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      12-02-2016, 01:49 PM   #1
Matticus91
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Talking First time serious detail - In Progress!

Original thread figuring everything out can be found here: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1329171



Today I decided to get started on cutting, polishing, and sealing the car. This is the first time I've done this so I've had no idea what to expect. Here are some "before" shots of the horrors my paint has endured:
Scratches from who knows what!
20161202_113427 by Matt Steele, on Flickr
The ridges on my hood have seen better days...
20161202_113551 by Matt Steele, on Flickr
This bird is dead now
20161202_113618 by Matt Steele, on Flickr
The pain
20161202_114825 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

And so it begins...


20161202_101048 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

My process as outlined in my other thread was to start with V36. It proved too difficult to work out the deeper stuff so I moved to the V34. That still wasn't "cutting" it so I moved down again to the 32 on some of the really rough stuff. I finally made progress and then worked my way up to the V36 again.

So far this is how it's looking, SUBSTANTIAL improvement on the finish. This pic below is in the same spot as the last pic above.

20161202_124959 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

In the picture below is a scratch that seems too deep for my abilities, if anyone has any input on how to tackle things like that, I'm all ears.

20161202_125049 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

Overall, pretty happy so far but pretty frustrated with seeing these deep cuts. Really want to do my best to get rid of them.

I'll finish going over the whole car with the V34 first, V32 on the nasty stuff, and then go over everything with the V36 to clear it up. I don't think I'll bother with the V38 just yet, unless I think I have the time to do the CQuartz right after. Otherwise that will wait for the weekend.
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      12-02-2016, 03:36 PM   #2
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Nice results. If your fingernail catches on those deeper scratches, it's through the clear/paint and no amount of buffing will be able to bring that back.
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      12-02-2016, 04:37 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suspenceful View Post
Nice results. If your fingernail catches on those deeper scratches, it's through the clear/paint and no amount of buffing will be able to bring that back.
I had a scratch that I could feel with my fingernail and my detailer did some wet sanding to remove it. He also used a paint depth gauge to insure he wasn't going too deep. The scratch came out completely.
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      12-05-2016, 08:30 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suspenceful View Post
Nice results. If your fingernail catches on those deeper scratches, it's through the clear/paint and no amount of buffing will be able to bring that back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Esteban View Post
I had a scratch that I could feel with my fingernail and my detailer did some wet sanding to remove it. He also used a paint depth gauge to insure he wasn't going too deep. The scratch came out completely.
I can't even feel these, I've tried that test so many times on all of these scratches and I can't feel a single bit of it. So I know it's not that deep at all but for some reason I'm having a really hard time getting to them. All of the swirls are gone, which is great, but now these really stick out.

Also, I'm seeing some little "crescent" shaped scratches that look very much to be caused by the buffer itself. I need to do a serious procedure check before I continue, this is too much work to end up not happy with the results!!
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      12-05-2016, 08:34 AM   #5
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Looking much better!

I agree - those defects look like they have not penetrated the clear coat, which means you would be able to remove them with a more aggressive approach. A DA polisher and foam pads does not stand a chance against these types of defects. The purpose of the process you're performing is to remove swirl marks and light/moderate scratches. What you're showing would be more in the "deep" scratch range... this is all relative though becuse when we talk about deep scratches in a detailing sense, that means they are still within the clear coat (ie repairable), but deeper than what you'd commonly find from improper washing and drying. In this case, sanding would be the likely solution.

If you don't feel comfortable doing that at this point, I would recommend taking some time to read up on spot wet sanding to see if it is something you think you can tackle on your own. The risk/reward with removing RIDS (random isolated deeper scratches) on a Daily Driven vehicle is not usually worth it to me personally. If the scratches are clearly visible in normal daylight, then perhaps you would like to remove those. However if they are only easily visible under inspection lighting, there is no major benefit to removing them. Preserving the clear coat around the scratch is of more value IMO.

If you would like more information, I would be happy to help.



The crescent shaped scratches you're referring to are the result of some sort of contaminant being trapped between the surface of the pad and the paint. The tiny particle (dirt, tiny rock, other debris) then scratches the paint until it is released from beneath the pad. This is why it is extremely important to continuously clean the pad after each section, and to make sure your paint is perfectly clean before you begin the correction process.

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      12-05-2016, 10:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg@DetailedImage View Post
Looking much better!

I agree - those defects look like they have not penetrated the clear coat, which means you would be able to remove them with a more aggressive approach. A DA polisher and foam pads does not stand a chance against these types of defects. The purpose of the process you're performing is to remove swirl marks and light/moderate scratches. What you're showing would be more in the "deep" scratch range... this is all relative though becuse when we talk about deep scratches in a detailing sense, that means they are still within the clear coat (ie repairable), but deeper than what you'd commonly find from improper washing and drying. In this case, sanding would be the likely solution.

If you don't feel comfortable doing that at this point, I would recommend taking some time to read up on spot wet sanding to see if it is something you think you can tackle on your own. The risk/reward with removing RIDS (random isolated deeper scratches) on a Daily Driven vehicle is not usually worth it to me personally. If the scratches are clearly visible in normal daylight, then perhaps you would like to remove those. However if they are only easily visible under inspection lighting, there is no major benefit to removing them. Preserving the clear coat around the scratch is of more value IMO.

If you would like more information, I would be happy to help.



The crescent shaped scratches you're referring to are the result of some sort of contaminant being trapped between the surface of the pad and the paint. The tiny particle (dirt, tiny rock, other debris) then scratches the paint until it is released from beneath the pad. This is why it is extremely important to continuously clean the pad after each section, and to make sure your paint is perfectly clean before you begin the correction process.

-Zach
Thanks Zach I'll try and be more cautious with the cleaning and I'll just have to learn to deal with the deeper scratches I suppose. It's really unfortunate since the car's paint was in such great shape prior to shipping overseas!
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      12-05-2016, 08:45 PM   #7
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Good progress.

I had to deal with this. This place on the bottom of the doors is the worst on the car if you don't have a small pad, which I didn't so had to bail after I got rid of 70% of them.





I'll have to do a paint correction next year to freshen it up a bit again. There are some "love marks" here and there.
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      12-06-2016, 10:26 AM   #8
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Excellent work so far! How are you liking that DA orbital buffer?

I'm about to embark on the journey of figuring this all out for myself as well. I've been weighing out the costs of just hiring someone to clay/polish/wax versus purchasing the supplies and doing it myself, but I think the DIY method and gaining the knowledge to do it again in the future is the route I'll be taking.
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      12-06-2016, 12:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swagon View Post
Good progress.

I had to deal with this. This place on the bottom of the doors is the worst on the car if you don't have a small pad, which I didn't so had to bail after I got rid of 70% of them.

I'll have to do a paint correction next year to freshen it up a bit again. There are some "love marks" here and there.
Haven't gotten down there just yet, still working on the whole top surface. It's a very slow process when you only have an hour here and there to work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chadillac2000 View Post
Excellent work so far! How are you liking that DA orbital buffer?

I'm about to embark on the journey of figuring this all out for myself as well. I've been weighing out the costs of just hiring someone to clay/polish/wax versus purchasing the supplies and doing it myself, but I think the DIY method and gaining the knowledge to do it again in the future is the route I'll be taking.
Thanks man, I'm really happy with the Torqx DA so far. It's very easy to use and seems very well built. Since it's a DA with a safety built in it's virtually impossible to F-up your paint too which is great for me.

I had the same mental debate of whether to pay someone to do this or just get the stuff and do it myself. Seeing as how I got the whole kit for $76 I am very happy with my decision. However it takes a TON of time and effort, so make sure you're willing to really work at it before you invest in the equipment.

Also, make sure to manage your expectations, I'm learning to deal with the fact that even after all my hard work there are still many scratches I can't (and shouldn't) reach. It's a painful realization to have
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      12-06-2016, 01:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadillac2000 View Post
I've been weighing out the costs of just hiring someone to clay/polish/wax versus purchasing the supplies and doing it myself, but I think the DIY method and gaining the knowledge to do it again in the future is the route I'll be taking.
You've hit the nail on the head there... if you're the kind of person who enjoys learning about how to DIY and will gain some satisfaction from completing a project on your own, then detailing is a great hobby to pick up on!

Paint Correction work, like most in-depth skills, is something that you can learn the basics of pretty quickly... but you really get good at it with practice, repetition, and by overcoming new challenges.

Think of a famous artist... do you think the first time he picked up a pencil he was able to sketch the Mona Lisa? Highly doubtful... but with practice, practice, and a little bit of practice, his 100th attempt was probably wayyyy better than his 1st attempt.

Take some time to research products, tools, and techniques, then just go for it. Your first time will not be perfect, but there is no shame in that by any means! You will learn more as you go... in fact, I would bet that by the time you are finished with your own car, you will be feeling pretty comfortable with the basics of handling a DA machine and working through the correction process.

Remember we have a couple of great resources in the Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog where professionals like myself write helpful articles and product reviews, and also in the Detailed Image Detailing Guide that walks you through the entire process and includes links to products.

... and you can always reach me directly via PM through the forum if you need anything that you cannot find on our site

Best of luck!

-Zach
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