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      11-23-2018, 04:58 PM   #1
fe1rx
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Rear Subframe Bushings - OE vs M3 vs Aluminum

Here are some section views of OE vs M3 vs Aluminum rear subframe bushings. It is clear to me that BMW's bushings are highly engineered to provide different specific stiffness properties in the forward, side and vertical axes. For the sections on the RH side, forward is into the screen.

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      11-24-2018, 04:06 AM   #2
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New M cars have the subframe directly bolted to the body, i guess they figured it out for us.
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      11-28-2018, 01:34 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traf View Post
New M cars have the subframe directly bolted to the body, i guess they figured it out for us.
I am not sure i follow, subframes are always bolted directly to the chassis?

However, i do not see the subframe bushings available on the M2 for example, at least in the parts diagram, or is that what you are referring to as "directly to the body" and nothing in between?
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      11-28-2018, 01:54 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Head View Post
I am not sure i follow, subframes are always bolted directly to the chassis?

However, i do not see the subframe bushings available on the M2 for example, at least in the parts diagram, or is that what you are referring to as "directly to the body" and nothing in between?
The bushings are always bolted to the car, the subframes themselves are not. In the case of the M2, like the new M3 and M4, has the subframe bolted to the car body, without bushings. The bushings you see on the part list are the differential bushings.
Note that the M3 CRT and M3 GTS back in the days also had the subframe solidely mounted to the body.
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      11-28-2018, 07:11 PM   #5
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Just did aluminium RSFBs. Phenomenal different.
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      12-06-2018, 07:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Just did aluminium RSFBs. Phenomenal different.
Im sure you got some noise and vibrations too right?
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      12-07-2018, 12:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Head View Post
Im sure you got some noise and vibrations too right?
I went from 135i OEM -> Alekshop Aluminum/Delrin -> TMS Solid Bushings and couldn't tell any difference in NVH. If I did it over I would go straight to solid no question. I believe the solid subframe bushings alone do not add any NVH but you may get some if you have other solid bushings (ie solid diff bushings as well).

Last edited by dbronnik; 12-11-2018 at 04:24 PM.. Reason: Wrong history of SFB :)
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      12-07-2018, 07:40 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Head View Post
Im sure you got some noise and vibrations too right?
No increased NVH over stock+inserts.
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      12-07-2018, 07:57 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
No increased NVH over stock+inserts.
Damn thats a surprise....are they fully solid aluminum? no rubber at all?
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      12-07-2018, 01:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Head View Post
Damn thats a surprise....are they fully solid aluminum? no rubber at all?
No rubber whatsoever.
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...SABEgJXofD_BwE
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      12-09-2018, 12:14 PM   #11
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Also switching from whiteline to full alum soon, afraid of diff whine a little bit.
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      12-09-2018, 06:49 PM   #12
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Any preference on the Turner vs. Bimmerworld? The Turner solid alu are on sale right now for about $40 less than the Bimmerworld ones.

Any reason to go with the Delrin + Alu like the Alekshop bushings?

Thanks.
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      12-10-2018, 02:12 AM   #13
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I'd say get the cheapest ones... I'm only switching cause i got mine for cheap.
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      12-10-2018, 03:08 AM   #14
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aluminum only!
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      12-10-2018, 09:39 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135ivert View Post
Any preference on the Turner vs. Bimmerworld? The Turner solid alu are on sale right now for about $40 less than the Bimmerworld ones.

Any reason to go with the Delrin + Alu like the Alekshop bushings?

Thanks.
Turner's are bare aluminum:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4...e82-1m-e9x-m3/

Bimmerworld's appear to be anodized, which is a nice feature and perhaps worth the $40 premium:

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Aluminum...-1-Series.html

The only argument for Delrin is if you need to satisfy a rule set that requires a non-metallic bushing. They don't provide any structural advantage over solid aluminum.
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      12-10-2018, 06:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traf View Post
Also switching from whiteline to full alum soon, afraid of diff whine a little bit.
Whiteline inserts or 2-piece poly bushings? I've got the 2-piece that I'm getting ready to install, and now this darn thread has me wondering about aluminum.

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      12-11-2018, 10:33 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duder13 View Post
Whiteline inserts or 2-piece poly bushings? I've got the 2-piece that I'm getting ready to install, and now this darn thread has me wondering about aluminum.

2 pcs, pretty easy to install you don't need to remove the subframe to do it.
Alum shouldn't be too hard either as they insert from the bottom.
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      12-11-2018, 12:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traf View Post
2 pcs, pretty easy to install you don't need to remove the subframe to do it.
Alum shouldn't be too hard either as they insert from the bottom.
Aluminum bushings (I hear) are generally installed with a hydraulic press, with the subframe out of the car. Generally. If I were to do Aluminum bushings, I'd freeze the bushings over night and heat the bushing holes just before install.

I did this when building my LSD; I put the differential mechanism itself in the freezer overnight, put the inner bearing races in the oven for about 30 minutes, and boom...they dropped right on, and I had a press-fit job done with very, very little effort, and no press. The diff is still the best, and most educational thing I've done to the car so far...
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      12-11-2018, 01:31 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
Aluminum bushings (I hear) are generally installed with a hydraulic press, with the subframe out of the car. Generally. If I were to do Aluminum bushings, I'd freeze the bushings over night and heat the bushing holes just before install.

I did this when building my LSD; I put the differential mechanism itself in the freezer overnight, put the inner bearing races in the oven for about 30 minutes, and boom...they dropped right on, and I had a press-fit job done with very, very little effort, and no press. The diff is still the best, and most educational thing I've done to the car so far...
I did the alum bushings with standard bushing tool.
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      12-11-2018, 03:10 PM   #20
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Bimmerworld units are indeed anodised. Mine were all black anodised unlike the picture on the site. They were also longitudinally drilled out for weight reduction rather than a 100% solid brick. Didn't get to weigh them.

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      12-11-2018, 04:27 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135ivert View Post
Any preference on the Turner vs. Bimmerworld? The Turner solid alu are on sale right now for about $40 less than the Bimmerworld ones.

Any reason to go with the Delrin + Alu like the Alekshop bushings?

Thanks.
(IMHO)

If you're also planning on doing engine mounts/diff bushings, perhaps consider the Alekshop ones over the solid ones. They'll help to prevent NVH from the diff at least.

If you're only going to do the RSFB, and have a fairly stiff suspension with M3 arms, etc. then I'd just go straight to the solid ones.
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      12-11-2018, 04:55 PM   #22
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Great info, thanks everyone. I know that the 2-piece Whitelines that I was preparing to get installed are quite a bit easier to install than the M3 bushings. If I change my mind and go solid aluminum, should I assume they'll be even tougher than the M3 bushings to install? I'm just trying to get an idea of install costs. Thanks!
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