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      05-25-2013, 09:41 AM   #23
Grande Oso
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need to bleed the lifters.... there is air in the hydraulic lifters .... it happened all the time with my e60... good luck
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      05-25-2013, 10:58 AM   #24
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I think I am hearing this also. It is very obvious with the hood open.
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      01-12-2014, 12:40 PM   #25
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Hello everyone,I have an 2010 335i DCT Coupe and i have the same problem and chrisk03 sy2767.Every morning when i go to warm up my car theres a ticking noise coming from underneath the hood, it usually goes away after 10-15 minutes..
I posted a video on youtube





Quote:
Originally Posted by flzrider View Post
I think you and I may have the same noise.

I just uploaded a video I took the other night here:



Description: Video taken of my 1M's N54 motor after a 30 minute drive (fully warmed up, A/C off entire drive). I heard the noise as I pulled into the driveway, popped the hood, and pulled my phone out. The noise I am trying to track down is the one that disappears at the 5 second mark. This noise is much louder than the typical ticking noise of a direct injection motor. Right as the noise goes away the engine sounds like it is switching to/from something, similar to an A/C compressor switching on/off (again, A/C was off during this video).

In your 335 video, it appears that the sound goes away at the 38 second mark, correct? Are you just guessing that the noise is coming from the valve train? If so, what makes you think that?



Dackel, check out the video I just uploaded. I think there is a distinction between the usual direct injection noise and this particular noise. Let me know what you think.
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      02-08-2014, 11:44 AM   #26
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same ticking issue

I have the same noise.

BUT - when i press the clutch pedal - it goes away ! if so - is it also the valve or aomething else ?

tnx
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      02-08-2014, 12:42 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bebo-valdez;*****841
I have the same noise.

BUT - when i press the clutch pedal - it goes away ! if so - is it also the valve or aomething else ?

tnx
Tranny rattle.

Neil
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      02-11-2014, 12:50 AM   #28
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I also have this same noise.

Only noticed it last week for the first time after a long drive and idling in my driveway.
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      02-25-2014, 05:29 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
Tranny rattle.

Neil
TNX.

Now the question is what do i do with that noise ?
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      02-25-2014, 05:34 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bebo-valdez;*****841
I have the same noise.

BUT - when i press the clutch pedal - it goes away ! if so - is it also the valve or aomething else ?

tnx
Clutch thrust bearing rattle..

As you depress the clutch and engage the bearing, this puts force and pressure on the bearing, eliminating the bearing rattle..
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      03-21-2014, 09:35 AM   #31
bebo-valdez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
Tranny rattle.

Neil
guys, what can i do to solve that ?
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      07-12-2014, 03:12 PM   #32
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Anyone figure out the fix for this yet? Just got the issue today...
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      07-15-2014, 01:05 PM   #33
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Best off not worrying about it. There is no definitive evidence as to the negative effects of it if any. The only definitive fix I have found for it is to replace the entire head with the redesigned one which BMW put into the later production models which will cost an obscene amount of money (unless you are under warranty).

I've had it for about 10-15k miles and nothing has changed in that time (knock on wood of course). It's worst in the winter for me, but there are times when I don't get it at all. And then only on the initial startup for a split second. It can be sporadic.

One thing I do know for sure from experience is that very short trips will aggrevate this issue. Best off not doing trips less than 5 miles. When I would drive back and forth to school which was only 2-3 miles I'd get it all the time and it was loud! The only fix for me was to drive it on the highway for a long distance and do some hard pulls into the upper rpms as some have also said that consistently keeping the engine at low RPMs (probably below 3k) will also aggrevate it.

Hope this helps. I also just realized this was the 1M forum but it sounds like you have the same issues as everyone else!
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      07-15-2014, 02:32 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisar82 View Post
Best off not worrying about it. There is no definitive evidence as to the negative effects of it if any. The only definitive fix I have found for it is to replace the entire head with the redesigned one which BMW put into the later production models which will cost an obscene amount of money (unless you are under warranty).

I've had it for about 10-15k miles and nothing has changed in that time (knock on wood of course). It's worst in the winter for me, but there are times when I don't get it at all. And then only on the initial startup for a split second. It can be sporadic.

One thing I do know for sure from experience is that very short trips will aggrevate this issue. Best off not doing trips less than 5 miles. When I would drive back and forth to school which was only 2-3 miles I'd get it all the time and it was loud! The only fix for me was to drive it on the highway for a long distance and do some hard pulls into the upper rpms as some have also said that consistently keeping the engine at low RPMs (probably below 3k) will also aggrevate it.

Hope this helps. I also just realized this was the 1M forum but it sounds like you have the same issues as everyone else!
I don't see how replacing the head would eliminate a tranny rattle...

FWIW, it's only an annoyance. It doesn't indicate anything in need of repair and it can be dampened by going to a slightly heavier tranny fluid.

Neil
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      07-15-2014, 04:42 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
I don't see how replacing the head would eliminate a tranny rattle...

FWIW, it's only an annoyance. It doesn't indicate anything in need of repair and it can be dampened by going to a slightly heavier tranny fluid.

Neil
It seems like there are 2 different noises being discussed here simultaneously:

The noise the OP and I had is of a strange valve ticking type noise randomly coming from under the hood. I posted a YouTube video of my personal car making the noise. Coincidentally, I don't think my car has made the noise since I posted the video. I believe it may have happened a total of 4-5 times. Doesn't seem like there is much of a consensus as to what it is or if it is even harmful. @Chrisar82 mentioned something about changing heads, but he has a 128i, not a 135i or 1M.

The other noise that bebo-valdez brought up was the common dual-mass flywheel rattle noise that goes away with the press of the clutch. This is a well known noise that affects many cars with dual-mass flywheels.
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      12-28-2015, 07:13 PM   #36
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yeh. thats the sound:(

I got my 2013 328xi Luxury Line. 6 days ago. 63000km.I was so fast to buy it because it was so well trimmed, and yup i drove the poop out of it just before the snow falls first time I had the radio off and was driving slowly I could here clicks that went up in frequincy with the amount of fuel i gave it. Its just what they do.
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      10-04-2017, 07:50 PM   #37
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I know this is a super old thread, but thought I'd throw my "solution" out there. I picked up a 07 335i with 130k on it that sounded like a diesel. I focused on other things, believing it was a minor cosmetic (not cosmetic, but you know what I'm saying) issue. Inconsequential, I guess that's the right word. Still believe that's the case BTW. Haven't heard of anyone's car exploding from ticking too loud.

I did an oil change as a result of valve cover and oil filter housing gasket replacements. Think I used 5W30 Castrol. Did a bunch of other stuff too. Ticked as loud as ever. Found it about a quart low after driving around a while, I believe after getting everything up to temp and run in after the oil change. I think I only put in 6 quarts, so that could explain it. Either that or I'm burning some, which may or may not be related to anything. I have original (index 1) injectors, if you can believe that.

Anyway, long story short (I know, too late), I fixed the quart low with a quart of Lucas Synthetic oil stabilizer, put on the engine cover which had been removed for all of the other work, and nary a tick anymore. I think it was a combination of all of the above: low oil, no sound deadener from the cover, and the Lucas stabilizer. I had read about the Lucas product from one of the many other ticking threads on e90 post and figured it was worth the $20 to check it out. Only have a few hundred miles on it since but it's the difference between obnoxious and reasonable. Worth $20 to give it a try for sure.
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      11-09-2017, 10:16 PM   #38
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Solution for me

Grande OSO was exactly right.

I had that exact same noise, been doing research on it, reading threads, etc.

I found this:

The bleeding procedure-
Lifter bleed procedure:

BMW SIB 11.09.07

Metallic Ticking noise coming from engine? – BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum – E90Post.com

SI B 11 09 07 Engine
January 2009

This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI 11 09 07 dated April 2008.

SUBJECT
Intermittent Hydraulic Valve Adjuster (HVA): “Ticking” or “Rattling” Noises

MODEL
All E82, E83, E85, E86, E88, E60, E61, E70, E90, E91, E92, and E93 with the N51, N52 or N52K engines

SITUATION
An occasional ticking or rattling noise from the HVA elements may occur during cold engine starts or frequent short-distance driving.

CAUSE
In these situations, the HVA elements may not yet have been supplied with sufficient amounts of air-free oil. This condition will not cause any damage to the engine, and usually remedies itself with a longer driving distance or operating times at full operating temperature.

CORRECTION
In the event of a customer complaint, please perform the following the HVA bleeding procedure.

PROCEDURE
Important notes:

The bleed time may take anywhere from between two minutes and (in rare cases) to a maximum of 30 minutes. This procedure is to be performed on a level surface with the vehicle stationary, and in a properly ventilated area.

Procedure preconditions:

Engine oil level correct – neither underfilled nor overfilled

Engine running at operating temperature

1.) Bring the engine up to an operating speed (no load) of 2000-3000 rpm and maintain this condition for three minutes (bleeding procedure).

Let the engine idle for 15-30 seconds and reevaluate whether the noise is still present or not.

2.) Engine quiet – procedure is finished.

3.) Engine noise is still present – repeat the procedure; perform steps #1 and #2 up to a maximum of 5 times.

4.) Only if the noise remains after performing the bleeding procedure 5 times: proceed by performing the procedure for a final time, also at an engine operating speed of 2000-3000 rpm, but for a total time duration of 15 minutes.

Wow it was so simple to fix, ticking noise gone after 2x

Good Luck
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      12-02-2017, 05:55 PM   #39
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My 123D developed a ticking noise shortly after i brought it. The service guy got me out on the road with a technician who managed to identify a fault with the manifold washers. No more ticking sound!
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