BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      10-01-2019, 09:21 PM   #23
bbnks2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imported_mega View Post
I found this last night, looks interesting I have pump on order for disassembly

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...sUIzHmyg0icTJo
Yeah I posted this on spool. If you can confirm their are shims in the e82 pump please update up lol I'd like to pop 1 or 2 shims out to make my steering with the m3 rack a bit lighter... pump looks similar so in sure it's the same concept.
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      10-20-2019, 02:44 PM   #24
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ours use a different setup, similar concept but I'm not sure which end of this piston/spring or between them would need a shim added, or if reducing spring length would help, although that increases the spring rate

The piston has a shaft with a small hole straight through, the silver shaft part fits inside the threaded cap



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      10-20-2019, 10:29 PM   #25
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Pressure is regulated by that hole. In normal state it is closed/blocked off. As pressure rises it forces the piston down, exposing the hole and lowering pressure.

More pressure, add shim between piston and spring.
Reduce pressure, cut down spring.

Both methods are going to be very small, fractional changes. Shim no larger than maybe 0.05". Consider the diameter of the hole and the distance in needs to move. Isn't much.

Same goes for cutting spring. cut less than you think you should. Maybe 1/4 coil. Need to measure assembled height and free height and make a judgement call.
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      10-21-2019, 08:30 AM   #26
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so the piston/port itself is the bypass line? I have not looked close at how it's plumbed, I picked this pump off ebay to take a look at it

I'm looking to try somewhere between 30 and 40 % reduction in assist
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      10-22-2019, 11:41 AM   #27
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there are no shims that could be removed
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      10-22-2019, 11:43 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imported_mega View Post
there are no shims that could be removed
Yeah i had everything wrong lol. does that center piece come apart like an M3 pump? Might want to shoot that guy a pm over on that forum... That thread is fairly recent.
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      10-22-2019, 02:14 PM   #29
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nope it's hollow, the spring fits up inside it
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      12-31-2020, 01:42 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imported_mega View Post
nope it's hollow, the spring fits up inside it
Any chance you've messed with this at all? I bought a second pump since mine was groaning like crazy with 315's up front. I just swapped in a modified setup just to see what would happen... I added a shim to compress the spring a bit but I have no clue if this is actually how it works... like said above, the valve doesn't seem to have a pressure regulator in it. It just seems to be a flow control orifice. I guess high pressure is bypassed by the spring compressing though which is why I shimmed (preloaded) the spring.

Result: I THINK the steering feels lighter. I don't daily the car and haven't driven it in weeks... but it did feel lighter. The pump also did not groan at all which leads me to believe pressure was higher. But, this could all be placebo. I might pull the pump again tomorrow and shim the spring even more...

The washer I used to shim the spring was good for about 4-5mm of preload since the washer also prevents the spring from seating in it's perch. Each additional washer would be another 1.2mm. That is, if this is even a proper way to increase pressure...

Maybe I should skip all these washers and drill out the orifice? I would guess I would need to drill out the orifice inside the pump and also bore out the needle control valve? That I am guessing would increase flow but at the risk that pressure would drop too much... maybe add 2-3 more washers to the spring seat and then bore out the orifice?

These are the two different places you could places washers to preload the spring, but, does that achieve the intended goal?:


This is where I placed a washer (#10 washer):


These are the two orifices that I think I should drill out?:

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      12-31-2020, 06:33 AM   #31
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if it felt lighter that's the opposite of what I wanted.

I ended up getting a m3 rack, it's perfect if the electronics are left unplugged quite a bit more feedback to my hands, harder to turn and quicker ratio
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      12-31-2020, 11:50 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imported_mega View Post
if it felt lighter that's the opposite of what I wanted.

I ended up getting a m3 rack, it's perfect if the electronics are left unplugged quite a bit more feedback to my hands, harder to turn and quicker ratio
Yes I am trying to achieve the opposite. M3 rack with 315's up front the power steering assist just isn't enough for things like autocross at lower speeds. It's laboring to whip the wheel back and fourth at 30mph.

I tried "retrofitting" servotronic by adding wires to my footwell module and coding it in but I do not think this actually did anything. Steering doesn't feel any different. Maybe I did something wrong but I still need more assist regardless.

Might just have to take it apart again and try the drilling now and see what happens.
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      01-20-2021, 05:28 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
Yes I am trying to achieve the opposite. M3 rack with 315's up front the power steering assist just isn't enough for things like autocross at lower speeds. It's laboring to whip the wheel back and fourth at 30mph.

I tried "retrofitting" servotronic by adding wires to my footwell module and coding it in but I do not think this actually did anything. Steering doesn't feel any different. Maybe I did something wrong but I still need more assist regardless.

Might just have to take it apart again and try the drilling now and see what happens.
Any updates on that?
I would also like to try to get a slighty lighter steering wheel, already have a spare broken PS pump, so no problem at all drilling that orifice or etc..
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      01-20-2021, 10:09 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebellato View Post
Any updates on that?
I would also like to try to get a slighty lighter steering wheel, already have a spare broken PS pump, so no problem at all drilling that orifice or etc..
No I finally got servotronic working correctly. Need to change the JBBF module to one stamped with an "M." Now the steering is perfect. 0-20mph is very light!

I did not bother messing with the pump more since I got servo working for $60 with the new module. Hydraulic fluid and time to remove the pump wasn't worth the effort just to satisfy my curiosity.
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