Stage 2/LSD N55 vs Stage 2 2016 S3

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by Gangplank

I think the large capacity oil cooler may not be needed as long as you have the stock 135i oil cooler. Recommended but not required. YMMV of course since I'm just going by what's on the forum.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...9&postcount=71

[MN.BIMMER]

Originally Posted by Viking445

Ya i'm 6'3" ish as well. Does the 135 do well with road trips?

I'm 6'4" and on the slimmer/medium build side, and I feel more comfortable in this car than in my older Audi S4. It also passes the girlfriend test, she said she'd be comfortable going on a road trip in it 👍🏾👍🏾

[smrtypants44]

Originally Posted by MN.BIMMER

I'm 6'4" and on the slimmer/medium build side, and I feel more comfortable in this car than in my older Audi S4. It also passes the girlfriend test, she said she'd be comfortable going on a road trip in it 👍🏾👍🏾

Yeah the only downside for road trips is the lack of cupholders, plus the console mounted cupholder encroaches on the passenger knee room pretty bad.

[mfindigital]

This is a euro M135i, but it's still probably going to be a similar result. The BMW is a better performance car, 50/50 weight, rwd, bigger engine.

I have an e92 M3 seat in mine, so maybe that's not helpful, but it's fairly similar to the e82 sport seat. Maybe it's just me, but I find the 135i pretty uncomfortable on long drives (just did LA to Vegas). I wouldn't call it a great gt car by any stretch, but it's decent at it.

Never driven the s3, so can't comment on that. I'd assume the Audi aftermarket is way bigger since it's a vw motor, and there are millions of tuned 2.0's on the road (suspension too).

[B777flyboy]

No manual with Audi blows deal for me!

[Viking445]

Originally Posted by B777flyboy

No manual with Audi blows deal for me!

you can get a manual on the 2017 Golf R which is the same engine and driveline from the S3. Plus the Golf is about 150lbs lighter

[B777flyboy]

Originally Posted by Viking445

you can get a manual on the 2017 Golf R which is the same engine and driveline from the S3. Plus the Golf is about 150lbs lighter

Sweet.

[duder13]

Originally Posted by Viking445

Suspension wise my goals are for a slightly lower stance and Sporty ride capable of mountain roads but with no intent of track days.

If the oem shocks are a weak point then a cup kit will probly do the trick. I'm assuming for my purpose that stiffer anti-role bars aren't needed?

What about engine and driveline bushings? Worth upgrading?

Honestly, I would spend money on shocks/springs, rear subframe bushings, non-runflat tires and maybe M3 front control arms with a front M3 sway before any tune or LSD. The car is already fast, but you need to remove the sponginess.

BTW, if you can find a 2011 or early 2012 N55 car, you won't need to bench flash to install MHD.

p.s. if you do a tune, get an aftermarket charge pipe. the charge pipe blowing its not a matter of if, but when.

[The Wind Breezes]

Originally Posted by duder13

I would spend money on shocks/springs, rear subframe bushings, non-runflat tires and maybe M3 front control arms with a front M3 sway before any tune or LSD.

There's no before. If you want to drive hard you should add a real diff before anything, followed by the bushings. If you can't afford it but want to drive hard you REALLY, really bought the wrong car. Shocks and tires don't really matter on the street if you just want to have fun. I hooned my stock runflats until the rears threw sparks.

The car is unpleasant and sucks with an open diff--there's really very little point to the car even being RWD. Having a proper locking rear diff makes a HUGE change to the car's handling. Yes, real LSDs are expensive, but you can also weld the diff. I did that and my car is a pleasure to drive rain or shine...100% consistent.

Finally, you can drive hard as shit with the stock suspension and even bushings. The car will be vague, and move around, but it is very doable. You cannot drive hard as shit for very long with the stock e-diff or it will reduce engine power cuz it thinks your rear brakes are getting too hot. And even when it's fresh the action is inconsistent and not comparable to a real clutch plate type LSD.

As far as upgrading dampers and springs that's really not necessary for a street / hobby track car until you have "broken" things fixed like the car's wonky stock bushings and the lack of LSD. And the terrible stock camber limits.

Also there are a slew of things you or someone else needs to code out of the car if you want to drive hard.

[duder13]

Originally Posted by The Wind Breezes

There's no before. If you want to drive hard you should add a real diff before anything, followed by the bushings. If you can't afford it but want to drive hard you REALLY, really bought the wrong car. Shocks and tires don't really matter on the street if you just want to have fun. I hooned my stock runflats until the rears threw sparks.

The car is unpleasant and sucks with an open diff--there's really very little point to the car even being RWD. Having a proper locking rear diff makes a HUGE change to the car's handling. Yes, real LSDs are expensive, but you can also weld the diff. I did that and my car is a pleasure to drive rain or shine...100% consistent.

Finally, you can drive hard as shit with the stock suspension and even bushings. The car will be vague, and move around, but it is very doable. You cannot drive hard as shit for very long with the stock e-diff or it will reduce engine power cuz it thinks your rear brakes are getting too hot. And even when it's fresh the action is inconsistent and not comparable to a real clutch plate type LSD.

As far as upgrading dampers and springs that's really not necessary for a street / hobby track car until you have "broken" things fixed like the car's wonky stock bushings and the lack of LSD. And the terrible stock camber limits.

Also there are a slew of things you or someone else needs to code out of the car if you want to drive hard.

He’s not talking about taking the car to the track. He’s talking about cruising around public mountain roads.

My Porsche 996 had an e-diff, my Porsche 987 had an e-diff, even all McLarens have e-diffs, and it’s fine for casual mountain road driving. What isn’t great is the floaty feel of the 135i’s stock suspension.

[mfindigital]

Originally Posted by duder13

He’s not talking about taking the car to the track. He’s talking about cruising around public mountain roads.

My Porsche 996 had an e-diff, my Porsche 987 had an e-diff, even all McLarens have e-diffs, and it’s fine for casual mountain road driving. What isn’t great is the floaty feel of the 135i’s stock suspension.

Springs and shocks are definitely a massive upgrade even on the stock e-diff, as are tires.

[Gangplank]

Originally Posted by mfindigital

Springs and shocks are definitely a massive upgrade even on the stock e-diff, as are tires.

This ^^

After I put quality Ohlins on with stiffer springs I was surprised at how much less often the e-diff activated the DTC. It keeps the wheels in better contact with the road.

[duder13]

Originally Posted by Gangplank

This ^^

After I put quality Ohlins on with stiffer springs I was surprised at how much less often the e-diff activated the DTC. It keeps the wheels in better contact with the road.

Yeah, even my relatively pedestrian Bilstein B12 Kit and two-piece Whiteline subframe bushings (along with some M3 parts) did the same. Traction control blinkies rarely come on any more.

[mfindigital]

Originally Posted by duder13

Yeah, even my relatively pedestrian Bilstein B12 Kit and two-piece Whiteline subframe bushings (along with some M3 parts) did the same. Traction control blinkies rarely come on any more.

I've never heard anyone say shocks/springs/tires aren't useful upgrades before, that was pretty strange. Essentially ever Mod test shows tires are the biggest improvement for track times, suspension close behind.

Car Throttle is a great youtube channel for builds. For every build, they set a stock lap time, then add 1 part per week (power, tires, suspension, weight reduction) and compare the lap time differences. Tires lower the lap time by the largest margin, every time.