Essentric Shaft Actuator

Havocsteve · 10-29-2017, 03:28 PM

Alright, This might be lengthy but if anyone wants to attempt this repair themselves like I did, I had very little go by after the valve cover removal.

Few weeks ago, half engine light popped up. Codes suggested that it was the valvetronic motor but with the N55 engine, they created a Eccentric Shaft Actuator that replaces the valvetronic motor. I followed a guide that vespa created on the e90post forum. It gets you as far as the valve cover removal.

Some extra tips would be to remove the positive cable that crosses over the engine bay and also remove the white box that holds some serious electronics with tons of cables. See where the buggie cod holds them off the valve cover in picture #1.

After you remove the fuel rails, there is some fuel injector clips, I broke one side on the first injector but luckily that the middle clip is what holds the connector in place. As seen here.

This is the eccentric shaft actuator sticking out. I removed the gasket that surround it, it was mostly likely leaking slightly.

So after you get the wiring harness out of the way, you'll see 2 buckets (what I'll call em) that need to be removed in order to access the eccentric shaft.

Here's the new eccentric shaft actuator. Very costly part all by itself and with BMW quoting over $1000 alone for labor, we decided to do this ourselves.

After taking a break and thinking things through after having the engine opened up in all its glory. This is where panic started to set in.

Very clear view, you need to remove the oil line which is connected by a torx nut. just gently remove the oil line from the shaft. There is also 3 torx nuts holding this shaft into place securely. you should wait to remove them, as they can fall into the engine (don't ask me how I learned about that).

So to move forward, there is 3 bolts that have to be removed in order to get that bucket off, these 3 bolts allow the spark plug barrels to come out with the top part attached. Once that is removed, you'll have to remove inject #2 and inject #4 before you can remove the buckets as the last bolt is under those injectors. You'll see the bolts that have to be removed, 4 in total per bucket.

At this point, you can access the eccentric shaft actuator but you can't remove it. This is where I nearly shit myself as I was fully into this 9 hour process. The actuator has a allen key that you use to turn it along with the shaft that the worm gear is moving along. That shaft with the gear on it, has a flat spot that allows you to turn it towards so you can remove the actuator. This is where I got stumped. BE CAREFUL!!! There is spring pressure on that shaft when you move it. There is a stop that is located around the 5th inject that you can see that stops the shaft from moving off the gears. Unscrew that, and carefully use the allen key to turn the shaft along with a allen wrench on the shaft end near the timing belt. This allows you to fully take out the actuator and replace it. Once replaced, move the gears back to how they were before you went past the stopper, and put the stopper back on.

Now you just reverse the process. Putting everything back together how you took it apart.

Once you get into it, my sentences should be clear as day. I'm not a very mechanical inclined guy so my buddy was my father who is a wealth of knowledge and we both work great as team. Hopefully this helps someone once you get past the valve cover removal, because it was basically just blind hope from there as I could't find much in terms on anything on any forum. Also, for the fuel injector removal, be careful. I put a wrench then a nut onto the top of and screwed it on, then just used some force to pop it up (could possibly ruin your inject but mine are perfectly fine). This took a total of 9 hours total from start to finish (turning the car on and driving). If I had to do it again, I could do it in probably a few hours now that I know how to. Good luck to anyone who has to do this!

Havocsteve · 10-31-2017, 09:46 AM

Does anyone know if the shaft has to be placed in a certain position when reinstalling the actuator? I have it at a garage to get calibrated but my mechanic said it doesn't allow for calibration. It's throwing the 2E0F code instantly once he clears it. This is making me beyond frustrated. Everything looked perfect putting it all together and nothing looked worned on the inside of the engine.

After looking at my own pictures, I think we have that eccentric shaft 180 degrees the wrong way compared to the other photos before we swapped out the bad eccentric shaft actuator. (Insert a bunch of random swear words).

Havocsteve · 10-31-2017, 04:33 PM

Not entirely sure as of yet if that is the case of the shaft being 180 degrees backwards. It'll be in the shop overnight to see if the disconnected battery soft reset will fix it the code and allow him to calibrate the actuator.

Already looking at Lexus vehicles since this one might be my last BMW as this crap shouldn't break with less then 100,000km. Worse vehicle I think in design of the engine. Making my head explode at the current moment.

MightyMouseTech · 10-31-2017, 05:08 PM

Fingers crossed for you.

These cars are definitely a love/hate relationship.

Havocsteve · 10-31-2017, 08:20 PM

As far as I know, I'm like the second person attempting this repair. I love the car but stuff like this is pretty bad. I absolutely don't want to open it up. Taking the bus to work tomorrow because it's in the shop. Everything from the valve cover removal on-wards was guess work with basic mechanic know-how. You can see how the shaft is upside down on the last picture compared to the first few which show the teeth of the shaft upwards.

Gizmo135i · 10-31-2017, 08:57 PM

Shouldn’t matter where the gear is when you assemble it as long as the tab on the eccentric shaft is on the correct side of the two stoppers (it should be facing up). Also the procedure for moving the shaft and removing the stopper is sort of critical to avoid damaging the shaft.

Did you remember to re-install the oil pipe? it’s not there in your last pic... also it is important that the gears be lubed with oil during assembly.

Depending on what failed usually the eccentric shaft itself and the oil pipe should be replaced along with the actuator as the gears wear out and cause stiff movement. If it was diagnosed with ISTA it probably would have condemned all three. In addition after the repair, not only does it need to be initialized but the run in procedure needs to be done with ISTA

Not really a repair you want to “wing it” on lol

Gizmo135i · 10-31-2017, 08:59 PM

Also not sure what that code is off hand, or if it’s the same one you had before the repair, but the harness from the actuator to the dme has been known to go bad as well.

Havocsteve · 10-31-2017, 10:18 PM

The shaft is backwards im almost 100% positive. Everything was reassembled back with the oil line. When i put the negative cable back on, the actuator did make noise. Also with aux power on it did the same. I turned it to aux power a few times before starting the car. Upon start of the car, the rough idle was completely gone and there was nothing wrong. Only until the drive home from my fathers place did i notice it had no guts. So i was assuming it needed calibration. But after looking at the photos, it does look like the shaft teeth are 180 degrees the wrong way. The only code is the 2E0F which it had before. Didn't really wing the repair as my father has done basically everything car related but there is basically 0 guidance with this repair.

Gizmo135i · 10-31-2017, 10:45 PM

all I’m saying is these cars are more complicated then a typical car.. especially the valvetrain. They’re finicky and parts are expensive. If you don’t have access to ISTA it’s almost impossible to properly diag/work on them.

Like I said before, it doesn’t matter where the gear is in it’s stroke when you put it together... it will adjust as soon as you turn on the key. If the teeth on the motor were contacting the teeth on the shaft then your probably ok.

If the code is the same as you had before then I’d bet you have a harness issue... probably best to find someone with ISTA and run through the test plans for that code.

If you are keeping that car for a while and plan to work on it you might want to look into getting a copy of rheingold software... it is pretty much a pirated version of the same software dealers use including repair instructions etc..

juld0zer · 11-02-2017, 09:39 PM

NewTIS.com also has the repair instructions

hungry r · 11-03-2017, 09:54 AM

I attempted this last month when I got shadow code on the valvetronic sensor.

You can not install the motor with the eccentric shaft 180 degrees the wrong way, because if so, the eccentric shaft gear would not even touch the worm gear on the motor if the shaft was on the other side of the stoppers.

The hardest part of the install is actually swapping the motor.

When I opened up my valve cover, the eccentric shaft's gear was on one of its max positions. (Cant remember if it was all the way in or out)

first, I used allen key on the worm gear to rotated the shaft to play around and cranked the eccentric shaft so that the stopper on the intake side of the engine could be removed. (because i learned that the motor base was too big to be removed with the stoppers in place)

1 person has to hold the shaft with a wrench so that you dont let it spin off.
while rotating the shaft to get the motor out, the force switched on the eccentric shaft from trying to move counter clock wise to clock wise.
I was holding the shaft with the wrench and was really suprised, but we contained the rotation and the motor came out.
However this burst of energy chipped a tiny bit of the last teeth on the eccentric shaft. (o well... couldn't find that piece probably flew out sonewhere)

Installed the new motor and the shaft stopper and cranked the shaft to the position I originally found it at.

After everything was assembled, I was getting something like valvetronic actuator too much adjustment, disabled error.
I tried to clear the dme using n55 mhd and I believe it didnt work because it was still there after rescanning.
So I returned the ECU to mhd stock tune from stg1 and the valvetronic disabled error was gone when reading the code. (it was also a code that was not shown via CEL)

After that I just washed my car with my car in ignition hoping it would relearn or something.

From that point I don't have any more errors.

hungry r · 11-03-2017, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juld0zer

NewTIS.com also has the repair instructions

wow, this site is gold!
This would have helped me so much
Not sure how to engage the valvetronics run in procedure in the end of the article, do they mean like let it stay with ignition on for like 15min thing?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-gear/CyzwchK9

Gizmo135i · 11-03-2017, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hungry r

wow, this site is gold!
This would have helped me so much
Not sure how to engage the valvetronics run in procedure in the end of the article, do they mean like let it stay with ignition on for like 15min thing?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-gear/CyzwchK9

No it’s a service function in ISTA, it learns the min and max positions, and then cycles it back and forth 500 times to make sure the gears are worn in/meshing properly.

Havocsteve · 11-05-2017, 01:11 PM

Well the shop fixed it. The shaft was 180 degrees the wrong way. It was already at max before anything and the shaft wasn't able to rotate at all. I still have cold start stumble until 30 secs after. I believe now it's a leaky injector but I'll have to take it to BMW to do the leak down test to verify. I never found that site but it lwould have been EXTREMELY helpful. I believe if we assembled everything with the shaft facing the proper direction we would have been alright. My mechanic only charged me 5hr labor and a hour of coding to fix everything. He thinks my DME/ECM might be fried because the shaft was the wrong way so it was running in a loop for about 45 minutes total (drive home and to the shop from my fathers place) where the computer wasn't able to set itself properly. Either way, the servo motor and shaft looked completely brand new still and my mechanic confirmed that everything was still in great shape and nothing was damaged.

Havocsteve · 02-03-2018, 12:28 PM

Update: Car still has rough idle on cold start and the fuel eco is still crap. I went today and bought a new eccentric shaft actuator. I'll be booking it in for an appointment shortly. Just want this car to run how it did before the VVT went for a shit lol.

Havocsteve · 03-15-2018, 06:17 PM

Update: Got the car back today as it went in this morning to have the servo motor replaced with a new one. DME needed to be reprogrammed so I lost my PPK I loaded into it as I'm sure they just updated the DME to the latest BMW software. Other then the cost ($1030 with taxes in CAD), everything seems to be working amazing. The power is a bit less but it more smooth and when idling it doesn't seem to rev hunt like you could hear before. I'll have to test a cold start in a bit but so far happy. If it isn't a new servo motor then I'm burning the car for insurance and buying a new XC40 damnit lol. Just kidding. When it came out of the shop all cleaned up, I could only smile. The ladies sure loved it all nice and clean.

pipes777 · 08-18-2019, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Havocsteve

As far as I know, I'm like the second person attempting this repair. I love the car but stuff like this is pretty bad. I absolutely don't want to open it up. Taking the bus to work tomorrow because it's in the shop. Everything from the valve cover removal on-wards was guess work with basic mechanic know-how. You can see how the shaft is upside down on the last picture compared to the first few which show the teeth of the shaft upwards.

I had someone charge my n55 motor with one with 80,00 miles. After install they told me I needed a new servo motor because it had reduction in power and said thats what it was calling for. After repair the car runs rough at idol for about 2 minutes and has a little white smoke for the same time. After that the car runs great but reduction in power light still on. The garage that swapped motors did not specialize in bow and I am afraid it was installed wrong. The motor makes the fast clicking noise when remote locks are engaged. I have at another shop now and they tried the servo motor that was on my original engine and they said that one won't even engage. I just would like your opinion if you think the new servo motor could be bad or when they installed it could the have messed up the shaft or it s position.Do you have any photos of before and after. Thanks,John

10-29-2017, 03:28 PM	#1
Havocsteve Second Lieutenant 82 Rep 276 Posts Drives: 2011 E82 135i Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Toronto, Canada iTrader: (0)	Essentric Shaft Actuator Alright, This might be lengthy but if anyone wants to attempt this repair themselves like I did, I had very little go by after the valve cover removal. Few weeks ago, half engine light popped up. Codes suggested that it was the valvetronic motor but with the N55 engine, they created a Eccentric Shaft Actuator that replaces the valvetronic motor. I followed a guide that vespa created on the e90post forum. It gets you as far as the valve cover removal. Some extra tips would be to remove the positive cable that crosses over the engine bay and also remove the white box that holds some serious electronics with tons of cables. See where the buggie cod holds them off the valve cover in picture #1. After you remove the fuel rails, there is some fuel injector clips, I broke one side on the first injector but luckily that the middle clip is what holds the connector in place. As seen here. This is the eccentric shaft actuator sticking out. I removed the gasket that surround it, it was mostly likely leaking slightly. So after you get the wiring harness out of the way, you'll see 2 buckets (what I'll call em) that need to be removed in order to access the eccentric shaft. Here's the new eccentric shaft actuator. Very costly part all by itself and with BMW quoting over $1000 alone for labor, we decided to do this ourselves. After taking a break and thinking things through after having the engine opened up in all its glory. This is where panic started to set in. Very clear view, you need to remove the oil line which is connected by a torx nut. just gently remove the oil line from the shaft. There is also 3 torx nuts holding this shaft into place securely. you should wait to remove them, as they can fall into the engine (don't ask me how I learned about that). So to move forward, there is 3 bolts that have to be removed in order to get that bucket off, these 3 bolts allow the spark plug barrels to come out with the top part attached. Once that is removed, you'll have to remove inject #2 and inject #4 before you can remove the buckets as the last bolt is under those injectors. You'll see the bolts that have to be removed, 4 in total per bucket. At this point, you can access the eccentric shaft actuator but you can't remove it. This is where I nearly shit myself as I was fully into this 9 hour process. The actuator has a allen key that you use to turn it along with the shaft that the worm gear is moving along. That shaft with the gear on it, has a flat spot that allows you to turn it towards so you can remove the actuator. This is where I got stumped. BE CAREFUL!!! There is spring pressure on that shaft when you move it. There is a stop that is located around the 5th inject that you can see that stops the shaft from moving off the gears. Unscrew that, and carefully use the allen key to turn the shaft along with a allen wrench on the shaft end near the timing belt. This allows you to fully take out the actuator and replace it. Once replaced, move the gears back to how they were before you went past the stopper, and put the stopper back on. Now you just reverse the process. Putting everything back together how you took it apart. Once you get into it, my sentences should be clear as day. I'm not a very mechanical inclined guy so my buddy was my father who is a wealth of knowledge and we both work great as team. Hopefully this helps someone once you get past the valve cover removal, because it was basically just blind hope from there as I could't find much in terms on anything on any forum. Also, for the fuel injector removal, be careful. I put a wrench then a nut onto the top of and screwed it on, then just used some force to pop it up (could possibly ruin your inject but mine are perfectly fine). This took a total of 9 hours total from start to finish (turning the car on and driving). If I had to do it again, I could do it in probably a few hours now that I know how to. Good luck to anyone who has to do this! Last edited by Havocsteve; 10-30-2017 at 07:01 PM..
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10-31-2017, 09:46 AM	#2
Havocsteve Second Lieutenant 82 Rep 276 Posts Drives: 2011 E82 135i Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Toronto, Canada iTrader: (0)	Does anyone know if the shaft has to be placed in a certain position when reinstalling the actuator? I have it at a garage to get calibrated but my mechanic said it doesn't allow for calibration. It's throwing the 2E0F code instantly once he clears it. This is making me beyond frustrated. Everything looked perfect putting it all together and nothing looked worned on the inside of the engine. After looking at my own pictures, I think we have that eccentric shaft 180 degrees the wrong way compared to the other photos before we swapped out the bad eccentric shaft actuator. (Insert a bunch of random swear words). Last edited by Havocsteve; 10-31-2017 at 10:29 AM..
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10-31-2017, 04:33 PM	#3
Havocsteve Second Lieutenant 82 Rep 276 Posts Drives: 2011 E82 135i Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Toronto, Canada iTrader: (0)	Not entirely sure as of yet if that is the case of the shaft being 180 degrees backwards. It'll be in the shop overnight to see if the disconnected battery soft reset will fix it the code and allow him to calibrate the actuator. Already looking at Lexus vehicles since this one might be my last BMW as this crap shouldn't break with less then 100,000km. Worse vehicle I think in design of the engine. Making my head explode at the current moment.
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10-31-2017, 08:20 PM	#5
Havocsteve Second Lieutenant 82 Rep 276 Posts Drives: 2011 E82 135i Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Toronto, Canada iTrader: (0)	As far as I know, I'm like the second person attempting this repair. I love the car but stuff like this is pretty bad. I absolutely don't want to open it up. Taking the bus to work tomorrow because it's in the shop. Everything from the valve cover removal on-wards was guess work with basic mechanic know-how. You can see how the shaft is upside down on the last picture compared to the first few which show the teeth of the shaft upwards.
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10-31-2017, 08:57 PM	#6
Gizmo135i Second Lieutenant 116 Rep 264 Posts Drives: 135i n55 Join Date: May 2016 Location: Park Ridge NJ iTrader: (0)	Shouldn’t matter where the gear is when you assemble it as long as the tab on the eccentric shaft is on the correct side of the two stoppers (it should be facing up). Also the procedure for moving the shaft and removing the stopper is sort of critical to avoid damaging the shaft. Did you remember to re-install the oil pipe? it’s not there in your last pic... also it is important that the gears be lubed with oil during assembly. Depending on what failed usually the eccentric shaft itself and the oil pipe should be replaced along with the actuator as the gears wear out and cause stiff movement. If it was diagnosed with ISTA it probably would have condemned all three. In addition after the repair, not only does it need to be initialized but the run in procedure needs to be done with ISTA Not really a repair you want to “wing it” on lol
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10-31-2017, 05:08 PM	#4
MightyMouseTech Major General 4338 Rep 6,196 Posts Drives: 13 135i 6MT LeMans Blue MSport Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Ottawa, Canada iTrader: (0)	Fingers crossed for you. These cars are definitely a love/hate relationship.
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10-31-2017, 08:59 PM	#7
Gizmo135i Second Lieutenant 116 Rep 264 Posts Drives: 135i n55 Join Date: May 2016 Location: Park Ridge NJ iTrader: (0)	Also not sure what that code is off hand, or if it’s the same one you had before the repair, but the harness from the actuator to the dme has been known to go bad as well.
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10-31-2017, 10:18 PM	#8
Havocsteve Second Lieutenant 82 Rep 276 Posts Drives: 2011 E82 135i Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Toronto, Canada iTrader: (0)	The shaft is backwards im almost 100% positive. Everything was reassembled back with the oil line. When i put the negative cable back on, the actuator did make noise. Also with aux power on it did the same. I turned it to aux power a few times before starting the car. Upon start of the car, the rough idle was completely gone and there was nothing wrong. Only until the drive home from my fathers place did i notice it had no guts. So i was assuming it needed calibration. But after looking at the photos, it does look like the shaft teeth are 180 degrees the wrong way. The only code is the 2E0F which it had before. Didn't really wing the repair as my father has done basically everything car related but there is basically 0 guidance with this repair.
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10-31-2017, 10:45 PM	#9
Gizmo135i Second Lieutenant 116 Rep 264 Posts Drives: 135i n55 Join Date: May 2016 Location: Park Ridge NJ iTrader: (0)	all I’m saying is these cars are more complicated then a typical car.. especially the valvetrain. They’re finicky and parts are expensive. If you don’t have access to ISTA it’s almost impossible to properly diag/work on them. Like I said before, it doesn’t matter where the gear is in it’s stroke when you put it together... it will adjust as soon as you turn on the key. If the teeth on the motor were contacting the teeth on the shaft then your probably ok. If the code is the same as you had before then I’d bet you have a harness issue... probably best to find someone with ISTA and run through the test plans for that code. If you are keeping that car for a while and plan to work on it you might want to look into getting a copy of rheingold software... it is pretty much a pirated version of the same software dealers use including repair instructions etc..
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11-02-2017, 09:39 PM	#10
juld0zer Lieutenant Colonel 480 Rep 1,600 Posts Drives: Prev 135i 7DCT, Now 130i 6sp Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: 2153 iTrader: (0)	NewTIS.com also has the repair instructions
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11-03-2017, 09:54 AM	#11
hungry r Enlisted Member 18 Rep 40 Posts Drives: 2011 135 Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Toronto iTrader: (0)	I attempted this last month when I got shadow code on the valvetronic sensor. You can not install the motor with the eccentric shaft 180 degrees the wrong way, because if so, the eccentric shaft gear would not even touch the worm gear on the motor if the shaft was on the other side of the stoppers. The hardest part of the install is actually swapping the motor. When I opened up my valve cover, the eccentric shaft's gear was on one of its max positions. (Cant remember if it was all the way in or out) first, I used allen key on the worm gear to rotated the shaft to play around and cranked the eccentric shaft so that the stopper on the intake side of the engine could be removed. (because i learned that the motor base was too big to be removed with the stoppers in place) 1 person has to hold the shaft with a wrench so that you dont let it spin off. while rotating the shaft to get the motor out, the force switched on the eccentric shaft from trying to move counter clock wise to clock wise. I was holding the shaft with the wrench and was really suprised, but we contained the rotation and the motor came out. However this burst of energy chipped a tiny bit of the last teeth on the eccentric shaft. (o well... couldn't find that piece probably flew out sonewhere) Installed the new motor and the shaft stopper and cranked the shaft to the position I originally found it at. After everything was assembled, I was getting something like valvetronic actuator too much adjustment, disabled error. I tried to clear the dme using n55 mhd and I believe it didnt work because it was still there after rescanning. So I returned the ECU to mhd stock tune from stg1 and the valvetronic disabled error was gone when reading the code. (it was also a code that was not shown via CEL) After that I just washed my car with my car in ignition hoping it would relearn or something. From that point I don't have any more errors.
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11-05-2017, 01:11 PM	#14
Havocsteve Second Lieutenant 82 Rep 276 Posts Drives: 2011 E82 135i Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Toronto, Canada iTrader: (0)	Well the shop fixed it. The shaft was 180 degrees the wrong way. It was already at max before anything and the shaft wasn't able to rotate at all. I still have cold start stumble until 30 secs after. I believe now it's a leaky injector but I'll have to take it to BMW to do the leak down test to verify. I never found that site but it lwould have been EXTREMELY helpful. I believe if we assembled everything with the shaft facing the proper direction we would have been alright. My mechanic only charged me 5hr labor and a hour of coding to fix everything. He thinks my DME/ECM might be fried because the shaft was the wrong way so it was running in a loop for about 45 minutes total (drive home and to the shop from my fathers place) where the computer wasn't able to set itself properly. Either way, the servo motor and shaft looked completely brand new still and my mechanic confirmed that everything was still in great shape and nothing was damaged.
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02-03-2018, 12:28 PM	#15
Havocsteve Second Lieutenant 82 Rep 276 Posts Drives: 2011 E82 135i Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Toronto, Canada iTrader: (0)	Update: Car still has rough idle on cold start and the fuel eco is still crap. I went today and bought a new eccentric shaft actuator. I'll be booking it in for an appointment shortly. Just want this car to run how it did before the VVT went for a shit lol.
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03-15-2018, 06:17 PM	#16
Havocsteve Second Lieutenant 82 Rep 276 Posts Drives: 2011 E82 135i Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Toronto, Canada iTrader: (0)	Update: Got the car back today as it went in this morning to have the servo motor replaced with a new one. DME needed to be reprogrammed so I lost my PPK I loaded into it as I'm sure they just updated the DME to the latest BMW software. Other then the cost ($1030 with taxes in CAD), everything seems to be working amazing. The power is a bit less but it more smooth and when idling it doesn't seem to rev hunt like you could hear before. I'll have to test a cold start in a bit but so far happy. If it isn't a new servo motor then I'm burning the car for insurance and buying a new XC40 damnit lol. Just kidding. When it came out of the shop all cleaned up, I could only smile. The ladies sure loved it all nice and clean.
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