135i to 1M conversion whats req'd

[pixelblue]

Yeah it's clutch type and it can be adjusted for lock both on acceleration and braking. They do require some maintenance but nothing unreasonable. All of this in anticipation of a tune. Would be silly to get a tune and not be able to put it down

[GaryS]

I rode in a 911S with OS Giken two weeks ago. Based on things I've read on this forum, I expected some kind of dramatic shock from the LSD. But it was super smooth and not intrusive at all.

[pixelblue]

HPF was installing them in their e92 M3. That's saying something

[bitcore]

I have also been eyeing an OS Giken for quite some time - but have yet to find a way to get one in my car for <= $3,000.

Turner Motorsports has a turnkey solution that comes out to about $2,875 for the full pumpkin. Add shop labor & shipping costs and that's a little over my budget for this.

AMS Performance allegedly sold the OS Gikens, but they have never been on their website. See: http://wayback.archive.org/web/*/htt...rivetrain.html

madnessmotorworks sells the diff only for ~$1,900. I wonder what exactly the 500$ luxury option entails. I suppose they change the lock ramps to something less violent, or maybe the swap the clutch discs for ones with a more compliant friction martial.

I like to drift. Clutch LSD is what I want. I would love a 1M, but the tires for the stock wheels are 3x as expensive than non run-flats on the stock 135 wheels.

[GaryS]

Originally Posted by ianf2002

I just went for a drive in another members 1M. Can't compare it to my 135i, I wasn't expecting such a difference .... the 1M is a FAR superior car in all aspects... that's just a fact!
If you haven't driven in both, then I don't believe you can't pass comment.

I did 3 hpde sessions in my car and 1 session in MDORPHINs 1m today. He's running wider wheels and tires than I can fit. Otherwise, I didn't notice anything that was better. I know there are a lot of little things, which I mentioned earlier in this thread, but they are small differences IMO.

[xerox445]

VAC just built me a custom diff. I have not let anyone work on any of my cars in the last 6 years, I do all my own work...and if I had the money, I would have them build the rest of my car without a worry. The guys over at VAC are basicly the best kept secret on the east coast. No one else can touch their prices, customer service, and knowledge.

[pixelblue]

What did you get?

[fboutlaw]

I've been working on my suspension a long time starting with Dinan stage 3 and swapping most of the components one by one until I arrived at my current setup, which I love but has 1 issue.

I disagree that you can have 1M handling without doing all the little things. By doing springs, shocks, tires, LSD, sway; you can get to the same general performance level as a 1M in terms of times but there is still a long way to go to have a fully planted feel at all times.

To get to an M car feel, you have to pony up and replace your parts with M equivalents.
Basics
- Front Sway
- Springs / Shocks
- LSD
- Tires
Little things
- Rear sway
- Front control arms
- Front wishbones
- Rear subframe bushings
- Camber plates (compensates for tire size stagger)
- Rear uppers (optional)
- Change your end-links for sways depending on the drop from your springs
- High performance brake pads or a BBK.

It's amazing the difference in feel between the basics and doing a full swap. No longer is there a shimmy when you brake from over 100 on a track or having to allow the car to really settle into a corner before you get full grip. Changing the links between your suspension and the interaction points between critical parts is critical for feel, however doesn't give your car a huge leg up on the performance meter.

The one problem with the above setup is our front bumper and quarter panels. You can't cram more than a 245 wide front tire in the above setup without rub (I'm at 255). I'm strongly considering getting the 1M front quarters and de-badging. Safety first, right? But at the end, that will complete my suspension conversion and make me mentally focus on faster times by better lines, not better parts.

And from your post I can't tell if you were looking for tools to swap all this stuff.
- Breaker bar
- Full metric wrench set
- WD-40
- AR design part to remove the drive shaft
- Jack + Stands

It's easy to do yourself, but takes FOREVER. To do the subframe bushings, sways, control arms was somewhere around 20 hours for me with my inferior tools and setup. If you do it all at once you will save a ton of time.

[MilehighM3]

Originally Posted by ianf2002

I just went for a drive in another members 1M. Can't compare it to my 135i, I wasn't expecting such a difference .... the 1M is a FAR superior car in all aspects... that's just a fact!
If you haven't driven in both, then I don't believe you can't pass comment.

Exactly my comments. It's a great car, and there is no beating it without doing everything that is different. No one is going to buy a rear subframe, ESP not me. I have all of the bolt on M equivalents on my car, plus Dinan susp and LSD, wider tires and wheels and still the car does not feel the same.

You may find a way to beat a stock 1M or E9x M3, but throw a set of tires on either and you're toast. That's just the way it is.

1M fenders are required for bumper fitment, so are the rocker panels. Then the rockers don't it the rear quarters right due to the lack of flares. So you need the rear quarters. Then you need the bumper and an exhaust to fill the diffuser until someone makes a single sided one for an M. See where this goes? Best bet is to get the ER front wide body kit that allows you to fit huge front tires with out touching the rear. Run a square setup to equalize your contact patches front and rear. Then, hope you don't see a modded 1M on the track with someone driving who knows what they're doing..
Just my .02

[IGoFast1589]

Agreed, the little things need to be done. You can have equal speed or be faster than a 1M by doing the major components, but you will lack the feel if you skip out on those things.

fboutlaw, what's your current setup that you like so much?

[fboutlaw]

Originally Posted by IGoFast1589

fboutlaw, what's your current setup that you like so much?

- M3 Coupe Front/Rear Sways, control arms, wishbones, subframe bushings, strut brace
- Dinan Springs / Koni (Dinan) Shocks w/Vorshlag Camber Plates
-3.5 deg front / -1.5 deg rear for camber. Rest of the settings I go stock for alignment.
- Quaife LSD (3.46 gearing)
- Stock brakes with cool carbon pads
- PSS 255/275 Tires on Apex Arc 8's
- 36/38 psi for daily
- 39/39 psi for autox
- 35/36 psi for track (cold)

Only problem I have now is wheel rub up front in large bumps or counter-steer. But like I said, I did all the parts in stages, and can say that the car performed nearly as well time wise before, but now it's incredibly smooth, planted, and predictable.

[pixelblue]

How did you get 3.5 camber? Can't get more than 2.8 on mine and from what I've heard you can't go beyond 2.9 on vorshlags. Would like to know how to max out to 3.5. Let me know. Thanks

[IGoFast1589]

Originally Posted by fboutlaw

- M3 Coupe Front/Rear Sways, control arms, wishbones, subframe bushings, strut brace
- Dinan Springs / Koni (Dinan) Shocks w/Vorshlag Camber Plates
-3.5 deg front / -1.5 deg rear for camber. Rest of the settings I go stock for alignment.
- Quaife LSD (3.46 gearing)
- Stock brakes with cool carbon pads
- PSS 255/275 Tires on Apex Arc 8's
- 36/38 psi for daily
- 39/39 psi for autox
- 35/36 psi for track (cold)

Only problem I have now is wheel rub up front in large bumps or counter-steer. But like I said, I did all the parts in stages, and can say that the car performed nearly as well time wise before, but now it's incredibly smooth, planted, and predictable.

Very nice! You kept the staggered setup though, huh? Just because you couldn't fit anymore in the front or because you like the balance better that way? How's the rear feel without any of the links changed out back, still solid?

[TT1351]

I had VAC install a Quaiffe in my diff, along with finned diff cooler cover, looks awesome, and is truly amazing, +1 on VAC.
Fran

[1013mm]

sell car. buy 1M. done.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by fboutlaw

To get to an M car feel, you have to pony up and replace your parts with M equivalents.
Basics
- Front Sway
- Springs / Shocks
- LSD
- Tires
Little things
- Rear sway
- Front control arms
- Front wishbones
- Rear subframe bushings
- Camber plates (compensates for tire size stagger)
- Rear uppers (optional)
- Change your end-links for sways depending on the drop from your springs
- High performance brake pads or a BBK.

Nice list. I think the only thing you left out is the M3 front strut tower cross brace.

[vantagesc]

Motor mounts and steering rack make a difference in feel as well.

[fboutlaw]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Nice list. I think the only thing you left out is the M3 front strut tower cross brace.

I don't think that adds any feel or real stiffness to the car. The m3 strut tower brace is incredibly nice for adjustable struts, but in terms of stiffness, I do actually think the stock setup is better.

Stock is a bar between two bolts. It's really crude and not a pretty solution, but it will add stiffness.

The M3 variant is all bolted together and the pieces of metal can flex/slide past the bolts, unless you create a pocket and recess the bolt heads. Overall it's too adjustable to be a truly rigid solution.

... however, I have done this and do not regret it.

[MilehighM3]

Actually the stock bar is pretty flexible. The M3 bar, although it is multiple pieces, provides better distribution of the load on the strut towers and it is not a fly bar like the stock. The slight crown to the braces makes the M3 bar more rigid. That being said, I don't the rigidity of the E8x/9x is as flexible as past models that need the extra support. It does make adjustable struts nice though!