BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      05-28-2010, 10:46 AM   #1
ulrichd
Colonel
ulrichd's Avatar
United_States
211
Rep
2,233
Posts

Drives: 128i M-Sport
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Houston, TX

iTrader: (6)

iCarbon lip install tips

Since many of us are about to get our new iCarbon lips I have given some thought to the best way to install them.

Looking at the pic from iCarbon's posts, getting the up facing tape and rear facing tape to "bite" in the right position at the same time will be impossible.

Here's my idea. After checking fit, cleaning and degreasing the mounting areas:
- Remove several 1" wide areas of the rear facing mounting tape, evenly spaced, just two per side. Mark these areas with tape on the OUTside of the lip.
- Remove just the up facing tape backing and install the lip from below.
- Insert some narrow spacers wrapped in soft cloth between the lip and the bumper cover. Locate them in the areas where you have removed the mounting tape.
- In the gap, use teezers or another pointy instrument, to remove the mounting tape of the rear facing tape. Remove the spacers.

This will make more sense with pics. I'll post my install when I get the lip on June 2.
Attached Images
 
Appreciate 0
      05-28-2010, 11:25 AM   #2
JohnL135I
Donkey Kong King
United_States
89
Rep
1,129
Posts

Drives: 2012 Boss 302
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sahuarita, AZ

iTrader: (3)

My plan is to use two squirt bottles, one with soap and water, one with alcohol. I'll spray the nose down with the soap and water and place the lip in place and position as needed, then follow with a spay of the alcohol and allow the tape to set. This worked well on the rear spoiler. May or may not work with the lip, but this is my plan, if I ever receive the lip
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Appreciate 0
      05-28-2010, 11:55 AM   #3
onefastman
Major General
159
Rep
5,689
Posts

Drives: 2009 135i 2011 e92m dct
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Earth

iTrader: (15)

Heres a v1 pic

I used 3m tape, alcohol to clean it, and heated the bumper up before (but it was cold out then so just let it bake in the sun).
Attached Images
 
__________________
Legal Disclaimer: Anything I or anyone else says about my vehicle on this website(1addicts.com or any affiliated or nonaffiliated sites), pertaining to modifications, is only to gain acceptance from my/our peers, and does not actually represent anything actually existing on my car, and thus, cannot be held against me in any issues, i.e. warranty claims, that may arise.
Appreciate 0
      05-28-2010, 12:40 PM   #4
Luvmybmw
One Fast 1
Luvmybmw's Avatar
United_States
53
Rep
747
Posts

Drives: '08 AW e82
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Indiana

iTrader: (2)

Looks good!
Appreciate 0
      06-02-2010, 11:09 PM   #5
iCARBON DESIGN
Lieutenant
iCARBON DESIGN's Avatar
61
Rep
400
Posts

Drives: 135i
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Florida

iTrader: (0)

Ok, so first thing, I would reaaallllyyyy suggest against using betalink! That stuff is gross, and impossible to take off.

We are working on the DIY, it's a long one, but I'll have it done as soon as humanly possible.

Trust us, we have installed this thing a billion times over, and it fits perfectly on every corner; you just need to have a little know-how on how the lip attaches.

Just a few tips as of right now until I get to the office:

* Try the thicker tape counterpart you can buy at Home Depot or other home improvement stores. It's the 3M Heavy Duty tape with the red backing. Since it's thicker, it will create more surface area to attach to the car. Wherever you double/triple stack the tape do the same, only with the thicker/stronger brother of the tape we sent. The tape we sent is fine, but sometimes this one works a little better.

* Prior to installing, you must remove all wax/oil/other residues from the bumper or 3M tape will not be anywhere near it's max sticking potential. The way to do this is wash the bumper, and use a 50/50 mix of Isopropyl alcohol and water. Spray it on the areas where the lip will go, and dry it off.

* USE TWO PEOPLE to install the lip - this is almost a must! It's the best way to gauge where each side is lining up, find the sweet spot, and press.

* Start with the middle. Line it up on each corner, and when it lines up to the edges on either side of the bumper, press the middle into place. Put some painters tape (with some pressure) from under the lip to the bumper to hold it in place and let the tape cure.

* Next, whether you start with the middle or not, you NEED to install the sides or "fangs" as follows. You need to make sure the front or face of the "fang" makes contact with the bumper and the part that goes under the car in that same area DOES NOT STICK. Once the lip goes as far toward the car and up as it can, then stick on the part that goes on the underside of the car. Why? Because it's our experience that sometimes when those ends don't line up, it's because the underside sticks first, and sticks out too far toward the front of the car. This then prevents the "fang" from going up against the car, and creates a gap there, as well as on the corner where the screw hole is. It could help to have someone pull the underside of the lip down so it doesn't make contact, and then push the "fang" toward the car. When it's as far as it goes and the tape is making contact, then allow the underside to make contact with the underside of the bumper, and make sure it's pushed back as far as possible.

* Also, make sure that all your tape lines are as close to the edges as possible without being noticed.

* When you get it right (and you'll know), the screws holes literally line up perfectly with no needing to move anything around or forcing anything into place. With a little practice this lip installs in 5-10 minutes easy, and just pops right into place.

* Another little tip for those who have the middle on good and the lip is showing a little gap by the fangs, don't remove the whole lip! Only remove the sides, or "fangs" (one side at a time) by pulling them downward. Once you have them disattached from the car, have a buddy hold that side down while you fix the tape that is on the part that attaches to the UNDERSIDE of the bumper. Straighten it (if it bunched up) or better yet peel it back and put fresh tap there. Then, both of you push toward the bumper and make sure the part that grabs the underside only grabs on to the bumper when it cannot go any further back. This will eliminate any and all gaps. Once this is done, put the screw back on, and repeat on the other side if needed.

**** Videos coming, so it makes it a little easier to understand.

Don't over think it, with a good DIY video, you guys will have this 100% fitted in 10 minutes.

- Andy
Appreciate 0
      06-04-2010, 05:34 PM   #6
infinitekidM2C
Major General
infinitekidM2C's Avatar
United_States
4216
Rep
5,730
Posts

Drives: 2019 M2 Competition
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Orange County, CA

iTrader: (4)

Garage List
Will the DIY be up by Saturday?
Appreciate 0
      06-05-2010, 03:58 PM   #7
ulrichd
Colonel
ulrichd's Avatar
United_States
211
Rep
2,233
Posts

Drives: 128i M-Sport
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Houston, TX

iTrader: (6)

Quote:
Originally Posted by iCARBON DESIGN View Post
Ok, so first thing, I would reaaallllyyyy suggest against using betalink! That stuff is gross, and impossible to take off.

We are working on the DIY, it's a long one, but I'll have it done as soon as humanly possible.

Trust us, we have installed this thing a billion times over, and it fits perfectly on every corner; you just need to have a little know-how on how the lip attaches.

Just a few tips as of right now until I get to the office:

* Try the thicker tape counterpart you can buy at Home Depot or other home improvement stores. It's the 3M Heavy Duty tape with the red backing. Since it's thicker, it will create more surface area to attach to the car. Wherever you double/triple stack the tape do the same, only with the thicker/stronger brother of the tape we sent. The tape we sent is fine, but sometimes this one works a little better.

* Prior to installing, you must remove all wax/oil/other residues from the bumper or 3M tape will not be anywhere near it's max sticking potential. The way to do this is wash the bumper, and use a 50/50 mix of Isopropyl alcohol and water. Spray it on the areas where the lip will go, and dry it off.

* USE TWO PEOPLE to install the lip - this is almost a must! It's the best way to gauge where each side is lining up, find the sweet spot, and press.

* Start with the middle. Line it up on each corner, and when it lines up to the edges on either side of the bumper, press the middle into place. Put some painters tape (with some pressure) from under the lip to the bumper to hold it in place and let the tape cure.

* Next, whether you start with the middle or not, you NEED to install the sides or "fangs" as follows. You need to make sure the front or face of the "fang" makes contact with the bumper and the part that goes under the car in that same area DOES NOT STICK. Once the lip goes as far toward the car and up as it can, then stick on the part that goes on the underside of the car. Why? Because it's our experience that sometimes when those ends don't line up, it's because the underside sticks first, and sticks out too far toward the front of the car. This then prevents the "fang" from going up against the car, and creates a gap there, as well as on the corner where the screw hole is. It could help to have someone pull the underside of the lip down so it doesn't make contact, and then push the "fang" toward the car. When it's as far as it goes and the tape is making contact, then allow the underside to make contact with the underside of the bumper, and make sure it's pushed back as far as possible.

* Also, make sure that all your tape lines are as close to the edges as possible without being noticed.

* When you get it right (and you'll know), the screws holes literally line up perfectly with no needing to move anything around or forcing anything into place. With a little practice this lip installs in 5-10 minutes easy, and just pops right into place.

* Another little tip for those who have the middle on good and the lip is showing a little gap by the fangs, don't remove the whole lip! Only remove the sides, or "fangs" (one side at a time) by pulling them downward. Once you have them disattached from the car, have a buddy hold that side down while you fix the tape that is on the part that attaches to the UNDERSIDE of the bumper. Straighten it (if it bunched up) or better yet peel it back and put fresh tap there. Then, both of you push toward the bumper and make sure the part that grabs the underside only grabs on to the bumper when it cannot go any further back. This will eliminate any and all gaps. Once this is done, put the screw back on, and repeat on the other side if needed.

**** Videos coming, so it makes it a little easier to understand.

Don't over think it, with a good DIY video, you guys will have this 100% fitted in 10 minutes.

- Andy
Andy,
That's fine in theory, but after spending 2 weekday evenings and the better part of today doing two install attempts I still have gaps. You can only push the lip back so far until the edge pieces stop you from going further. On mine the edge bends are in the wrong place for the shape of the bumper. The sides hit before the front is flush (see second pic). I double up the tape in the forward facing areas and let it sit over night, taped up. Within one hour it had pulled apart. Very, very, VERY frustrated at this point
Attached Images
  
Appreciate 0
      06-05-2010, 04:14 PM   #8
AchtungF80
Brigadier General
AchtungF80's Avatar
Philippines
279
Rep
3,465
Posts

Drives: 997.2 GT3, '17 G30
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: NJ

iTrader: (2)

Garage List
2008 135is  [9.50]
2010 Cooper S  [10.00]
1991 318is  [10.00]
Ulrichd,

I just completed install attempt part 2 with a friend.
We decided to leave the center area untaped, and focused on doubling up on the left and right uppers and single layer on lowers. No matter what we did, there was still tiny gap in the center but the sides were flush. The center is nearly flush. We did one side at a time, then actually replaced the 8mm bolt screws with 10mm bolt screws and receivers.

One of us would push till flush on each corner while the other tightened the new 10mm bolt. The act of doing this made the sides and corners pull flush with the bumper. After 5hrs, its still holding up, I have painters tape all over like you had for the overnight setting.

Pics to follow.
__________________
ig: 0verrev

Last edited by AchtungF80; 06-05-2010 at 07:39 PM..
Appreciate 0
      06-05-2010, 05:40 PM   #9
ulrichd
Colonel
ulrichd's Avatar
United_States
211
Rep
2,233
Posts

Drives: 128i M-Sport
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Houston, TX

iTrader: (6)

Not a bad idea leaving the center untaped as it determines how close the wings can move to the body. I have also added some addtl. bolts to the ends for better alignment. Thanks for the tip.
Appreciate 0
      06-05-2010, 07:36 PM   #10
AchtungF80
Brigadier General
AchtungF80's Avatar
Philippines
279
Rep
3,465
Posts

Drives: 997.2 GT3, '17 G30
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: NJ

iTrader: (2)

Garage List
2008 135is  [9.50]
2010 Cooper S  [10.00]
1991 318is  [10.00]
Pics as promised...you be the judge!











My tips: test fit, test fit, test fit!!!! We kept lining up the lip till we were 100% sure we had enough tape on upper right/left sides was making GOOD contact with the bumper before we pulled the backing off.

I did not use water/soap combo...just straight adhesive, a friend and did one side at a time. Afterwards, bolted both sides down with 10mm, not the stock 8mm bolt-screws, while the other held the lip flush to the bumper.

As a precautionary measure, I used painters tape as shown to support and apply pressure to the lip while the tape sets. Its humid and 90+ deg F today in NJ so it should help with the setting process.
__________________
ig: 0verrev
Appreciate 0
      06-06-2010, 10:23 AM   #11
ulrichd
Colonel
ulrichd's Avatar
United_States
211
Rep
2,233
Posts

Drives: 128i M-Sport
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Houston, TX

iTrader: (6)

Glad it's working out for you Frank. I managed to install the entire M-body kit to my 128 (front bumper including the fog light switchover, back bumper and side skirts) without any problems but this little piece of plastic (sorry, carbon) will not fit properly.

I might try a third time with the center not attached, as per your method, when I cool down a bit.
Appreciate 0
      06-07-2010, 11:30 AM   #12
Chris@iCARBON
Second Lieutenant
Chris@iCARBON's Avatar
11
Rep
295
Posts

Drives: Honda
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Florida

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ulrichd View Post
Glad it's working out for you Frank. I managed to install the entire M-body kit to my 128 (front bumper including the fog light switchover, back bumper and side skirts) without any problems but this little piece of plastic (sorry, carbon) will not fit properly.

I might try a third time with the center not attached, as per your method, when I cool down a bit.
As Andy stated in another post, you must let the center portion of the lip sit slightly under the bumper as seen in Achtung's pictures. In your install it seems that its sitting right at the edge of the bumper which is causing your ends to want to come forward. We did this so that it is more of a seamless fit.
__________________
Appreciate 0
      06-10-2010, 01:19 AM   #13
Eyeman
Colonel
Eyeman's Avatar
122
Rep
2,040
Posts

Drives: 2008 135 blk, blk, step
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
I just spent a couple of hours on mine and I'm sure I will not be satisfied and will start again tomorrow.

It seemed easy except getting the bolt to hold when I test fitted. I decided to go for it and even started trying to use the stock bolt and to do it by myself. After around 20 minutes I decided to pull it off and double up the top tape and go to a bigger bolt/screw. This helped but I think I'll still have too many areas where my tape really isn't touching enough to stick.

Tomorrow I'll need more tape so I'll pick up the thickest stuff I can find and basically make a try to go about 3 times as thick as what originally came on the lip (just at the top, the bottom sticks fine. I'll also try harder to not let the bottom catch and get it back as far as possible which might help angle the top so I don't need such thick tape.

So basically don't even try it without bigger screws and much thicker tape along the top of the lip.
__________________
Injen, RR OCC, MadDad Whisper, donut spare, 19x8.5et43fr 19x9.5et45r Volk LE37's, rear fenders rolled/pulled, PSS4S 225/35fr 255/30r, KW V1's, AR coated catless dps, Cross strutbar, CF grills and license plate holder, iCarbon diffuser, ETS black anodized FMIC, M3 control arms, Quaife, ER chargepipe, ForgeDV's, Topspeed Custom Tune, V3sims, Braille, Andrey_GTA rear hub mod, Ebay Mstyle front bumper and performance style side skirts.
Appreciate 0
      06-10-2010, 10:35 AM   #14
Eyeman
Colonel
Eyeman's Avatar
122
Rep
2,040
Posts

Drives: 2008 135 blk, blk, step
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
Yep, I had too much gap in the center and a few other areas this AM and pulled if off. I reinstalled and got it on a little crooked and lower but it seems to be holding better. I now I have a little gap in the passenger side corner but this should be satisfactory enough to stick with.
__________________
Injen, RR OCC, MadDad Whisper, donut spare, 19x8.5et43fr 19x9.5et45r Volk LE37's, rear fenders rolled/pulled, PSS4S 225/35fr 255/30r, KW V1's, AR coated catless dps, Cross strutbar, CF grills and license plate holder, iCarbon diffuser, ETS black anodized FMIC, M3 control arms, Quaife, ER chargepipe, ForgeDV's, Topspeed Custom Tune, V3sims, Braille, Andrey_GTA rear hub mod, Ebay Mstyle front bumper and performance style side skirts.
Appreciate 0
      06-10-2010, 11:12 AM   #15
infinitekidM2C
Major General
infinitekidM2C's Avatar
United_States
4216
Rep
5,730
Posts

Drives: 2019 M2 Competition
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Orange County, CA

iTrader: (4)

Garage List
I know this is a lot to ask but can you provide kind of a list of things you used for the install like 1) 3m Super Heavy duty tape Part no. xyxuxudfd; 2) 10 mm bolt from Home Depot that is 3 in long...etc.
Appreciate 0
      06-10-2010, 03:39 PM   #16
Eyeman
Colonel
Eyeman's Avatar
122
Rep
2,040
Posts

Drives: 2008 135 blk, blk, step
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
I just used a pair of phillips head screws and washers that I had laying around, they were probably an inch long and a little thicker threaded than the stock bolts. I bought some of my 3M tape at Advance Auto and some of the same stuff but it wasn't labeled 3M from Pep Boys. Most was the half inch wide stuff but I found one short roll of the inch wide stuff. The rolls are like $4 vs $8 with more than twice I'm sure on the bigger roll. I'd buy one big roll of the wide stuff if I could find it that way. I only found interior two sided tape when I looked in Home Depot. Hopefully someone will have better specifics.
__________________
Injen, RR OCC, MadDad Whisper, donut spare, 19x8.5et43fr 19x9.5et45r Volk LE37's, rear fenders rolled/pulled, PSS4S 225/35fr 255/30r, KW V1's, AR coated catless dps, Cross strutbar, CF grills and license plate holder, iCarbon diffuser, ETS black anodized FMIC, M3 control arms, Quaife, ER chargepipe, ForgeDV's, Topspeed Custom Tune, V3sims, Braille, Andrey_GTA rear hub mod, Ebay Mstyle front bumper and performance style side skirts.
Appreciate 0
      06-18-2010, 12:23 AM   #17
BMW86
Major General
Australia
398
Rep
9,156
Posts

Drives: RS3 Sedan / Macan S
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Australia

iTrader: (0)

Bump for DIY video from icarbon.
Appreciate 0
      06-18-2010, 10:01 PM   #18
2010AW135i
Private First Class
14
Rep
161
Posts

Drives: AW 135i
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Hawaii

iTrader: (2)

tried to do mine today.....the screws on the ends are way too short, i couldnt even get it to start threading in..... gonna need 2 longer screws for sure.

i wonder if i can just get longer screws instead of having to do the hassle of replacing the reciever side inside the bumper?
__________________
2010 BMW 135i
Appreciate 0
      06-18-2010, 11:55 PM   #19
thez99
Colonel
thez99's Avatar
United_States
154
Rep
2,757
Posts

Drives: 2017 Audi A4
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Arden, NC

iTrader: (5)

Garage List
2013 BMW 135i  [0.00]
Might as well name this thread "Why not to bother with this mod unless u have ass-loads of time on your hands"

I sure as shit wouldnt wanna deal with this..
Appreciate 0
      06-19-2010, 08:57 AM   #20
AchtungF80
Brigadier General
AchtungF80's Avatar
Philippines
279
Rep
3,465
Posts

Drives: 997.2 GT3, '17 G30
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: NJ

iTrader: (2)

Garage List
2008 135is  [9.50]
2010 Cooper S  [10.00]
1991 318is  [10.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by thez99 View Post
Might as well name this thread "Why not to bother with this mod unless u have ass-loads of time on your hands"

I sure as shit wouldnt wanna deal with this..
Then pay someone to do it!
It took me and a friend the better part of 45 minutes.
The most time consuming part was effectively putting enough tape in the right places.
__________________
ig: 0verrev
Appreciate 0
      06-19-2010, 08:28 PM   #21
2010AW135i
Private First Class
14
Rep
161
Posts

Drives: AW 135i
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Hawaii

iTrader: (2)

bought some #10 sheet metal screws in 3/4" length with some 7/8" fender washers and its now mounted to my car. hopefully it stays mounted.

i wish there were more then just 2 screws holding it on. it would have been nice to have 2 more mounting points near the center.
__________________
2010 BMW 135i
Appreciate 0
      06-19-2010, 08:40 PM   #22
BMW86
Major General
Australia
398
Rep
9,156
Posts

Drives: RS3 Sedan / Macan S
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010AW135i View Post
bought some #10 sheet metal screws in 3/4" length with some 7/8" fender washers and its now mounted to my car. hopefully it stays mounted.

i wish there were more then just 2 screws holding it on. it would have been nice to have 2 more mounting points near the center.
+ 1 on having more screws. It would give me more piece of mind if we had 2 more screws located closer to the center and it would help keep the center part flush too. I want to attempt this install asap but waiting on the DIY videos. for now.
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:41 AM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST