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      06-12-2018, 04:38 PM   #155
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I have a MFactory torque biasing diff.
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      07-16-2018, 03:24 PM   #156
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Well that's all she wrote for the year.

Last Saturday was the Canadian Tire Motorsports Park GP School/Lapping day. I attended the lapping day to prep for Sunday's Time Attack.

30FF and ensuing limp mode would come within 2 turns of hard driving. Turbos are officially dead and I will not be attempting anymore bandaids. It's either replacement OEMs /w upgraded WG flappers or a small single turbo (GTX 3076/3576). On the latter, this is a stretch as it is a huge jump in costs that I really wouldn't take the benefit of since our time attack classing is based on points. More power means more points and higher classing... I can't just YOLO and turn up the boost without 'consequence'. And really, 370whp should net me an extremely fast lap time around Canadian Tire Motorsports Park GP assuming I have everything else optimized (tires, springs, dampers, weight reduction, aero and my driving).

That being said, Saturday was the first time this year I was able to test the new widebody/tires/upgraded aero at CTMP GP. Some corners that still required me to brake (despite being down on power) showed significant improvements. Turn 2, for example, improved by 4 tenths (!!!) and turn 9/10 improved by 3 tenths. If the turbos didn't pack it in, I have absolutely no doubt a solid high 1:2X would've been achieved...this is Pirelli World Challenge M235iR territory. The caveat being the PWC M235iR does it with less aero and less power *cough* but more tire (slicks)...

Plans for next year include the following:
- Turbo replacement/upgrade
- Proper clutch type LSD in the rear
- Reinstall rear sway bar
- AiM Dash... This is a 'stretch goal' if you will...

Will post updates as they happen.
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      07-18-2018, 09:51 AM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xBlueStreakx View Post
Well that's all she wrote for the year.
Sorry we didn't get a chance to chat before you had to pack up. I expected to see you tear past me, so figured there was a mechanical issue when you didn't, but too bad it ends your season so soon.
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      07-18-2018, 11:43 AM   #158
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Originally Posted by fe1rx View Post
Sorry we didn't get a chance to chat before you had to pack up. I expected to see you tear past me, so figured there was a mechanical issue when you didn't, but too bad it ends your season so soon.
No worries, James. I seeked you out for a chat before I left but figured you were out instructing.
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      08-14-2018, 10:31 AM   #159
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Further to the disappointing day at Mosport GP track, attached is the data of my best lap.

Summary:
- Best lap last year was a 1:31.28.
- Best lap this year was a 1:32.97. A difference of 1.69 seconds slower than last year due to the 30FF issue.
- On the speed/distance graph, the white line is my best this year whereas the red line was my best last year.
- I added the vertical red lines with numbers corresponding to the apex of the corner in question.
- Exit speed/acceleration from all corners is markedly slower this year.
- Top speed before turn 8 was 205km/h this year vs 225km/h last year. With the stage 1 tune, top speed should've been closer to 240km/h.

You can see the car shaved a ton of time at turn 2, 9 and 10. This is due to the improved aero build and the wider tires. Unfortunately, I didn't put in enough laps to try and quantify what was attributable to aero vs. non-aero. A good indicator would've been turn 5 as it is a very slow corner... in the graph, it appears that minimum speed is the same as last year but it could've been due to a mistake for example.

Lots of other tidbits of information there but I need to get back to work!
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      09-26-2018, 09:06 AM   #160
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Early September, I decided to take another shot at addressing the 30FF issue. This time by removing everything I needed to get at the front WGA.

Before I embarked on this repair, I decided to order the VRSF OEM location inlets. Furthermore, I've had catless downpipes sitting in my garage since the start of the build and figured they'd go in as well.

What a royal PITA it was doing this job on jack stands... Getting at the front WGA required pulling the water pump (coolant shower, anyone?) in addition to downpipe removal, steering rack loosening etc. There was alot of swearing, here. Haha

Following some guides online, I shimmed the WGA brackets such that at -5.9inHg of vacuum on the WGA, the flappers were fully closed. Reassembly involved swapping in the VRSF inlets and the catless downpipes. As an aside, installing the rear inlet with the downpipes out of the way makes tightening the inlet to the turbo snout (almost) a breeze.

On Monday September 24th, I took the car to Toronto Motorsports Park (TMP) in Cayuga. Happy to report that we're back in business. The car pulled nice and strong and I managed to set a personal best of a 1:17.78. The data showed potential for a 16.x, however, I couldn't string together a clean lap in the one hot lap per session before the oil temps would send the car into limp mode. Onto the issues to address...

If you go back a few months, I decided to improve aero by removing the ER dual oil cooler setup in favour of a single setup behind the kidney grill. On a small/short track like TMP, the dual oil cooler setup is necessary as temps get out of control after one hot lap (plus one warm up). This winter, I'll be reverting back to the dual oil cooler setup. For a bigger track like Mosport (where over cooling is an "issue"), I'll modify the bumper covers to let in a fraction of the air a fully open setup would otherwise provide.

TL;DR. Car is back to being fast. Can get back to working on driver skill and setup.

Done for the season, though.
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      11-19-2018, 03:50 PM   #161
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Time to (slowly) prep for next year.

First thing is first. Suspension!

Up front, I run 6" Swift Springs (look at previous pages for rates) /w a Swift 60mm helper. Fully compressed, the helper adds 1.2" of ride height despite me bottoming out the spring collar to have the front sit as low as possible. At this height, the lower arms still show that I can lower the car an additional 3/4" without inverting arm angles.

Enter Hyperco helper springs. Presumably, they only add 0.25" to ride height and will allow me to work with the collars for fine tuning.

See picture below. Swift photo added as well.

Black Friday is also around the corner. If SPL has a sale, I may pick up their full front end kit which should allow me to play with ride height even further and still maintain proper arm/tie rod angles.
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      11-20-2018, 10:16 AM   #162
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If SPL has a black friday sale, nobody else in my family is getting any presents for Christmas.
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      11-26-2018, 06:30 PM   #163
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Out of curiosity - why run helpers at all in the front?

If your perch is as low as it can be and you have spacers that take up 1.25" of space when compressed, then you can just eliminate them and move the perch up 1.25" - no change in net ride height. No need for the cost, weight, or complexity of two springs.

Just food for thought.

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      11-27-2018, 10:27 AM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
Out of curiosity - why run helpers at all in the front?

If your perch is as low as it can be and you have spacers that take up 1.25" of space when compressed, then you can just eliminate them and move the perch up 1.25" - no change in net ride height. No need for the cost, weight, or complexity of two springs.

Just food for thought.

-Mark
I presume because it's almost certain a 6" spring will bind. Removing the spring helper would also change the struts operating range... distribution of travel would change to have less rebound and more compression travel. Not sure what the target goal is with the helpers though...
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      11-27-2018, 03:10 PM   #165
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Unfortunately without the helper, the 6" main spring is not captured at full suspension droop. At full droop, the helper provides juuuussssttt enough tension to keep the main/helper seated.
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      12-01-2018, 12:54 AM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
I presume because it's almost certain a 6" spring will bind. Removing the spring helper would also change the struts operating range... distribution of travel would change to have less rebound and more compression travel. Not sure what the target goal is with the helpers though...
What you are saying does not make sense. He has a 6" spring - if it does not bind with helper springs, it will not bind without helper springs - once the car is on the ground, the helper springs are irrelevant. The helper will add droop travel but makes no difference whatsoever to binding.

Also, you are not really using the terms rebound and compression correctly - rebound is not a type of travel, droop is; rebound is an adjustment that controls how droop travel behaves. Regardless, a shock does not care whether you have helpers or not, it behaves the same either way given the same range of motion. The only thing that affects the amount of bump to droop travel is ride height - whether it is accomplished by changing the main spring length, rate, adding or deleting a helper makes no difference.

-Mark
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      12-01-2018, 12:59 AM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xBlueStreakx View Post
Unfortunately without the helper, the 6" main spring is not captured at full suspension droop. At full droop, the helper provides juuuussssttt enough tension to keep the main/helper seated.
That's very surprising to me - the fact that your JRZs require a 6" spring plus a 60mm helper to take up all the droop travel implies they have more than 8" of total stroke, I am surprised they are not shorter to work more efficiently at lower ride heights.

For reference, my Ohlins have under 6" of total stroke - ie a 6" spring without helper is slightly preloaded. I am going to measure the droop this weekend to figure out if my 5" springs can work or if they will require a helper.

-Mark
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      12-03-2018, 09:55 AM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
What you are saying does not make sense. He has a 6" spring - if it does not bind with helper springs, it will not bind without helper springs - once the car is on the ground, the helper springs are irrelevant. The helper will add droop travel but makes no difference whatsoever to binding.
With a lowered spring perch, and a helper spring to keep the main spring taught, the strut will have less available travel upon bump. He will get into the bump stop sooner; therefore, the spring will never bind. That's one of the main reasons to use the helper spring and lower the spring perch (redistribute strut travel)... If he were to remove the helper spring, and move the spring perch up, he would have very little static compression. Almost his entire strut stroke would be available in bump (Over 3.5"). A Swift 65mm 6" spring at 610lb/in only has 2.8" of usable travel. It will begin to bind before he ever gets into the bump stop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
Also, you are not really using the terms rebound and compression correctly - rebound is not a type of travel, droop is; rebound is an adjustment that controls how droop travel behaves.
I am using the terms correctly for what I am referring to. The strut rebounds when the suspension is in a state of droop. There is more than one "correct" context in which the terms can be used. In fact, the "proper" term for mechanical limits of travel are REBOUND and JOUNCE. So not sure where you are getting your definitions from or the idea that a strut "droops" and doesn't "rebound." Never heard that before.

I agree with you though that the helper spring is not intended to add to the effective spring rate but it does by a marginal amount depending on how stiff it is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
Regardless, a shock does not care whether you have helpers or not, it behaves the same either way given the same range of motion.
I disagree with you on this from a "technically speaking" standpoint. Again, the helper spring DOES have a spring rate and DOES have a marginal impact on the strut. Keep in mind I am saying MARGINAL. I completely understand that a helper spring is there for no reason other than to keep the main spring taught in droop. But, it does have a rate of it's own...

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
The only thing that affects the amount of bump to droop travel is ride height - whether it is accomplished by changing the main spring length, rate, adding or deleting a helper makes no difference.
As stated above, the part you're missing is that lowering the lower spring perch also changes the bump/droop distribution. Dropping the lower spring perch results in less bump travel and more droop travel. It's called setting the spring for "sag" rather than "preload." The helper spring just takes up the sag to keep the spring seated. There are valid reasons for running sag.
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      12-03-2018, 09:56 AM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
That's very surprising to me - the fact that your JRZs require a 6" spring plus a 60mm helper to take up all the droop travel implies they have more than 8" of total stroke, I am surprised they are not shorter to work more efficiently at lower ride heights.

For reference, my Ohlins have under 6" of total stroke - ie a 6" spring without helper is slightly preloaded. I am going to measure the droop this weekend to figure out if my 5" springs can work or if they will require a helper.

-Mark
That's not how any of this works.

"ie a 6" spring without helper is slightly preloaded. " Do Ohlins not have adjustable spring perches? If you don't move your spring perch up when moving to the 5" spring you will be changing your ride height and bump/droop distribution and your spring will more than likely not have sag. What exactly is your goal of running a 5" spring?
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      12-04-2018, 11:45 AM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
That's very surprising to me - the fact that your JRZs require a 6" spring plus a 60mm helper to take up all the droop travel implies they have more than 8" of total stroke, I am surprised they are not shorter to work more efficiently at lower ride heights.

For reference, my Ohlins have under 6" of total stroke - ie a 6" spring without helper is slightly preloaded. I am going to measure the droop this weekend to figure out if my 5" springs can work or if they will require a helper.

-Mark
That's not how any of this works.

"ie a 6" spring without helper is slightly preloaded. " Do Ohlins not have adjustable spring perches? If you don't move your spring perch up when moving to the 5" spring you will be changing your ride height and bump/droop distribution and your spring will more than likely not have sag. What exactly is your goal of running a 5" spring?
Assuming he wants to avoid tire rub by running the spring perch higher on the shock. 5" front springs don't seem like a great idea, how wide of tires are you trying to run?

Still on #600ish front springs? That seems like such a high spring rate for this chassis even with aero.
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      12-05-2018, 11:42 AM   #171
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Anyway you could snap a pic of your belt routing?

Quote:
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AC delete in the engine bay was pretty easy actually. First, remove the serpentine belt by loosening the tensioner with a T60 bit (there are DIYs online for that) then loosen the hardlines around the compressor itself. The compressor can be found below the charge pipe area at the front of the engine. Trace back the hardlines to the driver side firewall and remove any bolts that secure them.

You need the following serpentine belt in lieu of the OEM setup (info courtesy of scottn2retro): https://www.amazon.ca/Gates-K070673-.../dp/B000CRBRQC

When running the serpentine belt, just route it the OEM way and skip the compressor area and you're good to go.


Right now, I only have the whiteline bushing inserts out back. The plan is to go with solid aluminum in the future, however, I don't think it will be happening this year. I'm having fuel starvation issues on sweeping right handers at 1/2 tank and below so I need to address that. Furthermore, I want to install the VAC Motorsports N54 oil pan baffle up front. That'll eat up the budget for the subframe bushings this year. I'm also 90% comfortable the way it is; the car is very very stable and fast so I'll put money elsewhere this winter. I'm thinking full spherical bearings out back, front splitter, wing and tying in the cage to the front suspension.

And here's a video of me coming down the straight at CTMP Mosport. Topped off at 220km/h.
https://youtu.be/5hnvq7y_qcA
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