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      08-19-2019, 01:23 AM   #287
vtl
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Lower shock eye completed, thanks to my coworker who has a mini mill.

The flat will accept the shaft, and has a locating hole that will be used to align the parts for welding. Very happy with how the parts turned out

Next step will be to remove the shocks from the car, then remove the stick lower shock mounts. Then measure up the threads and determine the correct length for the custom shock mount.
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      08-19-2019, 02:06 AM   #288
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Looks really clean for a DIY job
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      08-19-2019, 02:36 AM   #289
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2009 BMW 335i  [5.00]
Looks great Vince

I love machining/milling/metal working for this exact reason.
You take a lump of something and turn it into something that's not only useful but aesthetically pleasing. If it was as lucrative as my current job I would never leave it
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      08-19-2019, 08:04 PM   #290
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Removed shocks from the car so I could get the lower shock mounts removed.

The KW competition rear shocks have a shock mount that is threaded onto the shock. It has some flats milled into it so it appears it can be unscrewed with a spanner. Unfortunately these are pretty stuck on and no way I could get a good enough grip on the shock body to undo the lower mounts.

I decided to TIG weld a nut onto the lower shock mount, and use an impact gun to get them off. This is risky as it is pretty much a one way trip. Luckily, this worked brilliantly and the lower mounts were gunned off with ease! I saw a lot of Loctite remnants so that explains why I couldn't get them off by hand.

Have taken the opportunity to compare to an M3 EDC shock so I can get the shock length correct, then I will fine tune the shock travel with bump stop spacers. I have come up with a new drawing so I have all the dimensions I need to complete the project.
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Last edited by vtl; 08-19-2019 at 08:36 PM..
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      08-20-2019, 05:33 PM   #291
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Cleaned up the M3 rear camber arms and got measurements from them. I ended up buying these from Schmiedmann (they also sell used stuff) and european winters are quite harsh on car parts. Took a while to clean up with a wirewheel but looks a lot better now.

To accept the ball joint in the shock mount, I'll need to machine up some M12, 6mm thick washers, not too difficult.
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      08-26-2019, 01:43 AM   #292
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Machined up the shafts for the lower shock mount. The length was carefully selected to adjust the droop and shock travel. i can then fine tune the shock travel with varying the length of the bump stop or adding in bump stop spacers.

To aid assembly, I handed the parts to my coworker to mill some flats into the shaft, similar to the standard part. This will allow me to install the shaft into the shock with a 21mm spanner.
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      09-09-2019, 06:23 PM   #293
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All parts came in for the rear monoball project!

We ended up getting 17 people in total for the monoball group buy, and with that amount of quantity we decided to get the custom washers manufactured by CNC. Got the parts at the end of last week and they turned out fantastic. The washers were made to the design specs out of stainless steel, so will be strong and resistant to corrosion.

Due to the fact that the thickness of the washer would change the geometry of the suspension slightly, I have calculated that the joints must be installed 3mm offset to maintain the factory geometry. This is fairly easy with a hydraulic press and using a pair of digital calipers.

Very happy with how this project turned out, just need to get these things installed.
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      09-09-2019, 08:42 PM   #294
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Some progress on the rear m3 shock mount conversion


I had troubles with a low quality die I purchased, so it ended up chewing up the part and ruining it! I ended up having to tig weld the part to build the material back up, and remachine the shaft again.

I also had troubles with the replacement die I received. It cut the threads very nicely but it had a lead in chamfer on both sides of the die. The chamfer is to allow the part to start easily but usually the opposite side has no chamfer, to allow you to use the die to thread all the way to a shoulder.

After visiting 2 stores and not having the obscure M16x1.0 size, I ended up machining the die I had to remove the chamfer. Was a real pain but got the part done finally.

Next step is to weld the parts then get them nickel plated.
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      Yesterday, 11:04 PM   #295
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Will be chipping away at the rear monoball install over the next week.

Having installed these on another car recently, I decided to make a bespoke tool for this job, as the universal tools were difficult to use in the small space near the trailing arms. On the first install, I dropped the subframe to allow the tool to fit onto the trailing arm joint on the subframe, this required the subframe to be dropped an excessive amount (to clear the fuel tank) and wanted to avoid that annoyance. Additionally the trailing arm joint on the knuckle is quite close to the brake disc, and removing the brake disc is required if the tool doesn't fit in the space. The rear brake disc is commonly siezed on cars that are parked out in the elements or near the beach (salty air).

I decided to tackle the trailing arm joint on the subframe side first, I cut some of the bushing cups from my universal kit with a bandsaw, and then machined up some steel end caps, welding them onto the cups. I bored out the end caps to allow the threaded rod to pass through. I reused the nut with the thrust bearing from my universal kit. These nuts really help reduce the turning friction and make installation a lot easier with hand power. I made the tools much more compact than the universal tools and it fit in the tight space near the fuel tank no issues.

The bushes pressed out easily and the new ball joints pressed in without any issues. One tip is to file a light shamfer on the leading edge of the bushing so it starts and presses in straight, this was a real problem on the prevous installs and this chamfer really makes it start 100% easy everytime.

Next up will be the trailing arm joints in the knuckle...
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