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      04-22-2019, 11:50 AM   #133
vincefreeflyer
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hey, what's new with your spherical bushings on trailing arm and camber arm?

I plan to install ball link toe and M3 guid rod on my 135I.
What do you think about this toe arm : https://www.ebay.com/itm/06-12-E90-E...cAAOSw3bBceZOl

They seem to be ball linked, cheap but maybe anybody try this ...

there is also the cheap of the cheap version : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/rear-...811057537.html
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      07-10-2019, 08:17 PM   #134
chicken Legs
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been going threw all this suspension setups looking for the best solution for my 2011 135i DCT rear end moves a lot side to side over bumps any thoughts ..I'm in canada roads arn't the best ( frost )
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      07-10-2019, 09:22 PM   #135
AndyW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicken Legs View Post
been going threw all this suspension setups looking for the best solution for my 2011 135i DCT rear end moves a lot side to side over bumps any thoughts ..I'm in canada roads arn't the best ( frost )
Upgrade the Rear Subframe Bushings (RSFB). Whiteline makes a decent 2-piece poly set.
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      07-11-2019, 09:04 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Upgrade the Rear Subframe Bushings (RSFB). Whiteline makes a decent 2-piece poly set.
This^^ plus a rear differential lockdown bracket really helps too.

Last edited by Gangplank; 07-16-2019 at 09:07 PM..
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      07-15-2019, 08:07 PM   #137
chicken Legs
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differential lockdown bracket this I have not seen I'll check it out do springs and shocks help (seen some guys raving about M sport yellow springs and koni shocks) I'm in canada so I don't what my teeth to fall out
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      07-16-2019, 05:37 PM   #138
deesea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicken Legs View Post
differential lockdown bracket this I have not seen I'll check it out do springs and shocks help (seen some guys raving about M sport yellow springs and koni shocks) I'm in canada so I don't what my teeth to fall out
Am canadian, also did the works to my e82 as well. If I were to start again, I'd probably grab some Koni yellows, dinan camber plates, stiffer rear strut mounts, and swift spec-r springs to start.

Then do the RSFB, all the M arms and an alignment (again).

If you're budget limited and you've ditched the stock Runflats, just do the RSFB and leave it until you have funds to do more (or if you even want to do more).

Skip the power mods and focus on suspension instead.

Last edited by deesea; 07-16-2019 at 05:43 PM..
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      07-19-2019, 12:51 PM   #139
chicken Legs
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I'm running MHD stage 2+ and all the supporting mods for it, adding meth (have everything just need the time) 235/40/18 MPSS 265/35/18 MPSS REAR AND RSFB inserts stock bushing with poly fillers .....yellow vs gold koni for the street ? swift spec r springs vs stock ....find the car moves around too much after hitting bumps .....bump wig-ill bump wig-ill don't what to turn it into a hay wagon.......power is nothing without control!
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      07-19-2019, 02:11 PM   #140
dtla1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicken Legs View Post
I'm running MHD stage 2+ and all the supporting mods for it, adding meth (have everything just need the time) 235/40/18 MPSS 265/35/18 MPSS REAR AND RSFB inserts stock bushing with poly fillers .....yellow vs gold koni for the street ? swift spec r springs vs stock ....find the car moves around too much after hitting bumps .....bump wig-ill bump wig-ill don't what to turn it into a hay wagon.......power is nothing without control!
I felt the inserts didn't really do much for me, get replacements. Whiteline 2 piece is on the easier side of DIY install. Other options out there though.
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      08-10-2019, 07:02 AM   #141
Angel67
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Hey guys.

We have manufactured rear toe arms for the e82 and e9x non-M. The design principle is a curved arm, but with dimensions better suited to the non-M suspension.

These are made of billet 6061-T6 aluminum and have been precision CNC machined to accept either balljoints or bushings (which can be either stock bushings or much stiffer Group N bushings, or even polyurethane bushings like those from Powerflex and other suppliers), or any combination of balljoints and bushings depending on individual preferences. They can be anodized in any colour. They can also be made either in the standard length (412 mm) or +3 mm for extra toe.

Just trying to gauge interest at this point so please reply if you might be interested in this product.

a

Stay tuned!
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Last edited by Angel67; 08-10-2019 at 07:11 AM.. Reason: Adding pic
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      08-10-2019, 10:24 AM   #142
houtan
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Do you have any idea of what the price would be?
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      08-10-2019, 04:27 PM   #143
Angel67
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I have an idea but the prices will also depend on what options are selected. Regular bushings and balljoints would be similar pricing but Group N bushings are more expensive.

But note that balljoints would provide no contribution to wheel rate while regular bushings would provide some contribution (say equivalent to 15 lb/in per bushing) while Group N would contribute by my calculations an equivalent to 56 lb/in per bushing on the toe arm.

That's the really nice thing about these arms - you can select bushings/balljoints/combination and thereby tweak your effective spring rate in increments.

On my car (e92 335xi) we just installed a set with a balljoint on one side of the arms and a Group N bushing on the other side. All 5 of my arms are bushing on one side and balljoint on the other side, like the M3 arms have.
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      08-10-2019, 05:08 PM   #144
Angel67
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So, for example, on effective spring rates:

- 2 balljoints: 0
- 1 balljoint and 1 regular bushing: 15
- 2 regular bushings: 30
- 1 balljoint and 1 Group N: 56
- 1 regular bushing and 1 Group N: 71
- 2 Group N: 112

Assuming the contribution of a full set of stock bushings is an equivalent of 109 lb/in, then that can be fully compensated with a set of MRP toe arms with 2 Group N bushings, and the other 4 arms can be only balljoints...

a

Stay tuned!
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