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      08-10-2015, 12:15 AM   #45
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Didn't get your email.

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      02-12-2016, 02:04 PM   #46
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Any update or have you switched springs dcaron9999? Trying to help a buddy who is looking to pick up some springs and shocks.
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      02-12-2016, 03:17 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by KRyn View Post
Any update or have you switched springs dcaron9999? Trying to help a buddy who is looking to pick up some springs and shocks.
No. Stayed with same springs, and installed larger sway bar in the front only.
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      02-12-2016, 03:31 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
No. Stayed with same springs, and installed larger sway bar in the front only.
How comfortable and compliant is the car on the street with this spring / shock combination? Does it make it unbearable for longer commutes or is it comfortable enough to still enjoy driving on the streets?

Thanks in advance.
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      02-12-2016, 03:40 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRyn View Post
How comfortable and compliant is the car on the street with this spring / shock combination? Does it make it unbearable for longer commutes or is it comfortable enough to still enjoy driving on the streets?

Thanks in advance.
Our roads are bad here in Quebec, and the drive is still OK on most roads. My prime use of the car is driving at/to/from lapping events. The dampers get stiffer in the cold weather probably due to temperature sensitive oil in them.

Check my other threads as the springs will generate excessive rake with camber plates. I had to get 22 mm spacers built to fit on top of my GC camber plates to even out front and rear height ...
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Last edited by dcaron9999; 02-19-2016 at 11:44 AM..
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      02-19-2016, 07:32 AM   #50
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I have read that the best spring rates to run for handling purposes are as follows in regards to the natural frequency of the suspension (which needs to be modeled).

Street car: 0.8 Hz.
Occasional autocrosser/track: 1-1.5 Hz.
Full-bore autocrosser/track: 2.2-2.5 Hz.

I have heard some people say they feel the 2.2/2.5Hz suggestion is too soft for the track and they go as high as 3Hz.
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      02-19-2016, 11:33 AM   #51
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DCaron, do you have pictures of what those spacers look like / the top view from the engine bay of what the GC plates look like with the spacer?
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      02-19-2016, 02:19 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanDavies View Post
DCaron, do you have pictures of what those spacers look like / the top view from the engine bay of what the GC plates look like with the spacer?
The bolts on top of the GC plates have been elongated to reach through the strut tower.
PM me and I will pass on my reference that designed this for me.
Here are instructions from him:

Your indicator plates need to go between the camber plate and the red spacer, not between the red spacer and the chassis.

The red spacers are engraved beside the phillips screw in the top to show which side of the car they go on. The screws are locating pegs and should not be removed. This arrangement fixes the indicator plate relative to the car, rather than letting it float around. It also biases the plates in the direction of more camber, so it permits you to select the maximum possible camber within the range of the slotted holes in chassis and the camber plates.

Because of the long screws, you may have to remove the camber plates from the strut to get the bolt plates installed.

I am sending you my old camber plate bodies along with a set of oilite bushings. The slots in my plates have been widened by just a bit so that the oilite bushings fit. This results in a much smoother adjustment of the plates and constrains the movement to a pure camber change, rather than being sloppy in the caster direction. "








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      02-28-2016, 07:48 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Our roads are bad here in Quebec, and the drive is still OK on most roads. My prime use of the car is driving at/to/from lapping events. The dampers get stiffer in the cold weather probably due to temperature sensitive oil in them.

Check my other threads as the springs will generate excessive rake with camber plates. I had to get 22 mm spacers built to fit on top of my GC camber plates to even out front and rear height ...
Link to other threads? I can't seem to find them
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      02-29-2016, 06:19 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris82 View Post
Link to other threads? I can't seem to find them
Here are random posts describing the issue.
My situation occurred with camber plates coupled to Swift Springs. Dont know if this is common with any camber plates on the market, and aftermakret springs. Rake would not be an issue with coilovers of course ...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...38&postcount=5

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=16

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=19

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=23
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Last edited by dcaron9999; 02-29-2016 at 06:26 AM..
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      02-29-2016, 10:08 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Thanks John.

I just called a few local auto parts recyclers, and found an E93/M3 FSB with bushings + brackets for $150CAD.

Looks like the FSB approach is worth trying, and easily reversible ...
Wow that's cheap, I wonder if I have any of those local to me or if there going to be that cheap lol
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      02-29-2016, 10:46 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Here are random posts describing the issue.
My situation occurred with camber plates coupled to Swift Springs. Dont know if this is common with any camber plates on the market, and aftermakret springs. Rake would not be an issue with coilovers of course ...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...38&postcount=5

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=16

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=19

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=23
Awesome, exactly what I was looking for. Took forever for me to find out if the GC plates were thinner than OEM top hats, now I know.
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      09-07-2016, 11:55 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris82 View Post
Awesome, exactly what I was looking for. Took forever for me to find out if the GC plates were thinner than OEM top hats, now I know.
Vorshlag plates have the options to add an extra top ring to gain about 5mm in height or as is at OEM stack height. A good alternative.
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      09-14-2016, 11:21 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
The bolts on top of the GC plates have been elongated to reach through the strut tower.
PM me and I will pass on my reference that designed this for me.
Here are instructions from him:

Your indicator plates need to go between the camber plate and the red spacer, not between the red spacer and the chassis.

The red spacers are engraved beside the phillips screw in the top to show which side of the car they go on. The screws are locating pegs and should not be removed. This arrangement fixes the indicator plate relative to the car, rather than letting it float around. It also biases the plates in the direction of more camber, so it permits you to select the maximum possible camber within the range of the slotted holes in chassis and the camber plates.

Because of the long screws, you may have to remove the camber plates from the strut to get the bolt plates installed.

I am sending you my old camber plate bodies along with a set of oilite bushings. The slots in my plates have been widened by just a bit so that the oilite bushings fit. This results in a much smoother adjustment of the plates and constrains the movement to a pure camber change, rather than being sloppy in the caster direction. "








Sorry going back to this.

Does this allow more camber by letting the nut above the camber plate to get below the shock tower and avoid hitting hit?
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      09-14-2016, 11:26 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kgolf31 View Post
Sorry going back to this.

Does this allow more camber by letting the nut above the camber plate to get below the shock tower and avoid hitting hit?
Can't say, but I max out a t - 3.5 degrees with my setup...
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      09-14-2016, 08:24 PM   #60
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Is that -3.5 with or without the extended M control arms?

Mark
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      09-14-2016, 08:31 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
Is that -3.5 with or without the extended M control arms?

Mark
With the m3 FCA's

Last edited by dcaron9999; 10-13-2016 at 09:58 AM..
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      09-15-2016, 09:14 AM   #62
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I also had to make spacers for my GC plates. I made them 10mm and had GC make the stud bracket with longer studs to accommodate for the additional thickness.

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      12-15-2017, 11:21 PM   #63
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Has anyone figured out if Swift can make custom springs? I would like to get a set of swift r springs with stiffer front spring rates to go with a set of koni yellow shocks.
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      12-17-2017, 11:54 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3k1n View Post
Has anyone figured out if Swift can make custom springs? I would like to get a set of swift r springs with stiffer front spring rates to go with a set of koni yellow shocks.
Yes, ycw can get you any Swift spring you want...

http://www.ycwsuspension.com/catalog/swift/metric
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      12-17-2017, 11:56 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3k1n View Post
Has anyone figured out if Swift can make custom springs? I would like to get a set of swift r springs with stiffer front spring rates to go with a set of koni yellow shocks.
Wouldn't going to coilovers be easier?

http://www.hpashop.com/Koni-Coilover...on-e82-e9x.htm
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      12-19-2017, 01:38 PM   #66
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I considered going with coilovers but I dont want to have to deal with the hassle and added cost of corner balancing the car. I would assume that whenever you install coil overs you would need to corner balance the car right?
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