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      08-01-2019, 03:57 PM   #23
Dackelone
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Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
I'm changing my oil (128i) yearly. Try not to use the car for very short runs like going to the supermarket and I only put about 5,000 / year on the car.

Do I need to consider more frequent changes??? FWIW while under wtty BMW would only change it annually if mileage was low. (I know BMW isn't terribly concerned about my N52 lasting very long after the wtty expired)
Well... The best oil is fresh oil.

I remember talking to an old VW/Audi tech trainer years ago... someone asked him... Hey, I only drive my car ten miles to work each way... and less than 6K miles in a year. I only change my oil once a year. The VW/Audi trainer said IF it was his car... he would be changing the oil every month! True story.

This same Master Trainer(Jim Sartwell, his son's owned a famous VW Beetle tuning shop in the MD/DC area) also had a '69 Camaro... with only 200 miles on it. This was back in 1998. Jim liked to brag that his Camaro only had 200 miles. but he put them on a 1/4 mile at a time! He would drag race it and it still had it's original window sticker and protective plastic on the seats!!

Most drag racer's change their oil after each run. Oil is cheap, but a new engine isn't.

I think you should probably change your oil twice a year. Once in the Spring and once in the Fall. This is what most classic car owners do. You should also change the other fluids too like Brake, Coolant, Trans and Diff fluids too.

You want fresh oil in the engine over the winter months when you don't drive/run the car. All those short engine runs in the winter months... build up water in the oil... so that's why you should change the oil before using a car for the Spring/Summer. I know you don't store your car... but only driving 5K miles a year...

I would change the oil more than just once a year. But that's just me.

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      08-01-2019, 11:00 PM   #24
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Here's a comparison of the bottles I bought in 2018 and 2019:

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Name:  castrol-2019.jpg
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      08-02-2019, 02:39 AM   #25
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Now that is really weird...

On the US website the LL-01 standard is not listed.

CASTROL EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 (US)

On the German website its the same thing (seems we still got the old design):

CASTROL EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 (DE)

They dont even mention anything about Full Synthetic or Blend/HC anymore on the German website

On amazon, for example, it says "Teilsynthese" on the 5 liter jug and "HC-Synthese" on the 1 liter (so its blend), wtf?
The "english labeled" 4 liter jug still says Full Synthetic and seems to have the LL-01 spec listed. Guess thats why its much more expensive.

At least in the US you still get full synthetic, even though LL-01 spec is definately not listed anymore.


I just bought Motul 8100 X-max 0W-40. Not taking any risks with this untransparent mess at Castrols.

Last edited by TylerD; 08-02-2019 at 02:46 AM..
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      08-02-2019, 11:52 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Well... The best oil is fresh oil.

I remember talking to an old VW/Audi tech trainer years ago... someone asked him... Hey, I only drive my car ten miles to work each way... and less than 6K miles in a year. I only change my oil once a year. The VW/Audi trainer said IF it was his car... he would be changing the oil every month! True story.

This same Master Trainer(Jim Sartwell, his son's owned a famous VW Beetle tuning shop in the MD/DC area) also had a '69 Camaro... with only 200 miles on it. This was back in 1998. Jim liked to brag that his Camaro only had 200 miles. but he put them on a 1/4 mile at a time! He would drag race it and it still had it's original window sticker and protective plastic on the seats!!

Most drag racer's change their oil after each run. Oil is cheap, but a new engine isn't.

I think you should probably change your oil twice a year. Once in the Spring and once in the Fall. This is what most classic car owners do. You should also change the other fluids too like Brake, Coolant, Trans and Diff fluids too.

You want fresh oil in the engine over the winter months when you don't drive/run the car. All those short engine runs in the winter months... build up water in the oil... so that's why you should change the oil before using a car for the Spring/Summer. I know you don't store your car... but only driving 5K miles a year...

I would change the oil more than just once a year. But that's just me.

Dackel
Winter?!?! I slept late that day as missed it.

I'll probably shorten my interval -maybe not to 6 months - but more often than annually.
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      08-02-2019, 08:14 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerD View Post
Now that is really weird...

On the US website the LL-01 standard is not listed.

CASTROL EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 (US)

On the German website its the same thing (seems we still got the old design):

CASTROL EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 (DE)

They dont even mention anything about Full Synthetic or Blend/HC anymore on the German website

On amazon, for example, it says "Teilsynthese" on the 5 liter jug and "HC-Synthese" on the 1 liter (so its blend), wtf?
The "english labeled" 4 liter jug still says Full Synthetic and seems to have the LL-01 spec listed. Guess thats why its much more expensive.

At least in the US you still get full synthetic, even though LL-01 spec is definately not listed anymore.


I just bought Motul 8100 X-max 0W-40. Not taking any risks with this untransparent mess at Castrols.
Different laws. Same oil. In the US, they are allowed to call it "full synthetic", it Germany, they can't, because it is largely Group 3 synthetic. (Hydrocarbon based)

If you want a real full synthetic, get the Motul, which is Group 4 and Group 5. (PAO and ester). If it is called a full synthetic in Germany, it's the real deal.
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      08-02-2019, 09:05 PM   #28
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At 70K just put in 7L of Liqui-Moly 5W-30 with a fresh filter. Hope that it is as good as advertised now that Mobil 1 no longer lists BMW LL codes. Plan is to continue to change every 10K miles like I've had success with using Mobil 1.
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      08-02-2019, 10:49 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Different laws. Same oil. In the US, they are allowed to call it "full synthetic", it Germany, they can't, because it is largely Group 3 synthetic. (Hydrocarbon based)

If you want a real full synthetic, get the Motul, which is Group 4 and Group 5. (PAO and ester). If it is called a full synthetic in Germany, it's the real deal.
So is the BMW-branded synthetic the real deal?
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      08-03-2019, 05:03 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Different laws. Same oil. In the US, they are allowed to call it "full synthetic", it Germany, they can't, because it is largely Group 3 synthetic. (Hydrocarbon based)

If you want a real full synthetic, get the Motul, which is Group 4 and Group 5. (PAO and ester). If it is called a full synthetic in Germany, it's the real deal.
Makes total sense!
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      08-03-2019, 08:46 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw1racer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Different laws. Same oil. In the US, they are allowed to call it "full synthetic", it Germany, they can't, because it is largely Group 3 synthetic. (Hydrocarbon based)

If you want a real full synthetic, get the Motul, which is Group 4 and Group 5. (PAO and ester). If it is called a full synthetic in Germany, it's the real deal.
So is the BMW-branded synthetic the real deal?
It is made by Shell. They largely use a process that uses natural gas, which would make it a Group 3, or hydrocarbon based.
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      08-03-2019, 10:46 AM   #32
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http://gasprocessingnews.com/feature...tural-gas.aspx

This article was written by Shell people so a bit of an advert, but, still an interesting read. I've seen elsewhere that GTL base oils are better than other group III oils and can be as good performing as group IV.

Interesting point of the terminology is that PAO's (Group IV) are made from ethylene gas which is a hydrocarbon but still called man made.

Bunch of useless information but fun none the less.
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      08-13-2019, 09:42 PM   #33
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I made the switch to Motul and haven't looked back.
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