-on. The switched power source. Not the main one.

(Unless that's how you ran it, in which case you might want to rethink it)

Sorry. Total noob when it comes to electrical and audio stuff. I just went back out and retightened the wires. I noticed the input sensitivity was up on ch1/2 so I put that down and I think that did away with the noise. My battery isn't dead so I guess it didn't eat away all night and turned off after a few min! Yay!

Audiophiles: the ch1/2 and ch3:4 are set to HP (high pass?) and 200hz. Lp on ch5/6 and 80hz. Are these okay? I haven't touched them bc I don't really understand how to set them ideally

1Hokie · 10-20-2015, 05:05 PM

so, i tweaked around the settings, and i think my amateur ears are pretty happy with the setup so far...

one thing that has happened 3 times now is the audio will just suddenly drop. im streaming from my phone which i've done for a long time.. once it suddenly stops, i have to hit pause and play over, itll resume like normal... my spotify says its still playing the whole time when audio drops, its just like someone hit the mute button

any ideas??

tracer bullet · 10-20-2015, 05:53 PM

Input sensitivity is also called "gain", it is the amplification of the incoming signal including any noise along with the music. Typically I start with gain as low as possible then slowly turn them up as needed (to match the levels of multiple channels or multiple amps, or if you feel the volume level is simply too quiet). Better to get loud music by adjusting the volume on the head unit, not by adjusting the gain.

I'd look for a light on your amp to tell you if it is on. You may have to give it a few minutes after cutting off the car and removing the key to be sure it's off (sometimes they'll stay on a few minutes for various reasons not worth getting into). If the light is on, the amp is on. If it is on for more than a few minutes you have a problem. Just because the battery didn't drain does not mean it is not on, you may get a dead battery in colder weather that won't show up when it is warm. With this particular amp you can set it to wake up when music is being sent to it and turn off afterwards. Worked for me on a similar amp, took me a while to trust it. Double check what you have done or if you are relying on an additional wire for that turn-on trigger.

How are your speakers set up, what channels are powering what speakers and what size are those speakers? Typically you want your crossover points to be ab out the same. Maybe a little underlap or overlap but near the same. MusicarNW recommended a little overlap for me but I found that a little underlap worked best for me, you'll have to experiment but start w/ them at the same setting. Right now it sounds like you are losing a lot of music between 80 and 200Hz, not good.

As for the crossover point, I have mine around 70Hz, but I have the Logic 7 underseat mids and they can handle it. Below that runs to the sub in the trunk. I might suggest starting there but have no idea what your speaker setup is or if you even have a sub. You'd have to give a lot more info for help here.

Your drop-out sounds like an issue w/ the remote turn-on. See above.

1Hokie · 10-20-2015, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Input sensitivity is also called "gain", it is the amplification of the incoming signal including any noise along with the music. Typically I start with gain as low as possible then slowly turn them up as needed (to match the levels of multiple channels or multiple amps, or if you feel the volume level is simply too quiet). Better to get loud music by adjusting the volume on the head unit, not by adjusting the gain.

I'd look for a light on your amp to tell you if it is on. You may have to give it a few minutes after cutting off the car and removing the key to be sure it's off (sometimes they'll stay on a few minutes for various reasons not worth getting into). If the light is on, the amp is on. If it is on for more than a few minutes you have a problem. Just because the battery didn't drain does not mean it is not on, you may get a dead battery in colder weather that won't show up when it is warm. With this particular amp you can set it to wake up when music is being sent to it and turn off afterwards. Worked for me on a similar amp, took me a while to trust it. Double check what you have done or if you are relying on an additional wire for that turn-on trigger.

How are your speakers set up, what channels are powering what speakers and what size are those speakers? Typically you want your crossover points to be ab out the same. Maybe a little underlap or overlap but near the same. MusicarNW recommended a little overlap for me but I found that a little underlap worked best for me, you'll have to experiment but start w/ them at the same setting. Right now it sounds like you are losing a lot of music between 80 and 200Hz, not good.

As for the crossover point, I have mine around 70Hz, but I have the Logic 7 underseat mids and they can handle it. Below that runs to the sub in the trunk. I might suggest starting there but have no idea what your speaker setup is or if you even have a sub. You'd have to give a lot more info for help here.

Your drop-out sounds like an issue w/ the remote turn-on. See above.

I have Morel 2ways in the fronts only, same set MusicarNW sells with their kit
4" 2-Way Hybrid Series Component Speaker System
Power Handling: Peak: 600 watts per set / 300 watts each side / RMS: 200 watts per set / 100 watts each side
Impedance: 4 Ohms
Frequency Response: 70-25kHz
Sensitivity: 89 dB

Everything else is stock hifi system (rear mids and underseat subs)

I set the gain to the lowest setting for front (ch1/2) and rears (ch3/4) and I had to up ch5/6 for the subs since it was non-existent at 0

not 100% sure on how to determine overlap vs underlap. hopefully above info helps you in what i have and what freq i should start with and to move which direction. losing music does not sound good!!

tracer bullet · 10-21-2015, 12:39 PM

If I remember right, that's a 6.5" speaker under the seat (not the 8" like the Logic 7 / Premium / HK systems have.) Not very big! They aren't really "subs" unfortunately but that's another story.

What I would suggest, if you are up for the work, is to disconnect the rears and subs and only have the fronts hooked up. Set the fronts for high pass and the crossover at something like 100Hz as a starting point. Then play some music you are familiar with and that you also know has some decent bass in it, nothing insane but some. Up the volume to a pretty decent level and see if it sounds like the front speakers are distorting from the bass. If they are, you'll need to raise the crossover point until that quits. If not, you might explore more volume or a lower crossover setting until it begins to happen. Do be careful not to damage the speakers, any distortion is bad for them, so up the volume slowly. The goal here is to get us much frequency range to them as you can but not hurt them in the process. Eventually you'll arrive at a crossover point that you feel can go very loudly and is on the edge of but does not distort.

Whatever crossover point seems to work, set the subs for low pass and that same crossover point that you arrived at for the fronts. "Overlap" means that you would set the subs for something a little higher - for example the fronts do 100Hz and above, and the subs do 120Hz and below, giving you that 100 - 120Hz range they both play. Underlap is the opposite, in the same example if the fronts do 100Hz and above then perhaps the subs do only 80Hz and below, and you have a gap in the range. Start with them at the same point and go from there, and make changes if you feel there is a particular note that is too boomy compared to the rest or if you feel like something is missing a little bit. If in doubt just set them the same.

(It's not really that simple, because the crossover points aren't exact, they are just the point where the frequency starts to fall off. A front high pass of 100Hz doesn't mean that they don't see 90Hz, they do, just a lot less of it. Same for 80Hz, they see very little but they will see some. Underlap (in my case) or overlap may be needed to adjust for this.

You may have to try a good variety of music over a few days to dial in the fronts, and the same again for the subs. You may want to just set the rears to the same setting as the fronts. I would suggest having the volume for the rears be significantly lower than that for the fronts, the rears can provide some "fill" but as soon as you really start to hear them, in my opinion they are now too loud.

1Hokie · 10-22-2015, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

If I remember right, that's a 6.5" speaker under the seat (not the 8" like the Logic 7 / Premium / HK systems have.) Not very big! They aren't really "subs" unfortunately but that's another story.

What I would suggest, if you are up for the work, is to disconnect the rears and subs and only have the fronts hooked up. Set the fronts for high pass and the crossover at something like 100Hz as a starting point. Then play some music you are familiar with and that you also know has some decent bass in it, nothing insane but some. Up the volume to a pretty decent level and see if it sounds like the front speakers are distorting from the bass. If they are, you'll need to raise the crossover point until that quits. If not, you might explore more volume or a lower crossover setting until it begins to happen. Do be careful not to damage the speakers, any distortion is bad for them, so up the volume slowly. The goal here is to get us much frequency range to them as you can but not hurt them in the process. Eventually you'll arrive at a crossover point that you feel can go very loudly and is on the edge of but does not distort.

Whatever crossover point seems to work, set the subs for low pass and that same crossover point that you arrived at for the fronts. "Overlap" means that you would set the subs for something a little higher - for example the fronts do 100Hz and above, and the subs do 120Hz and below, giving you that 100 - 120Hz range they both play. Underlap is the opposite, in the same example if the fronts do 100Hz and above then perhaps the subs do only 80Hz and below, and you have a gap in the range. Start with them at the same point and go from there, and make changes if you feel there is a particular note that is too boomy compared to the rest or if you feel like something is missing a little bit. If in doubt just set them the same.

(It's not really that simple, because the crossover points aren't exact, they are just the point where the frequency starts to fall off. A front high pass of 100Hz doesn't mean that they don't see 90Hz, they do, just a lot less of it. Same for 80Hz, they see very little but they will see some. Underlap (in my case) or overlap may be needed to adjust for this.

You may have to try a good variety of music over a few days to dial in the fronts, and the same again for the subs. You may want to just set the rears to the same setting as the fronts. I would suggest having the volume for the rears be significantly lower than that for the fronts, the rears can provide some "fill" but as soon as you really start to hear them, in my opinion they are now too loud.

Thanks for that. I started at 100 and didn't adjust much from there. A lot I think is bc I probably can't hear the small changes that well but i tweaked the gains and freq so I don't hear any distortion at levels I'm happy with. So guess that's all that matters!

One thing I have run into now though.. If I increase the gain on ch1/2 then a few days later it becomes complete static and hisses out of front right with lots of distortion. I have to keep gain at 0 for the fronts to stop it. Also while adjusting gain on ch1/2 I hear static too but not from others but doesn't flake out completely for a few days. Kinda sucks bc I feel like I will never get to increase front gains

10-19-2015, 08:53 PM	#1
1Hokie Banned 24 Rep 242 Posts Drives: 08 328i, 10 z4 35i Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: crystal city iTrader: (2) Garage List 2008 BMW 328i E92 [0.00] 2010 BMW Z4 sDrive35i [7.00]	JL Audio XD600/6 with Morels Just installed morell mids and tweeters with a JL Audio xd600/6 Now with car even off, I get white noise from the tweeters... didn't happen before. is the amp still running and going to drain my battery? i used the diy power connection in the other post i see the post about white noise but i never had this with the same head unit and original amp
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10-20-2015, 03:07 AM	#2
reisf Lieutenant 128 Rep 525 Posts Drives: LBB M2 Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Sydney, Australia iTrader: (0)	Amp will run for about 2 minutes after car is turned off, and then turns off. Don't worry about it too much, this is expected behaviour. Can you confirm where you got remote power for the amp?
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10-20-2015, 08:17 AM	#4
tracer bullet Brigadier General 2410 Rep 3,547 Posts Drives: '11 135i , '15 X3 35i Join Date: May 2011 Location: Saint Paul, MN iTrader: (1)	I think he's asking about the remote turn-on. The switched power source. Not the main one. (Unless that's how you ran it, in which case you might want to rethink it)
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10-20-2015, 05:05 PM	#6
1Hokie Banned 24 Rep 242 Posts Drives: 08 328i, 10 z4 35i Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: crystal city iTrader: (2) Garage List 2008 BMW 328i E92 [0.00] 2010 BMW Z4 sDrive35i [7.00]	so, i tweaked around the settings, and i think my amateur ears are pretty happy with the setup so far... one thing that has happened 3 times now is the audio will just suddenly drop. im streaming from my phone which i've done for a long time.. once it suddenly stops, i have to hit pause and play over, itll resume like normal... my spotify says its still playing the whole time when audio drops, its just like someone hit the mute button any ideas??
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10-20-2015, 05:53 PM	#7
tracer bullet Brigadier General 2410 Rep 3,547 Posts Drives: '11 135i , '15 X3 35i Join Date: May 2011 Location: Saint Paul, MN iTrader: (1)	Input sensitivity is also called "gain", it is the amplification of the incoming signal including any noise along with the music. Typically I start with gain as low as possible then slowly turn them up as needed (to match the levels of multiple channels or multiple amps, or if you feel the volume level is simply too quiet). Better to get loud music by adjusting the volume on the head unit, not by adjusting the gain. I'd look for a light on your amp to tell you if it is on. You may have to give it a few minutes after cutting off the car and removing the key to be sure it's off (sometimes they'll stay on a few minutes for various reasons not worth getting into). If the light is on, the amp is on. If it is on for more than a few minutes you have a problem. Just because the battery didn't drain does not mean it is not on, you may get a dead battery in colder weather that won't show up when it is warm. With this particular amp you can set it to wake up when music is being sent to it and turn off afterwards. Worked for me on a similar amp, took me a while to trust it. Double check what you have done or if you are relying on an additional wire for that turn-on trigger. How are your speakers set up, what channels are powering what speakers and what size are those speakers? Typically you want your crossover points to be ab out the same. Maybe a little underlap or overlap but near the same. MusicarNW recommended a little overlap for me but I found that a little underlap worked best for me, you'll have to experiment but start w/ them at the same setting. Right now it sounds like you are losing a lot of music between 80 and 200Hz, not good. As for the crossover point, I have mine around 70Hz, but I have the Logic 7 underseat mids and they can handle it. Below that runs to the sub in the trunk. I might suggest starting there but have no idea what your speaker setup is or if you even have a sub. You'd have to give a lot more info for help here. Your drop-out sounds like an issue w/ the remote turn-on. See above.
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10-21-2015, 12:39 PM	#9
tracer bullet Brigadier General 2410 Rep 3,547 Posts Drives: '11 135i , '15 X3 35i Join Date: May 2011 Location: Saint Paul, MN iTrader: (1)	If I remember right, that's a 6.5" speaker under the seat (not the 8" like the Logic 7 / Premium / HK systems have.) Not very big! They aren't really "subs" unfortunately but that's another story. What I would suggest, if you are up for the work, is to disconnect the rears and subs and only have the fronts hooked up. Set the fronts for high pass and the crossover at something like 100Hz as a starting point. Then play some music you are familiar with and that you also know has some decent bass in it, nothing insane but some. Up the volume to a pretty decent level and see if it sounds like the front speakers are distorting from the bass. If they are, you'll need to raise the crossover point until that quits. If not, you might explore more volume or a lower crossover setting until it begins to happen. Do be careful not to damage the speakers, any distortion is bad for them, so up the volume slowly. The goal here is to get us much frequency range to them as you can but not hurt them in the process. Eventually you'll arrive at a crossover point that you feel can go very loudly and is on the edge of but does not distort. Whatever crossover point seems to work, set the subs for low pass and that same crossover point that you arrived at for the fronts. "Overlap" means that you would set the subs for something a little higher - for example the fronts do 100Hz and above, and the subs do 120Hz and below, giving you that 100 - 120Hz range they both play. Underlap is the opposite, in the same example if the fronts do 100Hz and above then perhaps the subs do only 80Hz and below, and you have a gap in the range. Start with them at the same point and go from there, and make changes if you feel there is a particular note that is too boomy compared to the rest or if you feel like something is missing a little bit. If in doubt just set them the same. (It's not really that simple, because the crossover points aren't exact, they are just the point where the frequency starts to fall off. A front high pass of 100Hz doesn't mean that they don't see 90Hz, they do, just a lot less of it. Same for 80Hz, they see very little but they will see some. Underlap (in my case) or overlap may be needed to adjust for this. You may have to try a good variety of music over a few days to dial in the fronts, and the same again for the subs. You may want to just set the rears to the same setting as the fronts. I would suggest having the volume for the rears be significantly lower than that for the fronts, the rears can provide some "fill" but as soon as you really start to hear them, in my opinion they are now too loud.
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