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12-09-2012, 05:53 AM | #1 |
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Proflex vs Ohlins
For the people who deals with them, putting money aside, how do Proflex compare to Ohlins? Just realised that we have a local suspension expert on the Sunny Coast and I don't have to deal with people overseas.
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01-16-2013, 03:54 PM | #2 | |
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Only catch is he will want to do it at the track. We all know that's not going to happen. Just find out which is the most expensive and buy those ! Btw they are having a come and try hillclimb at mt cotton on Sunday Great place to explore your cars abilities in a safe environment lol |
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01-16-2013, 03:57 PM | #3 | |
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01-16-2013, 04:01 PM | #4 |
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01-16-2013, 06:33 PM | #6 |
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Alright then my mistake no offence to australia
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01-16-2013, 06:44 PM | #7 |
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The Real Deal
Well if you must, go with local support as setting up a race car is not like setting up your road / track day car.
There is a BLACK ART to this and unless you race a car offen you have no hope of getting the setup correct. These top line systems will not work correctly if you havent done the soild subframe bushes, adjustable arms and sway bars etc. And dont forget the semi slick tyres. If you dont do all this you are wasting you $$$$$$$$$$$$ and by the way it will drive like a brick on the road duck and dive all over the place. But on the track what a dream total fun but dont forget that the little BIMMER cant do more than 5 hot laps on a cold day. but thats another story So why do you need the best shocks ? Last edited by Kiwi Peter; 01-16-2013 at 10:37 PM.. |
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01-16-2013, 08:10 PM | #11 |
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01-16-2013, 08:29 PM | #12 |
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01-16-2013, 08:29 PM | #13 |
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I'm looking at suspension changes at present. Had a lengthy discussion with Beric Lynton's race car builder yesterday about my options.
BTW they are now fielding two cars for the 12 hour race. The second will be a 135 coverted to a 1M including all the bodywork, chassis changes etc. At present I have Eibach sportline springs on the car but it needs different shocks as it is quite skittish over stutter bumps and the like. I will probably be changing the car back to stock springs then looking for a kit to change to. As Skycat says, "There is a BLACK ART to this". Some thing I hadn't thought of is - when altering the ride height the roll centre can be affected. I.e the static roll centre can go from above a pivot point to below. Dynamically though, the altered roll centre can move above the pivot point and cause a drastic change to the car's behaviour. Eg. think of heavy braking into a downhill corner with the front end roll centre below the pivot point and the light rear end above the pivot point. A nice recipe for snap oversteer, something the car is already prone to. I do not any special have suspension knowledge, I am just passing on some info as I interpreted it as of yesterday. Plus, some things make logical sense. He suggested a kit which has compression damping as well as rebound. Then play with sway bars to dial in the handling trait you want. I.e. understeer, oversteer or neutral. It's all very well saying you want throttle adjustable oversteer but are you good enough? I used to think I was good enough having raced a bit ( albeit on bikes ) but these days I'm looking for a little more margin for error so I will perhaps be aiming for neutral to understeer. Beric's race car has a race KW kit fitted which was set up at the factory. They have done a fair amount of track development and are surprised at just how good the factory setting is. |
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01-16-2013, 09:22 PM | #15 | |
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I don't track anymore either but a nicely set up car is a nicely set up car. |
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01-16-2013, 10:05 PM | #16 | |
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The ohlins coilovers offered for the 335i are the R&T series. All I know is the ohlins gear transformed my bike into a plush ride around town yet on the twisties it provided excellent feedback and damper control. It's one thing having a stiff setup to provide great feedback yet another to be able to maintain some form of dampening for the shit roads we have here in Oz. |
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01-16-2013, 10:30 PM | #17 |
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Sorry to say, if you are trying hard and on semi slicks yes you will have a overheat issue at around 10-15 minutes on a 25deg day, maybe if your on road tyres you may go longer, and if it is STOCK a 1M with the extra Radaitor may go all day. Horses for courses
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01-16-2013, 10:31 PM | #18 | |
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I have had a similar experience, put KW DDC on my 1M and lowered the front 10mm for aesthetics, nothing else. Car handled well but see sawed a bit over bumps and the front end had less travel before hitting the bump stops which actually brought on understeer earlier when pushing hard. have since put the car back to stock heights and the handling is now so much better. The height of the front looks awkward but BMW have it like that for a reason. With the KW DDC, the Sport setting is just amazing for the twisties like in the national park or mountians, car sits completely flat. In sport+ mode its strictly for the track. The soft mode is stupidly soft, alot of people with the DDC have complained about it. I feel it is a bit of a cynical ploy by KW to make you buy the iphone module for $450 to make the soft mode actually useable and the sport mode a bit softer. Sparoz: i would get KW V3 if i could do it again, it only takes 5 minutes to wind them out for a track day and same to wide them back off for the road, and they are alot cheaper. you gotta be just a little realistic with this 1M, its never going to be super quick at the track, but you can make it more fun, and safer at higher speeds. With the KW and a set of 888's i feel pretty secure at eastern creek now |
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01-16-2013, 10:47 PM | #19 | |||||||
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Talking about old thread revival.
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01-16-2013, 11:59 PM | #20 | |
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Thanks for the clarification Peter. I was curious more than anything. Now I will stop thread jacking |
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01-17-2013, 02:21 AM | #21 | |
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ED: sorry, answered just above, should have read the thread for heating issues, just needs better cooling then haha. |
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01-17-2013, 04:36 AM | #22 |
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Hence Beric's car have extra cooling. And it still goes limp - but the radiator was block to be fair.
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