What else to replace while doing 3SIM?

[WgSo]

Going to tackle the 3SIM swap soon. Will be ordering a bunch of parts and bolts to do this. What else should I replace for preventative measure while the manifold is out? Want to order parts together.

It would be nice if part number, diagram from realoem (or anywhere), or pictures are shared. This way I have an idea what part it is and where it's from.

A bit about my car, 2011 128i that's on 13K mile. Despite the low mileage, it is 10 years old, want to do some preventative whenever possible.

Some additional questions while I have everyone's attention:

• Will someone recommend torque wrenches, preferably from Home Depot?
• Is loctite or any type of corrosion prevention(such as lubing the threads) necessary for any bolts and nuts?

[desertman123]

realoem.com and newtis.info are your best friends. Sign up for an account on newtis and crawl around the site.... that's all I'll say.

PCV Breather hose. You'll probably break it trying to take it out. Gets quite brittle.

If you're really proactive, you could replace the intake manifold gaskets and throttle body gasket.

The main concern is your DISA valves. Have you had a chance to test them? The ugly truth no one talks about with the 3IM swap is the valves are often broken if you buy a used manifold. There aren't any aftermarket ones that are worth trying. The best thing is probably to buy Genuine BMW thru FCP Euro with their lifetime warranty (not a shill, I just enjoy their service)

They break in two main ways: physically, and electronically. There are rebuild kits if the flap shaft is broken, but chances are these valves are already broken electronically. Ask me how I know . When they break electronically, they'll still actuate, but not fully nor at full speed. You can test them with INPA (BMW Standard Tools), I believe before you even flash the tune.

The Home Depot torque wrenches are probably plenty accurate for most jobs. It's not engine internals so it doesn't need perfect precision/calibration. If it's not 100% accurate, it'll at least be consistent so things seat evenly.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...BMW-128i&mg=13

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_3756

Bimmerlabs & Bimmergeeks to help with the electronic side of things. I used a Bimmergeeks K+DCAN cable and have never had issues.

[WgSo]

Originally Posted by desertman123

realoem.com and newtis.info are your best friends. Sign up for an account on newtis and crawl around the site.... that's all I'll say.

PCV Breather hose. You'll probably break it trying to take it out. Gets quite brittle.

If you're really proactive, you could replace the intake manifold gaskets and throttle body gasket.

The main concern is your DISA valves. Have you had a chance to test them? The ugly truth no one talks about with the 3IM swap is the valves are often broken if you buy a used manifold. There aren't any aftermarket ones that are worth trying. The best thing is probably to buy Genuine BMW thru FCP Euro with their lifetime warranty (not a shill, I just enjoy their service)

They break in two main ways: physically, and electronically. There are rebuild kits if the flap shaft is broken, but chances are these valves are already broken electronically. Ask me how I know . When they break electronically, they'll still actuate, but not fully nor at full speed. You can test them with INPA (BMW Standard Tools), I believe before you even flash the tune.

The Home Depot torque wrenches are probably plenty accurate for most jobs. It's not engine internals so it doesn't need perfect precision/calibration. If it's not 100% accurate, it'll at least be consistent so things seat evenly.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...BMW-128i&mg=13

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_3756

Bimmerlabs & Bimmergeeks to help with the electronic side of things. I used a Bimmergeeks K+DCAN cable and have never had issues.

Thanks for the heads up! Definitely been looking through realoem for quite a bit. The diagram I've been looking at is the same one you linked. Good thing I could confirm that I'm looking at the correct documentation.

Unfortunately newtis.info is closed down now, it has a message directing people to use BMW's resource, which cost an and a leg....

Picked up a very good condition and decently low mile manifold from a reputable member on here, even sent me a test video of the DISA valves working. Should be good there, but I might test it on my own anyway. Luckily the seller also included the PCV Breather hose. This way, if I messed up mine, I got a back up!

How would I test it with INPA, is there any guide or tutorial on this? I'm gonna assume part of it requires me to hook up the DISA to their respectable cables?

Definitely gonna be replacing all the gaskets, it's actually in my cart now!

I'm more concerned about parts around the manifold. Are there any specific part that requires the removal of the manifold just to get access to it? Are there parts that are outright easier to remove or install with the manifold removed?

[///Makis]

Originally Posted by WgSo

Thanks for the heads up! Definitely been looking through realoem for quite a bit. The diagram I've been looking at is the same one you linked. Good thing I could confirm that I'm looking at the correct documentation.

Unfortunately newtis.info is closed down now, it has a message directing people to use BMW's resource, which cost an and a leg....

Picked up a very good condition and decently low mile manifold from a reputable member on here, even sent me a test video of the DISA valves working. Should be good there, but I might test it on my own anyway. Luckily the seller also included the PCV Breather hose. This way, if I messed up mine, I got a back up!

How would I test it with INPA, is there any guide or tutorial on this? I'm gonna assume part of it requires me to hook up the DISA to their respectable cables?

Definitely gonna be replacing all the gaskets, it's actually in my cart now!

I'm more concerned about parts around the manifold. Are there any specific part that requires the removal of the manifold just to get access to it? Are there parts that are outright easier to remove or install with the manifold removed?

Hey bud,

First off did I read that right 13k miles? How did you find a car with such low miles

Things I would change if I were you, oil filter housing gasket. Although it's not necessary to do with manifold off, there's one tricky bolt that requires a series of wobble and u joint sockets to get to unless you remove or lift off the majority of the manifold. If funds permit you can even look into getting a 135 oil filter housing with an oil cooler if you're looking to upgrade as well.

Another thing would be the starter motor. You need to remove the manifold for that (unless it can be removed from under the car, but I don't think so). Mine is currently on its way out as I've noticed longer start up times when starting cold. If you've noticed anything similar like hesitation to start you might as well replace it since the manifold is off, and unless you have a manual car you could get stuck somewhere because your starter just fails. Also get it from fcp with life time warranty.

As desertman said pcv hose, if the one that came with your manifold is even slightly brittle you may as well get a new one, it's a b*tch and a half to change if you break it when doing valve cover gasket because you will have probably have to take the IM off.

Make sure the pcv hose you have on your car is the same one for the manifold. There are two different ones depending on year of build of the car.

If you can, remove your vanity cover and check for any oil weeping or seeping near spark plug tubes or valvetronic motor, or around the valve cover. You don't need to remove the IM to do the vcg but you need to remove a lot of the same stuff so if you have all that removed as well and you do have some oil weeping, you might as well do it. Just be forewarned it is very frustrating and tedious unless you have incredibly small and flexible hands. If I could go back in time I would have probably paid bmw to do it.

If you're going to do it you might consider buying the a new valve cover as well from fcp but that's probably quite expensive so not necessary unless you do have a leak.

The only other thing I can think of would be changing the cabin air filter if you haven't as you need to remove the cowl or shelf in any case.

I think there's a few write ups of this mod but take pics and post them if you can


M

[WgSo]

Since I'm already taking stuff apart, and I already bought MILVS, gonna do that as well along with the VCG. Meaning, I'll have to remove both strut braces. Will someone tell me what the torque spec is for that?

Gonna be tackling all this tomorrow, wish me luck!

///Makis Thanks for all the heads up! Mind elaborating on the 135i oil filter housing, that's not something I've heard of. What's the difference between that and the 128i's version?

[///Makis]

Originally Posted by WgSo

Since I'm already taking stuff apart, and I already bought MILVS, gonna do that as well along with the VCG. Meaning, I'll have to remove both strut braces. Will someone tell me what the torque spec is for that?

Gonna be tackling all this tomorrow, wish me luck!

///Makis Thanks for all the heads up! Mind elaborating on the 135i oil filter housing, that's not something I've heard of. What's the difference between that and the 128i's version?

Yeah the oil filter housing on the 135 and 335 and others has extra lines so you can run an oil cooler.

I believe this is the one. If you can find one from a junkyard for cheap you can get a generic oil cooler kit off eBay. It's probably not necessary unless you're tracking your car but it's a cool mod if you have the funds and since the IM will be off and you might need to change the ofhg you might as well upgrade while you're in there.

The only difference between that one and the 128 is the 128 does not have that extra bit of metal for the lines. If you go this route and you buy a used 135/335 one you need to buy two gaskets, one for the ofh and the other for the metal block that connects sits on top of it.

One of the pics has the second gasket but not the metal block in the others.

I'm sure there's a write up on here for it.

[oldman_stew]

Looks like you are in the same boat I was:

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1832021

On the advice of others I went mostly OEM with the parts I was using and I'm happy I didn't chance it. Do it once and not worry about it for a long while was my motivation.

In addition to the VCG, OFHG, and PCV-you might want to consider the eccentric shaft sensor gasket as well. I replaced my sensor at the same time but I'm not as low KMs as you are. Also, replacing the coolant hose flange with the aluminum version might be worth while preventative maitenance too.

[WgSo]

Originally Posted by oldman_stew

Looks like you are in the same boat I was:

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1832021

On the advice of others I went mostly OEM with the parts I was using and I'm happy I didn't chance it. Do it once and not worry about it for a long while was my motivation.

In addition to the VCG, OFHG, and PCV-you might want to consider the eccentric shaft sensor gasket as well. I replaced my sensor at the same time but I'm not as low KMs as you are. Also, replacing the coolant hose flange with the aluminum version might be worth while preventative maitenance too.

Yep, went with all OEM parts. Some dollar saved for the future headaches are not worth it. Been wanting to replace my coolant hose too. Mind linking me to the aluminum version?

[Almuliman]

Originally Posted by WgSo

Yep, went with all OEM parts. Some dollar saved for the future headaches are not worth it. Been wanting to replace my coolant hose too. Mind linking me to the aluminum version?

I just bought this one: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...o-technologies.

Came in today, going on the car this weekend. Purely preventative. I think I ordered it about 10 min after watching this video:

.

[WgSo]

Unfortunate news. When I was trying to pull the valve cover off, I dropped one of the two screws that sits below the valvetronic motor. Will someone tell me the part number for that? RealOEM's diagram doesn't show the valvetronic motor's side and there's more than 1 type of screw/bolt...

Originally Posted by Almuliman

I just bought this one: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...o-technologies.

Came in today, going on the car this weekend. Purely preventative. I think I ordered it about 10 min after watching this video:

.

Cool, thanks a lot!

[///Makis]

Originally Posted by WgSo

Unfortunate news. When I was trying to pull the valve cover off, I dropped one of the two screws that sits below the valvetronic motor. Will someone tell me the part number for that? RealOEM's diagram doesn't show the valvetronic motor's side and there's more than 1 type of screw/bolt...

Cool, thanks a lot!

Hey bud,

You mean one of the two screws that's holds the gasket for valvetronic motor or holds the valvetronic motor on the valve cover?

I only recall one screw being directly below the motor and holding it onto the cover horizontally (I think)

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_3736

Any case I think you're referring to number 15 or 8 in the above no?

I hope that helps.

Did the bolt fall onto the engine floor panel? Or fell and lost forever somewhere.

I dropped a wrench and screw that holds the air filter box onto the floor panel the other day doing the starter motor and 3sim and had to take the panel off after all that. PITA but cest la vie

[Papa Popov]

I'm getting ready to do this job + the VCG at the same time. Figured I'd go balls deep and knock out everything in a weekend.

My current shopping list is:

-Manifold+ TB gaskets
-PCV hose
-DISAs
-Starter motor (I'm at 116k, might as well)
-OFHG
-VCG Gasket
-Eccentric shaft sensor
-ESS gaskets

Hoping this will knock out a lot of problem items all at once.

[///Makis]

Originally Posted by Papa Popov

I'm getting ready to do this job + the VCG at the same time. Figured I'd go balls deep and knock out everything in a weekend.

My current shopping list is:

-Manifold+ TB gaskets
-PCV hose
-DISAs
-Starter motor (I'm at 116k, might as well)
-OFHG
-VCG Gasket
-Eccentric shaft sensor
-ESS gaskets

Hoping this will knock out a lot of problem items all at once.

Or just compound them

Just make sure you have plenty of space to lay everything out and a clean work area. And some ziplock baggies to bundle and label miscellaneous bolts and whatever you take off the car. It could help when putting it back together.

I suggest getting a helper, I believe dackelone suggested using rtv around the corners for the vcg I'd also add putting it on the back of the vc to make sure the gasket doesn't slip out. And I mean a small amount, not make a new gasket amount, just enough to keep the gasket in the valve cover.

I'd suggest also putting in a bit in the sparkplug tube gaskets. One of mine has fallen or is not in place correctly, and some oil is now getting into the tube and I am furious to say the least. I also suggest putting in the spark plug tubes after the vc is installed, it gives you a little bit more room to maneuver the cover.

When you think you have all the connections and vacuum lines off the IM check again because I was genuinely surprised at how much sh*t was connected to it. Make sure you connect the oil heater electrical connector and disa valves correctly prior to fully installing the manifold. And the vacuum line at the bottom of the IM. I missed that one when re installing and eventually figured it out.

As much as I think you should do everything in one go, it makes diagnosing a problem when you're done if something isn't done correctly or something unrelated fails a lot more complicated after.

[Papa Popov]

Originally Posted by ///Makis

Or just compound them

Just make sure you have plenty of space to lay everything out and a clean work area. And some ziplock baggies to bundle and label miscellaneous bolts and whatever you take off the car. It could help when putting it back together.

I suggest getting a helper, I believe dackelone suggested using rtv around the corners for the vcg I'd also add putting it on the back of the vc to make sure the gasket doesn't slip out. And I mean a small amount, not make a new gasket amount, just enough to keep the gasket in the valve cover.

I'd suggest also putting in a bit in the sparkplug tube gaskets. One of mine has fallen or is not in place correctly, and some oil is now getting into the tube and I am furious to say the least. I also suggest putting in the spark plug tubes after the vc is installed, it gives you a little bit more room to maneuver the cover.

When you think you have all the connections and vacuum lines off the IM check again because I was genuinely surprised at how much sh*t was connected to it. Make sure you connect the oil heater electrical connector and disa valves correctly prior to fully installing the manifold. And the vacuum line at the bottom of the IM. I missed that one when re installing and eventually figured it out.

As much as I think you should do everything in one go, it makes diagnosing a problem when you're done if something isn't done correctly or something unrelated fails a lot more complicated after.

Yup, I'm a masochist, gonna do both in one go. Fortunately I have a mechanic buddy that'll be helping me with it, and plenty of booze for moral support.

Not looking forward to the job at all, but excited to knock it out. If I can get it all done I'll be "done" with both mods and maintenance except for the water pump.

[markslc1]

I'm curious if there are any coolant hoses under there that you could swap out while you have access. Mine are 13 years old now and have 150k on em.

[Papa Popov]

Originally Posted by ///Makis

Hey bud,

First off did I read that right 13k miles? How did you find a car with such low miles

Things I would change if I were you, oil filter housing gasket. Although it's not necessary to do with manifold off, there's one tricky bolt that requires a series of wobble and u joint sockets to get to unless you remove or lift off the majority of the manifold. If funds permit you can even look into getting a 135 oil filter housing with an oil cooler if you're looking to upgrade as well.

Another thing would be the starter motor. You need to remove the manifold for that (unless it can be removed from under the car, but I don't think so). Mine is currently on its way out as I've noticed longer start up times when starting cold. If you've noticed anything similar like hesitation to start you might as well replace it since the manifold is off, and unless you have a manual car you could get stuck somewhere because your starter just fails. Also get it from fcp with life time warranty.

As desertman said pcv hose, if the one that came with your manifold is even slightly brittle you may as well get a new one, it's a b*tch and a half to change if you break it when doing valve cover gasket because you will have probably have to take the IM off.

Make sure the pcv hose you have on your car is the same one for the manifold. There are two different ones depending on year of build of the car.

If you can, remove your vanity cover and check for any oil weeping or seeping near spark plug tubes or valvetronic motor, or around the valve cover. You don't need to remove the IM to do the vcg but you need to remove a lot of the same stuff so if you have all that removed as well and you do have some oil weeping, you might as well do it. Just be forewarned it is very frustrating and tedious unless you have incredibly small and flexible hands. If I could go back in time I would have probably paid bmw to do it.

If you're going to do it you might consider buying the a new valve cover as well from fcp but that's probably quite expensive so not necessary unless you do have a leak.

The only other thing I can think of would be changing the cabin air filter if you haven't as you need to remove the cowl or shelf in any case.

I think there's a few write ups of this mod but take pics and post them if you can


M

If I'm interpreting this correctly there are two different PCV hoses, and which one you need depends on what model the used 3SIM came off of? I don't have a clue what car my manifold came off of...

Trying to round up the last of of my parts and I wanna be damn sure I get the right hose.

[Thunderguts]

I'll be performing the 3IM upgrade soon also and I plan to do the starter along with the crankshaft position sensor just because you need to remove the IM to do both.

I've only got 85k miles, but I plan to keep the car as long as possible so I might as well do it now.

[Thunderguts]

Originally Posted by markslc1

I'm curious if there are any coolant hoses under there that you could swap out while you have access. Mine are 13 years old now and have 150k on em.

Many tasks would be easier with the IM out of the car, but coolant hoses aren't really one of them. The only two connections that might be easier are the heater core intake and return connections and they aren't that bad with the IM in place. I replaced every coolant line in my car and I didn't need to remove anything but the intake/filter.