Need help removing Idler pulley!!

bawpe · 10-13-2020, 08:34 AM

Last night I was replacing the tensioner and pulleys on my 135i... I got the tensioner and one of the pulleys off the car and replaced them, but the smallest idler pulley ended up getting stripped while trying to removing the T50 bolt holding it in place. Need help getting it off, any ideas?

Petro135 · 10-13-2020, 01:10 PM

I know its tight in there but did you try a screw extractor?

chairfacechippendale · 12-10-2020, 08:58 AM

That's rough. I've had some luck hammering a larger torx or allen bit into stripped fasteners, but you're going to need a lot more access than what's available with the radiator and other front end stuff installed.

If I were in your shoes I'd be taking all that off to gain as much access as I could in order to sneak a long extension with a larger bit through before trying anything else for fear of making it worse. Don't try turning it without a few hammer blows to the back of the extension to cut into the bolt a bit or it's just going to round out more.

If that also stripped out I'd cut slots (again, you're going to need access) in the face of that bolt and use a large flathead screwdriver to try to get it moving. After that, I'd go with a left hand drill bit, extractor, crossed fingers and some utterances to a deity of your choosing.

drwillb · 12-10-2020, 02:12 PM

Remove the radiator and kidney grills for access. That sucker is all chewed up.

Don't forget to buy the proper drive type when you put in the replacement. I forget if it's a torx or allen.

MightyMouseTech · 12-10-2020, 02:29 PM

Luckily that pulley is n the alternator. Can remove alternator and then really get at it. Will need the single use bolts for the alternator.

Mr Gasser · 12-13-2020, 02:26 PM

If it still works, just leave it.

Thunderguts · 12-14-2020, 03:39 PM

Option 1: use a right angle adapter and a screw extractor? Maybe a really good adapter could handle a high-torque load. If nothing else, buy a right angle drill. There should be enough clearance I would think.

Option 2: the plastic pulley will cut right off. Then you just need to cut through the races on the bearing and you can get right on the bolt with a good vice grip.

10-13-2020, 08:34 AM	#1
bawpe New Member 0 Rep 6 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW E82 N55 DCT Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Atlanta GA iTrader: (0)	Need help removing Idler pulley!! Last night I was replacing the tensioner and pulleys on my 135i... I got the tensioner and one of the pulleys off the car and replaced them, but the smallest idler pulley ended up getting stripped while trying to removing the T50 bolt holding it in place. Need help getting it off, any ideas? Attached Images
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10-13-2020, 01:10 PM	#2
Petro135 Captain 453 Rep 610 Posts Drives: 2008 135i E88 Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: South jersey iTrader: (0) Garage List 2008 BMW 135i [0.00]	I know its tight in there but did you try a screw extractor?
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12-10-2020, 08:58 AM	#3
chairfacechippendale Registered 9 Rep 4 Posts Drives: 2013 135i and a rusty e30 Join Date: Nov 2020 Location: NJ iTrader: (1)	That's rough. I've had some luck hammering a larger torx or allen bit into stripped fasteners, but you're going to need a lot more access than what's available with the radiator and other front end stuff installed. If I were in your shoes I'd be taking all that off to gain as much access as I could in order to sneak a long extension with a larger bit through before trying anything else for fear of making it worse. Don't try turning it without a few hammer blows to the back of the extension to cut into the bolt a bit or it's just going to round out more. If that also stripped out I'd cut slots (again, you're going to need access) in the face of that bolt and use a large flathead screwdriver to try to get it moving. After that, I'd go with a left hand drill bit, extractor, crossed fingers and some utterances to a deity of your choosing.
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12-10-2020, 02:12 PM	#4
drwillb BMW Fan 289 Rep 838 Posts Drives: e30 M3, e30 M3, e46 M3 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: northern NJ iTrader: (4)	Remove the radiator and kidney grills for access. That sucker is all chewed up. Don't forget to buy the proper drive type when you put in the replacement. I forget if it's a torx or allen. __________________ 2012 135i Mods: air scoops, CP, K&N filter, PS1, ADE FMIC, BMW PE, JB4, 1M front body, full M3 suspension front and rear, M3 brakes front and rear, M3 rear subframe and LSD Owned so far: 88 M3 x 2, 95 325is, 95 M3 x 2, 06 Mini Cooper S, 08 335 xi, 09 Z4 35i, 01 M3, 12 135i
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12-10-2020, 02:29 PM	#5
MightyMouseTech Major General 4338 Rep 6,196 Posts Drives: 13 135i 6MT LeMans Blue MSport Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Ottawa, Canada iTrader: (0)	Luckily that pulley is n the alternator. Can remove alternator and then really get at it. Will need the single use bolts for the alternator.
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12-13-2020, 02:26 PM	#6
Mr Gasser First Lieutenant 73 Rep 341 Posts Drives: 135i 09 M-Sport Black on Black Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Texas iTrader: (0)	If it still works, just leave it. __________________ Metallic Black on Black 2009 135i, new waterpump, OFHGs, and VC gasket...RB turbo PCV valve (ooo), NGK performance plugs...V3Cobb access port stage 2+FMIC, Injen intake, Mishimoto clone FMIC, ARM charge pipe, ARM downpipes, Whiteline subframe bushings
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12-14-2020, 03:39 PM	#7
Thunderguts Captain 776 Rep 992 Posts Drives: 2009 128i Sport MT Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: DFW iTrader: (0)	Option 1: use a right angle adapter and a screw extractor? Maybe a really good adapter could handle a high-torque load. If nothing else, buy a right angle drill. There should be enough clearance I would think. Option 2: the plastic pulley will cut right off. Then you just need to cut through the races on the bearing and you can get right on the bolt with a good vice grip. __________________ Official BMWP Whore - BMWP suspension kit w/ M3 arms, BMWP big brake kit, BMWP intake w/Mishimoto tube, BMWP exhaust, BMWP carbon strut brace, BMWP short shifter, and BMWP carbon spoiler. OZ Leggera HLT w/ 245 square setup.
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