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      11-20-2021, 11:36 PM   #1
Genes1s
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DIY R&R Rear Wheel Bearings and Hubs

This started when I cross threaded the rear lug hub removing the studs. I put a little bit too much Red Loctite and didn't apply heat enough when removing it that I gummed up the threads. So, I was able to chase the threads to clean it up but just didn't feel good about it. So the adventure began. New Hubs, new Bearings, new hardware too per TIS.
Here are the parts
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This is how I did it, others might have done differently or with easier steps.

1. Loosen the Axle nut with the car on the floor and with parking brake applied. DO NOT remove it, just broke it loose. You will need to "unbent" the anti rotation lip of the giant axle nut. Make sure you unbent them our clear the treads. You don't want it to interfere and dragging the threads risking cross threading.
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2. Remove the wheels.
3. I would then proceed with removing the drive axle from the diff. I was able to wiggle it out without removing any other suspension components. I did all 6 with rotating it to about 11 o'clock to gain access while locking the parking brake each time. Would be nice to have someone to press the brake pedal.
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4. Remove the axle spline from the hub by pressing it out using bearing removal tool. U can rent this type of tool from Advance Auto or Autozone.
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5. Remove the Brake Caliper. Secure it properly.
6. Remove the hub. I borrowed this tool from Advance Auto, the same tool I used to press the axle out. Took about a good 10 whacks to get the hub out. You can see half of the bearing came with it. If you need to re-use the hub, you would need to separate the bearing from the hub. I've done this before on other car by very carefully cutting the bearing across the axis.
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7. Remove the giant Retaining Clip holding. You'll need a robust snap/retaining ring plier to do this.
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1997 Artic Silver E36 M3/4/5
2000 Sunlit Sand Nissan Maxima 5 SP
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      11-21-2021, 12:00 AM   #2
Genes1s
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8. Press the bearing out using this bearing removal tool.
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9.After cleaning, its time to press new bearing in. I put a light coat of grease. Remember that the bearing is facing correctly. The back of the bearing, with metal black cover, should face the speed sensor. This is what they look like
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The Orange cover should face outward.
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10. Once you have the bearing all the way in, install the new Snap Ring.
11. Install the new hub using the same bearing removal tool. I made this adaptor in to fit exactly the inner section of the wheel bearing. you want to brace the inner section of the bearing when pressing the hub in (to support it properly).
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12. Re-insert the Drive Axle spline using this tool.
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13. Re-install drive axle to the diff. I put new hardwares and reversed the washer plate to get new surface.
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__________________
1997 Artic Silver E36 M3/4/5
2000 Sunlit Sand Nissan Maxima 5 SP
2011 Space Gray E82 N55 DCT.

Last edited by Genes1s; 11-21-2021 at 12:24 AM..
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      11-21-2021, 12:19 AM   #3
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13. Re-install Brake Caliper with new hardware.
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14. Re-install the axle nut.
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This big boy will get the torque spec done.
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15. Do not forget to stake the nut lip in place to prevent it from rotating.
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1997 Artic Silver E36 M3/4/5
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2011 Space Gray E82 N55 DCT.

Last edited by Genes1s; 11-21-2021 at 12:30 AM..
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      11-22-2021, 01:47 AM   #4
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14. Re-install the axle nut.
Attachment 2747752

Can anyone confirm this torque spec for me? Why does the M cars with S65 has lower torque spec with the same nut size as the non S65 cars?

Thanks
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