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      05-30-2018, 10:56 AM   #287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clean WHP View Post
wow, super clean and impressive stuff as always!

at 20-23PSI on a 6062 and E50/E60, My best educated guess would say that should give you around 560-600 WHP. Im surprised you don't want to turn it up a bit more!

Don't get me wrong, that is a great amount of power and would fit your car brilliantly with it being a daily driver. Also the other upgrades all around would keep things nice and balanced at that point, but on the other hand I couldn't imagine investing all the money are the manifold, Port Injection controller/fueling, Stage 3 LPFP, and many other things for just around that power level.

Turn it up to 25-26PSI and milk out about 650WHP or so from that set up!! Im sure everything would be perfectly happy to do so

I know we all have different goals, but for 20-23 PSI on an E85 blend with a 6062, I would probably have done a single shotgun or a slightly bigger turbo to possibly make that power on just LPFP upgrade and stock DI

When I get PI and my VIE kit dialed in, I plan to push 26-27PSI on the 66mm Garrett on full E85, looking for 680-700WHP, so I decided the PI investment will be worth my while. Although I was considering a more simple set up with a single shotgun + E85 blend before that, the deciding factor against the shotgun was that my WHP goals are just slightly more than I think it is capable of, otherwise I think in a lower HP application its a great route to take
Yes, been very excited to get my fueling pieces in order. It's really the last thing standing between this car and making serious daily drivable power. In all honesty, I'd be completely content with 560-600WHP on E50. That's always been the end goal of this build. I'm all for pushing limits, but as I've always touched on, I'd rather have longevity while I still use the car everyday. But you're also right, I'll have the ability to turn it up to higher boost if I want, maybe for a dyno day or something special. I feel like if I've built the car for 700WHP and running it at 575WHP, I may save myself some headache while still having a brutally fast daily.

I considered the single shotgun, but the reviews I read were not very flattering. Most people had to modify their kits, had pieces fail, etc. I know they've revised them recently, and it seems a lot of people are opting to go the double route, but I also don't want to be swapping out HPFPs all the time. And I like the idea of PI if controlled correctly. A bigger turbo would have flowed even more air, requiring more fuel, at the same boost, so not sure that would have helped me hit the numbers with no extra fueling either. Especially with a weak HPFP, which is what I think is happening.

What PI setup are you coupling with your new single setup?
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      06-27-2018, 10:18 PM   #288
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It's now been 10,000 miles since switching to a single turbo setup, and I'm still daily driving without any issues. Temperatures have been in the high 90's more often than not lately and the 1er handles it with ease. For the past 5,000 or so miles I've been running 17psi on E20 fueling -- with great looking logs. No timing drops in any cylinders, no fuel pump drops (high or low pressure), and boost comes on hard and stays rock solid right at 17psi. Any more boost or any more ethanol, and my HPFP can't keep up. Everything else is holding up well and the Blackstone Laboratories reports keep coming back with good news.



With 110,000 miles on the odometer now, I've finally acquired all the parts to address my struggling fuel system. While my old parts worked brilliantly with a lot of ethanol on stock turbos, they simply couldn't keep up with all the newfound airflow. The new setup will consist of a Stage 3 bucketed LPFP (two 450s, the second on a 15psi Hobb's Switch) from Fuel-It! in the tank, flowing through upgraded Fuel-It! fuel lines into an ethanol sensor which is integrated into the JB4 Mobile App, into the camlock fitting y-line from Fuel-It! - one end flowing into the Phoenix Port Injection manifold with JB4 PI controller, and the other end flowing into the HPFP, which will be brand new.

Once I have all that up and running, I'll probably link up with a professional tuner to dial in something around 23psi on E40-E60 for every day purposes and continue to DD and maintain everything until the wheels fall off. Until I can install all this hardware and iron out all the kinks over the next month or so, here's some more photos:















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      07-12-2018, 01:02 PM   #289
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Before I installed any of the fueling mods I'd acquired, I first needed to pass inspection in North Carolina. I passed last year as a FBO twin turbo car running catless downpipes and resonators in place of my secondary cats by flashing to MHD stock map 0, turning the JB4 to map 0, and getting inspected in the small window in between achieving readiness and throwing a code for not having cats installed.

In 2018 however, I had transitioned to a single turbo setup and still had no cats. For weeks I struggled to get readiness. I flashed the MHD stock 0 map (not enjoyable on a single turbo car), turned the JB4 to map 0, disabled auto clear mode, and monitored readiness with the MHD app. For weeks I couldn't achieve any type of readiness no matter which map I was running. Through research, mostly reading v8bait's posts, and watching Budget Bimmer's video on the topic, I discovered that as long as your state allows 1 not ready, like North Carolina, that passing inspection should not be a problem. More than 1 not ready, or an illuminated check engine light on the dash, and it's a fail.

Using TunerPro software + the Budget Bimmers video as instructions, I activated EVAP and deactivated the secondary cat codes within the BMS BEF I was using, made sure not to touch anything else, saved the tune, and flashed it to the car. This theoretically would allow me to keep the car in map 2 at 17psi on my preferred BMS pump gas single turbo THR tune, and still be able to pass smog testing. Unfortunately I was still having issues achieving any type of readiness across the board.

Just as I was really starting to get frustrated, I remembered I had unplugged the rear o2 sensor connections within the JB4 harness when I was working out o2 sensor gremlins months back. I went back inside the ECU box, reconnected these. I had essentially already coded them out using TunerPro, so they wouldn't cause a CEL, but now they could achieve readiness. Sure enough, a few drive cycles, and we were showing readiness everywhere except catalyst. Knowing I could still pass with that one not ready, as long as it wasn't a fail, I headed to the small gas station down the street that I've been going to for the past few years, and it was quickly pulled into one of the bays for inspection.



10 minutes later and I was ready to go until summer 2019 with passing colors. It's nice to know that I won't have any problems in the future running single turbo, with 0 cats installed, and running a JB4 + BMS BEF combo.



Fueling mods and more boost are scheduled for early August, but until then, I'll continue to beat on her daily.
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      07-12-2018, 02:31 PM   #290
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Seems a lot of trouble, but congrats on the Cert!
I don't think "Cat's not ready" would fly too far out here in CA...
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      07-12-2018, 03:31 PM   #291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjswarbrick View Post
Seems a lot of trouble, but congrats on the Cert!
I don't think "Cat's not ready" would fly too far out here in CA...
IIRC, in certain states such as California, "catalyst" can not be the one monitor showing not ready.
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      07-25-2018, 09:51 PM   #292
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Four months ago I made the conversion from the OEM twin turbos to a larger, single turbo made by Precision. Since then, I've used the car as a daily driver -- racking up over 10,000 miles in that timeframe with no issues to note. That includes driving through a ton of different conditions, including side roads and dirt parking lots. Even though the engine bay could use a detail, and is covered in a layer of dust, everything is holding up extremely well.



The BMS single turbo filter is key in protecting expensive hardware and has done a great job so far.



Now I'd finally found the time and collected all the parts to feed this ST setup the fueling it deserved. Prior to the teardown, I gave the car a quick exterior wash.



Once everything was dry, it was time to get the car situated inside for a quick interior cleaning.



After vacuuming all the carpets and wiping down all the surfaces, I removed the rear seat knowing I'd need to access the fuel pump cover at some point. I also used the seat belts to secure the grey felt layer up and out of the way.



Before moving to the trunk to disconnect the battery, I rolled down the front windows and moved the power seats as far forward as they would go so I'd have as much room as possible. For what it's worth, I also have plans to pick up a full size spare, jack, and some other tools for a roadside emergency. I need more than a can of Slime and a cigarette lighter powered air compressor for as many miles as I travel; oftentimes over an hour away from home.



Using simple green, a brush, and a light stream of water, I gave the engine bay a bath (avoiding the downpipe wrap + blanket, air filter, and alternator). At this point everything was completely clean, so I started removing things from the engine bay. A half hour later and I had managed to remove the cowl, strut bars, charge pipe, and intake manifold.



Here's a quick comparison shot of the Phoenix Race IM versus the OEM IM.



Using Fuel-It's excellent guide to replacing the HPFP on an N54, it wasn't long before we were making serious progress.



After using some creative wrench combinations to reach the three 5mm allen key bolts, I had removed my first HPFP. The old on the left, part number 7616195-03, and the remanufactured version from FCPEuro on the right, part number 7616194-03. The one on the left had 100,000 miles of use, 50,000 of high E85 concentrations, and was still holding on strong at 17psi on E20 fuel. Although I wasn't experiencing long cranks or any other symptoms of HPFP failure, the dips in the logs and misfire I'd experienced at one point when upping boost on E40 fuel, meant that it wasn't 100% healthy either.



From there, it was time to remove the hard line connection that runs from the HPFP to the fuel line and the existing Fuel-It upgraded fuel line that runs to the ethanol sensor mounted underneath the car. That line will not be reused as I'll be using the new Fuel-It Y-line with camlock fittings that connects at the ethanol sensor and runs to the HPFP hard line + PI fuel rail.



While I was underneath the car with the plastic shields removed, I wanted to give everything a thorough inspection. There had been some discussing as to how much of an upgrade, if it all, the aluminum guibo had been over the rubber version I removed. Some people had mentioned that they'd seen failures, so it was something I'd wanted to keep an eye on. Plus I had considered going back to the OEM transmission mounts to help out with NVH with the MFactory SMFW. To my surprise, the guibo was completely destroyed, and I have no reason to believe it hadn't been for quite some time. I'm honestly surprised it hadn't been giving me more trouble than it had.



Luckily, I had hung on to my OEM rubber guibo that was still in excellent condition so I could just swap them back out. For the record, I haven't launched the car, haven't even went full throttle in 2nd gear -- only a low amount of 3rd-4th gear pulls. After seeing this, I'm excited to feel how smooth the car drives with the old rubber guibo reinstalled.





The next order of business will be to hop back inside the car, remove the stage 2 bucket, and install the stage 3 bucket in its place.
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      07-26-2018, 01:13 PM   #293
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Wow, that's some serious guibo destruction! I must have missed that installation somewhere along the line in the thread. How many miles on it?

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      07-26-2018, 02:02 PM   #294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianc View Post
Wow, that's some serious guibo destruction! I must have missed that installation somewhere along the line in the thread. How many miles on it?

ianc
Absolutely destroyed! I was pretty surprised I wasn't have any real ill effects from it being that busted. I installed this back when I dropped the transmission during the ST conversion, when I was installing the MFactory SMFW and Spec 2+ clutch.

There's currently a discussion going on in another forum as to whether or not the aluminum guibo was an upgrade at all. It seems as if BMW might have phased this part out for failure reasons. I should have just stuck with the rubber guibo that was in excellent condition.
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      07-27-2018, 12:29 PM   #295
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I found a few more hours last night to drop by the garage to continue wrenching for a bit. I'd already gotten the car up on stands, removed the HPFP, removed the stock intake manifold and surrounding accessories, as well as the upgraded ethanol sensor to HPFP hardline from Fuel-It I had installed. That meant next up was to get the Fuel-It stage 2 bucket out of the tank, and get the stage 3 in.

Again, I used the great DIY provided by Fuel-It! for installing one of their stage 3 LPFP buckets.

I'd already removed the rear seats in preparation, so the first step was using my trusty Fuel-It lock ring tool to get started -- this is now the third time I've used this for removing + reinstalling a fuel pump for an N54 car. Makes getting these lock rings on and off super-simple.



Lock ring removed, top vent line and electrical connections unplugged, and top hat partially removed.



Stage 2 LPFP up and out.



Quick comparison between the stage 3 pump with 2 Walbro 450s on the left versus the stage 2 pump with 1 Walbro 450 on the right.





The stage 3 pump went in just as easily as the stage 2 pump came out, and a half hour later all the hoses were connected, two Walbro 450's were in the fuel tank, and the lock ring was reinstalled. I left the two top vents uninstalled for the time being, so I could connect the power wires.



Because the 2nd Walbro 450 fuel pump is only activated when instructed to by the Hobb's switch I'll be installing, this requires some additional wiring that wasn't required when running a single pump. I had Fuel-It pre-wire my top hat and the power/trigger wires are all included, so connecting the power wires was as easy as connecting the positive and negative terminals.





The not so convenient part of this, was that I had to route these wires into the battery compartment. This included removing the rear passenger side wheel liner and snaking the power wires down through where the smaller vent tube goes to.



From there, the wires snake into a grommet that enters the trunk behind one of the side trunk liners.



With the passenger side trunk liner removed, as well as the entire battery, we now had power wires routed all the way from the secondary fuel pump to the trunk.



I plan on getting in a few more hours tonight, so hopefully I can finish up all the wiring for the secondary fuel pump, open up the DME box and get the JB4 PI controller installed, bolt in the rubber guibo, and finalize preparations for installing the PI manifold on Saturday.In the meantime, I've been very much enjoying giving our second car some daily duty.

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      07-27-2018, 05:29 PM   #296
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Great work as always! Still waiting for some videos of this thing boosting down the street!
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      07-29-2018, 06:20 PM   #297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matticus91 View Post
Great work as always! Still waiting for some videos of this thing boosting down the street!
Coming soon! Everything is all bolted up so I can turn up the boost a bit.

---------------------------------------------------

Picking up where I left off, I finished up the wiring in the trunk of the car for the stage 3 pump. I'd already ran the power lines for the 2nd fuel pump through the rear passenger side wheel well and up into the battery compartment through a grommet, so I made those connections in their proper place in the pre-made relay harness and mounted it. That relay's power wire is connected directed to the positive terminal in the battery. After some wire loom, and because of the way I routed the wires, you can't tell anything has been added at all inside the trunk.



The trigger wires, which once activated, will turn on the power to the second pump, were routed from the relay seen above, down through the same hole I brought the power wires through from, and alongside the battery cables that run up the passenger side undercarriage of the car (some panels must be removed to access) and into the DME compartment. In my case, these trigger wires would be getting their signal from a 15psi Hobb's switch -- which I decided to place on the new manifold instead of my charge pipe. There are 4 ports, but I'm only using two: one for the Hobb's switch and one for a large reference port for my Tial blow off valve.



Now after reassembling everything, I only had the wiring in the engine bay remaining. This was by far the most tedious part of the install. I started by test fitting to see if the JB4 PI controller could fit in the DME box, which it did.



Having an ethanol sensor previously installed meant that I'd have to remove that pin from the DB25 side of the JB4 and move it to another portion open slot on the connector, as the PI controller needed that input.



The same chassis ground I used for the ethanol sensor, was also used for the PI controller.



Yellow TMAP wire to the DB9 side of the Jb4.



I didn't get pictures of everything, but that's because it was a handful keeping my head wrapped around the wiring. Routing everything properly so the DME lid fit back on nice and secure was also a challenge, but eventually it was done and time to move on to adding in the new hardware, starting with the HPFP. Once the splines were aligned and everything seated properly, the bolts were tightened down and it was time to move on to the fuel lines.



Compared to the other fuel line clips used, this new camlock style fitting is much preferred. And with the supplied lube for the hard lines, the fuel line slid right on with ease.



Here's the connection at the ethanol sensor, as well as a good comparison shot of the old style fitting and line on the left, with the new style on the right.



Now the remaining end of the y-shaped fuel line would attach to the port injection fuel rail, but first we'd need to fit the manifold. I relocated the "evil black box" mounting bracket, as well as the manifold sensor before bringing it over to the engine bay.



My first attempt at this took some effort, as there are quite a few hoses, wires and cables that run along the firewall, with space is at a minimum -- especially around the fuel rail at the rear. Eventually I was able to get the manifold over the studs and the AN fitting of the fuel line tightened onto the fuel rail, but it took raising the hard AC line up and out of the way a few inches.





With the throttle body and sensor reinstalled.



The fully visible top fuel rail looks phenomenal, especially when the JB4 PI harness is plugged in.



At this point, I reattached the battery, primed the pump, and confirmed there were no leaks present. Luckily, there weren't and moved on to addressing the flash tune and firmware. I used my JB4 mobile app to update to the latest firmware, and then loaded up the BMS ST TS E85 PI THR flash. Back in the JB4 settings, I changed to map 1, set all the duty bias to 50, set meth signal scaling to 99 so I can make sure the PI is engaging, and adjusted my FUA so I can still see my ethanol content.

Amazingly, the car fired up on the first crank and began idling normally. I got under the car, and closely monitored the manifold and connections to ensure there were no leaks to address.

All in all, everything lined up perfectly as far as fitment goes. I did have to do a bit more trimming to the engine cover in order to make it fit, as it was coming in contact with the PI fuel rail and connections. I also took the opportunity to remove the BMS filter and give it a thorough cleaning as well. The compressor cover of these PTE turbos is a shame to have to cover up though.



With everything put back together, the engine bay looks sensational -- definitely an upgrade aesthetically over the stock waffle plastic intake.



By the time I was finished, had everything reinstalled, and got the car back on the ground it was entirely too late to take it for a spin, so I'll save that for this week sometime. I'll start at the lowest boost setting on E50 or E60 fuel, make sure I got all the wiring correct for everything to activate when desired and that logs look good, then I'll slowly ramp up the boost.
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      07-30-2018, 11:04 AM   #298
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Unfortunately this morning before I went on a drive, I realized that I purchased my G5 ISO board in March of 2015, about 6 months before they started shipping with the updated chip. So while I was all ready to go this morning, this means no PI for me until the anti-lag + PI driver 24K22 chip gets here from BMS. I put in an order for one this morning with expedited shipping, as well as picked up a Dragy, so I'll be patiently waiting.
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      07-31-2018, 02:42 PM   #299
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To update the situation regarding the aluminum guibo I managed to break in a very short time, after finishing up installing a Fuel-It stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing PI IM, and upgraded fuel lines, I swapped back on my old 103,000 mile old rubber guibo and finally got to drive the car a bit. I did note some ever so slight stress cracks starting to form in the rubber near the bushings on this one before I bolted it back in.

To my pleasant surprise, probably 99% of the NVH was experiencing and blaming on the SMFW immediately remedied themselves after reinstalling the rubber guibo. A night and day difference in vibration, downshifts are now easier to rev match cleanly, and I no longer experience the the "rocking" sensation I was getting when quickly letting off the throttle at most speeds. I'll probably grab a brand new rubber version and install it during my next oil change just to be safe and avoid future problems and vibrations.
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      08-05-2018, 09:49 PM   #300
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As I mentioned a few posts back, soon after wrapping up the installation of all the new fueling hardware, I realized I had ordered my G5 board about 6 months prior to when BMS started shipping them with their 24K22 chip that's needed for PI integration. It only took a few days for the anti-lag chip (and Dragy module) to make its way from California to North Carolina. Installation seemed like a breeze. Just pull out the old chip and insert this new one in the same orientation.



Moments after the picture above was taken, I managed to break off one of the pins on the very end of the new chip while trying to get it seated. Doh! I felt like an idiot, but swallowed my pride, managed to reinstall the old chip back into the JB4, put everything in the engine bay back together, and made a rush order for another updated 24K22 chip. Thanks to Payam, it got out the same day and would be in my hands 48 hours later so I could try again.

In the meantime, I downloaded Fuel-It's iPhone app (previously I'd only been monitoring E85 content through the JB4 Mobile app) and took the car to add some more ethanol. Because prior to all the new parts, my HPFP was struggling to keep up, I had been running only a few gallons of E85 per tank to help with timing while running mostly pump gas -- E17 in this case.



Fuel-It's app connects via Bluetooth to the analyzer to show ethanol content and fuel temperature, and also includes this very helpful E85 calculator for mixing.



After using the calculations above to achieve E50, and allowing the new mixture to make its way past the ethanol sensor and into the engine, we were looking at an actual E49 mixture. For what I was targeting, that's pretty accurate and also confirms I have a reliable source of E85.



The second time around, I was able to get the PI integrated chip installed successfully. From there I flashed the BMS ST TS E85 PI THR BEF, switched to map 2 (17psi), set fuel bias to 50 across the board, set FF low, set my DWP to 80, set my open loop to 0, set meth scaling to 99, and made sure menu 8 was on option 0 through the steering wheel controls. After all this, the port injection and dual fuel pump setup should be ready and active.









Unfortunately the rain has been a nuisance for the last week or so, so I wasn't able to get any multi-gear logs, but I was able to get on the throttle enough in third gear to take some short logs that confirmed the PI was flowing properly -- this could be seen by looking at the fuel enrichment column on the JB4 logs. In addition, the trims were looking excellent and high and low pressures looked steady. Even at map 2's 17psi, the port injection E85 tune was a night and day difference compared to the pump gas tune, and spooled noticeably faster.

It also feels nice to be running so many modifications with not a single warning light on the dash.



Finally, I should be ready to rock n' roll with this single turbo now that it has all the fuel it needs. I can't wait to see what E60 and 23psi will feel like. I'll be posting up some 3rd-4th gear pulls on map 2 sometime this week, weather pending, so I can confirm everything looks good when WOT for an extended period.
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      08-06-2018, 02:51 PM   #301
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I'm so excited to see this lol
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"Tobias" 2013 135i ///M-Sport 6MT Avant Garde M310's cp-e Charge Pipe Seibon CF M3 Hood Custom Exhaust & Cutout JB4
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      08-12-2018, 09:03 PM   #302
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Back when I was installing this latest round of fueling mods, I touched on the fact that I had found my aluminum guibo completely destroyed.



I had attributed this failure to all the clunking and drivetrain vibration I'd been experiencing in 1st and 2nd gears. While the car was up on stands, I swapped back in the OEM rubber guibo the car came with back in 2008 and torqued everything back in. Keep in mind, I did not drop the mid-pipe portion of the exhaust, nor did I drop the heat shielding above that shields the driveshaft from the elements. When I got the car back on the road to test out the port injection and second Walbro 450, it seemed that most of the problem had been resolved. I could still feel the vibration I was experiencing with the aluminum guibo, but it had become much more manageable.

Over the next few weeks, however, things had gotten worse and most of the vibration had returned in 1st and 2nd gear. In fact, in 1st gear under anything but the lightest of throttle, it sounded like the driveshaft was making contact with metal. I limped the car to my garage, and got the car back on stands again. To my surprise, the guibo was still intact and didn't look ripped in the slightest.



This meant the center support bearing was the next possible failure spot, but getting a clear view of that portion of the driveshaft meant dropping the mid-pipe and heat shielding. At that point, it was obvious the center support bearing was destroyed and the culprit of the harshness I'd been experiencing.

The other obvious issue was that back when I'd dropped the driveshaft to upgrade my clutch/flywheel earlier in the year, I had not paid close enough attention to the orientation and installed it upside down. This was putting the angle of the driveshaft slightly off kilter, and therefore trashing the center support bearing itself, as well as the guibo.



I was disappointed in my dumb mistake, but it's not the first nor the last I'll make while wrenching, and now I know for sure what was causing the issue. I used FCPEuro to pick up a brand new OEM BMW guibo and center support bearing. The lifetime warranty on some of these wear and tear items is valuable in my eyes.

I started at the guibo end of the driveshaft and disconnected those 6 bolts. Most DIYs I reviewed recommended pulling the driveshaft at the differential end, but I did not have the 50mm open end wrench in order to remove the oversized nut. This meant leaving the driveshaft attached at the differential, disconnecting the two bolts securing the center support bearing, and pulling back the rubber boot to expose the splines of the driveshaft.

At this point, you'll want to mark the two ends of the driveshaft so they can be reassembled in the exact same way they were removed. The driveshaft is balanced as a single unit and has weights in certain areas for vibration free driving. From there, a 3 jaw puller made light work of getting the center bearing removed from the driveshaft.



Old parts compared to the new ones.



New guibo on the left, old cracked guibo on the right.



To install the new center support bearing, make sure the old one is installed in the same orientation as the old one. I marked mine just to be sure. I used a pipe that was slightly larger than the driveshaft spline and a rubber mallet to push the bearing up the shaft and into place. A press was not needed.

This time around, I made sure I had the center support bearing properly rotated before bolting it down. This made a huge difference in how the driveshaft sits, and tucks much better up in the tunnel.



Final look at both ends after bolting everything back down properly. When reinstalling the guibo, make sure the arrows on the outer ring are pointing towards a flange. That will ensure everything is oriented properly.





Hopefully this can help someone else avoid this very avoidable problem. At least both of the guibo and center support bearing are considered wear and tear items, so its nice to know there's fresh rubber in there.
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