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[FactorX81]

I will try measuring it tonight. I may be thinking about the rear.

[crex]

I had rubbing in the same place but was running 225 pss. I had an alignment done and that helped but it still rubs on big dips and bumps.

[Expert@ApexWheels]

FactorX81, it seems like the rubbing is due to the Michelin PSS having a meatier sidewall than other brands. Many members are running this size/brand/model tire without issue, but we do recommend as much negative camber as possible on any fitment including cars with stock suspensions. The area causing the rubbing is on the plastic bumper tab in the front fenders. This is an area of plastic that many members with really wide tires or larger wheels/tires slightly trim as it's nothing more than a triangle of support. It's even more common for this plastic area to self-clearance itself over the course of a few days weeks, and then the rubbing stops.

Pulling the alignment pins to maximize the negative camber with the OEM suspension would be the quickest solution to alleviate or minimize the rubbing issue. Even though they’re called alignment pins they only align the struts during production and have nothing to do with wheel alignment. Upon pulling the alignment pins, one would be able to push the struts in to gain more negative camber than OEM specifications, usually around -0.7 degrees of camber. Any alignment shops would be able to align the car and maximize the negative camber by having the struts pushed in all the way when performing the alignment. Additional negative camber balances a BMWs handling and significantly increases its performance. By adding negative camber to the front you can more perfectly balance a BMW’s handling by creating similar levels of grip, front and rear.

GarrettF & angler, we are currently doing research in order to find the exact reason why a couple cars are touching the strut. We can confirm there is nothing out of spec with the wheels. This is clearly a change in the suspension for some range of production. It could be a strut, knuckle, or wheel bearing change, and we are researching what part is different that could result in effectively making the wheel closer to the strut tube than all the other 1 series models. We believe this may only affect convertibles, but it may affect all 1-series after a certain production date. We are setting up 1-series models to come in for test fitments in house, as well as researching the different part numbers of the struts and knuckles of all the different variations of the 1-series so that we can better understand if there was a change. Our theory from what data we have is that the convertibles are affected by having a different strut than the coupe counterparts, however we've had convertible customers use our wheels in the past without any issues at all. Thus, we are looking to further research and collect data before we can come upon a conclusion.

As of now, we are letting all interested 1-series owners know of this rare strut clearance issue with the wheels so that they understand that there may be a need for a small spacer, though not in every instance. We'll provide spacers to any customer who is encountering the strut tube contact issue.

[FactorX81]

Thanks David, as far as self clearancing you have a good point that is the only spot I could see that may have been rubbing and I haven't heard a rub after the first couple of days even driving over the same spots. I do plan on pulling the pins and having it aligned with as much negative camber as possible to be on the safe side.