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      04-04-2018, 01:15 AM   #1
NinjaDog
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Aussie 135i track build on a budget

Hey guys, I sold my pride and joy a few months ago as it was a huge pain in my ass, would constantly need work done to it (replaced everything) and it was somehow going up in value so it seemed stupid to keep it as I just want something I can easily take to the track any time and wring it's neck.

Anyway, to give you an idea of that build, here's how it started:



And here's how it ended:



Anyway, a friend of mine runs a 1M in production car racing in Oz (just finished the Bathurst 6hr on the weekend) and recommended the 135i, as it was cheap, drove the right wheels and was quick. It was also apparently easy to work on (LOL we shall see) so it seemed like a good platform to start again with. The big mistake I made with the GTR was making it not suitable for the road, so I wanted something that I could tolerate driving to and from the track also. But not too comfortable.

Anyway, picked this up a few weeks ago and shipped it down from QLD (sorry about the fucking enormous picture)



It's a 2008 BMW 135i MSport with a 6 speed manual. I have NFI what the MSport stuff is but it's got a silly screen which goes up and down and and auxiliary port that doesn't work but other than that it's an absolute ball tearer and I love it.
It also came with an OBD2 cable so I plan on using an MHD flash tune and mucked around with the data logging and monitor stuff which is awesome.

So far I haven't done much other than buy parts, but this is what I have bought:

- KW Clubsport 2ways w/camber plates
- Wilwood Aero6 BBK
- Wagner Evo2 intercooler
- CSP High Performance Aluminum Radiator
- Storm Motorwerks shift knob
- 2 x OEM 18x8.5 rims (going to run a 245 square setup to begin with)

and what's next on the shopping list:

- Tyres (haven't decided on brand but want something similar to Fed RSRR in 245/40/18 sqaure)
- Down pipes and charge pipe (tossing up between VRSF or an AliExpress special )
- Oil Cooler(s) -Interested to see how the rad keeps the heat down before investing. Ultimate is ER dual setup but seems like overkill and super expensive
- Half Cage & seats (down the line when the car is sorted)
- Diff Lockout bracket or welded

Anyway, just thought I would get this thread started as I have a skid pan day next week and am looking forward to shaking it down.

The real focus of this car is seat time. I want it to be reasonably quick, but also super reliable and kept relatively stock other than supporting mods and suspension. The end goal will be a sorted track car that doesn't give me the shits every time I want to take it out.
Also I need practice for my other race car which I'll tell you guys about later

Let the fun begin!

Last edited by NinjaDog; 10-08-2018 at 11:52 PM..
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      04-05-2018, 08:44 AM   #2
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Welcome the track section. You are going to need more tire!
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      04-05-2018, 05:43 PM   #3
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Thanks for the welcome!

Wanted to go 255 square but apparently they won't fit?
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      04-05-2018, 09:02 PM   #4
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They will fit with some fender...massaging.
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      04-05-2018, 09:11 PM   #5
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Message received. I have a rubber mallet is great for massaging.

255/35/18 then?
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      04-06-2018, 07:31 AM   #6
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Quote:
They will fit with some fender...massaging.
255/40/17 will fit if you are not slammed.

Below are the same setup on 17x9 with 10mm spacer in front. No fender adjustments at all and no rubbing.
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      04-06-2018, 11:34 AM   #7
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Very well done. I have 245/35/18 on my front axle using 261 style rear wheels and a 10 MM spacer with ~3deg negative camber. There is probably 2-3mm of space between the strut and the tire. I'm not saying 255 is impossible, but I'm happy with 245 with the time being knowing that it fits without issue.
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      04-06-2018, 11:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyRickard View Post
Message received. I have a rubber mallet is great for massaging.

255/35/18 then?
I would suggest cutting and rolling the front fenders and try to get square 255s in there.

Mind sharing more info on your previous build?
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      04-07-2018, 04:20 AM   #9
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Its just the fronts I need to worry about right?

Here's my previous build thread. There's a link to tumblr gallery towards the end its a long read

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/...2-gtr-replica/
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      04-09-2018, 10:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyRickard View Post
Its just the fronts I need to worry about right?
Yeah, there's much less room up front than in the rear. With the right wheels (18x8.5 ET58) people have run 285's in the rear
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      04-09-2018, 01:54 PM   #11
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Currently running 18x9 +37 with a Falken 265/35/18 RT615k+ up front. No issues to speak of at -2.8*. Out back I'm running 18x9.5 +48 with a 275/35/18 RT615k+ and -2.8*, also no issue there.

As long as you can keep your front coilover spring perch above the top of the tire, you'll be fine. A 7" spring with no helper on most coilovers will do that for you.
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      04-13-2018, 12:19 AM   #12
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Did a wet skid pan last night, was first time getting it sideways and I really enjoyed it. Very floaty and understeery though which I guess is to be expected.

I am at a bit of a crossroad though with the next steps.

I have purchased a set of KW Clubsport 2 ways and OEM 8.5" rims to go on the front.
I was also planning on going 255 square but every serious 135i/1M car I know that races runs staggered.

As I am doing all the work myself, my immediate concern is that I install the coilovers and then have tyres that won't fit in the guards.

So, if I run the 8.5" rims with 245/40 with 10mm spacer in the front and 265/35 in the rear will I have any clearance issues? Will the tyres fit ok on the OEM rims?

Secondly, whilst the suspension is off, what else should I do while I have the chance?
Definitely upgrading RSFB, anything else? The car has adjustable LCA's but apparently not adjustable enough so gonna go with M3 arms. Will look into sway bars later. Also, interested in replacing for M3 steering rack.

Also, I'm fully expecting to hit limp mode my next track day. What happens? How long does it take to recover?

Cheers
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      04-13-2018, 08:18 AM   #13
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I have double adjustable KW V3's and 245's fit in the front with a 10 MM spacer. Don't know about the rear, I'm running square. If you're on a budget, running square would help you get some more life out of a set of tires, no?

Do the M3 rack and M3 arms, RSFB's as well. When you swap in a proper differential, you can do the diff bushings.

You expect to hit limp mode due to what? Oil temps? If that's a serious concern, I would address that before everything else. No fun putting all that work in and having to end your day early.
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      04-16-2018, 12:42 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsmithvmi View Post
Do the M3 rack and M3 arms, RSFB's as well. When you swap in a proper differential, you can do the diff bushings.

You expect to hit limp mode due to what? Oil temps? If that's a serious concern, I would address that before everything else. No fun putting all that work in and having to end your day early.
Would this kit from Whiteline do the trick?
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...page=&catsize=

I'm gonna see how I go with the standard oil setup and overfill with 1L
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      04-16-2018, 10:10 AM   #15
ajsmithvmi
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That's the kit I used. Much easier with 2-piece bushings since you don't need to drop the subframe as much as the M3 bushings.
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      04-22-2018, 06:55 PM   #16
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So the past few weeks I've just been emptying my bank account and buying parts.
Now to fit them! I do have some questions about tuning though. I have the following parts to fit:
- Catless Downpipes
- Cobb Charge pipe
- Wagner Evo 2 intercooler
- BMW Performance Exhaust

I was originally going to go with an MHD Stage 2+ (420hp/310kw at 18psi) but seeing as I'm not chasing power but reliability I guess I just wanted some advice on whether this the right tune or if I should be looking at lowering boost. The engine has just ticked over 150xxx kms so I don't want to stress it although I understand these maps are fairly conservative anyway.
Should I try a Stage 1 first, or is that a waste of time (and money). How aggressive is throttle response between Stage 1 & 2? Car is on stock map currently.

Also, need some help understanding E85 tunes. On the GTR I never went down that route because E85 was hard to find, and unless I had a flex fuel sensor I would need to drain the fuel tank after race meets. How do you manage E85 tunes with an MHD?
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      04-23-2018, 04:55 PM   #17
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For your first couple sessions out on track, I'd stick with the stock map (MHD Stage 0), but turn on the "Track" cooling target in the MHD options list. If your oil temps look good, then you can incrementally turn up the boost. With a stock radiator and oil cooler you'll probably hit limp mode at some point and then you'll need to decide if you can live with less power, or if you want more cooling capacity.
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      04-23-2018, 05:23 PM   #18
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Thanks for the reply. I've been holding off on flashing a map until I installed the intercooler etc so I was not aware of the cooling options.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerAg View Post
If your oil temps look good, then you can incrementally turn up the boost. With a stock radiator and oil cooler you'll probably hit limp mode at some point and then you'll need to decide if you can live with less power, or if you want more cooling capacity.
By "turning up the boost" do you mean going from Stage 0>1>2?
Or is there another way to adjust boost pressure?
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      04-23-2018, 07:30 PM   #19
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I believe you'll need an ethanol analyzer, JB4 and maybe a backend flash for MHD. I believe JB4 has maps for handling ethanol content.

Alternatively there is the flexfuel module from Motiv but the MHD support has not been released (although they promised it will come out within the month).
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      04-24-2018, 08:21 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyRickard View Post
Thanks for the reply. I've been holding off on flashing a map until I installed the intercooler etc so I was not aware of the cooling options.



By "turning up the boost" do you mean going from Stage 0>1>2?
Or is there another way to adjust boost pressure?
Yeah that's what I meant. I know it costs $50 per map pack, but if you go straight to stage 2+ and then hit limp mode in 5 minutes on track, then you'll probably want to get the stage 1 maps anyway. There are ways to tune the car yourself, but I'm not familiar with the software tools needed or comfortable doing that on my daily driver, I'll leave the tuning to the pros on this one.
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      04-24-2018, 10:37 PM   #21
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Great thanks. I've also heard that earlier versions of maps run less boost, is there a way to review them before running them?
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      07-24-2018, 04:55 PM   #22
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Car has been sitting dormant for a while but I've just recently fitted the following parts:

M3 arms
KW Clubsports
Cobb chargepipe
Wagner Evo 2 intercooler
MHD stage 1+

Took it for a spin last night and was seriously shocked. It is FAST. Fastest car I have driven. Third gear pulls like a freight train.

I think I am going to stick with Stage 1+ for a while 😬

Anyway, as the theme with the project goes, my challenge is budget and right now I am lacking funds but I really need tyres so that is the next hurdle before hitting the track
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