BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read




 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      05-08-2014, 08:30 PM   #67
obiwun
Private
obiwun's Avatar
4
Rep
61
Posts

Drives: AW(well very dirty) 1M
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Western Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ///1M View Post
Obiwun,
Do you prefer the Ohlins to stock?

Hi ///1M,
I only installed my Ohlins two days ago and I haven't had a chance to take a long drive yet and its been bucketing with rain here so it's a little hard to feel how the car really handles when it's so wet.
Ride quality wise, my initial impression is the increased spring rate is very noticeable. I come from a rally car background where I use shocks worth $10-15 000 with softer springs and the ohlins setup feels stiff, the car feels a little over sprung to me. Where my rally car would float and 'breathe' with the road in a damped manner the 1M is still quite unsettled on our rough country roads. But as i said, it early days for me and I still need to tune my ride heights and damping.

Around town the DFV seems to improve some of that low speed jiggle that you get over small sharp ridges. Overall, I wouldn't say the ride is a great improvement over stock. It is improved in some areas but compromised in others by the stiff springs. But if the handling increases are as great as people say then I would say its a worthwhile investment.

I will report back when I have a little more experience on the ohlins setup.


///T
Appreciate 0
      05-08-2014, 10:32 PM   #68
HP Autosport
General
United_States
2274
Rep
39,929
Posts

Drives: F80 M3
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Barbara, AP, Brembo, GIAC, Koni, Ohlins, Performance Friction, www.hpautosport.com

iTrader: (34)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua View Post
I finally got my ohlins installed with Vorshlag camber plates. What is the ideal stiffness for a street setup? Im driving on fairly bumpy roads most of the time.

Also should the fronts and rears be same stiffness or the rears slightly stiffer?
10 Clicks in or 20 clicks out as a starting point. There is not one correct setting, you will adjust to where the car feels the best to you.
Appreciate 0
      05-08-2014, 11:00 PM   #69
obiwun
Private
obiwun's Avatar
4
Rep
61
Posts

Drives: AW(well very dirty) 1M
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Western Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by MechE View Post
Adjustment range:
Based upon memory, I found that the front struts had about 28 clicks or total adjustment and the rear shocks about 36 clicks. During my limited testing, I felt that adjustments beyond the 20 click range from full stiff didnít cause damage, but they also didnít work very well. At over 20 clicks it seemed like the Dual Flow Valve might have been too free to move because the dampening was inconsistent. The car was almost under damped for small movements and then abruptly transitioned to normal dampening over larger movements. The transition was not pleasant when entering a corner. I settled on 13 clicks from full stiff for daily driving. Due to the different total range of adjustment front to rear, I think it is very important to base all adjustments relative to full stiff.

Adjuster extensions:
Sorry, I canít find my notes as to where I drilled the hole in the trunk liner, but I can describe the process. First, I temporarily installed the extensions on the shocks, and then measured the position of extension shaft relative to one of the liner mounting holes on the chassis. I then transferred this measurement to the liner itself starting from the corresponding mounting hole in the liner. Make sure to account for the slight offset in position due to the angle of the extension shaft and the gap between the top of the shock and the bottom of the liner. Fortunately, the extension shaft is flexible so it can compensate for small errors in alignment.

Orientation of sway bar bracket:
You should rotate the strut so that the rod ends on the link are in the center of their range of travel and therefore have maximum range of motion. If the strut is rotated too far in either direction, the rod ends might bind.

Overall, I think the Ohlins were a GREAT upgrade. At 13 clicks from full stiff, the car rides over small bumps (road reflectors) with much less harshness and motion while also feeling much better planted at high speeds. I also like the way it settles much faster from larger bumps and dips without being jarring. That said, it can feel pretty stiff over very large bumps. After the upgrade, the car feels like it is riding on a more expensive and sophisticated suspension. It just feels more refined. Iíve had the chance to compare my car back to back with an almost identical car on the stock suspension, and Iím definitely keeping the Ohlins.
Thankyou for the Great info MechE,

Yes, Adjusting from full stiff seems to be the reliable way to set the shock as per the instructions. I will keep my testing within the 20 click range, I'm currently at 17 clicks from stiff.

Sway bracket, interesting that there is nothing to key into the upright or align when assembling. I tried to take into account how the drop link angle would change when the car settled back down to ride height. I will have a look at ride heigh to make sure the rod ends aren't binding.

Adjuster extension, would it possible for somebody to measure the distance from the nearest panel clip to the centre of the remote adjuster hole like in the attached picture?

I'm currently driving without my boot liner and the rear seats are folded flat, its quite amazing to see how much deflection there is in the top bushings on the shock mount when driving along, the adjuster is bobbing up and down over every bump. I actually double checked to see if it was tightened and assembled correctly.

Thanks Again
Attached Images
 
Appreciate 0
      05-08-2014, 11:09 PM   #70
obiwun
Private
obiwun's Avatar
4
Rep
61
Posts

Drives: AW(well very dirty) 1M
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Western Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
10 Clicks in or 20 clicks out as a starting point. There is not one correct setting, you will adjust to where the car feels the best to you.
Hi, Can you please elaborate on this, I don't quite understand? '10 clicks in or 20 clicks out'. I was under the impression that there are 20 usable clicks measured from the fully in position.
Are you saying that 30 clicks are usable and the starting point is 10 clicks from hard?
Cheers
Appreciate 0
      05-08-2014, 11:32 PM   #71
HP Autosport
General
United_States
2274
Rep
39,929
Posts

Drives: F80 M3
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Barbara, AP, Brembo, GIAC, Koni, Ohlins, Performance Friction, www.hpautosport.com

iTrader: (34)

Quote:
Originally Posted by obiwun View Post
Hi, Can you please elaborate on this, I don't quite understand? '10 clicks in or 20 clicks out'. I was under the impression that there are 20 usable clicks measured from the fully in position.
Are you saying that 30 clicks are usable and the starting point is 10 clicks from hard?
Cheers
If you have an 1M/M3 kit, you should have 30 clicks of total adjustments.

That will depend on where you start your adjustments, Ohlins likes to start fully closed, I like to start at fully open. 10 Clicks in is fully open and 20 clicks is from fully closed, that is where you should start for a street car.
Appreciate 0
      05-08-2014, 11:47 PM   #72
MechE
Enlisted Member
United_States
37
Rep
39
Posts

Drives: 2011 1M
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Redmond, WA

iTrader: (1)

Obiwun,

I just measured the position of the extensions in my car relative to the clip in the photograph. Please note that I did not remove the clip so it is possible my measurements may have some error since the center of the clip doesnít necessarily align with the exact center of the hole in the liner.

1. Using a piece of paper as a flexible ďrulerĒ that conformed to the curve of the liner, in the vertical direction, the distance is approximately 60mm from center-to-center. I DID NOT force the template to conform to the divot around clip, just the general curve of the liner.
2. In the horizontal direction, the center of the extension hole is approximately 4mm closer to the rear of the car than the center of the panel clip.

I hope that helps,

John
Appreciate 0
      05-09-2014, 01:31 AM   #73
obiwun
Private
obiwun's Avatar
4
Rep
61
Posts

Drives: AW(well very dirty) 1M
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Western Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
If you have an 1M/M3 kit, you should have 30 clicks of total adjustments.

That will depend on where you start your adjustments, Ohlins likes to start fully closed, I like to start at fully open. 10 Clicks in is fully open and 20 clicks is from fully closed, that is where you should start for a street car.
Thanks for clearing that up, much appreciated. So I will start at 20 clicks from fully closed.
Appreciate 0
      05-09-2014, 01:32 AM   #74
obiwun
Private
obiwun's Avatar
4
Rep
61
Posts

Drives: AW(well very dirty) 1M
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Western Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by MechE View Post
Obiwun,

I just measured the position of the extensions in my car relative to the clip in the photograph. Please note that I did not remove the clip so it is possible my measurements may have some error since the center of the clip doesnít necessarily align with the exact center of the hole in the liner.

1. Using a piece of paper as a flexible ďrulerĒ that conformed to the curve of the liner, in the vertical direction, the distance is approximately 60mm from center-to-center. I DID NOT force the template to conform to the divot around clip, just the general curve of the liner.
2. In the horizontal direction, the center of the extension hole is approximately 4mm closer to the rear of the car than the center of the panel clip.

I hope that helps,

John

Wow, thanks for your efforts John. That will certainly make it easier for me to put the hole in the correct place. Thank you.
Toby
Appreciate 0
      05-09-2014, 04:11 AM   #75
Flatout
New Member
Sweden
0
Rep
6
Posts

Drives: 1M AW 2011
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Sweden

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by obiwun View Post
Thankyou for the Great info MechE,

Yes, Adjusting from full stiff seems to be the reliable way to set the shock as per the instructions. I will keep my testing within the 20 click range, I'm currently at 17 clicks from stiff.

Sway bracket, interesting that there is nothing to key into the upright or align when assembling. I tried to take into account how the drop link angle would change when the car settled back down to ride height. I will have a look at ride heigh to make sure the rod ends aren't binding.

Adjuster extension, would it possible for somebody to measure the distance from the nearest panel clip to the centre of the remote adjuster hole like in the attached picture?

I'm currently driving without my boot liner and the rear seats are folded flat, its quite amazing to see how much deflection there is in the top bushings on the shock mount when driving along, the adjuster is bobbing up and down over every bump. I actually double checked to see if it was tightened and assembled correctly.

Thanks Again
The easiest way to get the hole right is to drill the hole from below. Put the boot liner on place and drill a 10mm hole using the top mount as a guide.
__________________
÷hlins R&T whit adjuster extension. Millway rear alu subframe mounts and delrin differential mounts and front tension mono ball kit. BMWP SSK, shift/handbreake knob and boot. BMWP steering wheel 2 whit display. N55 mid pipe. Self made caliper brass guide bushings, front and rear.
Appreciate 0
      05-09-2014, 06:32 PM   #76
HP Autosport
General
United_States
2274
Rep
39,929
Posts

Drives: F80 M3
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Barbara, AP, Brembo, GIAC, Koni, Ohlins, Performance Friction, www.hpautosport.com

iTrader: (34)

Quote:
Originally Posted by obiwun View Post
Thanks for clearing that up, much appreciated. So I will start at 20 clicks from fully closed.
Yes, that will be a good starting point for street.
Appreciate 0
      05-12-2014, 12:07 PM   #77
Papethova
Banned
178
Rep
3,094
Posts

Drives: '08 135/ '11 1M
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: at Death Valley 127

iTrader: (1)

Just installed these, Im at 6 clicks. Maybe ill try 10 just to see.

I wish I installed them the first day i got the car.
Appreciate 0
      09-30-2014, 09:47 PM   #78
obiwun
Private
obiwun's Avatar
4
Rep
61
Posts

Drives: AW(well very dirty) 1M
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Western Australia

iTrader: (0)

So my Ohlins experience so far,
I feel that the Ohlins R&T on the 1M are very stiff. I'm not sure how they feel on the E92 but I reckon they would be stiff in that application too. I have thought about getting them re-valved and possibly sourcing some softer springs but I haven't had time and I don't know which vendor in Australia would give me reasonable service.

As far as settings go, my ride height is 5mm below standard ride height and have sort of settled on the following shock settings.
Front 13 clicks from fully stiff
Rear 22 clicks from fully stiff (I have something like 36 clicks in the rear). I have tried the rear as far as 2 clicks from fully open and I actually think it gets better. The front doesn't work so well when you take it past 15 clicks from stiff, I think it doesn't let the DFV function work properly.
With the settings mentioned above I feel that I am getting the most compliant ride possible for the current setup.

I do believe that the R&T has improved some elements of the 'on the limit' handling in the dry but this has compromised the on road comfort. An example where I feel a big improvement is high speed braking bumps, the car is much more settled. Basically any situation where you can put huge loads through the suspension will fell pretty good, any other time it just feels like the shock doesn't want to move. I feel the R&T is way too stiff for wet track/road conditions and even in the dry the suspension is pushing the limits of the michelin PSS.

I personally would have preferred a more road oriented Road and Track setup. I felt that the OEM suspension was too stiff which is why I installed the ohlins, all the reviews I read claimed the ohlins to ride better that OE but I'm not sure this is true. I wanted to make my 1M less frenetic and more predictable by softening the suspension and letting the body move in a controlled way before the grip lets go, I'm not sure I have achieved this but it has been a fun experience playing with the ohlins and learning about my 1M. At least the shocks look cool and they do some things better than OE and they are rebuildable.

I'd be interested to see how others have found their experience with the R&T's now that they have been using them for some time.

Toby
Appreciate 2
buddalun631.00

      10-05-2014, 02:28 PM   #79
MechE
Enlisted Member
United_States
37
Rep
39
Posts

Drives: 2011 1M
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Redmond, WA

iTrader: (1)

Obiwun,

My experience with the Ohlins is more positive than yours. I just came back from a 200 mile mountain road drive over rather bumpy and wet roads, and I couldnít be happier. The car never felt unsettled and was always confidence inspiring. That said, I was probably driving at around 6-7 tenths. Maybe I would feel differently if I was pushing harder.

At the moment, my car is set at 16 clicks from full stiff all the way around on the factory PS2s. My car has been lowered about 12mm from the factory ride height. I settled on 16 clicks after a lot of back-to-back testing on a particularly entertaining section of road. I could easily feel the difference between 15, 16, and 17 clicks. I have not done any testing with different settings for the front and the rear, but I am curious to test such a configuration even though I donít feel I have anything to ďfixĒ.

I always felt the factory suspension was underdamped in rebound, which would unsettle the car. In addition, I find the Ohlins to be far more comfortable over sharp impacts. Over large motions, I feel the Ohlins are stiffer than the factory suspension, but they are never jarring and body motion is always well controlled and smooth.

One thing to possibly consider would be adjusting your spring preloads. Iím far from an expert in this area, but I imagine an improper preload (high or low) would impact ride quality and consistency. I started with the recommended preload settings in Ohlinsí instructions and slightly reduced the preload for the lighter weight of the 1M versus the M3. The above said, I donít think this is a very sensitive adjustment and a difference of a few millimeters is probably not significant.

Iím also interested in learning what other 1M drivers have experienced with the Ohlins and what settings they are using.

John
Appreciate 0
      10-06-2014, 01:44 PM   #80
css008
Private First Class
United_States
16
Rep
119
Posts

Drives: bmw 1m
Join Date: May 2011
Location: California

iTrader: (0)

Hi Obiwun,

When my Ohlins were first installed the ride was way too harsh. I recently moved to 20 clicks from full stiff all the way around, and the ride is much more comfortable. (I'm on PSS). I haven't had time to tweak it to perfection, but I'm positive you can get the Ohlins to give you the ride quality you want.
Appreciate 0
      11-05-2014, 10:31 PM   #81
ayao
Thread killer
419
Rep
1,698
Posts

Drives: 1M
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CA

iTrader: (2)

Going to bump this thread.

Doing some serious consideration of getting some Ohlins R&T installed.

According to Ohlins, there's a bespoke 1M kit available now. It differs from the M3 kit in that the rear spring rate is 110 N/mm (628 lbs) instead of 120 N/mm (685 lbs). This is presumably to compensate for a lighter car.

For those of you who have installed the M3 kit, do you think that this decreased spring rate would make a substantive difference? I'm trying to get a sense of how important this would be for overall feel and driveability. (I figure the wizards at Ohlins know what's going on.) Incidentally, this would be for a combined road and 5-6 HPDEs/year scenario.
Appreciate 0
      11-06-2014, 01:16 AM   #82
obiwun
Private
obiwun's Avatar
4
Rep
61
Posts

Drives: AW(well very dirty) 1M
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Western Australia

iTrader: (0)

Hi ayao,
Thanks for bringing this up, I was not aware that there is now a dedicated 1M kit. Very interesting.
I have been looking at the specs on the ohlins website and it states that the spring rates are identical. I'm not sure where you got 110N/mm from?

Does anyone else know if there are any differences between the M3(BMS MI40) and the 1M (BMZ MN01) kits? Have they revalved the shocks for the 1M? I have asked my local distributor but haven't had a response yet.

If there is different valving for the 1M kit I might rebuild my shocks with the new valving.
Appreciate 0
      11-06-2014, 08:53 AM   #83
ayao
Thread killer
419
Rep
1,698
Posts

Drives: 1M
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CA

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by obiwun View Post
Hi ayao,
Thanks for bringing this up, I was not aware that there is now a dedicated 1M kit. Very interesting.
I have been looking at the specs on the ohlins website and it states that the spring rates are identical. I'm not sure where you got 110N/mm from?

Does anyone else know if there are any differences between the M3(BMS MI40) and the 1M (BMZ MN01) kits? Have they revalved the shocks for the 1M? I have asked my local distributor but haven't had a response yet.

If there is different valving for the 1M kit I might rebuild my shocks with the new valving.
I asked ohlins about this and they pointed out that even though the BMZ MN01 spec sheet states 120 N/mm, the install guide more accurately lists a 110 N/mm spring. He didn't say anything about valving being different and pretty much said that the spring was the only difference. FWIW...
Appreciate 0
      11-06-2014, 07:21 PM   #84
obiwun
Private
obiwun's Avatar
4
Rep
61
Posts

Drives: AW(well very dirty) 1M
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Western Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
I asked ohlins about this and they pointed out that even though the BMZ MN01 spec sheet states 120 N/mm, the install guide more accurately lists a 110 N/mm spring. He didn't say anything about valving being different and pretty much said that the spring was the only difference. FWIW...
Thanks aye, you're spot on. The install doc does list a 110N/mm spring. I am going to compare the preload settings etc to the M3 kit . install guide attached.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf MI_BMZMN01.pdf (836.1 KB, 148 views)
Appreciate 0
      11-06-2014, 08:09 PM   #85
1&done
Major
1&done's Avatar
United_States
179
Rep
1,492
Posts

Drives: 2011 VO 1M
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jupiter, FL

iTrader: (27)

Garage List
Send a message via AIM to 1&done
Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
Going to bump this thread.

Doing some serious consideration of getting some Ohlins R&T installed.

According to Ohlins, there's a bespoke 1M kit available now. It differs from the M3 kit in that the rear spring rate is 110 N/mm (628 lbs) instead of 120 N/mm (685 lbs). This is presumably to compensate for a lighter car.

For those of you who have installed the M3 kit, do you think that this decreased spring rate would make a substantive difference? I'm trying to get a sense of how important this would be for overall feel and driveability. (I figure the wizards at Ohlins know what's going on.) Incidentally, this would be for a combined road and 5-6 HPDEs/year scenario.
I just installed the 1M specific kit last week and tested them at Sebring this past weekend. I can tell you it was a noticeable difference on all levels. I ran 3 clicks in the front and 4 in the rear. Not as stiff as I read, maybe it is the lower spring rates. I did A LOT of research and very happy I went this route, the rebound control is absolutely amazing. Car does not bounce at all and is very stable.

Regarding the ride height; you have the ability to go very low, I stuck with the recommended height, however, I may raise the rear. I will post some pics for those interested.

I went through Adam at GMP Performance and paired the 1M R&T kit w/ a set of Ground Control street camber plates.
__________________
///1M #643 of #740
Appreciate 0
      11-06-2014, 11:35 PM   #86
HP Autosport
General
United_States
2274
Rep
39,929
Posts

Drives: F80 M3
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Barbara, AP, Brembo, GIAC, Koni, Ohlins, Performance Friction, www.hpautosport.com

iTrader: (34)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
Going to bump this thread.

Doing some serious consideration of getting some Ohlins R&T installed.

According to Ohlins, there's a bespoke 1M kit available now. It differs from the M3 kit in that the rear spring rate is 110 N/mm (628 lbs) instead of 120 N/mm (685 lbs). This is presumably to compensate for a lighter car.

For those of you who have installed the M3 kit, do you think that this decreased spring rate would make a substantive difference? I'm trying to get a sense of how important this would be for overall feel and driveability. (I figure the wizards at Ohlins know what's going on.) Incidentally, this would be for a combined road and 5-6 HPDEs/year scenario.
We have found the 1M likes the 12kg springs, both on and off the track, although 11kg is not really that far off. You are not really given up much with the lower spring rates and may pick up a bit more comfort for the street from the already very smooth riding coilover kit.
Appreciate 0
      11-07-2014, 12:26 AM   #87
obiwun
Private
obiwun's Avatar
4
Rep
61
Posts

Drives: AW(well very dirty) 1M
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Western Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
We have found the 1M likes the 12kg springs, both on and off the track, although 11kg is not really that far off. You are not really given up much with the lower spring rates and may pick up a bit more comfort for the street from the already very smooth riding coilover kit.
HP Autosport, can you tell us if the 1M kit has different damper tuning to the M3 kit? I would be very interested to know as I haven't heard back from my Australian ohlins agent yet.
Thanks
Toby
Appreciate 0
      11-09-2014, 03:02 PM   #88
1&done
Major
1&done's Avatar
United_States
179
Rep
1,492
Posts

Drives: 2011 VO 1M
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jupiter, FL

iTrader: (27)

Garage List
Send a message via AIM to 1&done
Quote:
Originally Posted by obiwun View Post
HP Autosport, can you tell us if the 1M kit has different damper tuning to the M3 kit? I would be very interested to know as I haven't heard back from my Australian ohlins agent yet.
Thanks
Toby
I was told the valving was slightly different by Ohlins USA, however, there is nothing in writing to prove this. I can tell you that the 1M kit comes with cable adjusters for the rear and specific directions on where to drill a hole through the liners. They are dinky and I plan to use at set of AST flexible adjusters as the quality seems to be better with those.

Side not, the instructions supplied are slightly off. You cannot use the supplied rear spacers if you use the OEM washers. I have contacted Ohlins as this sure be corrected. Plus I was missing some plastic spacers.
__________________
///1M #643 of #740
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:15 AM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST