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[larryn]

Originally Posted by jzhang

you guys can get 235 in front easy. with roll or very minimal dialing.

My feeling is, if you're going to roll the fenders, might as well just add some camber instead, and put 245's or larger up there. No modifications to the bodywork.

[Eddy@ApexWheels]

Originally Posted by jzhang

you guys can get 235 in front easy. with roll or very minimal dialing.

Not true. 235 is soooo close to the fender on the OEM 7.5" wheel with a 49mm offset already. This wheel is significantly more aggressive (must be for strut tube clearance reasons when running meaty rubber). We're talking around an 1" further out AND wider rubber. It's been tested multiple times with these very wheels already. One of the test cars had the m3 arms (costly way of adding camber) and the pins pulled and it hardly added anything. 235's still stuck out from the fender. With plates it will be a no brainer installation. I have to keep repeating myself because people who haven't done real testing, doubt the data for some reason. The 1 series is a shit car when it comes to front fitment, Nothing will ever help that except adding camber. If I had made the wheels with a higher offset, then everyone would need spacers because the tires wouldn't have cleared the strut tube. This is a "go big, or go home" setup. And that's assuming the installation of camber plates is a big deal to someone, when it's easily in my top 3 mods for this chassis. Nobody should be running around with 275 or 285 rears and then only a 225 or even just a 235 front. It would be the opposite of a handling upgrade because you'd be driving on the outer edge of that little narrow tire due to the positive camber in turns, all while the rears are getting full grip.

Originally Posted by larryn

My feeling is, if you're going to roll the fenders, might as well just add some camber instead, and put 245's or larger up there. No modifications to the bodywork.

+1333298732987324987

The money that people put into all these other little tweaks will never compare to the down right simple installation of a quality camber plate that improves handling significantly, drastically increases front tire fitment options, and evens out tire wear for cars that are actually driven hard.

[1013mm]

235 on a 8.5 width up front will sit flush but will rub depending on the drop AND tire brand. without a drop i doubt it will rub unless you hit it hard. I am running this setup up front right now and its total flush with the fenders.

[larryn]

Originally Posted by jzhang

235 on a 8.5 width up front will sit flush but will rub depending on the drop AND tire brand. without a drop i doubt it will rub unless you hit it hard. I am running this setup up front right now and its total flush with the fenders.

TOTALLY depends on the amount of camber, and the offset. With these wheels, you may need to dial in camber for some 235's.

John, you are running ET38 8.5" wide wheels? I'm not sure you are taking offset into account.

[1013mm]

Originally Posted by larryn

TOTALLY depends on the amount of camber, and the offset. With these wheels, you may need to dial in camber for some 235's.

John, you are running ET38 8.5" wide wheels? I'm not sure you are taking offset into account.

that is very true i run ET45 and 8.5. so yea........ =\ any ET lower and you would probably have to cut the fender if you dont want to do negative chamber and stuff...

[Eddy@ApexWheels]

Originally Posted by jzhang

235 on a 8.5 width up front will sit flush but will rub depending on the drop AND tire brand. without a drop i doubt it will rub unless you hit it hard. I am running this setup up front right now and its total flush with the fenders.

That's just the thing. it WILL rub when you hit a hard bump, and to my standards that is unacceptable. If it rubs, then it is a failure as a fitment (something's been compromised). Tire sizes are just a number. They aren't directly transferable from one tire brand to another, and so there is nothing at all optimal about picking a tire like a toyo tr1 just because it runs narrow, allowing you to install a 235 without issue. That 235 will be the same width as extreme summer performance tires in a 225 size. AND it will be lot slower, which is what this is really all about. You accomplish nothing by shoving a shit tire onto these wheels. They weren't designed for that. They were designed to be part of a system of proper wheel/tire/suspension setup which results in huge improvements when done in proper combination.

Here's a photo of this wheel (18x8.5" et38) and a real tire (NT-05) that could be used at an autocross or the track (and this runs narrower then a star spec). this car has as much camber as you can get into a car without plates.

[Eddy@ApexWheels]

Originally Posted by jzhang

that is very true i run ET45 and 8.5. so yea........ =\ any ET lower and you would probably have to cut the fender if you dont want to do negative chamber and stuff...

Exactly my point from earlier. Yes that just barely fits a 235, but you will never get a 245 or 255 onto the wheel with those offsets. you end of having to space it out to..... et38

[M3_Dust]

car looks truly awesome

[larryn]

Originally Posted by M3_Dust

car looks truly awesome

Thank you!

They really look better than I thought they would.

[brracing]

Just some more info, and will post pics after car gets cleaned this weekend.
Have tried numerous sets of wheels (Stock, OZ Alleggrita's, Advans), and now APEX ARC-8s.
These are amazing wheels, and look great.
We have the 18x8.5" on the front, and 18x9.5" on the rear. The set we have on the car right now will be our street fitment, and we have another set that will be our track setup.
But, wanted to run a conservative setup at first.
On the front we have 245/35/18, and we have Vorshlag camber plates (the best), and also the M3 lower control arms. After installing the wheels, we put the car on our alignment rack to play w suspension settings to see what we needed to get the proper clearance. NO question at full negative camber, you have tons of clearance on the front w the outer fender lip. We went as low as -1.6 degrees of camber, and would rub on bumps. At -1.7 degrees, we would rub at full lock and on bumps. At -1.8 degrees, we had clearance with no problems, and have been driving this way since, and have not had any issues.
On the rear, we used to have to run insane amounts of negative camber to get the fender clearance, but w the new wheels, we have HUGE amounts of clearance. We have 255/35/18 right now, but have HUGE amounts of clearance at the outer fender lip, and this is with only - 1.5 degrees of camber on the rear (we used to run - 3+ on the rear to fit).
We then put the car on the alignment rack, and examined the clearance, and we have clearance on the inside fender well, shock, and all other elements, and could run 10mm spacers on the rear w the 255 tires without a problem.
We didn't want to run really large rear tires, as we are still working to get the perfect balance for track use (but, at the same time, we can still break the tires loose in 2nd and 3rd gear under hard street acceleration).
LOVE the wheels.
We have another customer who just bought a set from us in Satin Black....let us know if you need a set, as you can get them from us (BRracing)

[acivick]

So what do you guys suggest? I was thinking 235/35/18 for the front and 265/35/18 for the rear to keep the same basic difference as the OE setup. With my plates, I have about 1.5* or so camber to work with in the front.

Edit: Correction 235/40/18 up front. They don't make 35% sidewalls for that size apparently

[1013mm]

that 235/40 might give you trouble cause its so high.

[acivick]

Originally Posted by jzhang

that 235/40 might give you trouble cause its so high.

That's what I was thinking, it's 8 mm higher than OE. Might have to figure how to squeeze a 245/35 or just get an adjustable camber plate already and go balls out.

[mkppk]

So, to summarize so far..

- get the 18x18.5 up front
- run 245 up front
- camber plates up front are a MUST, -1.8 degrees should do it

Further questions:
- are camber plates in the rear required?
- what are some options for street tires that fit well?
- whats the maximum front/rear lowering recommended?

[acivick]

I just ordered PS2s with 245/35 in the front and 265/35 in the rear. The boys at the shop say they can probably squeeze -1.6 to -1.7 degrees in the front out of my current setup, but I'm going to come prepared with some Vorshlag plates just in case. Probably will just put them on anyway, but they offered to only charge me for one alignment even if I have to put the V plates on, so I figured why not see what works in case other people want to know. Scheduled to do it on 3/12, hopefully it'll be a little warmer out and I won't mind rolling out in summer tires. But I'll update everyone once it's done.

It sounds like you don't need anything on the rear to make them work out based on the OP's comments. The rears sound like they have more adjustability as far as camber is concerned, but I'll let those in the know chime in.

Originally Posted by mkppk

So, to summarize so far..

- get the 18x18.5 up front
- run 245 up front
- camber plates up front are a MUST, -1.8 degrees should do it

Further questions:
- are camber plates in the rear required?
- what are some options for street tires that fit well?
- whats the maximum front/rear lowering recommended?

[larryn]

Originally Posted by acivick

It sounds like you don't need anything on the rear to make them work out based on the OP's comments. The rears sound like they have more adjustability as far as camber is concerned, but I'll let those in the know chime in.

I can definitively say that your 265s will fit with no additional camber or rolling, direct bolt on with these 9.5 wheels. Same goes for 275s, and most 285s.

[brracing]

Agree...nothing needed on the rear...plenty of room, on both sides.

[Eyeman]

These Apex/Paintpro wheels are definitely the best rear option for those of us looking for a rear performance setup that allows maximum rubber. I've been considering buying a set of rears just for track/strip use even though I may never take my car to the track/strip.

However, I get PaintPro's point on tire size, but I must say that PaintPro sounds like he is just tire bashing when he calls some tires "shit" tires and other tires "real". IMO these tires such at Toyos and Falken 452's that allow larger "sizing" are not "shit" tires. If I were in the wheel business it would piss me off also because these tires just are not measured appropriately vs normal standards. People say they have "round sidewalls, etc" but they don't look that round too me, they just seem to be improperly measured. However, calling them "shit" tires is oversimplifying/bashing.

[brracing]

Here are some current pics of the car (BRracing 135i) w the new APEX 18" ARC-8 wheels. The current street setup w these wheels is very conservative. Front is 245/35/18, rear is 255/35/18. Huge amounts of room at the rear, front can be done without rubbing w as little as -1.8 camber. If you add more camber (track setup), then you can run the 255 without rubbing.
Wheels look great, fit great, are nice and light.....and a great price. The perfect combination.
Car feels great driving on the street as well....and running that little amount of camber in the rear has been a nice treat.
BRracing

[Feyd]

Looking good.

Are those gunmetal?

[Justin(OKC)]

Originally Posted by brracing

Here are some current pics of the car (BRracing 135i) w the new APEX 18" ARC-8 wheels. The current street setup w these wheels is very conservative. Front is 245/35/18, rear is 255/35/18. Huge amounts of room at the rear, front can be done without rubbing w as little as -1.8 camber. If you add more camber (track setup), then you can run the 255 without rubbing.
Wheels look great, fit great, are nice and light.....and a great price. The perfect combination.
Car feels great driving on the street as well....and running that little amount of camber in the rear has been a nice treat.
BRracing

Wheels look great!! I do like your old graphics better, though

[Feyd]

OT:

Rusty rotors are FTL though.... I hate how BMW Rotors do that.

Mine even rusted when I lived in Cali... no rain/snow, etc. I dare to say it wasn't even humid out.

Saw a new 135 at the auto show here in Chicago yesterday and the rotors were gleaming silver... just made the car look so much better. *sigh*