Finally got my Quaife! 128i bliss.

[TheSt|G]

Further research on RealOEM shows only one unit for the MT for the life of the car, but two for auto.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

Evidence?

Looks like I'm going to eat my words.

Appears that the welded is only for FI cars, NA cars should still be bolted throughout all years.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

Looks like I'm going to eat my words.

Appears that the welded is only for FI cars, NA cars should still be bolted throughout all years.

No worries.

I was just surprised after talking fairly extensively to James Bird about it to hear otherwise. That is exactly what my research said, other than autotragic FI cars are bolted as well.

[tuj]

The e-diff still gets involved even with an LSD installed and all nannies turned off. There was a member in the autox forum who logged his rear brake pressures and they were activating under hard cornering, albeit less than with no LSD installed.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by tuj

The e-diff still gets involved even with an LSD installed and all nannies turned off. There was a member in the autox forum who logged his rear brake pressures and they were activating under hard cornering, albeit less than with no LSD installed.

I thought there was no e-diff on the 128?

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

I thought there was no e-diff on the 128?

There is. E-diff is standard on all models except M cars. I'm curious if there is coding potential to tell the car we have a M variable lock in the back.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

There is. E-diff is standard on all models except M cars. I'm curious if there is coding potential to tell the car we have a M variable lock in the back.

well that sucks...id rather have just an open diff.

E-diffs really do suck...there is this one hump I always have to go over exiting the freeway and it always upsets the 128...traction control freaks out and suddenly I have no power on the wheels.

However, the Z4 just keeps the wheels turning, no cut of power and power to both wheels and keeps on going with no disturbance. I love mechanical LSDs

[tuj]

I would love to see a way to code the e-diff out of the car when TC is turned off. I suppose one could disconnect the rear wheel speed sensors, but I have no idea what other consequences that might have...certainly loss of rear ABS.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

well that sucks...id rather have just an open diff.

E-diffs really do suck...there is this one hump I always have to go over exiting the freeway and it always upsets the 128...traction control freaks out and suddenly I have no power on the wheels.

However, the Z4 just keeps the wheels turning, no cut of power and power to both wheels and keeps on going with no disturbance. I love mechanical LSDs

That's the traction control. The e-diff simply uses braking force to equalize the spin from one wheel to the other.

I still would rather just have a proper LSD.

Originally Posted by tuj

I would love to see a way to code the e-diff out of the car when TC is turned off. I suppose one could disconnect the rear wheel speed sensors, but I have no idea what other consequences that might have...certainly loss of rear ABS.

Disconnecting a wheel speed sensor would be a pretty terrible way to go about it.

[tuj]

Disconnecting a wheel speed sensor would be a pretty terrible way to go about it.

Why? People pull the ABS fuse on their race-cars all the time. I'm not saying to do this for street driving, but if the e-diff cannot be disabled via the DME code (which I'm guessing no one has done), certainly either a piggyback that blocks the e-diff braking signals or simply disabling the wheel sensors would defeat the e-diff, although I don't know what happens when you lose the wheel speed sensor; does it go into limp mode?

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by tuj

Why? People pull the ABS fuse on their race-cars all the time. I'm not saying to do this for street driving, but if the e-diff cannot be disabled via the DME code (which I'm guessing no one has done), certainly either a piggyback that blocks the e-diff braking signals or simply disabling the wheel sensors would defeat the e-diff, although I don't know what happens when you lose the wheel speed sensor; does it go into limp mode?

If we are talking about a race car, sure, whatever. That's hardly the discussion here.

[lakylester]

Originally Posted by uberschnell

When I installed a quaife on my 335 the shop had me bring it back at 1000 mi for fluid change. Same was true when I installed a wavetrac on my 135.

I'd find out what the shop thinks

I am in the market for both, and despite research - would love to hear first hand experience for the two.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by lakylester

I am in the market for both, and despite research - would love to hear first hand experience for the two.

Quaife has a stellar reputation in the industry.

[2tonik]

I wrote an email to Mike, who was my contact at VAC, asking if any break-in was necessary.

He responedd:

"No break it (in), just drive it."

So that's what I'm doing.

[2tonik]

http://www.vacmotorsports.com/blog/w.../diffchart.jpg

Looks like most of the manual and DCT diffs built after '07 are welded.

No data on the 128i's.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by Boston Terrier

http://www.vacmotorsports.com/blog/w.../diffchart.jpg

Looks like most of the manual and DCT diffs built after '07 are welded.

No data on the 128i's.

I spoke directly with James Bird, Quaife, and HP Autowerks. All 128i's are bolted.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

I spoke directly with James Bird, Quaife, and HP Autowerks. All 128i's are bolted.

Wooooooooo!

Now the question is, how much cheaper with a built unit from VAC, for example since labor isn't as intensive

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

Wooooooooo!

Now the question is, how much cheaper with a built unit from VAC, for example since labor isn't as intensive

I would just do it myself. Buy it from HP as they are cheaper, and don't end up with VAC quality work. I've seen enough of their "expertise" first hand to never go there, despite having them less than 45 minutes away from me.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

I would just do it myself. Buy it from HP as they are cheaper, and don't end up with VAC quality work. I've seen enough of their "expertise" first hand to never go there, despite having them less than 45 minutes away from me.

True...since it is just bolts now it can be easily done.

Who is HP btw...I don't recognize that abbreviation

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

True...since it is just bolts now it can be easily done.

Who is HP btw...I don't recognize that abbreviation

Sponsor on here who actually makes an effort with R&D and product development. They are the ones who loan the subframe bushing tool and make the adaptor for headlight auto leveling when M3 front arms are used.

[Bimmer-Bob]

Originally Posted by 2tonik

After a month-long wait for a core to come available (with attendant feelings of morbidness since that meant another person's 128i needed to be totaled), Mike at VAC Motorsports in Philadelphia built my new diff. Mike was a pleasure to deal with and very enthusiastic.

So besides the LSD from Harold, where any additional parts required? Diff housing, etc.? Or you just took the Quiafe and the car to Korman and were good to go?

By the way, I'm in NC as well - who knows, I might end up using the same shop you did, as I don't really have a "go to" place here in the eastern part of the state.

[Worra]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

I would just do it myself. Buy it from HP as they are cheaper, and don't end up with VAC quality work. I've seen enough of their "expertise" first hand to never go there, despite having them less than 45 minutes away from me.

Not the first time I've heard about VACs "work". I hear good things about diffsonline though.