DIY Request. BMW Performance REAR rotors

[Jockey]

I replaced my front rotors easily enough, the rear rotors are giving me a hard time. I can only see one bolt holding the caliper on but because of all the suspension linkages, a normal ratchet won't work. Seems like the only way to remove that guy would be with pneumatic tools.

So, if anyone takes a crack at this in the near future, let me know how you did it.

Thanks

[nordique14]

hmmm. I plan on doing it this weekend but have not looked at the layout yet. Hopefully someone here will post up their experience.

[Dackelone]

It might be you just need a very short stubby tool to get up in there. ?

I know VAG (VW/Audi have gone this route), you must use an ultra short 6mm hex (impluse) for the rear calipers on their cars. On VAG's the tool you need is no longer than one inch long! So you need special tools/sockets. Hazet makes some nice stuff. I looked in my 2010 Hazzet book, but it doesn't list anything special for e82/e88's. Only a 7mm hex allen for the e90 cars.

BMW tends to use 7mm hex or allens on their older products. I have no idea what they use on our 135i's. It looks to be just a regular bolt to me. Take a look at this exploded view from Realoem.com

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/x...kelone/249.png

number 2 is what we are after I suspect. four of the M10X26,5 bolts. These could be those inverse torx head bolts. Your'll need a set of "E-sockets" IF that is what it is.

Let us know what you guys find out!

[Dackelone]

looks like my realoem pic did not upload.

here is teh direct link for teh rear axle brakes:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...42&hg=34&fg=10

[Jockey]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

looks like my realoem pic did not upload.

here is teh direct link for teh rear axle brakes:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...42&hg=34&fg=10

Yep, Part #2 is the bolt alright. However, the bolt is on the lower part of the caliper, not the upper part (atleast on the left side), hence it being between a bunch of suspension linkages and a PITA.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Jockey

Yep, Part #2 is the bolt alright. However, the bolt is on the lower part of the caliper, not the upper part (atleast on the left side), hence it being between a bunch of suspension linkages and a PITA.

Ok, did a little digging around. I found this old post under: "DIY brake pad replacement". I think it will help you out just a bit!


http://media.photobucket.com/image/b...ningspring.jpg





Please note this poster's comments on getting NEW bolts!

Originally Posted by mchaskell
The caliper has a anchor plate that bolts to the back of the "suspension knuckle" (BMW calls it the swivel bearing). According to the BMW TIS, you remove the caliper and the anchor plate as a unit. The torque for these two M12x1.5 bolts is 110 Nm and they are to be replaced with new ones upon reassembly. The two 10mm allen bolts have a locking agent on them and I imagine are designed to be permament (Real OEM shows the caliper and backing plate as a unit).

I looked all this up because I am going to change out my OEM struts for some Koni FSD struts and you drop the swivel bearing and strut as a unit to access the strut for replacement.

http://www.bmwtis.com/


You can read the full posting here:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263962

Good Luck!

[Jockey]

Yep, that's going to take a little more than my ratchet set

[Dackelone]

Go to a dealer and order a set of new bolts. Then have the parts guys put you in touch with one of the mechanics who does the Perf upgrades. I bet he would tell you.

It looks to me you just need a 1/2 or 3/8 swivel socket and a long extension (12 inches or so) to get up in there. Put the swivel socket on the end. Go at in from inside of the car, maybe from under and coming at it from the diff. Use a big ass breaker-bar too, bc those bolts will be tight! I am going to have to take a look on my car to see what all is in the way. I can not really tell by looking at these pics on this DYI brake job.

I also do not undertand why bmw syas there are four bolts. The caliper should only attach with twp bolts normally. ???

bye

[Dackelone]

I was looking in my Hazet tool catalog today. Perhaps this is what you need?

http://www.louistools.de/catalog/ima...0896149438.jpg

[nordique14]

No problem getting to the 2 bolts on the back of the rear calipers. You will need a 16mm short socket. You will bump into the suspension pieces if you use a long socket. I only had a 5/8" short socket and that worked fine. No special tools required. I just had the socket and a ratchet.

I found the rears easier than the fronts.

[Jockey]

How in the sweet jesus did you break get that bolt off with a short socket?

Maybe I just need to work out

[nordique14]

Originally Posted by Jockey

How in the sweet jesus did you break get that bolt off with a short socket?

Maybe I just need to work out

I found the rear bolts came off pretty easy. I only used a standard sized handled 3/8" ratchet too. They must have over torqued yours at some point if they are that hard to get off.

The front bolts were crazy tight and I had to use a long pipe on the ratchet to get the damn things to even move.

[Esmallstii]

Just Replaced my rear pads and rotors w/ cool Carbons, and BMW Perf Rotors in about an hour total. Had to be one of the easiest brake jobs ive ever done.
1.)Remove 2 pins, and retaining spring,...remove and replace pads.EASY (i replaced the pads with the caliper still mounted.)
2.)Remove 2 16mm bolts from rear of caliper. (I used a std 3/8" Socket set)
3.)Remove Hex bolt holding Rotor onto hub.
4.)Give rotor a few good wacks on the flat part of the hub(The spot thats covered by the wheel when wheel is installed over it) with a hammer, until you see it move a bit.
5.)remove rotor.
6.)Replace w/ new rotor, Fit caliper w/ pads in it and Reinstall 2 mounting bolts. Torque to spec. (I believe 110nm) i also put some locktite on the bolts prior to reinstalling, and I cleaned and greased the pad contact points w. synthetic grease.
7.)Re-mount wheel.

about 1/2 hr per side.
Doing Fronts in the a.m.
Will post back with results and pics

[jabwind51]

Originally Posted by Esmallstii

Just Replaced my rear pads and rotors w/ cool Carbons, and BMW Perf Rotors in about an hour total. Had to be one of the easiest brake jobs ive ever done.
1.)Remove 2 pins, and retaining spring,...remove and replace pads.EASY (i replaced the pads with the caliper still mounted.)
2.)Remove 2 16mm bolts from rear of caliper. (I used a std 3/8" Socket set)
3.)Remove Hex bolt holding Rotor onto hub.
4.)Give rotor a few good wacks on the flat part of the hub(The spot thats covered by the wheel when wheel is installed over it) with a hammer, until you see it move a bit.
5.)remove rotor.
6.)Replace w/ new rotor, Fit caliper w/ pads in it and Reinstall 2 mounting bolts. Torque to spec. (I believe 110nm) i also put some locktite on the bolts prior to reinstalling, and I cleaned and greased the pad contact points w. synthetic grease.
7.)Re-mount wheel.

about 1/2 hr per side.
Doing Fronts in the a.m.
Will post back with results and pics

any update on the front install and some pics??

[Esmallstii]

Front Install was pretty straightforward as well,..no issues. There is already a DIY in the DIY forum.
Just do a