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BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

View Poll Results: I own a...
2008 model and the waterpump failed. 157 15.30%
2008 model and the waterpump is ok. 171 16.67%
2009 model and the waterpump failed. 55 5.36%
2009 model and the waterpump is ok. 174 16.96%
2010 model and the waterpump failed. 8 0.78%
2010 model and the waterpump is ok. 76 7.41%
2011 model and the waterpump failed. 53 5.17%
2011 model and the waterpump is ok. 143 13.94%
2012 model and the waterpump failed. 34 3.31%
2012 model and the waterpump is ok. 81 7.89%
2013 model and the waterpump failed. 10 0.97%
2013 model and the waterpump is ok. 64 6.24%
Voters: 1026. You may not vote on this poll

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      05-08-2018, 04:38 PM   #507
1smokehouse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
What do you mean by surging? Can you make a video ?

Like its going from low to high speed ? That could be a bad temp sensor. ?


Dack
That's what I was also thinking. Yes, the speed is going from low to high then off is a space of 4-5 seconds with a pause and then it repeats. The fan speeds are higher when the a/c is on.

After driving for 20-30 minutes yesterday, the yellow overheating light came on, but the red light never came on. Turned it off and back on again and it went away. My commute to work is only 10 minutes, so I didn't get the warning light since the first day when I drove it home from the shop.
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// '13 SGM 135i M-Sport DCT PPK //
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      05-10-2018, 05:16 PM   #508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1smokehouse View Post
Still have one issue after picking up my car again, the cooling fan is surging, even after replacing the water pump and thermostat. No codes, no other issues. Any ideas?
Sounds like your new water pump could be bad. Just because the part is new, doesn't always mean it is a good part!

Or maybe the shop didn't bleed the cooling system properly. Can you read codes on your own? I would do that first. Often times the DME will throw a water pump code before the pump fails totally.

You could also bleed the cooling system by putting the key into the slot, hit the start button but don't start the car, just get the dash lights to come on. Then put your foot and HOLD it down on the gas pedal(without the engine running) to put the cooling system into the bleed down mode. This will run the water pump in cycles. Put the heat level on HIGH. This will bleed the cooling system after ten minutes.

Check your coolant expansion tank(only with a COLD engine) to also make sure you have enough coolant. Often times after a cooling system repair, the system will "burb" itself and be low.




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      05-11-2018, 06:24 PM   #509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Sounds like your new water pump could be bad. Just because the part is new, doesn't always mean it is a good part!

Or maybe the shop didn't bleed the cooling system properly. Can you read codes on your own? I would do that first. Often times the DME will throw a water pump code before the pump fails totally.

You could also bleed the cooling system by putting the key into the slot, hit the start button but don't start the car, just get the dash lights to come on. Then put your foot and HOLD it down on the gas pedal(without the engine running) to put the cooling system into the bleed down mode. This will run the water pump in cycles. Put the heat level on HIGH. This will bleed the cooling system after ten minutes.

Check your coolant expansion tank(only with a COLD engine) to also make sure you have enough coolant. Often times after a cooling system repair, the system will "burb" itself and be low.




Dackel
Thanks Dack, just dropped it off at the shop. Itís under warranty so if itís bad theyíll replace it. Hopefully thatís it....
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      05-13-2018, 06:16 PM   #510
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Water pump replaced and no issues now. Put me down for 2 failed water pumps back to back!
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      07-06-2018, 04:54 PM   #511
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2012 E88 msport with dct. just had mine replaced in May with 47,000 miles on it.
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      07-12-2018, 11:33 AM   #512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by five_timer View Post
Just hit 86K miles (2011), did a preventative water pump & thermostat replacement. My CPO warranty just expired, so any failure would now be on me. My nephew is a mechanic, he did it for $550 P+L.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HomoPirate View Post
He literally doesn't charge you for the labor.

The parts alone are $450+ and it's a 3 hours+ job for most mechanic.
Sorry for the late response, I just happened to notice this reply.

He told me $450 for the part, and $100 for his labor. But he was doing additional work that was part of the overall labor job. And I think he gets a kickback or volume discount on the part.
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