BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      04-28-2019, 10:55 AM   #23
Geojoe3333
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Hey all!

I've been through the battery replacement thing recently and have found this tool extremely useful, not just to register batteries but also to read code and fix your ride. The link is posted below, very affordable and opens up the dialog between you and your finely tuned machine. You can replace the battery with whatever type you wish, just make sure all the connections are there from your factory to new and everything fits right, from there just register it properly in the vehicle and you should be good to go.

Scan Tool Automotive Scanner for...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZB2MWL...p_mob_ap_share
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      06-06-2019, 10:30 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geojoe3333 View Post
Hey all!

I've been through the battery replacement thing recently and have found this tool extremely useful, not just to register batteries but also to read code and fix your ride. The link is posted below, very affordable and opens up the dialog between you and your finely tuned machine. You can replace the battery with whatever type you wish, just make sure all the connections are there from your factory to new and everything fits right, from there just register it properly in the vehicle and you should be good to go.

Scan Tool Automotive Scanner for...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZB2MWL...p_mob_ap_share
I just ordered the model 7910 of the same scanner, 30% off coupon and supposed to have more battery testing options. My question does it just register like battery or can u change battery types?
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      06-10-2019, 01:45 PM   #25
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I looked at the user manual from the Amazon product listing and it says you can change battery size and type (flooded versus AGM). That seems like a pretty good option for a one time ~$100 expense.
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      07-20-2019, 05:55 PM   #26
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Maan, I know there's been time since this topic exists, but you saved me lots of time. That's the best description of battery replacement procedure on E series in the whole Internet.

I used this guide to replace battery on E84, and it helped me waaay.

Here are couple of cents to add for E84.

Tools and help you would need.

1. A 1/4" ratchet.
2. 10 mm and 13 mm heads (the 13 mm one is only needed to remove the but that holds the bolt for red battery control module (whatever it is, next to the positive terminal; all other nuts are 10 mm ones).
3. A 250+ mm extender for the ratchet (this one is needed to unscrew the bolt that holds the metal plate near the negative terminal and fixes the battery down to the car body).
4. If you're doing it for the first time, it would be great if there were someone who could assist you with a torch.

Comments

1. To remove the metalic clips of the red battery control module, you have to insert the flat screw driver down along the metallic clip and pull the screw driver aside from the battery side towards the walls of car body. The S-shaped metallic clip holds the power control module to the walls of the battery. (Gee, with my English it hardly could help anyone, but who knows)
Releasing the clips turned out to be the hardest part of the work.

2. When you will be screwing the bolt that pins the metallic plate to the body, make sure to put it down on the car trunk's floor before inserting the new battery. The 10 mm socket that I used to unscrew the plate's bolt wasn't magnetic. I couldn't position the plate properly failing to fit the bolt into the hole in the trunk's floor. The plate has three notches that should clip into the battery and a bolt that you should screw into the car's floor when there three notches are positioned properly.

3. If you are using an Exide AGM battery, it could be that the vent hole in the battery that is next to the positive terminal will be capped. Mine has a rubber cap inserted into the vent hole of the battery. Only the vent hole that is close to the negative terminal was open. Unlatch the cap with your nail to open the vent whole on the side of the positive terminal and then cap the hole next to the negative terminal.

All in all, this is a ridiculously awkward procedure, dear BMW. It's not a big deal when you do it for the second time, but you'd expect a much more easier way to replace such a part as the battery from a manufacturer that produces premium products. Imagine you're 1000 miles away from the BMW service shop, and your battery died. Why would you go through such a mess with gazillion of wires when it should be a pull out / push in procedure?

Thanks a lot to the members of this forum and Mark08EX, this is because of you I could manage with replacement much easier than I expected. Hopping BMW will publish this procedure somewhere on their papers.
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      10-07-2019, 12:08 PM   #27
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I need to replace my battery this week. Looking into what battery to purchase, but I have Carly for Registration, so that's no worry.
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      10-07-2019, 12:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k View Post
I need to replace my battery this week. Looking into what battery to purchase, but I have Carly for Registration, so that's no worry.
The WalMart H8 is their biggest and least expensive of the three sizes that work in our cars. I think it's less expensive b/c it's such an unusual size (big!) thus less in demand.
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      10-08-2019, 07:58 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
The WalMart H8 is their biggest and least expensive of the three sizes that work in our cars. I think it's less expensive b/c it's such an unusual size (big!) thus less in demand.
I'm trying to figure out which size to get. My original is not marked with a size and my searches on Autozone are coming up with options in H6, 7, and 8.
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      10-08-2019, 08:59 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k View Post
I'm trying to figure out which size to get. My original is not marked with a size and my searches on Autozone are coming up with options in H6, 7, and 8.
All 3 fit because of the adjustable bracket. I went with the H8 (~80Ah) as it was the largest - my car has most available options.
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      09-22-2020, 01:31 PM   #31
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2013 BMW 128i  [10.00]
Just replaced the original battery (Week 33 of 2012) in my 2013 128i with a new BMW battery. New one was larger and used the longest-size trunk mounting hole. Made for a bit of effort to get the plate back in the floor. Used Schwaben/Foxwell scan tool to register. Asked me a bunch of questions on markings on battery I never found. Probably should have taken a photo of the new batter prior to installation. Just told the scanner it was the same size (Ah) battery and used the date code on a sticker when it asked me for some number at/near the negative terminal. The old one had a date stamp in the terminal so I figured that's what it wanted. 4-digit number, no spaces. Seemed to work.

I'd been having some issues of "low voltage" warning after the car sat for a couple of days with the iPod still connected (if that made any difference) and with the dash information display so cramped anyway, I wanted to get rid of the warning triangle. It never failed to start. Pretty impressive life for a Varta battery! If I put it on my C-Tech charger with the "reconditioning" cycle, it would be fine for over a week if I didn't leave lots of things active, or the doors open, or the radio on without the engine running. The first clue I was going to get the "low voltage" warning would be loss of comfort-access to open the locked doors. I'd have to use the key button, at least once, to reactivate CA. I assume this is some protection that shuts off non-vital electrical consumers so the car will always at least start. Schwaben battery history test showed last battery at 55% and new one, not charged since manufactured, registered 75%.

On the instructions here for the clips on the side of the red-plastic positive terminal mass, if you just reach under where it clips, and simply pull out with your fingers, it released on mine quite simply. I started with the screwdriver but it made no sense.
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      06-01-2021, 08:07 PM   #32
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So I had a completely dead battery and I was able to pop the hood really easy. Just take the divers side kidney grill off. It’s not really needed but makes it way easier. Just to the left of the hood pin you will see a C shaped groove on the latch itself. Push that to the left about 1/4” with a Phillips screwdriver and it will pop open the hood. Once I figured out how to actually do it. It takes a few secs to do. I might make a YouTube tutorial if someone needs a visual.
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      07-28-2021, 10:59 AM   #33
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I had to replace my battery again recently and i had to go through my own DIY to remember what to do LOL.

bmw1racer, The autoenginuity tool I used to register the battery before was borrowed from a friend. Unfortunately, he moved to a different state so i couldn't borrow it anymore. I just purchased Carly for BMW and it allowed me to register the battery to the car. It was easy to use too.
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      09-04-2021, 10:09 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc08EX View Post
I never thought that replacing a battery could be so complicated. BMW: why do you have to make the battery system so complicated!

When my car died last week, I thought I could just replace the battery with whatever's available in an auto parts store. Then I found out that there are different types, Ah, CCA's, etc. I also found out that each car from the exact same model and exact same model year could have different batteries!!! I was literally doing this --> So it's best to stick with whatever battery specs you have installed in your car unless you are planning to code it.

I tried searching the forum on how to replace the battery but I didn't find any. For some, this process might be simple but I just wanted to help out anybody who's intimidated by changing the battery because of the system complications and how much stuff the battery has on top of it.

On to the DIY...

First check your battery specs. I have a lead-acid battery with 80Ah and 640CCA. Like I said earlier, try to keep the specs the same as your old battery unless you're planning to code it. My old battery's part number is 61 21 7 604 815. Jason @ Tischer helped me out a lot and he said that this battery is obsolete and that the new replacement part number is 61 21 2 353 808. If your current battery has different specs, ask Jason or your local dealer what your replacement part number is. Unfortunately, batteries can't be shipped out because it's considered hazardous material so you have to buy this from your local dealer if you choose to stick with OEM.

Here's a list of tools you'll need:
  • Rachet
  • Rachet Extension
  • 10mm socket
  • Screw Driver


*** Please ignore the 13mm socket. From other videos I watched, they said you needed a 13mm. I didn't use it anywhere.

Your battery is located in the trunk. Pop the trunk and pop the carpet in order to expose the battery. Here's what you'll see:


*** Image taken from the web because my image came out blurry...

First step is to remove the 2 10mm nuts holding that black curved bracket.



Once you have this bracket removed, you'll now have access to the entire battery as shown:



Second step is to remove the battery's negative terminal using your 10mm socket and rachet. You don't need to completely remove the nut. Just loosen it enough to be able to remove the terminal.



Once you have the negative terminal removed, set it aside so that you don't accidentally hit it with anything.

Next step is to remove the battery's positive terminal along with that big red box on top of the battery. Flip up the cover as shown below to expose the positive terminal of the battery.



Again, use your 10mm socket and rachet to loosen this nut. You don't have to remove it. If your rachet is all metal like mine, make sure you don't hit any metal part of your car or it will cause a big short.

After loosening the positive terminal's nut, you now have to release the clips holding the big red power box to the sides of the battery. This is where your screw driver comes in. There are clips on either side and you just position your screw driver as shown below and pop them out.



After releasing the 2 metal holders, your entire red power box should come loose.



Next, remove the vent tube on the side of the battery near the positive terminal.



Next step is removing the metal plate near the negative terminal that holds the battery down to the car. In my case, there was just a bolt towards the bottom of the car. On other cars, there's a long bolt that goes all the way up to the same height as the terminals. So for my case, I needed to use an extension.



You can also see that there are 2 other holes near that plate. That's for accomodating different size batteries to your car.

Once all these steps are done, you are now ready to remove your battery. Just move everything to the side as much as you can and lift up your battery and out of the car. Please be careful as the battery is heavy.

Here's a comparison picture of my old battery and the new battery. As you can see, the size is different between the two.



Pop the new battery in place. Towards the front of the car, make sure that the lip at the bottom of the battery goes underneath the holder as shown below:



While you're at this step, connect back the vent tube to the battery as well.

Next step is to re-install the metal bracket beside the negative terminal that holds your battery in place. As you remember, the new battery is wider than the original battery and as a result, I had to use a different screw hole to install the holder.



After this, your battery should be bolted down to the floor securely and it shouldn't move. Give the battery a few tugs just to make sure it doesn't go anywhere.

Re-install the red terminal to the positive node of the battery. Tighten the screw down using your 10mm socket and rachet. Re-secure the metal tabs on either side of the battery as well. You should hear a clicking sound. Once these are done, the big red power box shouldn't move at all.



Re-install the negative terminal to the negative node of the battery and tighten the 10mm nut down. Mine sparked a little when I connected the terminal to the battery's negative node.

After, re-install the curved metal brace on top of the battery and secure it with the 2 10mm nuts.

Once you're done, you have to register your battery to the car. There are certain tools that do this. Or you can bring your car to an independent shop or dealer to have your battery registered.

Hope this helps out my fellow 1 series owners!

***DISCLAIMER: I will not be responsible for anything that happens to you or to your car when you perform this DIY. This is an article to help out fellow forum members on how to replace the battery. If you are uncomfortable doing this, bring your car to an independent shop or to the dealer and have them perform the work.***
Thank you for the walkthrough! I successfully used it yesterday.
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      03-08-2022, 10:01 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRuben09 View Post
Thank you for the walkthrough! I successfully used it yesterday.
Was it really necessary to quote the entire multi-page original post (complete with pics) all for just a one line reply?
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      06-08-2022, 09:05 PM   #36
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Good writeup. The 128 is definitely a battery hog especially as my wife only drives short trips around town with AC and stereo cranked. I just upgraded my 2012 128 battery from the stock H6 70 AH to an H8 AGM 95 AH. It does fit using the last screw socket in the battery compartment but it is very hard to get the screw in - no room for hands. I had to use a pickup tool to get it started. Used a Carly to “code” the change to agm(used 95AH selection) and to register. For those intimidated by “coding” , its a simple menu driven selection - no typing or compiling required. The only slight issue was the battery module did not show up until I started the car. If you use a Wifi Carly adapter, you also have to disconnect from any other wifi network and select the Carly adapter to connect to the car. Should have been obvious but took me a few minutes to realize 🙄.
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      07-14-2022, 06:38 PM   #37
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Battery died today after seven years despite being connected to a CTEK battery charger/maintainer on a daily basis.... Now I get to try out the DIY first hand.

Wish me luck.

Update: Had some anxiety about changing the battery because of the IBS crap mounted on the battery, but the DIY was great. Replaced the BMW stock battery with an AutoZone Duralast Gold battery. Probably will need to register the battery, seeing that its specs were higher than the original.

This is the second battery in ten years. I only had to replace the battery in my E36 once in the 18 years I owned it. Once again, new/high tech is not necessarily good tech.
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Last edited by bmw1racer; 07-14-2022 at 09:01 PM..
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