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      12-29-2014, 02:34 PM   #111
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My local shop installed the rear coilovers without using the rubber seat that is located between the vehicle body and the rear height adjuster.

I'm wondering if it's worth bringing it back to have it installed properly. (I've already had the car back once because the Swift thrust sheets were installed backwards.) Argh.

I haven't had the chance to drive the car very much since installation, so I'm not entirely sure if there is any added noise at this point without the rubber seat in place.

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Originally Posted by 1&done View Post
I did install a pair of 65mm needle bearings on the rear, I have not touched the front just yet. I plan to install another set up front if the noise persists after I install adjustable away bar links. I have zero noise in the rear now.
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      12-30-2014, 09:32 AM   #112
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If you are not having noise I wouldn't worry about it. Adding the thrust bearings isn't too big of a job if you needed to do it later.

Turns out 90% of the noise I was having in the rear was a loose sway bar link bolt...w/ that tightened and the bearings installed it's noise free

I do get some noise upfront when turning the wheel. Could be the camber plates. Plan to get a set of adjustable sway bar links and get corner balanced. If it persists after I'll loose the plates
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      01-03-2015, 12:07 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
1&done -

My local shop installed the rear coilovers without using the rubber seat that is located between the vehicle body and the rear height adjuster.

I'm wondering if it's worth bringing it back to have it installed properly. (I've already had the car back once because the Swift thrust sheets were installed backwards.) Argh.

I haven't had the chance to drive the car very much since installation, so I'm not entirely sure if there is any added noise at this point without the rubber seat in place.
Highly unlikely you'll hear anything due to the missing rubber seat. I'm missing my driver's side and I haven't noticed any noises.
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      01-03-2015, 02:54 PM   #114
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I reached out to Ohlins and they told me that the rubber seat is intended to prevent the height adjuster from rotating against the body when changing rear spring preload, and there was the possibility of slightly increased noise. Not having the rubber seats isn't harmful in any way.

As an aside, I think I've settled on 18 clicks from closed for street, which is pretty close to what Harold from HPA suggested in a previous thread. It's a bit softer than what Ohlins recommends in the manual.

The coilovers at that street setting are somehow able to make the car less busy and frenetic without at all diluting the connection to the road or the visceral feel of the car. It's pretty much spot on.
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      02-08-2015, 01:05 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
I reached out to Ohlins and they told me that the rubber seat is intended to prevent the height adjuster from rotating against the body when changing rear spring preload, and there was the possibility of slightly increased noise. Not having the rubber seats isn't harmful in any way.

As an aside, I think I've settled on 18 clicks from closed for street, which is pretty close to what Harold from HPA suggested in a previous thread. It's a bit softer than what Ohlins recommends in the manual.

The coilovers at that street setting are somehow able to make the car less busy and frenetic without at all diluting the connection to the road or the visceral feel of the car. It's pretty much spot on.
i so can't wait to get these... i need to pay or a wedding first but at some point i will get this. i want this car tight, controllable, and not twitchy.
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      02-09-2015, 11:18 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1&done View Post
I did install a pair of 65mm needle bearings on the rear, I have not touched the front just yet. I plan to install another set up front if the noise persists after I install adjustable away bar links. I have zero noise in the rear now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
1&done -

My local shop installed the rear coilovers without using the rubber seat that is located between the vehicle body and the rear height adjuster.

I'm wondering if it's worth bringing it back to have it installed properly. (I've already had the car back once because the Swift thrust sheets were installed backwards.) Argh.

I haven't had the chance to drive the car very much since installation, so I'm not entirely sure if there is any added noise at this point without the rubber seat in place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1&done View Post
If you are not having noise I wouldn't worry about it. Adding the thrust bearings isn't too big of a job if you needed to do it later.

Turns out 90% of the noise I was having in the rear was a loose sway bar link bolt...w/ that tightened and the bearings installed it's noise free

I do get some noise upfront when turning the wheel. Could be the camber plates. Plan to get a set of adjustable sway bar links and get corner balanced. If it persists after I'll loose the plates
I'm finding this thread very informative. Can you describe the noises you are hearing in the rear?

Thanks
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      02-20-2015, 01:10 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris82 View Post
I'm finding this thread very informative. Can you describe the noises you are hearing in the rear?

Thanks
Noise is not common with the Ohlins, but it can happen. Typically is due to the metal to metal contact and spring twisting and shifting. Swift thrust sheets will help if the noise is due to spring twist and shift between the lower control arm and height adjuster.
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      02-22-2015, 12:00 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
Noise is not common with the Ohlins, but it can happen. Typically is due to the metal to metal contact and spring twisting and shifting. Swift thrust sheets will help if the noise is due to spring twist and shift between the lower control arm and height adjuster.
I'm redoing my rear springs because the shop omitted the upper rubber seat as well as reversed the thrust sheets.

I am having a hell of a time trying to get the lower control arm aligned with the spindle assembly. I'm using a jack to raise the control arm as well as a jack to raise the spindle.

I can't seem to push the wheel assembly inwards enough to align the holes despite wrestling with this for hours.

If anyone has any other tips to help that would be massively appreciated as I am currently bruised, beaten and broken ...
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      02-22-2015, 09:32 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
I'm redoing my rear springs because the shop omitted the upper rubber seat as well as reversed the thrust sheets.

I am having a hell of a time trying to get the lower control arm aligned with the spindle assembly. I'm using a jack to raise the control arm as well as a jack to raise the spindle.

I can't seem to push the wheel assembly inwards enough to align the holes despite wrestling with this for hours.

If anyone has any other tips to help that would be massively appreciated as I am currently bruised, beaten and broken ...
Try loosening the eccentric bolt on the camber link and turn to align the whole. Obviously this with change your camber so I would mark the bolt w/ a sharpie so you know where to adjust back once you get it back together. I've been there GL
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      02-22-2015, 11:01 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1&done View Post
Try loosening the eccentric bolt on the camber link and turn to align the whole. Obviously this with change your camber so I would mark the bolt w/ a sharpie so you know where to adjust back once you get it back together. I've been there GL
Well.

I -finally- got one side put back together (to my great surprise) ... Emboldened I took my newfound knowledge and confidence and started on the other side.

History repeats itself, unfortunately.

Will have to find time tomorrow to attack it again.

Freaking unbelievable, that bolt.

I can see myself throwing the alignment off to hell if I mess with the camber bolt ...
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      02-23-2015, 11:47 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
I'm redoing my rear springs because the shop omitted the upper rubber seat as well as reversed the thrust sheets.

I am having a hell of a time trying to get the lower control arm aligned with the spindle assembly. I'm using a jack to raise the control arm as well as a jack to raise the spindle.

I can't seem to push the wheel assembly inwards enough to align the holes despite wrestling with this for hours.

If anyone has any other tips to help that would be massively appreciated as I am currently bruised, beaten and broken ...


Only the lower control arm needs to be supported, that way the bearing carrier/spindle is left free to move around to align everything. Jack or raise the lower control arm to the bearing carrier/spindle. Once you get it close you can use a punch to further align everything before inserting the bolt.
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      02-23-2015, 01:54 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
Only the lower control arm needs to be supported, that way the bearing carrier/spindle is left free to move around to align everything. Jack or raise the lower control arm to the bearing carrier/spindle. Once you get it close you can use a punch to further align everything before inserting the bolt.
Ok thanks for the feedback -- the punch technique was relatively successful on the other side.
Are you using the punch as a lever inserted all the way through the assembly or are you using it to lever each side of the carrier bearing?
(Any idea what size punch you are using in the shop?)
I've been getting by with a stout screwdriver...

--
UPDATE: Ultimately I was able to get things aligned enough to shove a 3/8" extension through to the other side despite the spindle bearing not being perfectly aligned. (This was after 90 minutes of fussing with using anything I could as a lever to align the holes, including the punch technique.) By levering the extension bar in the proper direction, I could get a sense of where the spindle assembly needed to move in order to align the control arm optimally. Then I used a second jack (the portable kind included by manufacturers in cars) at an angle to move the spindle assembly in the proper direction. This got the spindle bearing aligned enough that I just used the punch to tweak from both sides, and the bolt passed through. Unorthodox, likely. Thanks again for your guidance!

It will be interesting to see if all these machinations further reduce the noise I've been hearing from the rear.

Last edited by ayao; 02-24-2015 at 12:01 AM..
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      02-24-2015, 10:30 PM   #123
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^ I too struggled with it at first, once you do it a few times it gets hella easier. Are you getting any noise upfront?
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      02-25-2015, 10:58 AM   #124
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I'd say there's a little more noise, although I'm sensitive to it. Sounds slightly different from stock with regard to small road imperfections ... Instead of a solid thunk it sounds more like two separate noises. I can't quite tell if it's on rebound or compression. I have thrust sheets installed up front. It's far from a deal breaker level of noise, though ...
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      03-12-2015, 09:05 PM   #125
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I just bought a set of the R&Ts (E9XM3 version) and i am getting them installed next thursday. id like to order the remote adjusters. anyone know where i can pick some up with the quickness?

Also, I just read through the entire thread and i still have a question. has anyone figured out the best ride height that correlates handling with looks? my concern is the front. from what i gather leaving a 1inch gap from top of fender to top of tire in the front is best for looks but handling? anyone have an opinion? the rears seem slammed anyways.

basically i am trying to get more of "stance" look but with OEM wheels. i think we need spacers too. anyone try that yet? if so, what mm? what brand?
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Last edited by blackmist222777; 03-12-2015 at 09:22 PM..
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      03-13-2015, 02:33 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackmist222777 View Post
I just bought a set of the R&Ts (E9XM3 version) and i am getting them installed next thursday. id like to order the remote adjusters. anyone know where i can pick some up with the quickness?

Also, I just read through the entire thread and i still have a question. has anyone figured out the best ride height that correlates handling with looks? my concern is the front. from what i gather leaving a 1inch gap from top of fender to top of tire in the front is best for looks but handling? anyone have an opinion? the rears seem slammed anyways.

basically i am trying to get more of "stance" look but with OEM wheels. i think we need spacers too. anyone try that yet? if so, what mm? what brand?
Don't know answers to all of the questions above but regarding extenders would ask Harold at HP Autowerks -- should be able to work with you to expedite.
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      03-13-2015, 05:52 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
Don't know answers to all of the questions above but regarding extenders would ask Harold at HP Autowerks -- should be able to work with you to expedite.
thank you. ordered
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      03-18-2015, 12:27 PM   #128
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Wondering... from anyone who has lowered their cars, does it need spacers ? i image it does since the wheels will look sunk in. if so, how wide? anyone have pics?
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      03-20-2015, 09:45 PM   #129
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OK... update. I just got my R&T Ohlins installed. they came with Vorshlag camber plates (slightly used from a fellow forum member). heres the weird thing... I started to drive home from the shop where i had the install done. as i hit the freeway i started to hear a strange frictiony sound. metallic in nature but sounded like it was coming from up top in the passenger front.

i went back to the shop for the next day to have them investigate. they hear the sound too after a short test drive. they start to look around to make sure everything was tight and nothing was left not double checked.

eventually they decided to remove the strut brace. they drove it. the noise? gone. WTF? so we started to add insolation all around the brace. test drove it. noise is back. we tried using rubber mounts all over the brace. the noise? back. remove the brace? no noise. it was agonizing.

anyone ever have this happen? any solutions? i ended up just removing and keeping the strut brace off. not super happy bout that but at least the sound is gone. thoughts?
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      03-21-2015, 05:32 PM   #130
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Doesn't sound normal, which you already know.
Writing just to express sympathy, in hopes the more experienced wrenches on the forum will help you get it sorted out. Please update when solution is found.
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      03-23-2015, 09:50 PM   #131
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I'd be almost certain it's related to the camber plates.

They're bolted to the strut towers together with the strut brace.

The plates likely are noisy as a result of a worn bearing. That or they were assembled and/or installed improperly.

The insulation idea strikes me as ridiculous.

Neil
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      03-23-2015, 10:12 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
I'd be almost certain it's related to the camber plates.

They're bolted to the strut towers together with the strut brace.

The plates likely are noisy as a result of a worn bearing. That or they were assembled and/or installed improperly.

The insulation idea strikes me as ridiculous.

Neil
yeah.. the barring dont look worn. also if they were i think they would still make noise regardless of the brace. right? wondering if my logic is right on that part. anyways, the insulation was just to isolate the noise. it didn't help at all.
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