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      04-20-2010, 12:43 PM   #45
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Quote:
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that explains A LOT!
Fixed it for you.
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      04-21-2010, 09:56 AM   #46
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Any idea whether removing the pin, running the M3 control arms (front bushings, etc) + Dinan camber plates would yield enough camber to run 245/35s up front?

I'm running out of patience with the vorshlag rattle issue.

I'm going to whack the perches with a mallet today, if it's still an issue, rather than pay to have someone proefessionally reinstall these plates, i'm going to get the Dinan plates instead and if i have to, the M3 front suspension parts. I think those things together should get me 2+ degrees, which is enough for 245/35s, but maybe not enough for 255/35 direzzas.

thoughts?
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      04-21-2010, 01:15 PM   #47
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Tough call. M3 parts also widen the track of the car while adding camber, I dont know if it will work in your favor. your only at 1 degree camber right now. you should be able to get that much with dinan plates plus alignment pin removal. If not, I see some strut tower slotting in your future. I am guessing youll get 1.2-1.5 with dinan and alignment removal. I think alignment pin removal will get you .8 and then .7 with dinan plates.
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      04-21-2010, 01:15 PM   #48
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Don't forget to borrow Andy's mullet.

Seriously, I previously fit 245's up front by removing the alignment pins and further slotting the strut tower slots, and still needed an aggressive roll to fit 245's up front.. even with the M3 parts.

Alignment pin + slotting + M3 parts = -1.6deg camber (lowered), and less if you are not lowered.
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      04-21-2010, 01:28 PM   #49
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I do have a nice mullet wig and white trash teeth you can borrow while attempting all of this? flannel t-shirt with sleeves cut off?
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      04-22-2010, 08:05 AM   #50
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Quote:
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I do have a nice mullet wig and white trash teeth you can borrow while attempting all of this? flannel t-shirt with sleeves cut off?
Are you SURE you weren't at NE Dragway last night? I'm sure i saw the person described here last night, several of him in fact...
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      04-22-2010, 08:44 AM   #51
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UPDATE:

Ok, yesterday i took this thing apart again (like the 8th time) and whacked it with a rubber mallet until it was FLUSH against the perch.

The noises are worse than ever. Ridiculous.

BEFORE MALLTING:



AFTER:



Lower perch:



Camber settings & position within the strut tower:
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      04-22-2010, 09:10 AM   #52
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Jesu christo. I am at a loss.
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      04-22-2010, 10:05 AM   #53
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tell me about it. i'm going to take it apart again, maybe i put the bolt bracket on wrong or something.
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      04-22-2010, 10:07 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryn View Post
Don't forget to borrow Andy's mullet.

Seriously, I previously fit 245's up front by removing the alignment pins and further slotting the strut tower slots, and still needed an aggressive roll to fit 245's up front.. even with the M3 parts.

Alignment pin + slotting + M3 parts = -1.6deg camber (lowered), and less if you are not lowered.
Man, i just don't understand how the alignment shop said i'm running only 1.1 degrees of camber. From what you are saying, i should be in rub city, but i don't. Are these Hankook V12s that narrow?

mulling over the next step...
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      04-22-2010, 10:14 AM   #55
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Are you on the most upright caster setting? Where you show the screws, that doesn't look like you are. (but I may be wrong in my orientation awareness)
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      04-22-2010, 10:15 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135gofast View Post
Man, i just don't understand how the alignment shop said i'm running only 1.1 degrees of camber. From what you are saying, i should be in rub city, but i don't. Are these Hankook V12s that narrow?

mulling over the next step...
Dunno. I did have to roll, then roll a little more to fit my star specs.
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      04-22-2010, 10:34 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryn View Post
Are you on the most upright caster setting? Where you show the screws, that doesn't look like you are. (but I may be wrong in my orientation awareness)
i didn't change the caster setting as it came from vorshlag, at least on purpose. Both of them are set the same, which admittedly is different from the Vorshlag installation pdf.

Passenger side (shake rattle and roll):





Driver side (noise free):
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      04-22-2010, 10:48 AM   #58
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btw larry and andy, thanks for your help and input
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      04-22-2010, 01:03 PM   #59
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That's the exact same caster settings that Andy and I are using, though I can't set my plates to minimum camber, unless I want my fender to be sitting on top of my tires.
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      04-22-2010, 01:33 PM   #60
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"You know, food has lost it's taste. Colors, you know, they seem dull. Things that used to matter, I don't know, they just no longer do. I think things aren't gonna snap back unless I..." fix these f'ing camber plates!!!!

- Vance Munson, Hitch 2005
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      04-22-2010, 01:38 PM   #61
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If you jack the car up on front (entire front), is it possible to wiggle the pssgr side to see if you can get it to start clacking? Maybe even get a jack on the LCA mounting point and raise that wheel a bit to see if you can hear where it is coming from?
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      04-22-2010, 02:54 PM   #62
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check to see if the open side of your new bolt bracket is facing the same direction as the drivers side. I could hear noises just from pushing the car down and letting it rebound. PMing you.
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      04-22-2010, 08:57 PM   #63
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2008 135i  [3.75]
slightly off topic....my m3 suspension parts shipped today!!!
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      04-22-2010, 09:33 PM   #64
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did you order m3 parts since driving andy's car on sunday??
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      04-22-2010, 09:40 PM   #65
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Yes, you could tell that was coming before he even got out from his first run in Andy's car...
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      04-22-2010, 10:10 PM   #66
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woah, it's that noticeable? is it the turn in response or the added camber or both?

once you do the front m3 parts, won't you just have to do the rear bushings too?
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