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12-02-2013, 08:47 PM | #1 |
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Hello and N54 into E87
Hello to all,
I have been lurking the forums for some time now, and thought it time to say hello. A bit of background on me: I currently drive a Nissan 180SX (RWD 4cyl turbo with 205HP - for those playing at home), which I have had for 8 years, and I purchased as my first car. This has been a fantastically fun car to drive, however, it is very much worse for wear now, and it is time to move on (will be a sad day ). During that time I have have managed to save up some money, and I am now looking at something similar, but more 'prestige' and comfortable, and less 'boy-racer'. A friend of mine at work drives a very clean and neat 118i, and after taking a ride in it, I think I have fallen in love. A small hatch, and rear wheel drive. I don't think anything else needs to be said. Over the last few weeks, I have been doing a lot of research into various 1-series models. I started looking for a 130i, however, there are very few of these around for sale, I have had a look at all those available that are within driving distance, and both have been in not quite the condition I would be happy with. So I have conceded that I will have to wait some time for one to appear which I would be happy to purchase/own. However, more recently, I saw a wrecked 2009 135i automatic, convertible, which is up for auction. It is damaged but has been classified as a statutory write-off. And so this has got me thinking. 118i + N54 Through my searching, I have seen this conversion done by some guy in Norway, and it seems that it's possible, but I want to work out how hard it might be. I tried to PM the guy but no luck on a response yet. And I am running out of time to make the purchase so I want to start increasing my harvest of information so I can make a well informed decision when it comes to crunch time, as there is very little other info about this on the web, it seems. I appreciate that some of these questions will probably only be able to be answered by someone who as done the conversion, but I chose to include them, just in case someone does have the information. The intention is to do all the work at 'home', and not pay for any labour, except as a last resort. I have some questions that I hope someone can provide answers to some of them for me before I jump in and make the purchase, or before I start taking apart both cars and get stuck, and am left with two incomplete vehicles... (5) and (less so) (12) are my biggest worries. Mainly due to a my current lack of information. 1. Is there anyone else that has done this conversion and knows how hard it is? To give you an idea: My team consists of 3 mechanical engineers working in the auto industry, who have all done various engine conversions on early 90's Japanese cars, as well as my father: recently retired electrical engineer with many years experience in auto industry. 2. I would prefer a manual car, and as the donor car is automatic, do you think this limits me? Do you think I would have to purchase an automatic 118i and use that as the 'project' car to avoid mega-complications? 3. If no to (2), would it be possible to purchase a manual 118i, and reuse the transmission onto the rear of the N54 motor? My guess is no. 4. If no to (3), would it be easy enough, if I purchased a second hand manual transmission from a N54 (or N52) and used that in a manual 118i for the conversion. Or would there be some other parts missing, for example MT ECU, drive shaft, differential, clutch master...? Causing a cost blowout. 5. Will I have to do any splicing of wires? Meaning, will I have to cut and solder any of the wiring harnesses for the conversion. THIS is my biggest worry. Or will it be a simple plug and play with the connectors? 6. Will I have to get anything fabricated? 7. Will it be a simple job of swapping the motor, ECU, engine-bay harness, and the other little bits & pieces in the engine bay, and everything will work? Will there need to be modifications to the interior (electrics or whatever)? Front subframe can be retained? 8. Donor car has iDrive, would this limit me to a 'project' car with iDrive? Or is this system completely separate to the engine, harness and ECU? 9. Does the drive shaft fit from one to the other, also the differential? Can the differential be retained, or should it be changed? (supposing auto into auto 118i conversion) 10. The plan would be to change over as much as possible: suspension, brakes, etc. Is the steering rack different between the models of the same year? Different ratio, or feel, whatever. 11. Donor car, is 2009, so I assume LCA, does that mean that the 'project' car should also be LCA? 12. What's the deal with electric steering? Will the donor car have electric steering? Will the project car need elecric steering if that is the case? what is the month/year of the change over. I was able to find VERY little information on this, so anything on this topic would be helpful, if someone has a link - AUS specific, as I've found some good info on US market , but it seems to vary by region. Please keep in mind that I would like to minimise inital cost, so if there are certain things that could be (easily) changed later, but would work now, for example "the 118i differential would mate up, but would be too weak, and might not last long, and could break" then I would be happy to leave it for the time being (and save up for an LSD or something.) I have allocated around AUD 5,000 on top of purchase price of both vehicles to spend on replacing broken bits, and maybe some labour. I am very excited about the prospect of this conversion. Thanks in advance to all for reading through the whole thing, and I look forward to your replies. |
12-02-2013, 10:32 PM | #2 |
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Hi and welcome to the forum..
Why not just go and look out for a cheap 135i coupe.. Surely the cost of purchasing a 118i hatch and a totaled 135i vert and retro fitting the N54 and mechanicals, would have to come close to the cost of a 135i coupe. Just my 2 cents... otherwise good luck with the conversion. Last edited by Zuzu; 12-02-2013 at 10:46 PM.. |
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12-02-2013, 10:47 PM | #3 |
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You might think so, but, apparently not.
Besides, I really like the 5dr hatch shape, and I want to move into something more practical than what I have, that can carry 4 adults instead of 2 adults and 2 quadruple-amputees... |
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12-02-2013, 10:55 PM | #4 | |
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Good luck again if you decide to go ahead. |
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12-02-2013, 11:04 PM | #5 | |||||||||||
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12-02-2013, 11:55 PM | #6 |
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If I did this, id strip the 118 completely down the shell and try and fit everything from the 135i into that shell.
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12-02-2013, 11:59 PM | #7 |
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I agree with ZUZU on this one…. Save your $$$$ and just buy a 135i straight up… Sir Flinch-a-lot is currently "Building" his dream machine. I think by the time he's finished petrol cars will be extinct.
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12-03-2013, 12:00 AM | #8 | |
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Yes, I think I would be leaving it as AT with the ECU from the donor car, just to not complicate things. ECU would be from a 135i, not 335i. Donor car is a complete car. |
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12-03-2013, 12:04 AM | #9 | |
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Reasonable amount of space, I'd only be concerned if you're ferrying around 7foot basketball players every day I wouldn't go near a project like this unless I had a lot of time and money Golf R or Audi S3 etc as alternatives? |
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12-03-2013, 12:07 AM | #11 | |
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12-03-2013, 12:17 AM | #13 |
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I have seen a few sucessful engine transplants, but they all have some form of glitch (A/C wont work, CEL keeps popping up) and never drive like a factory car should oh and are always go way over the allocated build timeframe and budget.
The initial sums sometimes look as though it will be cheaper and most handy diy types fall into the trap of i will save $ and do all the work myself, but then when you have to pay an auto electrican 30 hrs to diagnose the issue as to why it wont start, parts that should have fitted but wont, parts that are missing/damaged in the half cut etc As mentioned buy a 135i, otherwise just buy a 130i if you must have the hatch. |
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12-03-2013, 12:42 AM | #14 |
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+ 1 just buy a 135, or if you need a 4 door buy a 335, both much cheaper options IMO
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12-03-2013, 12:43 AM | #15 |
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http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...light=1m+hatch
That's the only successful one I've seen posted about on these forums. For the cost involved i'd just buy a running 135.. or a 335 wagon if you really need the space. |
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12-03-2013, 03:30 AM | #17 | ||
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Drives: BSM e82 135i
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It's true but Our garage and most of the house if just full of THINGS In other news I got my Cobb today Far more progress with my 135 at least?? |
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12-03-2013, 03:51 AM | #18 | ||||
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Bastards! <3
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I haven't outsourced any of the labour, just the machine work and getting the timing stuff back together (the 'proper' tools total $1200 odd, it's cheaper lol) and the head work (i don't have a valve seat machine, nor decades of knowledge) :P - will be pulling N52 and bolting in N54 myself... especially now i have a reference car ;D.. plus, the N54 'experienced' shops said 'hell no, not interested' and the interested 'funny swap' shops didn't have any more of an idea than i did anyway... plus pocketing the thousands it'd cost interested me... and, i'm close, just gotta buy parts, ship it (head) off, reassemble.. now i have the funds lol Quote:
1 - well i haven't done it... but with that much experience behind you, you have no worries 2 - you can sell the 6AT, buy a 6MT, and re-code the ECU to 'manual' basically.. so it doesn't complain about the missing TCU, the donor engine i have is auto as well, bought a 6MT from the UK and just need clutch+flywheel to match. ECU's are the same, just a few 'boxes' ticked 3 - bellhousing probably different (i'm 99% sure it is between the N52 and N54 anyway) plus as above, much much much weaker. 4 - absolutely. diff ratios will be different to original car/motor anyway. 5 - totally plug and play. ECU>JBE (junction box, below fusebox)>rest of car. check part numbers, JBE in 118i of your year should be shared between MANY other models... you'll need all the electronics, DME (ECU) obviously, CAS (car access system aka immobiliser) and dash cluster.. and key. 6 - driveshaft length .. shortened? just measure it. engine and transmission mounts are the same, .. everything in the engine bay will fit 100%, just need all the right brackets etc. 7 - yes - as for 118i subframe... from memory checking realoem, all E8x front subframes are shared, i know the 130i>135i is. easy to check. 8 - similar to the 6AT>6MT thing, have to turn off idrive in the ECU, or it'd complain the module is missing... or just swap the lot in if all the electrics are there? You'd need the right dash in the E87 though if it didn't have idrive. this = cost blowout, i'd probably avoid it lol. 9 - 118i will have the 'small' pumpkin, with a smaller ring gear = weaker. (as mentioned above) - driveshaft length is different between models, as well as E82>E87.. flanges are all the same though, so 'kinda' 10 - check realoem again, for 118 in particular... apart from active steering, i'd go 99% no. 11 - as above no, mostly cosmetic 12 - active steering is an option, fitting active to a non active car or vice versa... possible? sure, and if the donor car has it all, take it all. otherwise no, they came with hydraulic. $5k .. may be optimistic, depending... depending on if you KNOW the engine is running fine.. you'd probably want things like water pump, fuel pump, plugs at least.. and if there's any problems after install, HPFP, injectors, coils could all be on the cards in tank fuel pump from donor vehicle (new one preferred too?) engine+trans mounts (actually not a bad price)... clutch+flywheel ($800-$1k?) if going manual.. 135i brakes for $1k-$1500 to get it legally engineered (and .. you know, stop a bit better) as a minimum, either that or go baller 1M/M3 brakes, which annihilates the budget with everything else needed just DONT do what i did and tear it to pieces, it's a solid $1500 odd just to get the thing back together with all the gaskets, one time use bolts, and seals (and water pump iirc. mine being shattered... luckily everything else is in good nick) - and if it's an early one, possibly cam trays (and associated reassembly costs)... let alone the $10k in 'improvements' available... (yeah, it's a $15-$20k odd exercise for me, but gets a fully built motor at least..) Quote:
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i want to do it for the cool factor, not neccessarily cost saving.. though the way i've priced it out, a $20k 130i.. sell engine+trans etc. and do what i'm doing, it works out a little less than a 135, with a better motor + other things *shrug* without opening it up, and nothing broken... $5-10k would be a reasonable budget. Last edited by flinchy; 12-03-2013 at 06:04 AM.. |
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12-03-2013, 02:31 PM | #21 |
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there are more half finished projects in guys garages than finished ones.
Think about it before you start the project, BMW is maybe the hardest car to sort out due to its leading edge automotive electronic technology. Again don't do it there is nothing to prove and who cares Just go and get a high km 135 or if a 4 door is your call get a E90 335 there are plenty of cheap ones around. |
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12-03-2013, 04:44 PM | #22 | |||||||||||
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Wow. First of all, thank you for all that information!
Let me address some points. Keep in mind, the donor vehicle will be complete Quote:
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I'm guessing cost blowout because of drive-shaft, diff and half-shafts, hubs? unique to N54 6MT? Or unique to just 6MT? Quote:
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Because donor vehicle is complete, with 135i brakes ready for the taking. Should be an easy swap I would think. Quote:
I have not yet seen the car in the flesh, however, photos show what looks to be like minor modifications. Pod filters, and a white 'canister' where there is not mean to be anything... someone suggested it might be meth injection? But either way, I will be happy with the standard motor. The car should be a lot quicker than my current car at the moment, so that's all I need. Quote:
And I am happy to spend $5k on top of purchase price, and more if it includes a 6MT conversion Some more questions: 13. How easy is it to pull the motor/box? Someone suggested I should look into borrowing a hoist and dropping the subframe, reversing what happens at the factory. Would you recommend this? It would be difficult to organise, but not impossible. I also know that some new cars, you find that you can almost unbolt the front end and pull the engine out forwards (or something to that effect). Is this one of those cars? I forget what else... will edit this post if I remember soon enough. But, I guess if you could elaborate on my question above, and give me an idea of how much extra it would cost to include a manual conversion. Cheers! Last edited by Kkuba; 12-03-2013 at 05:07 PM.. |
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