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11-26-2019, 03:39 PM | #1 |
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First 135i, getting tons of errors..
Hey, I've come from a 335i, e55 amg, and built Evo IX. I just purchased this car from Florida and had it shipped over to me in Oregon. I got it from a dealer and we had a PPI done on the vehicle before I sent them money. The car was sold as-is however through a third party company called Manheim/OVE broadcasting. It has a bit more body dents then I imagined so if this is going to give me a headache I'll submit a claim with OVE and return the car(will be SOL on shipping $$)
Upon picking up the car the battery was dead and rear tire was flat, a great start lol. We got it jumped and aired up the tires, once I hit the road I got a Trans. Malfunction, the car wouldn't shift out of gear, along with a lot of vibration at higher speeds. I got home and put it on the charger to see if the battery or alternator was throwing codes(My E55 had a bad alternator and made the cars CEL's, etc light up like a christmas tree). I charged the car up for about half an hour and hit the road to test the trans malfuntion etc. The car shifted great, however upon hitting boost in 2nd gear the CEL light came on. It went into limp mode so made a u-turn to get back home. Upon making the U-turn the DTC and brake light also came on(no trans malfunction this time). I ran the codes and it is u0100, P1618, and P16A3 The car can be on the charger for an hour and once I unplug it it wont start. It hesitates quite a bit. I'll try and get it into town and test the alternator/battery. Any help would be greatly appreciated |
11-26-2019, 04:25 PM | #2 |
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There was a power cable recall, not sure how important it actually was but FYI if it hasn't been done. Located somewhere under the glove box.
I'd start w/ a new battery. If it spent some time dead, it is suspect. And these cars have shown in the forums here to have strange symptoms from batteries that seem unrelated. The cable thing is a thing, sure, but I'd really do the battery before anything else. H6, H7 and H8 batteries fit (h8 just barely). Go AGM. Look for online coupons from parts stores, place order, then go pick up. Bring them your core at the same time even if you have another vehicle or person who can give you a lift. |
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11-26-2019, 05:35 PM | #3 |
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+1 for get a new battery.
Even though you're putting it on a charger, apparently agm batteries require a specific charger (multiple $K) to properly bring them back to health, if even possible. I think some autoparts stores or mechanics would have these chargers if you really want to try, but it would be easier to just replace the battery. |
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11-27-2019, 11:53 AM | #4 |
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Got a new battery and problem was fixed. Now upon me hitting WOT the car gets the half engine light on. Can't figure out if the HPFP needs to be replaced. Also having some ECU issues which I'll be making another thread on. Thanks.
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11-27-2019, 12:25 PM | #5 |
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N54 or N55? That can make a big difference.
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11-27-2019, 12:30 PM | #6 |
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It's an N54. Now that I fixed that issue I took it to state inspection to pass so i can title/reg it. Car's ECU has a different vin so it didnt pass. The current ECU on the car is from a 335i(according to scantool). Now I dont know if I need a new 135i ECU or if I can reprogram this one.
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11-27-2019, 12:38 PM | #7 |
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11-27-2019, 12:53 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
I anticipated slight body damage. I'm a dealer and got this as a personal driver. Got it from an Auction/OVE in Florida and had it shipped here. Has more damage then was listed on the auction site so I opened a claim, might be able to recoup 30-50% of my money back on it, especially since it wont pass Emissions(big nono to sell cars that wont pass as a dealer, lawsuit). Also got it for such a good deal I can't complain too much. |
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