Need a new clutch

Allen@MOTIV · 10-01-2013, 07:02 AM

My recommendation is the Spec stage 2+ clutch. It offers stock driveability but can handle the power of a FBO+ meth/E85 setup. For 95% of enthusiasts this is the best clutch you can get.

I also recommend going with a new OEM DMFW. It can be very risky reusing the factory unit without resurfacing it and it can be hard to find a local machine shop willing to resurface it. Luk manufacturers the stock FW and they can be directly ordered rather than through BMW and that will save you some serious cash.

Stohlen · 10-01-2013, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allen@PTF

My recommendation is the Spec stage 2+ clutch. It offers stock driveability but can handle the power of a FBO+ meth/E85 setup. For 95% of enthusiasts this is the best clutch you can get.

I also recommend going with a new OEM DMFW. It can be very risky reusing the factory unit without resurfacing it and it can be hard to find a local machine shop willing to resurface it. Luk manufacturers the stock FW and they can be directly ordered rather than through BMW and that will save you some serious cash.

Whats your recomendation if you dont want to deal with spec's terrible customer service?

Allen@MOTIV · 10-02-2013, 01:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stohlen

Whats your recomendation if you dont want to deal with spec's terrible customer service?

Customer service is very important. However, the best customer service is the customer service you never need. Most(not all) issues with any clutch replacement are caused by installer error or failure to follow proper break in procedure.

We only carry parts that have proven themselves to both perform and be reliable. Also, I will only recommend parts that I would install on my personal car. In fact, I have a stage 3+ clutch and steel SMFW installed on my 135i.

RimasRS · 10-02-2013, 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allen@PTF

Customer service is very important. However, the best customer service is the customer service you never need. Most(not all) issues with any clutch replacement are caused by installer error or failure to follow proper break in procedure.

We only carry parts that have proven themselves to both perform and be reliable. Also, I will only recommend parts that I would install on my personal car. In fact, I have a stage 3+ clutch and steel SMFW installed on my 135i.

So if going SPEC stg2+ and new oem DMF what else has to be replaced checked. I know transmission bolts 8 aluminum, also I think would be good to replace crankshaft rear main seal. Anything else?

Allen@MOTIV · 10-02-2013, 04:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RimasRS

So if going SPEC stg2+ and new oem DMF what else has to be replaced checked. I know transmission bolts 8 aluminum, also I think would be good to replace crankshaft rear main seal. Anything else?

Rear main seal is a good idea. It's a good time for doing the CDV delete if you haven't done it already. Replacing the trans fluid with Redline MT-90 is also good idea. Other than that just do a basic undercar inspection looking for anything out of place or loose.

EDIT: Also, I can not stress enough how important it is to do a proper clutch break in. 500-1K miles of driving(no WOT) with lots of downshifting and "stop and go" driving.

RimasRS · 10-02-2013, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allen@PTF

Rear main seal is a good idea. It's a good time for doing the CDV delete if you haven't done it already. Replacing the trans fluid with Redline MT-90 is also good idea. Other than that just do a basic undercar inspection looking for anything out of place or loose.

EDIT: Also, I can not stress enough how important it is to do a proper clutch break in. 500-1K miles of driving(no WOT) with lots of downshifting and "stop and go" driving.

CDV I have as a lot of other mods. What is exactly brake in of the clutch it is not just driving normally in same gear as I understand. So what clutch need is it as much as possible simple start stop - traffic driving?

Stohlen · 10-02-2013, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allen@PTF

Customer service is very important. However, the best customer service is the customer service you never need. Most(not all) issues with any clutch replacement are caused by installer error or failure to follow proper break in procedure.

We only carry parts that have proven themselves to both perform and be reliable. Also, I will only recommend parts that I would install on my personal car. In fact, I have a stage 3+ clutch and steel SMFW installed on my 135i.

Which is great and all, but i had a Spec clutch failure where a rivet came loose and welded onto the flywheel and they wouldn't give me the time of day, we're incredibly rude, and only offered me a discount on a new clutch. Pretty pathetic after 5k miles of use.

Allen@MOTIV · 10-02-2013, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RimasRS

CDV I have as a lot of other mods. What is exactly brake in of the clutch it is not just driving normally in same gear as I understand. So what clutch need is it as much as possible simple start stop - traffic driving?

Yeah, basically. Lot's of starts and stops. Just NO WOT until ~500 miles.

woahitsholland · 10-03-2013, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allen@PTF

My recommendation is the Spec stage 2+ clutch. It offers stock driveability but can handle the power of a FBO+ meth/E85 setup. For 95% of enthusiasts this is the best clutch you can get.

I also recommend going with a new OEM DMFW. It can be very risky reusing the factory unit without resurfacing it and it can be hard to find a local machine shop willing to resurface it. Luk manufacturers the stock FW and they can be directly ordered rather than through BMW and that will save you some serious cash.

I probably will do this in the next couple of weeks. I've been hunting for a flywheel too and might do a spec one also. I don't want it to be under 20lbs though cause that sucks on the street haha. I had a spec in my supercharged 350z and loved it.

I'll do a review with install pics after I do it. I'm thinking ill do that and the diff at the same time. Hehe.

Allen@MOTIV · 10-03-2013, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woahitsholland

I probably will do this in the next couple of weeks. I've been hunting for a flywheel too and might do a spec one also. I don't want it to be under 20lbs though cause that sucks on the street haha. I had a spec in my supercharged 350z and loved it.

I'll do a review with install pics after I do it. I'm thinking ill do that and the diff at the same time. Hehe.

Spec's steel FW should do what you're looking for. We have great pricing on them if you're interested

10-01-2013, 07:02 AM	#23
Allen@MOTIV 38 Rep 634 Posts Drives: 135i Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: VA iTrader: (0)	My recommendation is the Spec stage 2+ clutch. It offers stock driveability but can handle the power of a FBO+ meth/E85 setup. For 95% of enthusiasts this is the best clutch you can get. I also recommend going with a new OEM DMFW. It can be very risky reusing the factory unit without resurfacing it and it can be hard to find a local machine shop willing to resurface it. Luk manufacturers the stock FW and they can be directly ordered rather than through BMW and that will save you some serious cash.
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