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      09-29-2015, 08:04 AM   #23
dcaron9999
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Originally Posted by _Ryan_ View Post
You have my attention! I've crumbled pads in the past but a visual inspection of the piston & boot had me thinking they were OK. Everything is a bit squeaky and it reminds me of something sticking- once I tap the brakes the noise will go away for a little while.

Keep me posted!
Have you tried cleaning all the contact points between your brake pads and your caliper (tooth brush and brake cleaner), and applying a very thin coat of quality high temp synthetic grease? Perhaps, your brake pads are expanding due to excessive heat in them (over their designed operating range). Are you using Ti heat shields? These will keep more heat in the pads. What pads do you use and how often do you inspect and clean your brake calipers/pads? Have you inspected the top portion of your piston surface (short section above the cylinder seal) for wear or grime? One way to do this is to stick a block of wood between your pads, and exert pressure on your brake pedal (jam a piece of wood between bottom of seat and brake pedal if you are doing this alone).
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts

Last edited by dcaron9999; 09-29-2015 at 08:25 AM..
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      09-29-2015, 08:46 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Perhaps, your brake pads are expanding due to excessive heat in them (over their designed operating range). Are you using Ti heat shields?
P.Mu HC+
They run wider than OEM, significantly wider than the crumbled Stoptech I took out.
Using shields.
Might need to machine the backing plates down slightly.
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      10-01-2015, 11:57 AM   #25
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Put the RB pistons/seals/boots to the test yesterday evening. Did one lapping session at the track. Braking is much smoother, predictable, and stronger throughout the session. No sign of fade. No sticky pistons or squeaking when I exited the track ...

It was a cold evening though, at around 10*C/50*F, so plenty of cool air directed to the brake rotor center via my custom ducts ...

I need to gravity bleed the calipers (did various combination and cycles of bleeds with Motive PB, and still not totally happy with brake pedal sinking when I get into ABS). I ordered Russell speed bleeder screws, and new brake fluid. Will install these and do a few more rounds of gravity bleeds as soon as I get a chance.

I will report back...
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Last edited by dcaron9999; 10-02-2015 at 02:11 PM..
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      10-02-2015, 01:12 PM   #26
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Yesterday, discovered the largest RB piston in the front caliper is starting to stick... However, the stock pressure seals were reused when rebuilding because the updated RB seals weren't ready at the time. Maybe it's time to install the RB seals. Although the stock seals physically appeared fine, I'm guessing now they might've been a bit hardened or brittle for reuse.

Also only used brake fluid to lube the seals and pistons during the rebuild. The supplied grease wasn't used.
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      10-02-2015, 08:15 PM   #27
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Also only used brake fluid to lube the seals and pistons during the rebuild. The supplied grease wasn't used.
Brake fluid is ok to lubricate the seal but doesn't do a good job lubricating the piston outboard of the seal, which is where galling between the piston and the caliper occurs. I use Permatex Ceramic Brake Lube in this area. This lube is compatible with brake fluid and it contains solid lubricant particles that won't get cooked or squeezed out like conventional brake greases will.

I regrease the front pistons annually along with a dust boot change so I can see how it is working. The "greasyness" gets cooked out of the lubricant, but the solids that are left behind still lubricate the piston.

That and a couple of other related hints are shown toward the end of this post:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=37
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      10-08-2015, 11:04 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by fe1rx View Post
Brake fluid is ok to lubricate the seal but doesn't do a good job lubricating the piston outboard of the seal, which is where galling between the piston and the caliper occurs. I use Permatex Ceramic Brake Lube in this area. This lube is compatible with brake fluid and it contains solid lubricant particles that won't get cooked or squeezed out like conventional brake greases will.

I regrease the front pistons annually along with a dust boot change so I can see how it is working. The "greasyness" gets cooked out of the lubricant, but the solids that are left behind still lubricate the piston.

That and a couple of other related hints are shown toward the end of this post:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=37
Alright, I was hoping for a full rebuild but funds are getting tight. I have a track weekend coming up and was thinking of just replacing the dust boots on the stock pistons with RB dust boots. So my question is can this be done without removing the piston entirely?

I have melted my stock dust boots but im fairly confident the pistons arent chipped or cracked, and I have solid braking performance, so maybe the full rebuild including new seals is overkill at the moment?

I was concerned something might damage the seal if the dust boots are left in current condition... Is this valid?

With only one more track weekend before the new year I'd prefer to defer the 600+ expense until after Christmas...

Any help or input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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      10-08-2015, 11:22 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by 135TX View Post
Alright, I was hoping for a full rebuild but funds are getting tight. I have a track weekend coming up and was thinking of just replacing the dust boots on the stock pistons with RB dust boots. So my question is can this be done without removing the piston entirely?

I have melted my stock dust boots but im fairly confident the pistons arent chipped or cracked, and I have solid braking performance, so maybe the full rebuild including new seals is overkill at the moment?

I was concerned something might damage the seal if the dust boots are left in current condition... Is this valid?

With only one more track weekend before the new year I'd prefer to defer the 600+ expense until after Christmas...

Any help or input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
I dont think changing the seals without a full piston removal will be possible unfortunately. The only thing you can do is clean the tops of the pistons while they are protuding, and re-grease the tops. The dust boot swap is all you can do without removing the pistons ...
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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      10-08-2015, 11:36 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
I dont think changing the seals without a full piston removal will be possible unfortunately. The only thing you can do is clean the tops of the pistons while they are protuding, and re-grease the tops. The dust boot swap is all you can do without removing the pistons ...
Yeah I was thinking of just doing the dust boots, greasing exposed pistons and then the normal fluid flush.

I guess more to get more technical how would i go about removing those boots without having the piston out? will it be straightforward?

Can I clean the tops and protruding portion of pistons ( including where the dust boots are) with brake cleaner?
Then lightly coat everything with high temp silacone/ceramic grease
This is what I have- http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/c...ntent=10889812

I just dont want to screw up my brakes without having the spare components for replacement...
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You'll never regret pursuing what you really want....ever. You will, however, regret NOT doing things you wanted to do.
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      10-08-2015, 02:41 PM   #31
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Also anyone wanna throw me some torque specs on caliper bolts & brake lines? That would be phenomenal
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      05-30-2017, 03:53 PM   #32
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Titanium pistons for BMW rear caliper. 46mm
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      11-18-2018, 08:13 AM   #33
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dcaron9999 how are the pistons and boots holding up to your abuse? My factory ones are shot and i need to decide on RB or stoptech (leaning towards RB and hoping the chroming fixed the leaking issues) or spend way more money on a BBK.

Thanks
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      06-07-2019, 09:15 AM   #34
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Just my 2c, I went with Stoptech have run 3 track days 2 at mid-Ohio and 1 at NJMP Lightning. I'll put it this way using the new pistons and Hawk DTC 60 pads, with much higher brake temps... I assume this because the calipers turned grey to a goldish color. The stoptech pistons and seals are holding up well.
The black crust is from the back coating on the pads steel plate not the pistons or seals themselves.
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      08-30-2019, 08:35 AM   #35
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Hi I was hoping I could get some input from some of you experts. I have had about 5 track days on my stock 135i front caliper pistons and boots. I've been experiencing vibration while on the brakes at higher speeds. I have replaced the pads and rotors multiple times and the problem manages to come back every time. Could the issue be due to the stock caliper pistons sticking and causing uneven pressure on the pads therefore uneven wear on the pads?
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      08-30-2019, 12:58 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3k1n View Post
Hi I was hoping I could get some input from some of you experts. I have had about 5 track days on my stock 135i front caliper pistons and boots. I've been experiencing vibration while on the brakes at higher speeds. I have replaced the pads and rotors multiple times and the problem manages to come back every time. Could the issue be due to the stock caliper pistons sticking and causing uneven pressure on the pads therefore uneven wear on the pads?
Could be, or also might be your ceramic pistons starting to crumble a little. Or maybe a slight bend in a wheel or unbalanced tire that shows itself when you get on the brakes hard.
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